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FCStreamer · 09-10-2016, 01:37 PM

My dealer hooked it up for me so I have no idea. It just works. I guess I should understand its operation better. One day maybe.

cory_can · 09-10-2016, 03:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by abone

That is a good question, the AS dealer slapped it on so I'm not sure what they did, but pretty sure no accounting for air suspension took place in the set-up.
I have called Equal-i-zer and Joey told me what to do with the wheel well measurements, but that's all. Other than engaging tire jack mode when hooking up and unhooking, I'm not sure what else I can do to account for it.

I've towed a few trailers in my time, and never has one towed as nice as this....but that light front axle is driving me crazy!

Any suggestions?

Quote:

In addition, my wheel well measurements are, air susp engaged:
Front uncoupled - 36"
Front coupled and WD applied - 37 3/4"
Rear uncoupled 38 1/8"
Rear coupled and WD applied - 38"

What are you measurements with the trailer on the ball, without WD applied and in Jack mode?

I'm using a different WD system than yours but with regard to air suspension they are all pretty much the same. IMO, you aren't recovering nearly enough front gap with your current setup.

You may want to find some level ground and go through the steps to verify how things work out compared to the dealer setup.

Also, you may need more bar. I'm surprised you're only using 1000 pound bars (and that's what was recommended).....even with under 1K tongue weight I was and still am using 1400lb bars on my Eaz-lift system (CanAM setup) to transfer weight forward. It's a little more difficult to move weight forward on trucks and beefier bars help.

With regard to Air suspension, here is the steps RAM suggest for the 1500.

**Assuming you have your shank height set properly with ride height set to NORMAL.
1. Set to NORMAL air setting height and leave engine ON.
2. Postion truck ready to connect trailer on ball.
3. Activate JACK Mode
4. Measure Front Wheel gap
5. Attach trailer without WD engaged.
6. Measure Front Wheel gap
7. **Install WD and adjust to recover front wheel gap. Use a car JACK to engage WD bars onto brackets rather than using the trailer tongue jack to lift truck/trailer. Even in Jack mode the air suspension may dump air if you lift truck.
**RAM only recommends recovering 1/3 of the gap but other experts believe 1/2 to almost complete recovery is a better goal.
8. Cancel JACK mode and you should be ready to go.

Good luck.

m.hony · 09-10-2016, 03:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FCStreamer

My dealer hooked it up for me so I have no idea. It just works. I guess I should understand its operation better. One day maybe.

The dealer hooked mine up, too.
It didn't have enough weight distribution or sway control.
Then I had Jackson Center do it again.
It still didn't have enough weight distribution, but sway control was better.
After I adjusted everything by trial and error it finally had good weight distribution and good sway control.
All this took over 2 years.

Sent from my iPad using Airstream Forums

abone · 09-11-2016, 09:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cory_can

Also, you may need more bar. I'm surprised you're only using 1000 pound bars (and that's what was recommended).....even with under 1K tongue weight I was and still am using 1400lb bars on my Eaz-lift system (CanAM setup) to transfer weight forward. It's a little more difficult to move weight forward on trucks and beefier bars help.

With regard to Air suspension, here is the steps RAM suggest for the 1500.

**Assuming you have your shank height set properly with ride height set to NORMAL.
1. Set to NORMAL air setting height and leave engine ON.
2. Postion truck ready to connect trailer on ball.
3. Activate JACK Mode
4. Measure Front Wheel gap
5. Attach trailer without WD engaged.
6. Measure Front Wheel gap
7. **Install WD and adjust to recover front wheel gap. Use a car JACK to engage WD bars onto brackets rather than using the trailer tongue jack to lift truck/trailer. Even in Jack mode the air suspension may dump air if you lift truck.
**RAM only recommends recovering 1/3 of the gap but other experts believe 1/2 to almost complete recovery is a better goal.
8. Cancel JACK mode and you should be ready to go.

Good luck.

Thanks for this Cory. I spoke to CanAm a few times, they recommended a 1000 lbs bar, as did the dealer, and Equal-i-zer's hitch selection guide. I suppose I could have moved one size up, 1200 lbs, but then the ride would stiffen up.

