Equalizer Hitches on ALL MY Tow Vehicles

[Ray Eklund]

I have towed a 23 foot Safari, a 25 foot International and a 27 foot International using Equalizer Hitches. I have had NO Sway. Every hitch suited me just perfectly.

2006 23 foot Safari:

The 2006 23 foot Safari was towed with a 2006 Tundra 4.7L 4x4 and next, a 2008 5.7L 4x4 Tundra as a Tow Vehicle. Used the Equalizer Hitch with the chain drop. Three dropped links for both.

The 2014 25 foot International:

The 2014 25 foot International was towed with a 2012 Tundra 5.7L 4x4. Had 750# bars. Then towed with a 2016 F350 4x4 Diesel with the 750# bars. When I sold the 2014, the hitch and bars went to the new owner. Went to 16 inch Michelins and Sendel Wheels on the 25 footer shortly after purchase.

The 2019 27 foot International Rear Bed:

The 2019 27 foot rear bed International is being towed with the Ford F350 4x4 Diesel. I use 1000# bars on the 27 foot Airstream. I had 3 inch lift installed by the Airstream Dealer. I added 16 inch Michelins and Sendel Wheels just after purchase.

I tow ALL of my trailers on paved and unpaved roads. Yes I have had popped rivets on ALL three Airstreams. The 23 foot had the 'mouse fur' so never saw a popped rivet, but probably did.

I had popped rivets when ON paved Roads, as well as the unpaved. Often on the curves on the door side. I have had hinges come loose on all three Airstreams. That is another story of some doors should not be using the standard hinges. I converted those to 'piano hinges' and never had another issue.

If you are concerned about Popped Rivets... get an Oliver. It is fiber glass. When you enter a Service Station and your Airstream ROCKS on uneven curb or entrance... popped rivets are coming to your doorstep. Really.... Nothing to do with stiffer or flimsy tires. Rocking Popping Rivets... you will discover, sooner than later.

YOUR Airstreams will have popped rivets. If you do not USE your Airstream... you will NOT have popped rivets. Simple as that. I replace them with Lathe 1/2 and 3/4 inch Lathe Screws. They hold on the curves. They work to make the hardware stay attached, as well. Some say that is... naughty. Just do not buy my used trailer as I will point them out to you. They hold where the rivet did not. Problem solved.

I have had NO PROBLEMS with any of my Equalizer Hitches. If I did... I would not buy another. Like Goodyear Marathon Tires... suck. I never would run Goodyear tires after the 23 foot Marathons. I sell the Endurance Goodyears as soon as I get the NEW Trailer home and go to 16 inch Michelins and Sendel Wheels. Work out perfectly. Anywhere, all highways speeds and on unpaved roads.

Tires, lift kit and tow vehicles change your Hitch Settings. Yep... they will. Loaded is not the same as an Empty Tow Vehicle and Airstream for a hitch setup. Yep... true.

I grease my Equalizer friction areas. You may not and live with the squealing bars...

I could probably tow without the Bars with the F350 4x4... but these Bars work. Yep... I have photographs to show they all look just as nice as new.

If your Tow Vehicle is too light, not enough engine, suspension... it is not the Equalizer's fault. It is yours. Vehicle and length of Airstream are #1 issues to solve FIRST. Then figure out the rest of the hardware.

It all Depends on your Tow Vehicle and Trailer combination for the 750# or 1000# bars. Shanks from 2.5 inches (Fit the Tundra) to 3.0 inches (fits my F350).

I really do not care if you will not use Equalizer Hitches. I have for 15 years. Get a new hitch with each new trailer. Easy to set up, but not all dealers know what they are doing.

SET UP THE EQUALIZER WITH THE TOW VEHICLE AND AIRSTREAM.... Loaded. Not empty. The dealer sets it up EMPTY. Not always a good idea if you add stuff to go camping.

I could go on. I work on my Airstreams myself. I adjust the hitch myself. All trial and error. Even when NOT set up correctly... you will figure it out. It is not an issue but I like to tow Level at first, but beware... level towing is great. Maybe just a bit of down with the trailer nose... but never UP.

*******
Please ask questions and add your experience to help others. I was a total ignorant Airstream owner... a Newbie, but worse. An Airstream Princess. It was not easy to figure this stuff out. I like Simple. I like things that Work. I do not care for systems that are almost dragging while towing. Some of these systems look like a Neanderthal designed it. I should know.

