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09-25-2010, 12:45 PM
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#1
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Rivet Master  
2006 25' Safari FB SE
St. Cloud
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,280
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Flipping Reese cams
Wear on Reese's round cams is a certainty. After 5 years of use I noticed that the spring arm on one side was beginning to hang when I loosened the chain. This is hanging all by itself -- the chain is not engaged. The second picture is much closer and demonstrates he spring bar binding in the wear facets on the steel cam.
The last couple of days of a recent extended trip, the spring bar was making an audible bump as it was disengaging from the curbside cam when starting turns.
The roadside was only slightly better. The spring bars were in good shape.
Added together, one would have to assume that antisway function would be compromised. Time to do something about it. The cam arm is two-sided. I got out the big wrench with a plan to flip the cam arms while changing which side of the trailer they were on. Aiming to go from the next configuration to the following one.
First step is to measure a point on each cam up to a point on the hitch lock. You want to repeat the same cam position when you do the flip. So measure & write down the number for both sides...
Loosen the lower nut on the cam arm -- the one with the lock washer. You can't get to the upper nut too well with a wrench -- it takes a little of this and that. You'll manage. And the results give a brand new bearing surface and a few more years of adventure before having to make decisions on this unit.
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09-25-2010, 01:05 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanoeStream
Wear on Reese's round cams is a certainty. After 5 years of use I noticed that the spring arm on one side was beginning to hang when I loosened the chain. This is hanging all by itself -- the chain is not engaged. The second picture is much closer and demonstrates he spring bar binding in the wear facets on the steel cam.
Attachment 111607
Attachment 111608
The last couple of days of a recent extended trip, the spring bar was making an audible bump as it was disengaging from the curbside cam when starting turns.
Attachment 111609
The roadside was only slightly better. The spring bars were in good shape.
Attachment 111610
Added together, one would have to assume that antisway function would be compromised. Time to do something about it. The cam arm is two-sided. I got out the big wrench with a plan to flip the cam arms while changing which side of the trailer they were on. Aiming to go from the next configuration to the following one.
Attachment 111611
Attachment 111612
First step is to measure a point on each cam up to a point on the hitch lock. You want to repeat the same cam position when you do the flip. So measure & write down the number for both sides...
Attachment 111614
Loosen the lower nut on the cam arm -- the one with the lock washer. You can't get to the upper nut too well with a wrench -- it takes a little of this and that. You'll manage. And the results give a brand new bearing surface and a few more years of adventure before having to make decisions on this unit.
Attachment 111613
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Bob.
Replace the parts.
Then, use a little grease on each trip.
It's does make the cams last considerably longer.
Andy
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09-25-2010, 01:06 PM
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#3
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Rivet Master
1991 34' Excella
Princeton
, New Jersey
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,070
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I agree with your flipping the cams and intend to do just that as mine wear down. The only thing I would comment on is when setting the cams into the bars I do the following.
Loosen both nuts on the Straight Line cams and hook up to the trailer. Drive the rig on straight and level ground for at least 100 ft and stopping with the trailer brakes only, this straightens out everything. With the bars resting on the cams tap the cams from the bottom with a 2 pound hammer to make sure the cams are seated fully into the bars. Now check the WD hitch to make sure you still have weigh on the front axle of the truck. If the WD hitch is good tighten the inside nut by hand and then tighten the nut and lock washer. On the drivers side it helps if you holding down on the cam arm while tightening the nut as tightening tends to pull the cam upwards against the key cut and causes an offset on the surface of the cam to the arm.
The relationship of the cams setting completely down on the arms is critical. Any offset in this relationship will actually add to sway as the arm will be accelerating the direction of the sway as it snaps down on the cam from that offset.
Interesting comment by Andy. Reese had always said not to grease the older Duel Cam System. Since friction is the mechanical advantage these system use to dampen sway I was never quite sure if Reese's motivation was to sell additional parts or not. Reese did suggest Vaseline though rather than grease.
Never use either.
__________________
WBCCI 12156 AIR 3144 WACHUNG TAC NJ6
2004 Excursion 4x4
1991 34 ft. Excella +220,000 miles, new laminated flooring, new upholstery, new 3200 lbs axles
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09-25-2010, 02:21 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master
2006 25' Safari FB SE
St. Cloud
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,280
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Howie, good point on proper alignment.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HowieE
Reese did suggest Vaseline though rather than grease.
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Yep, vaseline has been recommended for squealing issues. Never felt that the occasional noise bothered me enough to do that. Grease? That would defeat the cam antisway action IMO.
Quote:
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0.025 cubic centimeters of GreasySkidStuff, 0.015 cc of lithium, or 0.00175 cc of polytetrafluoroethylene
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Where do we start? Where do we stop? Not going there...
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09-25-2010, 03:10 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanoeStream
Howie, good point on proper alignment.
Yep, vaseline has been recommended for squealing issues. Never felt that the occasional noise bothered me enough to do that. Grease? That would defeat the cam antisway action IMO.
Where do we start? Where do we stop? Not going there...
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Bob.
I said a "little" grease.
Doesn't defeat anymore than vasoline.
Andy
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09-25-2010, 06:20 PM
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#6
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Rivet Master
2006 25' Safari FB SE
St. Cloud
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,280
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09-25-2010, 11:10 PM
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#7
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Rivet Master
2005 25' Safari
Salem
, Oregon
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 8,276
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 Hi, so that is actually a Reese Quad Cam, since you have four Cam surfaces available; Next time you have to buy new parts. 
__________________
Bob 2005 Safari 25-B
"Le Petit Chateau Argent" Small Silver Castle
2000 Navigator / 2014 F-150 Eco-Boost / Equal-i-zer / P-3
YAMAHA 2400 / AIR #12144
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09-26-2010, 09:05 AM
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#8
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Vintage Kin
Fort Worth
, Texas
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 8,014
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Nicely done!
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09-26-2010, 10:31 AM
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#9
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Rivet Master
Vintage Kin Owner
Lin
, Ne
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,430
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS
Hi, so that is actually a Reese Quad Cam, since you have four Cam surfaces available; Next time you have to buy new parts. |
Just like tires, a wear item. He will get 10yrs of use by flipping, maybe.
The cam can be restored by welding and grinding round again. I noticed my cams getting worn away fast, im deciding what to do now. Im either going to just keep it round by welding, or applying hardsurfacing, I just cant get the cam surface as hard as the spring bar or it will be the one to wear. Its a matter of just getting the cam a little softer than the bar. I feel the cam is too soft, but it may need to be that way for the friction....hmmm?
It will dawn on me someday what to do. 
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