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Old 11-07-2017, 03:12 AM   #1081
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I'll give that a try.
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Old 11-16-2017, 08:26 PM   #1082
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Do you think I need to transfer more weight to the front axle? Truck and trailer near perfectly level. Maybe add one more washer.

Equalizer hitch with 5 washers.


Truck only
Steer axle 5000
Drive axle 3680

WDH not engaged bars in bed of truck
Steer axle 4560
Drive axle 5120
Trailer axle 7900

WDH engaged
Steer axle 4720
Drive axle 4920
Trailer axle 7960
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Old 11-17-2017, 04:35 AM   #1083
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ksteve06 View Post
Do you think I need to transfer more weight to the front axle? Truck and trailer near perfectly level. Maybe add one more washer.

Equalizer hitch with 5 washers.


Truck only
Steer axle 5000
Drive axle 3680

WDH not engaged bars in bed of truck
Steer axle 4560
Drive axle 5120
Trailer axle 7900

WDH engaged
Steer axle 4720
Drive axle 4920
Trailer axle 7960


My truck weighs 5,100 pounds..... I think that in every instance above your truck has enough weight on the front axle.
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Old 11-18-2017, 06:45 AM   #1084
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Your rear axle may not have enough weight. The weight on the rear axle holds the tires in firm contact with the road to counteract any force coming from the trailer on an emergency stop or maneuver. Too little weight and the rear can break free of the road, and the trailer will jackknife.

The old guidance when setting up the hitch was to get equal squat on the trucks front and rear axles. This could lead to not enough weight on the rear. The new guidance says to bring the front squat, half-way back to where it was before the trailer tongue weight was applied.

Before this past summer travels, I reset my hitch using this guidance. I ended up with the front of the truck slightly higher (less than an inch) than unweighted, and the Airstream running almost level (1/4 inch down in front). On the scales, we were almost at the GAWR on the rear axle, but below the GAWR on the front and trailer axles. Both truck and Airstream were below their GVWR and the combination was well below the GCWR.

8,000 miles of safe, no worries, towing.

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Old 11-29-2017, 06:55 PM   #1085
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Switching Trucks

Hi....I am moving from a Toyota Tundra to a Ford F-250. My AS is a 27' Flying Cloud FB. The trailer is in storage, so I am unable to get there to measure the hitch height.

I believe the F-250 receiver is higher than the Tundra. I put the Equalizer hitch into the receiver and the top of the ball is about 25" above the ground. My issue is that it looks like the hitch is set on the lowest setting, so how would I lower it? If I need to get something else, can you point me in the right direction? What height should the ball be?
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Old 11-29-2017, 07:59 PM   #1086
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billrector View Post
Hi....I am moving from a Toyota Tundra to a Ford F-250. My AS is a 27' Flying Cloud FB. The trailer is in storage, so I am unable to get there to measure the hitch height.



I believe the F-250 receiver is higher than the Tundra. I put the Equalizer hitch into the receiver and the top of the ball is about 25" above the ground. My issue is that it looks like the hitch is set on the lowest setting, so how would I lower it? If I need to get something else, can you point me in the right direction? What height should the ball be?


I have a F350 and got the shank model # 90-02-4300
Shank 2" shank, 12" long, 6" drop, 10" rise
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Old 11-29-2017, 08:10 PM   #1087
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You need to buy a hitch shank with more drop, the ball height for your flying cloud should be around 18 inches. Equalizer or etrailer should be able to help you select the right shank.--Frank
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Old 11-30-2017, 04:39 PM   #1088
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ksteve06 View Post
I have a F350 and got the shank model # 90-02-4300
Shank 2" shank, 12" long, 6" drop, 10" rise
Do you know how high your receiver is on your truck? Equalizer had me measure to the top of the inside edge and I got 24" for my F-250. Based on an 18" AS height, Equalizer said I need a 90-02-4400 shank which is the longest they make. He said I'd still be 1" high at the truck?? He said the 90-02-4300 would leave me 4" high. Maybe the 4300 is safer but I know the truck will drop some when I have the trailer hooked up and the bed loaded with the wife's stuff