I've followed Ram's guide as per above, with the exception of the car jack method. I'll take another run at it today. I will confirm the ball height was set right at the dealership, then add another washer. I don't want to raise the bar bracket anymore as they aren't sitting level now.

cory_can · 09-11-2016, 11:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by abone

Thanks for this Cory. I spoke to CanAm a few times, they recommended a 1000 lbs bar, as did the dealer, and Equal-i-zer's hitch selection guide. I suppose I could have moved one size up, 1200 lbs, but then the ride would stiffen up.

I've followed Ram's guide as per above, with the exception of the car jack method. I'll take another run at it today. I will confirm the ball height was set right at the dealership, then add another washer. I don't want to raise the bar bracket anymore as they aren't sitting level now.

With more bar it will be stiffer but the front wheels should be locked down better. The entire truck should also feel more stable. How does the weight at the front/steer wheels "feel" now, regardless of measurements? I would be curious to know your front/rear wheel measurements without trailer, with trailer and no WD applied (jack mode) and with WD applied.

abone · 09-11-2016, 11:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cory_can

With more bar it will be stiffer but the front wheels should be locked down better. The entire truck should also feel more stable. How does the weight at the front/steer wheels "feel" now, regardless of measurements? I would be curious to know your front/rear wheel measurements without trailer, with trailer and no WD applied (jack mode) and with WD applied.

I don't have measurements with trailer/no WD applied. Going to do that in a hour or so. This is what I have so far, air susp engaged:

Front uncoupled - 36"
Front coupled and WD applied - 37 3/4"
Rear uncoupled 38 1/8"
Rear coupled and WD applied - 38"

I will check the ball height too, maybe its a little low. Can't tell in my driveway as it's a bit of a slope.

Seems to be two strong opinions on the forum regarding too much bar, with Airstreams. There have been examples of heavier bars creating problems with rivet popping.

That's the thing, if I never took the rig across the scales I'd confidently say its the nicest towing combination I have ever experienced.

How do you like the move up to a 2500 CTD Laramie Ltd? I can see that in my future. Silver of course!

cory_can · 09-11-2016, 12:30 PM

^ I LOVE my 2500! Amazing truck and I'll never go back. If you're interested I recently wrote a few blurbs about my experience here:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f520...ml#post1846770

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f520...ml#post1846887

abone · 09-11-2016, 06:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cory_can

^ I LOVE my 2500! Amazing truck and I'll never go back. If you're interested I recently wrote a few blurbs about my experience here:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f520...ml#post1846770

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f520...ml#post1846887

I knew you'd say that about the 2500, and I agree. Nothing can replace mass for towing. It's simply physics. I've committed to the wife we will try the 1500 for a few trips before I buy a 2500...heh heh heh.

So I made some adjustments today. I added one more spacer, a thinner spacer than stock, so I am at 6 1/2, plus I measured the ball height as per installed by the dealer and saw it was about 4 cm high so adjusted it down to match the hitch. Took all the measurements (and sorry about metric but my son wrote it all down in cm), all measurements in tire jack mode:

Rear wheel well:

A - TV uncoupled - 102 cm
B - TV coupled no WD - 93.5 cm
C - TV coupled c/w WD - 96 cm

Front wheel well:

A - TV uncoupled - 93 cm
B - TV coupled no WD - 94 cm
C - TV coupled c/w WD - 92 cm

I called Equal-i-zer on Friday and was told for air suspension the front wheel C measure should be slightly under the A measurement, so I am there.
Unfortunately the scales were closed today so couldn't confirm I moved more weight forward. I am heading out on a 1200 km trip tomorrow so will weigh en route somewhere.

cory_can · 09-11-2016, 08:41 PM

^ those numbers look much better than what you posted earlier....I'm suspecting the shank/ball height change was a big factor.

abone · 09-11-2016, 09:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cory_can

^ those numbers look much better than what you posted earlier....I'm suspecting the shank/ball height change was a big factor.

I agree, hopefully the scale will confirm.

Btw, when you priced out the 2500, did you look at the 3500 as well? In BC the 3500 is a few hundred cheaper because it qualifies as a commercial vehicle so doesn't attract the luxury tax.

cory_can · 09-11-2016, 10:11 PM

^ I didn't because I wanted the coil rear suspension w/ air of the 2500 rather than leaf springs in the 3500. The 3500 w/ air is still a leaf spring rear end and I didn't need anywhere near that kind of payload/capacity and associated stiff ride when not hauling. Also, a 3500 may be too jarring for an Airstream.