I need clearance. I need to tow level. I want no sway. I WANT IT ALL. Takes time, but you will figure it out. An undersized tow vehicle is exactly that... too small for a heavy and longer Airstream. Common sense tells you that? A PhD Degree is only as good as the picture frame, when working with Trailers and Towing. OK?

Tow Vehicles make a difference. The 2006 blue Toyota 4.7L was marginal with the 23 foot. The 2008 and 2012 5.7L Tundras were border line with the 25 foot, but excellent for a 23 foot with weight to spare.

The F350 Ford 4x4 Diesel.... Ooooooh Weeeee. 1000# bars, 3 inch lift, 26 inch Michelins. Popped rivets... You BETCHA. But I fix those that pop, which right now... five... add a Lathe Screw. Now cabinet hardware tuneups this coming week. I found the weak spots and getting them upgraded with a tool box, hardware and common sense. I may look like a Neanderthal... but my wife sees me as handy and handsome. One happy couple.

[jondrew55]

Getting my 21 Globetrotter next week. Instead of towing it, I’ll photoshop in all the places we want to go. Maybe keep it in a museum.

[wulfraat]

Towed 2 airstreams over 10 year period / 30k+ miles with a very well calibrated equalizer setup. It was a fine hitch. A little harsh on the trailer but never had any sway issues.

Have since moved to propride. Took a little while to adjust. Prefer that setup now based on improved stability and because sway control / elimination is independent of weight distribution. Plus it has tapered spring bars which is less harsh in the trailer ride. Have not popped any rivets since making the change but I don’t venture on too many BLM roads….

But equalizer works just fine. Pros and cons to all of these configurations. Key is to have things dialed in correctly regardless of the hitch you deploy.

PS - goodyear endurance are excellent trailer tires by all means. It’s unfortunate that marathons (they were indeed total crap) put you off the brand permanently. Goodyear made good with a completely new, dependable trailer tire with the endurance. I changed to 16” Michelin’s as well before endurance became available. Now I run 15” endurance. Keep your options and mind open [emoji4]

[Ray Eklund]

I am sure that there are hitches better for shorter and longer Airstreams.

My Equalizers worked perfectly on the 23, 25 and current 27. This is my experience in lengths and hitches.

I see complicated systems. Not for me. Dial IN. I figure the rocking back and forth puts stress on the Interior Rivets. Not my tires. Not my Hitch.

My concern is not pop rivets. It is safety ON and OFF the road. I provide photographs. I do no sell this stuff. Goodyear would not honor the 14 inch tire problems. Went to Maxi's and other 14's. They would wear out. Not blow out. It was always MY Fault.

Now with Michelins... must not be MY Fault any longer. These tires I will buy. When a product works... I am a loyal customer. When they do not... I am not bashful and let them hear from me. I am a Neanderthal.

[wulfraat]

Yes, both equalizer and Michelin are good, reliable products. The equalizer is good in its simplicity, agree there as well.

I did one have a weld that cracked on the head of my equalizer. They replaced it no questions asked.

[Ray Eklund]

Originally Posted by jondrew55

Getting my 21 Globetrotter next week. Instead of towing it, I’ll photoshop in all the places we want to go. Maybe keep it in a museum.

*****
Take lots of photographs. Photos last. Memories get a bit... fuzzy.

Digital cameras can be simple and if you do not like the photograph... delete. If you find a photo is meant to be hung on a wall... a digital photo can be put on canvas. We did that on line with Costco with some photos.

[Ray Eklund]

Originally Posted by wulfraat

Yes, both equalizer and Michelin are good, reliable products. The equalizer is good in its simplicity, agree there as well.

I did one have a weld that cracked on the head of my equalizer. They replaced it no questions asked.

*****

I have have read that on the Forum. When Off the Grid, I can remove the Bars, as I do not need them for SWAY at 5mph. This is how to crack the swivel... not from casual traveling on the Interstate.

I saw a hitch on a 23 foot being towed by a Tundra. The 'rods for adjustment' had to be five inches from the pavement. Not sure what kind it was, but looked like a certain dragging the hitch issue.

