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flmgrip · 08-09-2009, 04:39 PM

My dealer put on the equilzer for me and I'm not sure if he did it right...

Chevy 2500 silverado 4x4
09 25' international
1000lb bars

the difference on the nose of the car between hitched and not hitched is the nose raising about 5/8 of an inch...

Putting the WD bars on does not change that measurement...

Should I try to put more wheight on the front? Where do u get the washers or can I raise the mounting points on the trailer side?

Thanks!

subfan1 · 08-09-2009, 05:17 PM

5/8th of an inch is not bad. Is the trailer nose high? If it is then try to use the next hole down on the shank. Both units should be leveled. Take it to the scales and make sure you have at least 12 to 15% of the trailers weight on the front, of the trailer.
Good luck.

TankerIP · 08-09-2009, 05:18 PM

These are all good questions. I've recently learned of the possibility that improper setup might even damage, bend, or crack the frame of my 22'. So why should the dealer not accept responsibility for having all knowledge about proper rigging? Maybe the question is: why should you have a weight distribution in the first place? And then go from there to the next question and answer.

flmgrip · 08-09-2009, 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by subfan1

5/8th of an inch is not bad. Is the trailer nose high? If it is then try to use the next hole down on the shank. Both units should be leveled. Take it to the scales and make sure you have at least 12 to 15% of the trailers weight on the front, of the trailer.
Good luck.

my point is... WD bars on or off... the nose is the same height off the ground...

i will hit the scales when i have a chance but i want to try to get the setup close before i even go there

Minnie's Mate · 08-09-2009, 10:01 PM

Try lowering the L-brackets (I think that is the right direction) so that more weight is transfered to the steer axle of the tow vehicle. It sounds like you aren't transferring any weight to the steer axle. If that does the trick, then adjust the head unit for a permanent adjustment. You can get the washers at Lowe's or Home Depot or most any large hard ward store like Ace, etc. Just make sure they are Zinc do they won't crush. Know you know the depth of my knowledge, or lack thereof, about my Equal-l-zer hitch.

BTW, I always take my trailer to a local hitch/utility trailer dealer for fine tuning the hitch head because I don't have the tools to do it myself...plus, they know more about this brand than I do.

TBRich · 08-09-2009, 10:17 PM

Equal-i-zer has a great website and they are very much into customer support. The info there will help you and if that is not enough contact them...they want their product to be used properly and safely and will work with you to get your set up right...here's the site: Equal-i-zer® Hitch - Product Info

cclarkego · 08-10-2009, 12:12 AM

Robert,

Found you..Go back to Post 51.

C

ROBERTSUNRUS · 08-10-2009, 12:14 AM

Hi, you hitch head should be somewhere around 6 to 10 degrees downward and your spring arms should be level with the trailer's frame. You can raise the "L" brackets one hole to assist if necessary. Your tow vehicle should be lower front and rear when hitched correctly, but lower in the rear and same height on the front is acceptible. Higher in the front causes lighter steering and possible loss of control, not good.

dscluchfc · 08-10-2009, 12:21 AM

See if he will trade you for the 600 lb bars.
You are over hitched. your truck already has a stiff suspension, you need light weight bars as the suspension is already helping a lot.
check other threads on hitches and spring bars.

Minnie's Mate · 08-10-2009, 08:15 AM

The 1,000 LBS bars are a different size and the head unit is not compatible with the lighter bars so you would have to replace the entire hitch system. I have an F-250 and use the 1,000 bars and that was based on recommended by a local hitch shop that sells Equal-i-zer hitches. I have had great success with my Equal-I-Zer hitch. It probably just needs fine tuning. Also, try and get it weighed so you have accurate information on what to discuss with the manufacturer. I concur with TBRich on calling the manufacturer; they are very customer friendly.

flmgrip · 08-10-2009, 03:21 PM

thanks folks all great input!

i had to bring the trailer back to the dealer for some f..d up solar install so i told them to add a washer (mor angle down on hitch) and raise the brackest one notch at the trailer side...

i will remeasure when i pick it back up and see if there is an improvement or not.... the guy who put it on there originally was just angry and unhappy and just put on there without any tuning at all...

will keep you updated !

thanks

flmgrip · 08-21-2009, 05:30 PM

finally had a chance to go over a scale, mind you my thanks except propane were pretty much empty and it was a fairly lightly packed weekend trip...

front 4240
rear 4020
trailer 5280

total 13540

now i'm no expert and i know the numbers will change everytime when i go out depending on the load, but i sure seems the numbers are right. it sure rides smooth and without any problems...

any input ?

thanks!

HowieE · 08-21-2009, 06:04 PM

While the following comment were written to help Reese owners set up their hitch the general idea of WD Hitch remains the same.

The purpose of the WD Hitch is to move weight to the trailer axles and the front axle of the truck.

Set up the system again with these considerations.

Make sure you are on a level pavement for both TV and trailer combination.