If I was ever considering the 3Klb pin weight of a huge 15Klbs+ fifth wheel, the 3500 is the way to go..::but I would never do that. I've done the due diligence and I much prefer a higher end trailer (Airstream) rather than a cheap looking house

abone · 09-11-2016, 10:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cory_can

^ I didn't because I wanted the coil rear suspension w/ air of the 2500 rather than leaf springs in the 3500. The 3500 w/ air is still a leaf spring rear end and I didn't need anywhere near that kind of payload/capacity and associated stiff ride when not hauling. Also, a 3500 may be too jarring for an Airstream.

If I was ever considering the 3Klb pin weight of a huge 15Klbs+ fifth wheel, the 3500 is the way to go..::but I would never do that. I've done the due diligence and I much prefer a higher end trailer (Airstream) rather than a cheap looking house

Ah right, forgot about the leaf springs. Totally agree with you on that, and your assessment of the big fivers. They look like our parents basements from the 60's.

whitegs · 09-14-2016, 01:47 PM

Another hitch adjustment question.
I loaded up the bed of the truck with 2 eu2000 generators, an 18 gallon eztote 2, 2 lawn chairs and a bag of dog food. Inside were me, my wife (350 lbs) and 2 80 pound dogs. I measured the front fender height - 75 inches unloaded, 85 inches with trailer connected but no bars, 80 inches with the bars so it corrected half way which is good.
Then I took the setup to the CAT scales and found my front axle weight was 3080, drive axle was 4320, and trailer axles 6020.
The sticker inside the truck door suggests max 3525 on steer axle, and 3800 on drive axle..
So even though I'm correcting half way, it looks like I'm 500 lbs too heavy on the rear drive axle and possibly 500 lbs light on the steer axle.
I'm wondering if this is tolerable since the setup is towing great - no sway and the steering feels solid. If not, I'm not sure what to do - add washers or raise the L brackets or both? I don't always load the truck bed with so much stuff and I'm afraid if I add washers I'll be overcorrected when I make my usual trip without the generators and eztote.
Any opinions will be greatly appreciated. I've heard in this thread that moving weight from rear to front on a half ton truck isn't easy. Oh, I'm driving a 2015 F150 with tow package.
Thanks in advance.

Richard

kscherzi · 09-14-2016, 05:23 PM

Add two more washers. I think being overweight by 500 lbs on the rear axle is excessive. Adding washers will shift some weight off the truck onto the trailer.

abone · 09-14-2016, 07:58 PM

Just gone through this myself. The dealer set it up initially, 4 washers. My front axle was 600 lbs lighter than rear. Added 2 washers, moved 100+ lbs, then checked my ball height and it was too high. Got it level with the receiver and added another thin washer for a total of 6 1/2. Fender measurements are spot on, tows great. My axle weights are still a couple hundred off but I think that's it for me.

**Rocinante** · 09-14-2016, 10:14 PM

When we upgraded to 16" wheels, we moved the hitch up one notch on the shank (1.25") and added one washer, going to 6 washers total. Someday we'll actually get around to weighing things. Until then, we used their visual measurement process and feel like we're in decent shape.

m.hony · 09-15-2016, 05:14 AM

When I changed to 16" wheels I didn't change anything.
Looks good.
Tows good.
Good weight distribution.
Good sway control.

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Cispook · 09-15-2016, 06:16 AM

Changed to 16" yesterday and raised the bar one hole. Trailer/truck are setting level to eye. Will be doing a load and CAT scale weight later this month.

2017 27FB FC

KJRitchie · 09-18-2016, 10:43 AM

I have the 2 1/2" extended shank and with the head it's one heavy lift even with a Hitchgrip tool. I found this 200lb rated dolly at Harbor Freight (similar to Northern Tools, another fine purveyor of Chinese tools). Now I can wheel it out to the truck and only have to lift it a foot or so into the receiver. It's lightweight and takes up little space and being a plastic base it can be left outside at the campground. One set of wheels is stationary the other tool turn. The cost was $13.

Kelvin

whitegs · 09-18-2016, 06:58 PM

Does anyone use a pneumatic impact wrench when removing or tightening the shank bolts to get at the washers. I need to add a couple of washers an am having nightmares wondering how I'm going to manage those high torque numbers.
I do have a half inch drive breaker bar. I know people torque the bolts using a piece of pipe as an extender, but the pneumatic wrench would be so much easier.