Each of us like what we are familiar. My 27 foot is a Front Bed. A 28 is a Rear Bed. Had the bed in the wrong place on the first post. We wanted a 25 foot, none on the lot in 2019. Lots of 27's to 30's to move off the lot for the 2020's. Good timing for us.

After the third Airstream... similar cabinet hinge issues in ALL. Fixing that today. Have piano hinges for the round doors under the sink. The top hinge screws always coming out. Not after this fix. Not the Hitch. The vibration from traveling. Had same issues with the 23 foot with C Rated Marathons, not much tread when new... and hinge problems right away. Not the hitch problem.

[TedandPam]

We have a 2018 F350 4X4 Diesel, 750 lb bars, equalizer hitch, 20 year old 30 ft Classic Airstream. Goodyear Endurance Tires. We love the setup. Towed on Mexican roads during 3 Gems 2020 Caravan. Only one popped rivet.

[pteck]

Originally Posted by TedandPam

We have a 2018 F350 4X4 Diesel, 750 lb bars, equalizer hitch, 20 year old 30 ft Classic Airstream. Goodyear Endurance Tires. We love the setup. Towed on Mexican roads during 3 Gems 2020 Caravan. Only one popped rivet.

Wow, someone that actually properly sized their WD bars for the task! Nicely done. It seems to be that most with a big heavy TV reaches for the biggest heaviest WD bar they can find.

[Revery]

Have used Equalizer on both 23 and now 28 AS and like it. Easy to use and no sway at highway speed (i typically tow at 67-68 mph) No sway with 18-wheeler rolling by at 75-80 mph. As for tires got rid of Marathons when I noticed some signs of separation. Lesson learned, but I always check tires at every fueling stop. Went with Endurance and I like those with a load capacity of 2830 per tire and no need to get new wheels. Obviously, you want to make safe choices, and one of the most important is the TV. Get more than you think you need because you will need it. With 23' TV was Infinity QX5 SUV, ok for short trips, and has 9000 lb tow capacity. With 28" search for a better TV and found 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 with Cummings 5.9. Tows at 68-69 MPH and gets 17 MPG running at 1800 RPM. Extremely stable and efficient. Easily handles any highway situation.

[cptdzl]

Originally Posted by Ray Eklund

I have had NO PROBLEMS with any of my Equalizer Hitches. If I did... I would not buy another. Like Goodyear Marathon Tires... suck. I never would run Goodyear tires after the 23 foot Marathons. I sell the Endurance Goodyears as soon as I get the NEW Trailer home and go to 16 inch Michelins and Sendel Wheels. Work out perfectly. Anywhere, all highways speeds and on unpaved roads.

Tires, lift kit and tow vehicles change your Hitch Settings. Yep... they will. Loaded is not the same as an Empty Tow Vehicle and Airstream for a hitch setup. Yep... true.

I grease my Equalizer friction areas. You may not and live with the squealing bars...

Same here

I really do not care if you will not use Equalizer Hitches. I have for 15 years. Get a new hitch with each new trailer. Easy to set up, but not all dealers know what they are doing.

SET UP THE EQUALIZER WITH THE TOW VEHICLE AND AIRSTREAM.... Loaded. Not empty. The dealer sets it up EMPTY. Not always a good idea if you add stuff to go camping.

I could go on. I work on my Airstreams myself. I adjust the hitch myself. All trial and error. Even when NOT set up correctly... you will figure it out. It is not an issue but I like to tow Level at first, but beware... level towing is great. Maybe just a bit of down with the trailer nose... but never UP.

*******
Please ask questions and add your experience to help others. I was a total ignorant Airstream owner... a Newbie, but worse. An Airstream Princess. It was not easy to figure this stuff out. I like Simple. I like things that Work. I do not care for systems that are almost dragging while towing. Some of these systems look like a Neanderthal designed it. I should know.

I need clearance. I need to tow level. I want no sway. I WANT IT ALL. Takes time, but you will figure it out. An undersized tow vehicle is exactly that... too small for a heavy and longer Airstream. Common sense tells you that? A PhD Degree is only as good as the picture frame, when working with Trailers and Towing. OK?

Tow Vehicles make a difference. The 2006 blue Toyota 4.7L was marginal with the 23 foot. The 2008 and 2012 5.7L Tundras were border line with the 25 foot, but excellent for a 23 foot with weight to spare.

