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Old 06-22-2022, 10:43 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlbertF View Post
Iíve studied your photos again.

You have 9 links under tension and that looks unusual to some people, but thatís because you have the ball mount set properly with a rearward cant.

However, I think (and this is only a guess) you need just a bit more tension. One link is perhaps too much. You should try Andyís solution of using a short ĹĒ bolt and nut through one link in each chain to effectively shorten it by about a half link. Finger tight is fine, the nut wonít loosen. (If a ĹĒ seems a tight fit, use 7/16Ē.)

I did this when I switched from one 12v battery to two 6 volts. Tongue weight probably went up 70 lbs, and on our first trip the trailer was ďhuntingĒ in a stiff crosswind (even with the sway control set tight) and towing it started to feel like work. I stopped and installed the bolts. Instantly, the ride changed and the instability went away.

Yes, it can be that simple. Try the bolts, and then tow the trailer. Itís subjective, but towing should be easy, and crosswinds and passing trucks shouldnít bother you.

This is why I think it makes sense to do your own setup. You will understand cause and effect, and be able to diagnose issues and set things up optimally.

The scales should confirm your setup, but I wouldnít start there.

A note on the shank. Yes, itís long. The normal way to adjust it is to cut a few inches off the end and drill another hole in it. However, Eaz-Lift changed the design a few years ago and itís now a cast piece. CanAm is making their own shanks. I think itís worth emailing them to see if you should go this route and buy one from them.
This is very good advice from Albert. I agree that from the photographs, it appears that more weight needs to be moved to the front of the tow vehicle. The half link approach is a sensible one, considering the problem you encountered. It is certainly worth trying it. As to the length of the shank, I am not suggesting it is the root cause of the problem. However, shortening it may improve stability and the overall towing experience. It is something you may want to look at in the future.
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Old 06-22-2022, 11:23 AM   #22
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With a trailer that big and heavy tongue weight, you need a 2500 frame. Your trailer is too big for the tow vehicle. You are at what 1000LB+ tongue weight?

Time for a 2500 frame. Even if you put better struts in the rear, its still too heavy. IMO.

Scales are irrelevant.
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Old 06-22-2022, 11:28 AM   #23
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With a trailer that big and heavy tongue weight, you need a 2500 frame. Your trailer is too big for the tow vehicle. You are at what 1000LB+ tongue weight?

Time for a 2500 frame. Even if you put better struts in the rear, its still too heavy. IMO.

Scales are irrelevant.
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Old 06-23-2022, 07:09 AM   #24
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Please do not post and tell me I need a bigger truck. There are plenty of other threads where that can be debated. If you read my initial posts you will notice I am not asking if I should trade my truck in and drop another $20k for a larger truck. The axle ratings on the Tundra are plenty enough to tow this trailer. Iím simply seeking advice on how to dial in this hitch.
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Old 06-23-2022, 06:54 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by rfequity1 View Post
Please do not post and tell me I need a bigger truck. There are plenty of other threads where that can be debated. If you read my initial posts you will notice I am not asking if I should trade my truck in and drop another $20k for a larger truck. The axle ratings on the Tundra are plenty enough to tow this trailer. Iím simply seeking advice on how to dial in this hitch.

It's not about axle ratings. I never mentioned it.

Your over loaded. Its pretty simple. Good luck.
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Old 06-24-2022, 04:15 PM   #26
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Were you able to get that hitch dialed in yet?
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Old 06-24-2022, 07:55 PM   #27
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It's not about axle ratings. I never mentioned it.

Your over loaded. Its pretty simple. Good luck.
Opinions on this site are like rear ends everyone has one but some choose to talk through them. He does not need a 2500 anymore than I do. I went from a 2500 to a 1500 and would not go back. I am probably pulling heavier and it does a great job. To each his own but try to stick to the OPís question after all he has been towing with the same truck for 5 years.
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Old 06-25-2022, 06:26 AM   #28
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To the OPs original question - When he dials in more WD the trailer noses up a bit. So the simple answer is to just lower the ball to level the trailer.

