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DaAairstream · 04-04-2012, 05:14 AM

Prior to taking possession of our "new" '76 31' LY, I ordered a friction sway control, along with a class IV hitch for my E350 PowerStroke van. When I got the unit from the PO, I realized that the WD hitch was the Equalizer brand.

My question is, is it overkill to use an add on friction control with this hitch. I've been reading great comments on this forum about the Equalizer brand, and am thinking it might be unnecessary, or possibly a negative, to add the friction unit.

We've been crossing the country every summer in a '74 GMC, towing a little Tracker. We've encountered wicked winds on almost every trip. I don't mind spending a little extra if it's going to be of help, but if it's totally unneeded, or there is a down side, I'd like to know.

Also, I've seen mention of some slip on pads that are now available for this brand. I'd like to know the consensus of opinion about these.

All comments will be appreciated.

Thanks all.

Ridgerunner3 · 04-04-2012, 07:22 AM

I have an Equalizer brand hitch that I used on my old trailer. It worked fine for me for weight distribution and sway control. I did not use the noise pads. I would not use a friction bar with the Equalizer hitch. One of the benefits of the Equalizer hitch is the freedom to back up without the concern of the angle you put the friction bar into. When the wind is too much for the Equalizer hitch, it's time to get off the road.

Minno · 04-04-2012, 07:40 AM

We've owned and towed with an Equalizer brand hitch for over 18 years and 5 different trailers, including bringing Little Girl home from Mississippi, a 1300 mile trip. Never felt the need to add any additional sway control on any of the trailers. 6 or 7 years ago, we added the nylon slip pads, and that did quiet the hitch down considerably, without a loss in sway control.

Chris

dznf0g · 04-04-2012, 07:47 AM

IMO, it is unnecessary. If you keep the socket bolts on the EQ torqued down to 60LB/ft, you will need no additional friction control. I'd return the friction bar.

JFScheck · 04-04-2012, 08:11 AM

Sounds like the Equalizer is not really enginerrred to utilize sway control as its an aftermarket bolt on?

Just curious to know...

starcraft · 04-04-2012, 08:16 AM

My local dealer offers both e2 an e4 how are they that much different.

DaAairstream · 04-04-2012, 12:12 PM

Thanks to all. I appreciate the help, and the comment about getting off the road when it's too windy for the Equal-I-Zer.

Minno · 04-04-2012, 08:14 PM

Our experience has been that the built-in sway control of the Equilizer works very well on it's own. We have never felt the need to add any other sway control to the unit. BTW, slowing down even just 5 MPH in very windy conditions vastly increases your control of your rig. From what we've seen on our many travels, the people who are fish tailing down the road are traveling WAY too fast. The joy is in the journey.

Kay

Alumaholic · 04-04-2012, 08:24 PM

... as do the others who have posted to this thread.
It would be a mistake to add friction control and could have unintended consequences. Otherwise, as Minno suggests,
Know when to slow down.
Know when to get off the road.
Operator error can overcome even the best hitch set up.

DaAairstream · 04-05-2012, 04:13 AM

The friction unit is, already, on it's way back. Great forum, great advice.

I'm sure it will not be long before I'm back with another question as we ready this unit for our spring migration to Oregon.
Andy

mcintoshMD · 04-05-2012, 04:22 PM

I love my equalizer, I have a toyota 4runner as the TV and the 2012 , 22' Flying Cloud, I just purchased a Toyota Tundra, the 4 runner is still on the premise. Question is , do I need to go through the whole nine yard of tweaking the equalizer before heading out?
I plan to keep both TVs for different purposes.

arodriguez60 · 04-05-2012, 04:56 PM

I would do the measurements on both vehicles. You might get lucky and have them both close enough that you won't have to tweak it every time. You might get lucky.

mcintoshMD · 04-05-2012, 06:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by arodriguez60

I would do the measurements on both vehicles. You might get lucky and have them both close enough that you won't have to tweak it every time. You might get lucky.

They both measured 16 " from the ground to the lower edge of the tow hitch, i.e. the ground clearance is exactly the same.

Thanks

Alumaholic · 04-05-2012, 06:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcintoshMD

They both measured 16 " from the ground to the lower edge of the tow hitch, i.e. the ground clearance is exactly the same.
Thanks

In theory, if the suspension systems on the two trucks are identical, you shouldn't have to change a thing...
But are they identical?
Remember you are decompressing the rear suspension and transferring the load (compressing) to the front.

mcintoshMD · 04-05-2012, 06:23 PM

I guess the tundra is much more stiff than the 4 runner as I lower the hitch the tundra is not moving at all whereas the 4 runner would go into a squadding mode.

Thanks

dznf0g · 04-05-2012, 06:24 PM

I would bet that, at worst, you may have to move the L-brackets up or down one hole to adjust between the 2 trucks. 2 bolts and 5 minutes.

mcintoshMD · 04-05-2012, 06:30 PM

Eventually the Tundra will be full time I think I probably going to eyeball them next time I hitch them up if they don't look right I will have to tweak it and leave them like that.

Thanks so much, this help a lot,

slowmover · 04-05-2012, 06:47 PM

To the OP:

The more weight on the RA the better the EQ will perform. There are threads around here more specific to that hitch type (search) and a thread or three on how to properly set up any WDH hitch (see thread: "CAT Scale . . . "). Getting things roughed-in with height measurements is a start. To make it the best it can be needs a certified weight scale so that final adjustments (and TV tire pressure) are ideal.

The EQ is a second tier hitch, but it should perform well for you with the vehicles described.

.

overlander64 · 04-05-2012, 08:37 PM

Greetings mcintoshMD!

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcintoshMD

Eventually the Tundra will be full time I think I probably going to eyeball them next time I hitch them up if they don't look right I will have to tweak it and leave them like that.

Thanks so much, this help a lot,

I am not as familiar with the Equal-I-zer hitch as I am with the Reese Dual Cam, but I have a similar situation with two Vintage trailers and two tow vehicles. With my situation, one trailer requires the 2 5/16" coupler ball while the other requires a 2" coupler ball; and one tow vehicle has very stiff suspension with a high mounted receiver while the other tow vehicle has very soft/compliant suspension with a very low mounted receiver. Rather than constantly re-setting my ball mounts, I have four ball mounts set up for each combination. It seems extravagant, but it was a savings in the long-run as it is hitch-up and go as each hitch head is adjusted to the tow vehicle/trailer combination - - hitch height, ball angle, etc. One way to economize on the hitch heads is to take in the swap meet at the WBCCI International Rally . . . it is nearly always possible to purchase an adjustable hitch head for well below the price of new . . . that is how I found three of mine.

Good luck with your towing combinations!

Kevin

mcintoshMD · 04-06-2012, 06:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by REDNAX

To the OP:

The more weight on the RA the better the EQ will perform. There are threads around here more specific to that hitch type (search) and a thread or three on how to properly set up any WDH hitch (see thread: "CAT Scale . . . "). Getting things roughed-in with height measurements is a start. To make it the best it can be needs a certified weight scale so that final adjustments (and TV tire pressure) are ideal.

The EQ is a second tier hitch, but it should perform well for you with the vehicles described.

.

Hello,
I followed the link of your (sold) AS image, I noticed that you have the equalizer attached to your AS for storage. How do you that? I have to lift mine from the garage, take aim and hook it up to the back of my truck and then back the truck to the AS. Reverse the process when I come back home. My back is getting ready to kill me.

Thanks,