Drive onto the pavement while towing the trailer straight for at least 75 ft.

Use the trailer brakes to stop the combination, this insure things are straight.

Disconnect the trailer.

Measure the height of both truck fenders right up through the center line of the wheels. It helps to put a piece of masking tape on the fender and marking the measurement point on the tape. Record the measurements.

Hitch up and measure the fender heights again. Both measurements should drop. Generally I look for a 60 40 ratio with the rear fender dropping more than the front fender. This will depend on spring ratios of the truck put the important consideration is you want to see a drop in the front fender height.

If adjustments are required either take up a chain link and remeasure or tilt the hitch head back and remeasure.

If things do not fall into place, and you would have to be very lucky for that to happen, make adjustments. This is not a 5 min. job so don't start this in the sun.

When done you want the trailer tongue slightly higher than the rear and weight on the front axle of the truck. This difference in the trailer height should not be more than a ½ in. if that on shorter trailers. The reason I mention the height of the trailer tongue as being higher is with the Airstream axles not being self equalizing you want to insure you are not reducing the tongue weight by having shifted weight to the rear of the trailer.

If after you have completed the set up and you find you have trailer sway you should consider getting a duel cam sway control system. If you do install a duel cam system the set up is much the same except that when finished you have to be sure the trailing arms are seated on the saddles while the combination is straight. This may require reentry onto the pavement and checking things again because misaligned cams will change the WD effects of the system.

If you are setting up and have the Dual Cam or Straight Line system I would suggest you loosen the U bolts that hold the Dual Cam to the tongue or loosen both nuts on the yokes of the Straight Line system. Have these nuts and U blots loose before you pull on the level work area. Leave them loose through out the set up and periodically tap the saddles or the yokes with a 2 lbs. hammer to make sure they are sitting directly over the cams.

flmgrip · 08-21-2009, 09:41 PM

with all respect... what has this copied text to do with anything talked about here... more than one person mentioned also that measuring the fender height will only get you that far...

Quote:

Originally Posted by HowieE

While the following comment were written to help Reese owners set up their hitch the general idea of WD Hitch remains the same.

The purpose of the WD Hitch is to move weight to the trailer axles and the front axle of the truck.

Set up the system again with these considerations.

Make sure you are on a level pavement for both TV and trailer combination.

Drive onto the pavement while towing the trailer straight for at least 75 ft.

Use the trailer brakes to stop the combination, this insure things are straight.

Disconnect the trailer.

Measure the height of both truck fenders right up through the center line of the wheels. It helps to put a piece of masking tape on the fender and marking the measurement point on the tape. Record the measurements.

Hitch up and measure the fender heights again. Both measurements should drop. Generally I look for a 60 40 ratio with the rear fender dropping more than the front fender. This will depend on spring ratios of the truck put the important consideration is you want to see a drop in the front fender height.

If adjustments are required either take up a chain link and remeasure or tilt the hitch head back and remeasure.

If things do not fall into place, and you would have to be very lucky for that to happen, make adjustments. This is not a 5 min. job so don't start this in the sun.

When done you want the trailer tongue slightly higher than the rear and weight on the front axle of the truck. This difference in the trailer height should not be more than a ½ in. if that on shorter trailers. The reason I mention the height of the trailer tongue as being higher is with the Airstream axles not being self equalizing you want to insure you are not reducing the tongue weight by having shifted weight to the rear of the trailer.

If after you have completed the set up and you find you have trailer sway you should consider getting a duel cam sway control system. If you do install a duel cam system the set up is much the same except that when finished you have to be sure the trailing arms are seated on the saddles while the combination is straight. This may require reentry onto the pavement and checking things again because misaligned cams will change the WD effects of the system.

If you are setting up and have the Dual Cam or Straight Line system I would suggest you loosen the U bolts that hold the Dual Cam to the tongue or loosen both nuts on the yokes of the Straight Line system. Have these nuts and U blots loose before you pull on the level work area. Leave them loose through out the set up and periodically tap the saddles or the yokes with a 2 lbs. hammer to make sure they are sitting directly over the cams.

Cracker · 08-23-2009, 08:02 AM

This has been discussed many times but, in general, I've found that very little weight can be restored to the front axle of my 3500 series TV without requiring excessive loading of the equalizer bars. Likewise, only relatively minor "unloading" of the front axle occurs - even in a "dead load" arrangement. Excessive "hitching" is hard on the trailer - whereas the TV could care less. That's why many of us with heavy-duty TVs have opted to use 600 lb bars and been very happy with the results. Do a search and you'll find a wealth of information about the subject - much of which is in conflict with the hitch manufacturers directions.

HowieE · 08-24-2009, 10:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flmgrip

with all respect... what has this copied text to do with anything talked about here... more than one person mentioned also that measuring the fender height will only get you that far...

From your original post it appeared your hitch was not set up correctly and I was just going some insight as to how to correct your problem.