The F350 Ford 4x4 Diesel.... Ooooooh Weeeee. 1000# bars, 3 inch lift, 26 inch Michelins. Popped rivets... You BETCHA. But I fix those that pop, which right now... five... add a Lathe Screw. Now cabinet hardware tuneups this coming week. I found the weak spots and getting them upgraded with a tool box, hardware and common sense. I may look like a Neanderthal... but my wife sees me as handy and handsome. One happy couple.

If you could share how much adding washers affects the weight transfer of the Equalizer hitch. I just upsized from a 1500 to a 2500 and I am in the tuning stages. Got my new 2.5 shank and made my 3 scale weighs and am wondering if I should fuss/adjust some more. Currently only increased front axle weight a 100lbs and truck is with in 1/8-1/4 level. Thanks

OH and thanks for the tip on the lathe screws.

[jondrew55]

I already forgot what we were talking about

Originally Posted by Ray Eklund

*****
Take lots of photographs. Photos last. Memories get a bit... fuzzy.

Digital cameras can be simple and if you do not like the photograph... delete. If you find a photo is meant to be hung on a wall... a digital photo can be put on canvas. We did that on line with Costco with some photos.

[Bcc75]

I agree with Ray on the Equalizer. I towed our 25’ International RB with an F-150, and now an F250 Diesel. Same equalizer on both. No sway with either truck. The hitch is easy to set up, easy to connect/disconnect and affordable. I clean and grease mine after every trip. Store it in the garage when not towing. No reason why it shouldn’t last a long time for me.

[RosenBob]

Ray - I love your posts. I just read this after I towed our FC 30 RB from The Dalles OR, to Snohomish WA. Found our first popped rivet when we stopped. Was very glad to read your comments about popped rivets. I will try the Lathe screws. I put the 16” Michelins you recommend on the trailer before we headed out this summer. Looking forward to many miles with them.
Your comments are very helpful to us newbies!

Safe travels,
Bob

[Ray Eklund]

Originally Posted by jondrew55

I already forgot what we were talking about

****
Jon... you should avoid MY Posts and Threads. I try to cover EVERYTHING which most do not attempt when explaining WHY I do anything... correctly. The more experience someone may have... the more information learned by trial, error and taking bad advice from others.

Sorry you do not like my approach. It works for me.

[Ray Eklund]

My Equalizer... was reduced from FIVE washers to FOUR a year or so ago... I counted them yesterday to make sure. I was probably between four and five. When locking in the ball into the trailer, we have to raise the trailer with the power jack just a bit to get everything to... click. And secure... The wear on the Ball is consistent on the Ball replaced yesterday. I keep the old one to compare wear on the replaced ball. Just something I do...

cptdzl... I will take some photographs on my Equalizer and Sliders on the Airstream to give you a better idea. This may give you some idea.

Anyone who looks at their Airstream may notice that the double axles carry the weight. The designers put some time into this and fully loaded... makes the trailer stable. Once you put too much up front or in the back of the trailer... you are messing around with this balancing act. If anyone floated down the Colorado River from Moab, Utah and then had to decide paying for the small aircraft to get back to Moab, or take the school bus pulling the Raft and Equipment... we opted the small Aircraft. When loading the plane... took two... the pilots picked the... passengers. One guy must have weighed 300 pounds from another group. Counted as two people. Whew... was worried there a bit, but he flew on the other aircraft.

[Bill_H80]

Currently researching WD hitches and leaning heavily towards Equalizer … however, I have a 3” receiver tube and am not really keen on bushing down to fit a 2” or 2.5” shank. For those who may have a 3” tube … who’s WD shank did you go with?

I know I’ve seen in other threads were at least one person was running a GenY + Equalizer setup, and that looks interesting to me but always open for other suggestions.

[Ray Eklund]

Post #1: Correction.
F350 has a 2 1/2 inch shank (some have 3 inch shanks for theirs, not mine)
Tundra has a 2 inch shank

Measure your Hitch opening for the Shank size you need.
Length is ALSO IMPORTANT. Shank lengths can vary.

I have a 14 inch long shank on my Equalizer used on the F350. If I make a tight turn, the tail lights of the truck do not contact the Rock Guards on the Airstream.

