Emergency decoupling what doing

[luca16]

Hi folks,

what should you do in case of decoupling while towing? I know breakaway switch will slow down the trailer and chain keep the link with the towing vehicle I guess I'd feel a stroke and swerving so instinctively my foot is already going to the brake...is it the right procedure? did you face similar experience in the past?

Luca

[CRH]

I had a 2500 lb trailer come off the ball on the interstate. The chains held the tongue up. I eased off the gas and let the rig coast to a stop on it's own. I did not brake. Neither trailer nor truck suffered damage

[Ted S.]

I've always looked at the connection of the chain to the trailer frame and felt it was designed to hold the trailer if it were a mild event, like if it just dropped from the hitch, but break away entirely if the trailer went into a violent roll or flip. It just doesn't look that strong, at least it could be made much stronger.

[Lumatic]

I would gently apply the trailer brakes, gently steer and as possible coast to a stop. When you come to a full stop exit your tow vehicle and kiss the ground.

[AirstreamJim]

Originally Posted by Lumatic

I would gently apply the trailer brakes, gently steer and as possible coast to a stop. When you come to a full stop exit your tow vehicle and kiss the ground.

What he said.

[luca16]

is there a rule about chain's amount or just not too short not too long? Thanks for your replies!

Luca

[Wingeezer]

One point about the OP's comment on breakaway switch. I always thought that the breakaway switch should be set up such that it won't trigger unless the chains fail and the trailer is totally free from the tow vehicle. At least that is the way the length of cable on my break away switch is set up. Wonder if that is correct? I think so.

As far as dealing with the situation I agree with what others have said - if I ever sensed that my trailer was disconnected except for the safety chains, I think my course of action would be to do everything very gently in braking to a stop!

Whether I would have the presence of mind to do that in a real life emergency remains to be seen, but I do think it would be the wisest course of action!

In fact, if the safety chains are holding properly, I am wondering if the best thing to do would be to get off the accelerator and gently apply just the trailer brakes (manually) to slow the rif down as you pull over?!

Would take a lot of calmness and resolution!

[NY24]

"I know breakaway switch will slow down the trailer and chain keep the link with the towing vehicle"

ONLY if the cable to the breakaway switch and safety chains have been properly set up. I would want the cable to the breakaway switch to be slightly shorter than the safety chains. That way, if the trailer comes off the ball, the crossed safety chains should keep the trailer hitch from dragging on the ground and, the shorter cable should be pulled out thus activating the trailer brakes. If your trailer's brakes are properly adjusted, you shoud feel them as they activate and slow your trailer. Gently slow the tow vehicle while pulling off the road where it's safe to do so.

[B00merang]

this is the key reason to insert a cotter pin through the hole in the coupling latch. I had never thought of it but after witnessing a decoupling I now do this every time . Safe travels. jon

[AirMiles]

Ok, folks. I'm not a dangerous person, just a person who has towed trailers for hundreds of thousands of miles over 40 years. With that said, I've had a trailer come off my tow vehicle four times in my towing career. Here is what you will do and what you should do . . .

My worst event was towing an 18' inboard-outboard speedboat with a single axle trailer with surge brakes. The coupler wore over time (I told you I towed alot) and popped off the ball while rounding a gentle curve with a succession of oscillating bumps in the road. Just the right combination to pop off. First thing I heard was grinding and scraping. Thinking it was a blown tire, I applied the brakes. I was immediately rear-ended by the boat dragging along by the chains. It raised the rear end of the Taurus station wagon and nearly jackknifed the rig. I hit the gas and the front wheel drive vehicle pulled the rig straight again. Then I hit the brakes lightly thinking I could slow it down faster than coasting. Got rear-ended a second time and again a near jackknife. At that point I realized using the brakes was not possible. I coasted to a stop as the trailer kept jerking around and banging into the tailgate of the Taurus. When I came to a stop, the ambulance that happened to be following me stopped to see if everyone was alright. They helped me put the trailer back on the hitch and I towed the boat about 10 more miles to my destination. Bottom line is Do Not Touch the Brakes! (but you will). The Taurus did have minor tailgate damage from the winch post hitting, but the chains took the brunt of the force. I was traveling about 55 MPH when this happened.

The other times were less eventful.

I lost a small utility trailer at about 30 MPH. One of my co-workers hooked it up and forgot to put the pin in the coupler. The only damage was the tongue jack was destroyed.

I lost a 5000# equipment trailer because I forgot to latch the coupler. No damage, just embarrasing. This was at 20 MPH.

I lost a 15000# dump trailer with an excavator. Luckily, this happened while exiting a gas station at the curb hump. I think in this case the tongue bottomed out and the ball popped off. I immediately tightened the coupler ball nut. Again, I think wear caused the ball to be loose.

So each time the trailer fell to the ground and slid under the tow vehicle as I stopped. I had surge brakes which don't apply with a switch in all but the dump trailer. I think the chains held the dump trailer short of pulling the brake switch.

On my Airstream, I loop the emergency brake cable around the chain connection on the hitch and back to the lock on the coupler. If my Airstream ever comes off, the brakes will apply while the chains stay connected. I believe you want the brakes to apply while the chains are connected. I do not believe the chains will break. They never broke in any of my experiences. So I want the brakes to engage while the chains are dragging the trailer.

Hopefully my experiences will help anyone who gets into an unfortunate situation where the trailer comes loose from the ball.

[glenrms]

My F250 dash display tells me that my trailer disconnects all the time while driving (much info on forums). I just keep going and sooner or later it will reconnect itself.

