F150 BlueOx bars for 27FB International?

[englewoodfl]

Updating from 2023 23FBT to 2024 27FBT. Currently have 750 lb BlueOx SwayPro bars (2 dimples). We going to remove the 2 Interstate group 34 AGMs and replace with 2 LiTime brand 100 Amp so the so the hitch weight on the specs sheet of 850 lbs will decrease.


Will I need 1000lb bars?

[Daquenzer]

Originally Posted by englewoodfl

Updating from 2023 23FBT to 2024 27FBT. Currently have 750 lb BlueOx SwayPro bars (2 dimples). We going to remove the 2 Interstate group 34 AGMs and replace with 2 LiTime brand 100 Amp so the so the hitch weight on the specs sheet of 850 lbs will decrease.


Will I need 1000lb bars?

Yes. I have F150. When I got my 28’ the dealer gave me 1000lb bars with my Blue Ox. Otherwise you won’t be able to transfer enough weight on an F150. I also don’t know what year your F150 is, but one could also consider adding a Road Active Suspension System to firm up your rear end or you will get porpoising.

Remember your hitch weight will increase when you load the trailer to about 900 to 1000lbs.

https://activesuspension.com/?gad_so...MaAn2EEALw_wcB

Just my opinion. Others will probably tell you to get an F250. By the way I got rid of my Blue Ox and went to a Propride hitch. Tows far better. You will find with the 27’ you will get more bow affect when trucks drive by you. The Propride eliminated that for me.

[daleyocum]

You’ll likely find your true hitch weight loaded for travel with water in the tanks to be north of 1,000 pounds, it sure is with my FC25FB (1,100.). Airstream’s tongue weight numbers are notoriously far from reality.

As was mentioned above, you’ll get lots of advice to move up to a bigger truck. I resisted that for years but was always on the hairy edge with payload. My old F150 had 1,800lbs of payload capacity and with (excessive) Blue Ox weight distribution with 1,500lb (!) bars as was just barely able to get both axles under their weight rating. That was starting to cause early signs of front end separation, though, so now I have a F350 and just tow on the ball. Much better towing experience but not as good a daily driver.

If you must stay with a F150 (assuming your payload capacity is 1,800lbs or more) you will get less porpoising with the RAS active suspension system or airbags. You’ll also want to upgrade your shocks to Bilstein or some such. None of that takes the place of weight distribution but will deal with the porpoising. Some people are sensitive to that (like my wife) and some don’t mind.

[englewoodfl]

Right now we're going to stick with what we. I'll orcer the BXW4007 3 dimple bars.

[Kawboy01]

Our TV is a 2500HD with RAS and pull our 21GT27FBQ and use 1000 bars with our Husky Centerline hitch. It's been across the country 15+ times with no issues. As other have said check your load carry capacity and rear axle capacity, adding Trimblin, airbags or RAS does not increase carry capacity.

[jeffmc306]

englewoodfl, we also moved up from a FC23FB to a 27’ Globetrotter but already had the 1000 lbs. Blue Ox bars. We had a 1/2 ton truck but after weighing the trailer loaded found the actual tongue weight was 1100 lbs loaded for camping. Airstreams posted numbers do not reflect actual weight. When you get a trailer find a Sherline scale to get a real weight.

I bought a set of 1500 lbs. bars hoping to move more weight to the front wheels because the payload was low on the truck. While it did transfer more weight it did put more stress on the trailer. Jackson Center later fixed the front end separation and I went back to the 1000 lbs. bars.

We now have a RAM 2500 and I’ve reduced the tension on the bars, leaving 4 1/2 links showing. I’m less concerned with weight transfer than sway and no issues.

Good luck with your new trailer!

[Daquenzer]

Originally Posted by Kawboy01

Our TV is a 2500HD with RAS and pull our 21GT27FBQ and use 1000 bars with our Husky Centerline hitch. It's been across the country 15+ times with no issues. As other have said check your load carry capacity and rear axle capacity, adding Trimblin, airbags or RAS does not increase carry capacity.

The RAS doesn’t technically increase capacity, however it does increase stability by eliminating porpoising.