My 2006, 2008 and 2012 Tundra used a 2 inch shank and probably a 12 inch shank, which may have been the length that the tail light on the 2008 Tundra made contact with the Rock Guard. It dented the top and dented the aluminum skin behind it. The tail light was not damaged at all. This was the SAME shank towing with the 2006, smaller Toyota pickup did not have that issue.

Different vehicles require some changes that you may not think of... in advance... even an extra bulge in a tail light.

Tail lights change dimensions with model changes, like the 2008 to 2012 Tundras. I discovered at that time, how the Shank length can make a big difference. This is not posted on the Forum as far as I know. Now you know.

There may be advantages with a shorter shank or longer shank. I am using the 14 inch, 2 1/2 inch Equalizer Shank on my F350. OK. Now I have corrected by initial error.

So again. My F350 has the 2 1/2 inch Equalizer Shank. The Hitch Sleeve on the F350 is just a 'bit larger' than 2 1/2 inches. You will hear a 'clunk' or feel it when stopping and moving. The 2008 and 2012 Tundras I do not recall any problem with the clunk with the tight fit.

I cut some sheet metal to reduce the slop. I scanned it after two years of use. I have been trying to find a piece of sheet metal steel that is a bit thicker to reduce this slop. This is what happened to this 'shim'. It expanded from 1 3/4 inches to 2 1/8 inches from the shank and sleeve contact over and over.

[Ray Eklund]

Originally Posted by Bill_H80

Currently researching WD hitches and leaning heavily towards Equalizer … however, I have a 3” receiver tube and am not really keen on bushing down to fit a 2” or 2.5” shank. For those who may have a 3” tube … who’s WD shank did you go with?

I know I’ve seen in other threads were at least one person was running a GenY + Equalizer setup, and that looks interesting to me but always open for other suggestions.

*******

Equalizer shows a 2 or 2 1/2 inch shank for sleeve sizes. You might want to check on the options. Everything else is the same when you remove the 2 inch shank with a larger shank. The bolted area is the same, where the shank is bolted to the rest of the Equalize Hitch assembly. My 2 1/2 inch shank slides right in and bolted in just fine.

When you pick up the Equalizer with a 2 1/2 inch shank... you had better worked out the day before! These are solid. A 2 1/2 inch... wear a Wyoming Cowboy hat. A 3 inch... boots with spurs.

My F350 with the 2 1/2 inch sleeve came with a sleeve that fits onto a 2 inch shank to fit the sleeve. It is a hammer and anvil... those two together. I immediately bought the 2 1/2 inch shank, which still fits sloppy, but solid. I suspect that Ford had people complaining about their Shank rusting in the Sleeve and wanted a new hitch installed. Who knows, but the Ford sleeve is not very snug.

I recall my Tundras fitting very well. Someone with a Tundra might comment.

Someone may have a brochure of Equalizer Hitch assembly options... to scan and add. I looked at the EqualizerHitch.com site to calculate shank size. It may say something about LENGTHs as well.

[Bill_H80]

Worst case if I can’t find a shank sized for a 3” receiver I’ll get a 2.5” and look to have a local fab shop weld on an adapter so I don’t have to deal with it banging around on me. (As a note, I’ve heard of GenY doing this for people for an added $50, not a bad deal).

Originally Posted by Ray Eklund

*******

Equalizer shows a 2 or 2 1/2 inch shank for sleeve sizes. You might want to check on the options. Everything else is the same when you remove the 2 inch shank with a larger shank. The bolted area is the same, where the shank is bolted to the rest of the Equalize Hitch assembly. My 2 1/2 inch shank slides right in and bolted in just fine.

When you pick up the Equalizer with a 2 1/2 inch shank... you had better worked out the day before! These are solid. A 2 1/2 inch... wear a Wyoming Cowboy hat. A 3 inch... boots with spurs.

My F350 with the 2 1/2 inch sleeve came with a sleeve that fits onto a 2 inch shank to fit the sleeve. It is a hammer and anvil... those two together. I immediately bought the 2 1/2 inch shank, which still fits sloppy, but solid. I suspect that Ford had people complaining about their Shank rusting in the Sleeve and wanted a new hitch installed. Who knows, but the Ford sleeve is not very snug.

I recall my Tundras fitting very well. Someone with a Tundra might comment.

Someone may have a brochure of Equalizer Hitch assembly options... to scan and add. I looked at the EqualizerHitch.com site to calculate shank size. It may say something about LENGTHs as well.