[JCWDCW]

Seems to me that the chains should take up the first loss on decoupling. If the breakaway switch activates it will put full ( possible locked-up) brakes on and you will need to drag the trailer locked wheels and all off the road across how many lanes of traffic???? That i one reason the umbilical needs to be sufficiently long to remain intact if the trailer drops onto the (CROSSED) chains. You get to apply trailer brakes lightly to keep the rig in a straight line. The breakaway switch is to lock up the wheels in case of a complete loss of the trailer. I have seen utility trailers travel nearly a 1000 feet down the road once disconnected. One actually dug the tongue into the ground and did a somersault after traveling what seemed like an eternity.
JCW

[DavidsonOverlander]

I have my breakaway cable set long enough that it will not activate unless the trailer becomes completely detached from the vehicle.

This arrangement is in agreement with the directions of: The RVDA-RVIA Service Technician Certification Program

"Since the pin must be pulled to activate the brakes, the cable from the breakaway switch pin to the tow vehicle should be longer than the safety chains. This arrangement will ensure the cable is the last connection to be broken upon separation of the trailer and the tow vehicle. If the pin’s cable was shorter than the safety chains, separation of the trailer and tow vehicle will activate the brakes while the tow vehicle and trailer were still connected by the safety chains. The braking action will add additional force to the safety chains and likely cause the safety chains to break."

[banderabob]

Similar to AirMiles, we had a total disconnect because of a major pavement buckle, thankfully at low speed on an entrance ramp. The immediate reaction is to brake, we did, and the AS slid into the rear of the TV. Chains and emergency brake worked as designed, but did not keep the tongue jack from jamming into the pavement....had to be replaced. Were this to happen at travel speed, I would focus on control of the TV and brake lightly. It is a scary occurrence.

[Wingeezer]

Some interesting remarks here and food for thought

What I feel makes sense from reading all the comments is .....

(1) Ensure that the umbilical is long enough that it will remain engaged even if the trailer is off the ball and being dragged along by the emergency chains

(2) Ensure that the breakaway switch cable is long enough that it will not activate unless the chains actually let go. (If it activates when the chains are intact you will be applying maximum braking force to the trailer which may not be the most desirable - althogh I suppose better than no trailer brakes.)

(3) In the event of a disconnect, try hard not to react intuitively by braking the TV, but instead, use the manual trailer brake control lever to slow the trailer, hopefully keeping the chains under tension so that the trailer won't impact the tow vehicle.

Make sense, or is there a better way!?

[AWCHIEF]

After the drama was all over the first thing I would do would be to change my underwear.

[cabinetmaker]

I always cross the safety chains...that will cradle the tongue of the trailer. Crossing chains is the law in many states.

I always grease the ball...I have seen a coupler worn completely through and break. I also always pin the latch...and never let anyone else hook up a trailer to my truck. Even when I do my own hitching I go back and double check before I leave.

Ever test the breakaway? I do...just hookup trailer like normal then pull the breakaway pin and get into tow vehicle and try to slowly pull away. If it's working there will be considerable resistance from the trailer brakes.

I have pulled a lot of miles for work and play...always check your equipment and then check it again.

[WestieHouse]

Originally Posted by Wingeezer

Some interesting remarks here and food for thought

What I feel makes sense from reading all the comments is .....

(1) Ensure that the umbilical is long enough that it will remain engaged even if the trailer is off the ball and being dragged along by the emergency chains

(2) Ensure that the breakaway switch cable is long enough that it will not activate unless the chains actually let go. (If it activates when the chains are intact you will be applying maximum braking force to the trailer which may not be the most desirable - althogh I suppose better than no trailer brakes.)

(3) In the event of a disconnect, try hard not to react intuitively by braking the TV, but instead, use the manual trailer brake control lever to slow the trailer, hopefully keeping the chains under tension so that the trailer won't impact the tow vehicle.

Make sense, or is there a better way!?

Great summary of the thread thus far! Based on my prior reading of a similar thread in this forum I would add: connect the breakaway cable to the body or frame of the TV - NOT to the hitch itself. This will ensure trailer brake activation in the unlikely event the entire hitch breaks free of the TV.

Mentally rehearsing everything every time you hook up will prepare you to avoid panic braking and establish new "instinctive" reactions.

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by Wingeezer

Some interesting remarks here and food for thought

What I feel makes sense from reading all the comments is .....

(1) Ensure that the umbilical is long enough that it will remain engaged even if the trailer is off the ball and being dragged along by the emergency chains

(2) Ensure that the breakaway switch cable is long enough that it will not activate unless the chains actually let go. (If it activates when the chains are intact you will be applying maximum braking force to the trailer which may not be the most desirable - althogh I suppose better than no trailer brakes.)

(3) In the event of a disconnect, try hard not to react intuitively by braking the TV, but instead, use the manual trailer brake control lever to slow the trailer, hopefully keeping the chains under tension so that the trailer won't impact the tow vehicle.

Make sense, or is there a better way!?

Nope, that's it, IMO. Chains short enough that jack doesn't hit pavement and long enough not to interfere with turning.

I had a U-Haul come loose once (their guy attached, but it was a BROKEN latch which had been welded by U-Haul so that it would "snap" over the ball)..found this out after it came loose during a normal stop light braking event. The trailer came forward and destroyed the truck tailgate and bumper. It was my Dad's truck and I was moving to college. U-Haul refused to pay. I suppose Dad's insurance subrogated, but I never heard what the result was. Of course they have surge brakes, which are ineffective when coupler is off the ball.

Also, as an FYI, I have a buddy who has a commercial trailer which did wear all the way through the top of the coupler....he never cleaned and lubed the ball. He does now. Fortunately, he noticed it before a complete failure occurred. A lot of miles and a lot of TW though.