[Dick tracy]

The only way you will ever know for sure AND be confident in your setup is to weight your rig properly YOURSELF. Until you do, ALL of this is merely a theory.
PAYLOAD doesn't matter, that stat is merely to get you in the ballpark when deciding what to buy.
What matters is when fully loaded you are under your limits at each axle and overall weight and the trailer overall weight and the truck overall weight. 1/2 ton trucks will need help moving weight off the truck rear axle up to its front axle and back to the trailer with most AS. If you are over your truck rear axle limit you will have issues, if you are over your trucks overall weight you will have issues.
You won't know where the weight sits until you weigh your rig.
I do it like this and I know exactly what is going on with my rig.
I weigh each axle separately each time and then together.
Weigh the truck empty
Weigh the AS empty
Hook them up with the WDH weigh them together empty, bars not tensioned
Load them and weigh them separately
Load them, hook them up and weigh them, bars not tensioned
Load them, hook them up and weigh them, bars tensioned
And lastly I fill the fresh water and weigh it, bars tensioned

On my rig, I'm under limits always on the trailer, overall truck and overall rig. My wife and I travel relatively light even on 3-4 week trips. My truck axles need help to adjust the weight off the rear AND back onto the front axle and 1000lbs bars are just enough to do this without dimpling the front end of the FBT.
It takes effort with a 1/2 ton to know what it will handle, but you can be confident in your setup if you take the time to sort it all out and for me the 1/2 ton is the right choice and for many reasons.

[nelsonh]

Originally Posted by englewoodfl

Right now we're going to stick with what we. I'll orcer the BXW4007 3 dimple bars.

Holy coincidental timing, Batman!


I have the 3-dimple 1000 lb BlueOx bars (which came with the trailer we bought used) and I've felt I need to go down to 750, as my measured tongue weight when loaded is right at 600 lbs.


Any chance you'd be interested in trading bars??? (If you haven't already ordered new ones.....)

[Mollysdad]

This is a question I've struggled with. I have a Blue Ox with 1500# bars. My tongue weight on the Sherwood scale is 1125#, so the 1500# bars sound appropriate . However, here's the quandary, the hitch is in constant motion. Is it better to use lighter bars set up to the max or heavier bars set up light?
With the fear of FES, I'd rather use bars with more flex but set up tighter. Seems like that allows the trailer/ball joint to flex more.

[nelsonh]

Originally Posted by Mollysdad

This is a question I've struggled with. I have a Blue Ox with 1500# bars. My tongue weight on the Sherwood scale is 1125#, so the 1500# bars sound appropriate . However, here's the quandary, the hitch is in constant motion. Is it better to use lighter bars set up to the max or heavier bars set up light?
With the fear of FES, I'd rather use bars with more flex but set up tighter. Seems like that allows the trailer/ball joint to flex more.

Same quandary here. And/or, can one just go one chain link "looser" as another way to mitigate excessive stiffness? I have not done as much research on this as I need to before next camping season....

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by nelsonh

Same quandary here. And/or, can one just go one chain link "looser" as another way to mitigate excessive stiffness? I have not done as much research on this as I need to before next camping season....

The BO techs can advise you as they have me, several times over the years if you call them. With currant 28', when it was new, I was set up with 1000lb bars, but I knew my tongue weight was over that, and I was right. Ended up with 1500lb bars because they don't offer a 1200lb bar, but thats another story. Now, I too have removed my lead acid batteries which has reduced my tongue weight by 100lbs, so I could use the 1000lb bars. Blue Ox told me originally, I should set the chain links showing to where I felt comfortable while towing. 5.5 links as the dealer set up, was too loose and I found the front end felt light (F250 6.7L); AS was "porposing" while towing on the highway after picking up. I pulled over and went down to 4.5 links showing and that worked for 4 years; AS felt tight and could not even tell it was there. About a year ago, I noticed my spring bars showed a slight bend, so I tried to tighten one more link, and that's where I have been for 2 years now. 3.4 links showing. Working great at 3.5 links also.

[O-side Jimmy]

You're in a precarious situation. Your 27 had tongue closer to 1,000#s. I would still run the 750# bars to reduce your chance of Front End Separation. If you're towing with a 1/2-ton, add airbags.