Confused!!!!
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Old 11-30-2017, 04:59 PM   #1089
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Iím not sure but I know that with the airstream level the height of coupler on our airstream was higher than what the book said. We have a 30ft Classic.Here is a picture of the truck and airstream with the 6Ē drop shank installed. [ATTACH]
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Old 11-30-2017, 06:42 PM   #1090
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ksteve06 View Post
Iím not sure but I know that with the airstream level the height of coupler on our airstream was higher than what the book said. We have a 30ft Classic.Here is a picture of the truck and airstream with the 6Ē drop shank installed. [ATTACH]
Thanks for your help, this is all very confusing.

To add to the confusion, Equalizer has a "Shank Size" calculator on their website. I entered a ball height of 3", receiver height of 24" (stock F-250), and hitch height of 18" (based on airstream literature). The site comes back and tells me that they don't have a shank that will work for this setup. WHAT???

Am I the only person using an Equalizer hitch on stock F-250 with a Flying Cloud Airstream??

Bill
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Old 12-01-2017, 12:48 PM   #1091
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I have a stock 2017 F250 and the receiver height is 24". My trailer should be the same as yours, a 2014 27FB International Serenity.

The EQ 4" drop shank was an inch or so too high on the lowest setting. I calculated the 6" drop would be about 3/4" too low. Until you actually set up a new shank and measure your trailer you will not know for sure.

I use an 18" long shank and EQ does not make a six inch drop in the 18" length. So I opted for this shank: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The mounting holes on the Curt shank are 5/8" off of the EQ shank and that met my height problem right in the middle. My EQ head bottom bolt is mounted in the third hole from the bottom of the Curt shank.

You can see the measurements of the Curt shank on E-Trailer here:
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...rt/C17122.html

Please be advised the diagram on E-Trailer shows the drop part of the shank as being 10" long, that is incorrect, the holes measure 10" apart, the actual length of the drop part is 12", also notice the Curt is rated for 1500 pounds.

An 18" shank allows my tailgate to open with out hitting the trailer jack and allows for a little tighter turning radius.

Again, until your actually set up a new shank their is now way to tell for sure.

Good luck.
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Old 12-05-2017, 07:17 AM   #1092
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NO NOIZE View Post
I have a stock 2017 F250 and the receiver height is 24". My trailer should be the same as yours, a 2014 27FB International Serenity.

The EQ 4" drop shank was an inch or so too high on the lowest setting. I calculated the 6" drop would be about 3/4" too low. Until you actually set up a new shank and measure your trailer you will not know for sure.

I use an 18" long shank and EQ does not make a six inch drop in the 18" length. So I opted for this shank: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The mounting holes on the Curt shank are 5/8" off of the EQ shank and that met my height problem right in the middle. My EQ head bottom bolt is mounted in the third hole from the bottom of the Curt shank.

You can see the measurements of the Curt shank on E-Trailer here:
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...rt/C17122.html

Please be advised the diagram on E-Trailer shows the drop part of the shank as being 10" long, that is incorrect, the holes measure 10" apart, the actual length of the drop part is 12", also notice the Curt is rated for 1500 pounds.

An 18" shank allows my tailgate to open with out hitting the trailer jack and allows for a little tighter turning radius.

Again, until your actually set up a new shank their is now way to tell for sure.