The suggestions to scale his TV/trailer do tell what the real loads/WD results are, so it’s up to the owner to make that happen.
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Old 06-25-2022, 07:08 AM   #29
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So yesterday we tried moving the ball one notch higher and that was not the direction to go. We went back to original spot and now have 4 links hanging. The trailer is almost perfect level and the truck is down 1Ē in the back. The front of the truck is exactly where it sits without trailer attached. I think is is as good as it gets. Which is really good! I canít believe a $330 hitch could make such a big difference. It tows so solid and smooth and feels so connected. Now I just need to figure out how to attach the sway bar since the 7 wire cable runs through the frame where I need ti drill amd attach the sway bar bracket.

P.S. Anyone need a Curt Trutrack boat anchor?
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Old 06-25-2022, 07:57 AM   #30
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Glad to hear a bit more tension got you dialed in. Enjoy the new tow. The Roadmaster Active Suspension does a great job with control especially under load in corners. Helps keep the truck level and feeling more in control when towing otherwise you don’t know it’s there.
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Old 06-25-2022, 08:04 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by rfequity1 View Post
So yesterday we tried moving the ball one notch higher and that was not the direction to go. We went back to original spot and now have 4 links hanging. The trailer is almost perfect level and the truck is down 1Ē in the back. The front of the truck is exactly where it sits without trailer attached. I think is is as good as it gets. Which is really good! I canít believe a $330 hitch could make such a big difference. It tows so solid and smooth and feels so connected. Now I just need to figure out how to attach the sway bar since the 7 wire cable runs through the frame where I need ti drill amd attach the sway bar bracket.

P.S. Anyone need a Curt Trutrack boat anchor?
When you say it is down 1" in the back, do you mean down 1" from the rear fender original height...or down 1" lower than the front fender height when WD is applied?
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Old 06-25-2022, 09:06 AM   #32
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I mean back bumper down 1Ē from height without anything attached.
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Old 06-25-2022, 09:11 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by rfequity1 View Post
I mean back bumper down 1” from height without anything attached.
That's probably just fine and desirable. Does Toyota discuss front fender height return in a towing section of your owner manual? How much return do they want?

Edit:

Found this online for your Tundra 2017:

"If using a weight distributing hitch when towing, return the front
axle to the same weight as before the trailer connection.
If front axle weight cannot be measured directly, measure the
front fender height above the front axle before connection. Adjust
weight distributing hitch torque until front fender is returned to the
same height as before connection. Do not reduce front fender height below original measurement.
The gross trailer weight, gross axle weight and tongue weight
can be measured with platform scales found at a highway weighing station, building supply company, trucking company, junk
yard, etc."

So, where are you on the front fender height measurements?
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Old 06-25-2022, 10:09 AM   #34
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With WD on the front returns to the same height as when trailer not attached.
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Old 06-25-2022, 10:13 AM   #35
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With WD on the front returns to the same height as when trailer not attached.
Then you're there, as far as TW effect. Now after everything is loaded in truck and trailer, I would advise a scale trip to verify load balance and to ensure everything is within load specs.

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Old 06-25-2022, 10:15 AM   #36
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Thanks so much. That is what I plan when we head out for next trip.
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Old 06-25-2022, 02:24 PM   #37
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This weigh ticket is with WD on. A few things in the truck bed and about half of what we have in trailer for camping. Very encouraging! If we added another, say, 700lbs of food clothing etc. None of the axles will be overloaded by a long shot! I'm so pleased.
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Old 06-25-2022, 04:14 PM   #38
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Thanks for the update. Your perseverance paid off!
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Old 06-26-2022, 04:38 AM   #39
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Your gross weight, right now is 12,100 LB

What is the GCWR of that truck?
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Old 06-26-2022, 06:42 AM   #40
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16000 and some change.
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