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Old 06-20-2022, 06:41 PM   #1
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Eaz lift hitch help needed

So I have a 2017 Tundra and 25’ 2013 FC FB. I have towed for the last 5 years with Curt Tru track hitch and have been unhappy with the sag of my truck etc. I have decided to follow Andy Thompson advice at CanAm and have puchased an Eaz Lift 1000 Elite. I have followed his directions and here is where Im at.

The trailer is basically level now, but the back of thr truck is still down about 1.5”. If i add another link, the trailer starts to go nose up. Is maybe my ball height set too low?
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Old 06-20-2022, 06:50 PM   #2
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Have you been to the CAT scales yet? If so, what are the numbers?
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Old 06-20-2022, 07:05 PM   #3
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I have not been to the scales yet. Im trying to get my intial set up as best I can. Maybe this is as much as I can raise the back of the truck.
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Old 06-20-2022, 07:24 PM   #4
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addl info: as the trailer sits level the top of the coupler is approx 20”. The top of the ball with nothing attached is right now 20 5/8”. If you pull up on it, the slop in the receiver allows it to go to 21 1/2” top of the ball.

Do I maybe need to move the ball up to thr next notch? That seems counter intuitive, but maybe that would allow me to keep trailer level and move more weight to the front of the truck?
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Old 06-20-2022, 07:44 PM   #5
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From the photographs provided, your shank appears to be fairly long, resulting in the ball mount to be quite far from your rear bumper. That might be part of your problem. If you have not already done so, you may want to watch the instructional video on Can Am Rv’s website. It is quite helpful.
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Old 06-21-2022, 06:53 AM   #6
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Smile

Thanks for your thoughts Falcon. I have watched that video. I have tried to follow it closely. At the moment I don’t have a shorter shank to use. Do you really think that could be the issue?
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Old 06-21-2022, 07:42 AM   #7
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I agree with the suggestion that you should get to the scales and do the whole three weigh routine. Measuring truck drop or rise at the corners is the alternative.

I don't follow your logic of thinking the ball is too low when the application of more weight distribution makes the nose of the trailer rise. If that is the right amount of weight distribution, then it would seem that to me the ball needs to be lower to lower the nose of the trailer to level or slightly down. So you would need to lower the ball one position.
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Old 06-21-2022, 07:45 AM   #8
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You can simply follow the hitch manufacture’s instructions without the need to weigh. I have never weighed any of my many trailers. Better yet just stop by a good hitch shop and have them dial it it.
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Old 06-21-2022, 07:49 AM   #9
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You can simply follow the hitch manufacture’s instructions without the need to weigh. I have never weighed any of my many trailers. Better yet just stop by a good hitch shop and have them dial it it.
So, are you saying if OP has only 5% tongue/coupler weight that he has no issue and that doesn't contribute to instability?

I believe everyone should at the very least establish a baseline weight.
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Old 06-21-2022, 08:02 AM   #10
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If he has somehow modified his Airstream to the point where he only has 5% on the hitch than sure but I personally don’t see that. Do you? Baseline for me has been the trailer manufacture’s specifications. Following the hitch manufacture’s instructions has always provided a stable towing platform.

I run 1 1/2” - 2” squat on my truck. This is close to normal load level on the truck.
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Old 06-21-2022, 08:02 AM   #11
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Thank you all. I have been to the CAT scales in the past with my old Curt Trutrack hitch setup, so I am very familiar with how this all works. I fully intend to go there with this hitch. I just thought that maybe I would get it closer to where it needs to be before I go. I thought the goal was about 3/4" squat on the truck with the trailer level.

I know I could go to a hitch shop and pay them and maybe they would get it right. The last hitch shop in FL which set me up with the Trutrack, honestly didn't do me any favors. I ended up with front end separation and a $2500 repair bill to get my AS fixed. I dont think the hitch caused it, but probably aggrivated it. That's why I wanted to go with something like this with the round tapered bars that can be a little gentler on my rig. Also, I'm wanting to learn how to set these up and not just pay someone, leave and not have any understanding on how my equipment works or how to adjust/ repair if needed. Does any of this make sense?
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Old 06-21-2022, 08:05 AM   #12
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I run 1 1/2” - 2” squat on my truck. This is close to normal load level on the truck.
That is some helpful info. I kind of thought that getting to 3/4" down on the truck might be a dream.
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Old 06-21-2022, 08:15 AM   #13
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There are a host of YouTube videos that cover most hitch setups. Some are quite informative.

I am pulling with a 2021 GMC 1500 6.2 Denali. I do have A Roadmaster Active Suspension kit installed. I am using a Blue OX Sway Pro with 1,500 pound bars. The heavy bars are due to a 400A Battleborn/Multiplus II system along with a grand lounge installed in the front. I estimate my hitch weight at around 1,150. I am also running 16” LT with 50psi to soften the ride. The truck with 1 1/2” squat is perfect for my setup. This levels out the truck and trailer.
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Old 06-21-2022, 08:22 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by 2012FB View Post
If he has somehow modified his Airstream to the point where he only has 5% on the hitch than sure but I personally don’t see that. Do you? Baseline for me has been the trailer manufacture’s specifications. Following the hitch manufacture’s instructions has always provided a stable towing platform.

I run 1 1/2” - 2” squat on my truck. This is close to normal load level on the truck.
Well, of course, but we don't know how OP has loaded the trailer...can't see the rear....bike rack? E-bikes on back? Who knows a this point.

And yes, forward rake on a PU (unloaded ) is there for a reason. Most every truck (disregarding specialty trucks, like Raptor, bison, SS etc.) has a forward rake to account for desired "squatting" when loaded.

