Equal-i-zer and Ram 1500

[leedav]

Finally replaced the 2005 Yukon XL with a 2020 RAM 1500. I didn't have time to wait for the dealer to be able to adjust the equal-i-zer for the new height, because I needed to move the trailer, so I went to a local place.

The RAM is 2" higher than the Yukon at the hitch unloaded. When the local RV place attached the trailer without any changes, the trailer and the truck both ended up level. They said it's all good and didn't charge me.

Issue is that the ride, especially with the fresh tank full, is rough and bouncy and really magnifies any bumps in the road.

The equal-i-zer manual says to start with the ball at a different height than where it's at with the trailer off and level, and then go through the whole procedure

Will going back and doing the procedure as in the manual be the right thing to do?

Not sure I can generate the torque required to tighten the bolts, so before I spend money I'd like to get an idea if re-doing it will help. If not, I guess it's an even worse problem.

[AShar]

I just went through this recently when we bought a 2019 RAM 2500. After observing the hitch installation done by the AS dealer and working with their technicians to make a few adjustments, I lost confidence in them and decided to do it myself.

I am glad I decided to go this way. I followed all the steps outlined in the Equalizer Manual and/or their YouTube video, and it was easy.

Yes, handling those big 1-1/8" shank bolts is difficult. You will need an Impact Wrench. I ordered this one from Amazon. For tightening of the bolts with the precise torque this can be used. I understand that these tools get a bit pricey, but in the end, the peace of mind you get is priceless.

You may need to make the adjustments a couple of times before you end up with a setting you like, but once you have the above tools in your toolbox, making those adjustments is a breeze.

[leedav]

thanks!

[ROBERT CROSS]

The Ram ball is 2" higher?
Yes...you need to get a lower stinger so he ball height unhitched and level is the same on both the TV & AS

Then the TW will lower the rear of the TV which you will restore with the weight distribution bars.

After doing so, you can return to the dealer and give them a much needed lesson.


Bob
🇺🇸

[leedav]

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

The Ram ball is 2" higher?
Yes...you need to get a lower stinger so he ball height unhitched and level is the same on both the TV & AS

Then the TW will lower the rear of the TV which you will restore with the weight distribution bars.

After doing so, you can return to the dealer and give them a much needed lesson.


Bob
🇺🇸

Thanks. I already have the longer shank (long story). Guess I'll order a high-torque torque wrench and get on it.

[leedav]

Thanks again.

After watching a few videos and doing some RTFM I guess I'm relieved that the problem is fixable and I probably didn't buy the wrong TV. Ordering the torque wrench and sockets. I already have an impact wrench.

[leedav]

Funny it’s almost right. I’m waiting for the torque wrench and socket to arrive and pass quarantine. As it is:
Truck only 36 5/8
Trailer without WD 36 1/2
Trailer with WS 36 3/8

That could be right in theory but I’m gonna guess (and hope) that geometry is a factor

[leedav]

WD not WS

[ROBERT CROSS]

Is the trailer level in that photo?

That IS the strangest looking "ball set-up" I've ever seen.Modified EQ?
Modified/ball welded?
It does need to be dropped quite a bit.

Bob
🇺🇸

[Al and Missy]

Originally Posted by leedav

Funny it’s almost right. I’m waiting for the torque wrench and socket to arrive and pass quarantine. As it is:
Truck only 36 5/8
Trailer without WD 36 1/2
Trailer with WS 36 3/8

That could be right in theory but I’m gonna guess (and hope) that geometry is a factor Attachment 363531

I'm confused by your numbers. First, I don't know where you are taking your measurement. Second, taking the truck without the trailer as a reference point, typically the front fenders will rise and the rear fenders will drop when the trailer without WD is hooked up. Then when WD is applied, the front will go back down and the rear will rise with the amounts depending on how much WD you crank in. The amount of "restoration" of the front axle desired varies depending on the instructions in your TV manual (if there are any) and individual desires. My F-150 squatted a lot and I restored the front height to the level it was without the trailer. With my Ram 2500 the front doesn't rise much and I can't restore it. Weighing indicates, however that my load is balanced and I am within my axle limits. After all that gets dialed in you can adjust the ball height to get the trailer level. With the WD dialed in properly, the truck should be level.

My personal opinion is that you do not want the hitch ball to be at the same height with and without the trailer. That would imply that the rear axle load is unchanged, which is typically lightly loaded with the truck empty. Both of my trucks were high in the rear when not loaded and there was way more capacity left on the rear axle than the front.

Al

[leedav]

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

Is the trailer level in that photo?



That IS the strangest looking "ball set-up" I've ever seen.Modified EQ?

Modified/ball welded?

It does need to be dropped quite a bit.