Good luck.
Thanks for sending this. I already ordered the one that Equalizer recommended but I never thought about being able to lower the tailgate?? Now we're talking!! I like that idea. Ordering!
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Old 12-05-2017, 09:14 AM   #1093
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E-trailer's web site has very good videos in the "shank" section. They take each shank and put a tape measure on it so you can see what a 12" shank really measures. It seems there is no standard between manufacturers.
My shank is the standard Equalizer (I think) and is about 9" between the pin and hitch holes. I'd like to go to 12" for the tailgate, but not 18". So far I can't find one with that length and the correct drop. I considered drilling a second hole, but there's a welded gusset that prevents that.
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Old 12-06-2017, 02:18 AM   #1094
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12"s was too short and 18"s was too long.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollysdad View Post
E-trailer's web site has very good videos in the "shank" section. They take each shank and put a tape measure on it so you can see what a 12" shank really measures. It seems there is no standard between manufacturers.
My shank is the standard Equalizer (I think) and is about 9" between the pin and hitch holes. I'd like to go to 12" for the tailgate, but not 18". So far I can't find one with that length and the correct drop. I considered drilling a second hole, but there's a welded gusset that prevents that.

Hi, With the standard Equal-I-zer shank, I couldn't fully open my tailgate. After lots of looking, I bought an 18" shank with the same drop. I then had a new hole drilled 2"s back and so it would completely go through my receiver, but not hit my spare tire, I had 1" cut off of the end. I also plugged the original pin hole so it couldn't be accidentally used.
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Old 12-06-2017, 05:51 AM   #1095
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS View Post
Hi, With the standard Equal-I-zer shank, I couldn't fully open my tailgate. After lots of looking, I bought an 18" shank with the same drop. I then had a new hole drilled 2"s back and so it would completely go through my receiver, but not hit my spare tire, I had 1" cut off of the end. I also plugged the original pin hole so it couldn't be accidentally used.
What's wrong with just using 18"? Why are you guys drilling (or thinking about it) new holes to make it shorter. Shorter may be a little stronger, but can't be much??

Bill
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Old 12-06-2017, 10:26 AM   #1096
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^Because shorter is always better.

It comes back to wheelbase. Or specifically, wheelbase to rear overhang ratio. Using a longer stinger worsens this ratio. Such that stability, sway, and weight distribution are all negatively affected. Inches here matter.

I actually took my original stinger, and cut it down as short as possible (by ~3") for fitment on my LX570, in order to maximize stability on a relatively short wheelbase vehicle. Not that it needed it, but it's well known this is a critical dimension for enhanced stability.

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Old 12-06-2017, 10:38 AM   #1097
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billrector View Post
Hi....I am moving from a Toyota Tundra to a Ford F-250. My AS is a 27' Flying Cloud FB. The trailer is in storage, so I am unable to get there to measure the hitch height.

I believe the F-250 receiver is higher than the Tundra. I put the Equalizer hitch into the receiver and the top of the ball is about 25" above the ground. My issue is that it looks like the hitch is set on the lowest setting, so how would I lower it? If I need to get something else, can you point me in the right direction? What height should the ball be?
The most straightforward fix is to get a stinger with more drop.

Though I went a different direction with my setup. My tow vehicle has a relatively high hitch, along with larger 33.5" tires that lift the overall rig. This would have necessitated a 3" lower drop. I decided to lift the AS 3" with dexter lift blocks. I really disliked constantly dragging the trailer tail at gas stations and uneven transitions. The lifted AS fits with profile of my tow vehicle better this way as well.

Perfectly level now.

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Old 12-06-2017, 11:46 PM   #1098
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billrector View Post
What's wrong with just using 18"? Why are you guys drilling (or thinking about it) new holes to make it shorter. Shorter may be a little stronger, but can't be much??

Bill
Hi, for me, a 16" shank would work great, but I couldn't find with the other measurements that I needed.
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Old 12-07-2017, 04:37 AM   #1099
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pteck,
I agree you have to be careful when towing the trailer across dips. However, raising the trailer raises the center of gravity. Have you noticed any instability in high winds or heavy trucks passing?
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Old 12-07-2017, 09:10 AM   #1100
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I also did the 3Ē lify on my 23D. No difference in towing. Itís an easy mod for the DYIer. And well worth it.
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