Folks who raise the front end because it looks cool when solo, are doing themselves a dis-service for towing and carrying loads.

The goal of a proper setup is not to return to the level of an unloaded truck, or even to consider "looking level" as a predeterminate to proper setup.

To OP, what are your front and rear height measurements before hitching up, and hitched with no WD, and hitched with WD applied?

Your pic seems to show a bit lower at rear of truck than front, and you show 9 links under tension on the spring bars. I have no personal experience with EAZ lift, but that doesn't seem like much WD, based on the hitches I have used in the past. You may be correct that trying one hole higher on the head-to-drawbar adjustment may be a good and valid experiment...then apply a link or 2 more WD.
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Old 06-21-2022, 10:27 AM   #15
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The ball of the truck and the hitch need to be at the same height or maybe half inch high on the ball to start with both vehicles level before hook up. Truck is unloaded.

Then when you hook up and the truck sags, the equalizers pull everything back level.
Once you have heavily loaded the truck then the ball will be lower than the hitch before you hook up, but presumably the rear will sag and the front will have lifted, so the equalizers transfer some of that weight to the front wheels and some back to the trailer axles pulling everything back level.
Watch Andy's video. he doesn't use CAT scales. He simply adjusts each bar to get the tow vehicle level both side to side at the front, and front to back using the measurement of the wheel well skirt at each wheel. If the TV is level all-round then the weight is evenly distributed. The Cat scales will tell you you are within or over the TV gross vehicle weight.

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Old 06-21-2022, 10:47 AM   #16
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Thanks all for your input. I'm going to go over the setup again this Friday and I will record all measurements and share them here. Thanks again.
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Old 06-21-2022, 12:08 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rfequity1 View Post
Thank you all. I have been to the CAT scales in the past with my old Curt Trutrack hitch setup, so I am very familiar with how this all works. I fully intend to go there with this hitch. I just thought that maybe I would get it closer to where it needs to be before I go. I thought the goal was about 3/4" squat on the truck with the trailer level.



I know I could go to a hitch shop and pay them and maybe they would get it right. The last hitch shop in FL which set me up with the Trutrack, honestly didn't do me any favors. I ended up with front end separation and a $2500 repair bill to get my AS fixed. I dont think the hitch caused it, but probably aggrivated it. That's why I wanted to go with something like this with the round tapered bars that can be a little gentler on my rig. Also, I'm wanting to learn how to set these up and not just pay someone, leave and not have any understanding on how my equipment works or how to adjust/ repair if needed. Does any of this make sense?


It makes perfect sense! If you have the ability to read, learn, and do, you’re better off doing this yourself. Then when something changes, e.g. trailer tongue weight, you will also know how to adjust the hitch to compensate.
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Old 06-21-2022, 02:21 PM   #18
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You are not that far from Can Am RV in London, Ontario. From their reputation and from my personal experience with them (especially with Andy) it might be worth your while to plan a trip to the region and pay them a visit (with an appointment). They have been doing this for many many years and if they make adjustments they will explain why (and they may cut/shorten your shank). I live almost twice as far from them than you do, and they remain my reference for AS service.
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Old 06-21-2022, 06:15 PM   #19
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With the trailer unhitched...measure the front from ground to top of license plate; then measure the rear from ground to top of the rear bumper. I set the ball height 1-1/2" to 2" above the level height of the trailer (probably about 21-1/2 to 22); hook up; use a level on the trailer frame; insure the spring bar chains are taut with tension. Bubble might be a bit off one way of the other; now remeasure the front and rear of the truck. You will not be 100%, but definitely pretty close on front and rear with level trailer and your unit is not out of balance. I have used the eaz-lift hitches for years with different tow vehicles and trailers. I am using it now with my Classic 33. Good Luck.
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Old 06-22-2022, 07:44 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rfequity1 View Post
So I have a 2017 Tundra and 25’ 2013 FC FB. I have towed for the last 5 years with Curt Tru track hitch and have been unhappy with the sag of my truck etc. I have decided to follow Andy Thompson advice at CanAm and have puchased an Eaz Lift 1000 Elite. I have followed his directions and here is where Im at.



The trailer is basically level now, but the back of thr truck is still down about 1.5”. If i add another link, the trailer starts to go nose up. Is maybe my ball height set too low?


I’ve studied your photos again.

You have 9 links under tension and that looks unusual to some people, but that’s because you have the ball mount set properly with a rearward cant.

However, I think (and this is only a guess) you need just a bit more tension. One link is perhaps too much. You should try Andy’s solution of using a short ½” bolt and nut through one link in each chain to effectively shorten it by about a half link. Finger tight is fine, the nut won’t loosen. (If a ½” seems a tight fit, use 7/16”.)

I did this when I switched from one 12v battery to two 6 volts. Tongue weight probably went up 70 lbs, and on our first trip the trailer was “hunting” in a stiff crosswind (even with the sway control set tight) and towing it started to feel like work. I stopped and installed the bolts. Instantly, the ride changed and the instability went away.

Yes, it can be that simple. Try the bolts, and then tow the trailer. It’s subjective, but towing should be easy, and crosswinds and passing trucks shouldn’t bother you.

This is why I think it makes sense to do your own setup. You will understand cause and effect, and be able to diagnose issues and set things up optimally.

The scales should confirm your setup, but I wouldn’t start there.

A note on the shank. Yes, it’s long. The normal way to adjust it is to cut a few inches off the end and drill another hole in it. However, Eaz-Lift changed the design a few years ago and it’s now a cast piece. CanAm is making their own shanks. I think it’s worth emailing them to see if you should go this route and buy one from them.
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