Bob

[emoji631]

Those numbers are from the ground to the front fender as instructed in the EQ manual. I think that AS-NW just turned the shank upside down for the Yukon when we got the 23FB.

Current setup is unchanged because the local non AS dealer thought it didn’t need anything.

The trailer is level.

I have the longer shank already. Just waiting for tools.

[leedav]

Originally Posted by Al and Missy

I'm confused by your numbers. First, I don't know where you are taking your measurement. Second, taking the truck without the trailer as a reference point, typically the front fenders will rise and the rear fenders will drop when the trailer without WD is hooked up. Then when WD is applied, the front will go back down and the rear will rise with the amounts depending on how much WD you crank in. The amount of "restoration" of the front axle desired varies depending on the instructions in your TV manual (if there are any) and individual desires. My F-150 squatted a lot and I restored the front height to the level it was without the trailer. With my Ram 2500 the front doesn't rise much and I can't restore it. Weighing indicates, however that my load is balanced and I am within my axle limits. After all that gets dialed in you can adjust the ball height to get the trailer level. With the WD dialed in properly, the truck should be level.

My personal opinion is that you do not want the hitch ball to be at the same height with and without the trailer. That would imply that the rear axle load is unchanged, which is typically lightly loaded with the truck empty. Both of my trucks were high in the rear when not loaded and there was way more capacity left on the rear axle than the front.

Al

Not exactly at the same height to start but I’m thinking to follow the manual at first. As I recall you start out a lot closer that what I have here

[leedav]

And the ride as it is is miserable.

[leedav]

Update: the longer shank didn’t drop it all the way to the level of the trailer. But I went ahead anyway and set it up according to the manual. The ride is enormously improved. When I take it into the dealer at the end of the month for the other work I’ll just have them verify the set up but I’m thinking I nailed it

[Ultraclassic]

Originally Posted by leedav

Update: the longer shank didn’t drop it all the way to the level of the trailer. But I went ahead anyway and set it up according to the manual. The ride is enormously improved. When I take it into the dealer at the end of the month for the other work I’ll just have them verify the set up but I’m thinking I nailed it

Pictures?

I thought the trailer tung height with the trailer level and the ball height should be close before hitching, then adding tension to "restore" that height and move the rear axle load to the front axle

[Ultraclassic]

"The RAM is 2" higher than the Yukon at the hitch unloaded. When the local RV place attached the trailer without any changes, the trailer and the truck both ended up level. They said it's all good and didn't charge me."

So that would mean the hitch angle could be wrong ( as you know the height is off) but the tension is close to correct

See article here
https://www.canamrv.ca/blog/post/hit...l-mount-angle/

Can Am RV, has a lot of articles on setting up a weight distribution hitch and dialing it in
Cheers Ultra

[leedav]

Originally Posted by Ultraclassic

Pictures?

I thought the trailer tung height with the trailer level and the ball height should be close before hitching, then adding tension to "restore" that height and move the rear axle load to the front axle

That is true. I was able to drop it about an inch and a half. Not all I wanted but I think enough

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by leedav

Not sure I can generate the torque required to tighten the bolts, so before I spend money I'd like to get an idea if re-doing it will help. If not, I guess it's an even worse problem.

I went to Harbor Freight and bought a couple of the longest breaker bars (24") in 1/2" drive. Then a couple 1 1/8" deep sockets and a 1 1/8" box end wrench (Those bolts are long!)
A 3' pipe will slip over the end of a breaker bar giving you super human torque. You can always flip the shank in the receiver so you're pushing down on the pipe to tighten. (just in case it slips, don't bash the tailgate!) Use your foot for leverage. Equalizer specs 320 ft/lbs. So 100 lbs at a bit over 3' gets you there. If you weigh 160 pounds, just stand on the end of the 2' breaker bar!
It's easier than you think, and the Equalizer is so adjustable, I guarantee you will make changes eventually no matter who installs the hitch!
All those wrenches ride under the back seat in my truck.

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

That IS the strangest looking "ball set-up" I've ever seen.Modified EQ?
Modified/ball welded?

Looks pretty much like mine.
The Equalizer head is shaped like that.
Although the shank looks shorter than the standard shank. Hole spacing is 1 1/4" in the shank and it looks like you can only drop one hole.

Keep in mind that the washers on the 'rivet' determine the angle of the ball and thus the amount of pressure on the bars. More washers move more weight off the ball, vs. moving the head up or down a hole vs. moving the 'L' brackets up or down a hole.

[2MileHi]

Originally Posted by leedav

When I take it into the dealer at the end of the month for the other work I’ll just have them verify the set up but I’m thinking I nailed it

Be chary of dealer advice. Yours may be an exception, but generally speaking they are clueless. At best! Just my opinion.