Draw-Tite Will Tell You

[SteveH]

Check out the Draw-Tite web site. You can look up what ever you are interested in as a TV and it will tell you which hitch and what weights it can tow. http://www.draw-tite.com/content/fitguides.aspx

I think that's pretty neat!

[Wayne&Sam]

It would be neater if the link worked.

[SteveH]

Thanks....fixed it.

[Inland RV Center, In]

When it comes to towing an Airstream trailer, the hitch rating that should be used is a function of which Airstream will be towed.

That chart make "zero" reference to the trailer tongue weight and/or length.

Putting 1400 pound bars on a Ford 350 is a fantastic way, "to tear up the Airstream" in record time.

Shop data shows after 40 years, the heavier the tow vehicle, the lighter the bars, or "else", the ride is terrible and damage to the trailer will happen.

But, shops don't care, since they always make a profit from owners mistakes and/or poor choices.

Andy

[wxbuoy]

So where should we go to figure out what weight bars to use?

Thanks!

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by wxbuoy

So where should we go to figure out what weight bars to use?

Thanks!

Post your exact tow vehicle and what options were installed, such as overloads, 4 wheel drive etc.

Andy

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by wxbuoy

So where should we go to figure out what weight bars to use?

Thanks!

I looked up your public profile.

The 2500 HD, is almost enough to pull the Queen Mary.

Your heavy duty tow vehicle will transfer road shock to the trailer with little difficulty.

I would suggest you use something in the order of the lightest rating Reese dual cam hitch that you can buy.

Some of the original 600 pound versions may still be around, if not then go with the 800 pound system.

The dual cam, is Reese's torsion sway control.

Andy

[SteveH]

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

The 2500 HD, is almost enough to pull the Queen Mary.

Your heavy duty tow vehicle will transfer road shock to the trailer with little difficulty.

I would suggest you use something in the order of the lightest rating Reese dual cam hitch that you can buy.


Andy

Hmmmmm, don't think this is always true. We pulled our 25 footer about 20,000 miles this year with 1000 pound bars using a 2500HD, and had NOT ONE problem with the trailer caused by the hitch or the truck.

I will say, however, the 1000 pound bars where ProPride round bars, and not the square harsh riding Reese bars. There are bars and then there are BARS.

[JimW]

OMG ... Hang on, this thread can become quite interesting. Are there any hitch opinions out there?

[wxbuoy]

Andy, thanks! I will post the exact setup tonight when I get back to my trailer. Everything was set up when We bought them. It has an EZ lift hitch. I think the bars are marked 1200... Not sure though. The roads in this section of the country are horrible so I was thinking about an air safe hitch or something else to minimize the shock. But maybe the answer is just making sure the system is set up right.

[F450Harley]

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

Post your exact tow vehicle and what options were installed, such as overloads, 4 wheel drive etc.

Andy

Andy,
I have the Hensley, F450 with 4 wheel drive and 30 ft 2006 classic. What size bar will you recommend. Thanks.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by F450Harley

Andy,
I have the Hensley, F450 with 4 wheel drive and 30 ft 2006 classic. What size bar will you recommend. Thanks.

Use the smallest one they have.

However, my experience says you still have waaaaaaay to much towing equipment, for your 30 foot.

Andy

[Ag&Au]

To keep everyone reading this thread informed:

There are definitely different opinions on hitch ratings.

The only place that I have ever heard advice to use hitch equipment (in this case weight distribution bars) rated at less than your trailers actual tongue weight or GVW is on these forums. Every reference that I have seen to do this can be traced back to Andy or someone who has heard it from Andy.

I guarantee you that any hitch manufacturer you contact will tell you to use, at a minimum, the bars rated to carry your trailers tongue weight. I am also sure the warrenty on any hitch you buy will not be honored if you use bars that are not rated high enough to carry the load.

For your own safety and and pocketbook, please talk directly to the hitch manufacturer before you follow the advice to use under rated bars.

It is my opinion that is is not good policy to use any equipment involved in safe towing contrary to the manufacturer's specifications, especially when that use is only recommended by one individual, regardless of the stated years of experience.

Protect Yourself,

Ken

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by w7ts

To keep everyone reading this thread informed:

There are definitely different opinions on hitch ratings.

I guarantee you that any hitch manufacturer you contact will tell you to use, at a minimum, the bars rated to carry your trailers tongue weight. I am also sure the warrenty on any hitch you buy will not be honored if you use bars that are not rated high enough to carry the load.

For your own safety and and pocketbook, please talk directly to the hitch manufacturer before you follow the advice to use under rated bars.

It is my opinion that is is not good policy to use any equipment involved in safe towing contrary to the manufacturer's specifications, especially when that use is only recommended by one individual, regardless of the stated number years of experience.

Protect Yourself,

Ken

Ask any hitch manufacturer, the following.

If their recommended ratings are used, and because of that, will they pay for "ANY" vibration damage done to an Airstream trailer.

Note that not one single hitch manufacturer considers the tow vehicle "AND" the trailer, in their charts.

When they tell you "YES", then and only then can their rating suggestions be followed to a "T".

Many posters on this Forums, agree that with a heavier duty tow vehicle, the bar rating should be reduced, for comfort of themselves and of the trailer.

Opinions usually differ from facts, and seldom, if ever, are the facts proven wrong.

But as always, it's the individuals choice to make.

Andy

[SteveH]

Originally Posted by w7ts

To keep everyone reading this thread informed:

There are definitely different opinions on hitch ratings.

The only place that I have ever heard advice to use hitch equipment (in this case weight distribution bars) rated at less than your trailers actual tongue weight or GVW is on these forums. Every reference that I have seen to do this can be traced back to Andy or someone who has heard it from Andy.

I guarantee you that any hitch manufacturer you contact will tell you to use, at a minimum, the bars rated to carry your trailers tongue weight. I am also sure the warrenty on any hitch you buy will not be honored if you use bars that are not rated high enough to carry the load.

For your own safety and and pocketbook, please talk directly to the hitch manufacturer before you follow the advice to use under rated bars.

It is my opinion that is is not good policy to use any equipment involved in safe towing contrary to the manufacturer's specifications, especially when that use is only recommended by one individual, regardless of the stated years of experience.

Protect Yourself,

Ken

Ken,

I think you are 100% right, and I agree with you. I will trust my trailer, tow vehicle, and my life to a hitch company's degreed engineer any day in front of a repair shop owner who claims to have "years of experience".

I once had a boss who's favorite saying was, "there are those with years of experience, and there are those who have one year's experience many times".

The interesting thing to me about Andy's statements, or rants if you will, about hitches is that every one references the Reese with the square trunion bars.....like there is no other hitch or bar in the world.

[Ag&Au]

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

.................................................. ......

Opinions usually differ from facts, and seldom, if ever, are the facts proven wrong.

But as always, it's the individuals choice to make.

Andy

It is the nature of human communications that very often opinions are stated as fact. Until such time as you actually make available the data supporting what you state as fact, I shall consider them to be your opinions and will support your right to have them. What I won't do is consider your statements to be fact simply because you label them as such and say your experience is the proof.

My intent was not to say that you don't know what you are talking about. My intent was to advise other readers to research on their own the possible dangers of following your advice before doing so.

Regards,

Ken

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by SteveH

Ken,

I think you are 100% right, and I agree with you. I will trust my trailer, tow vehicle, and my life to a hitch company's degreed engineer any day in front of a repair shop owner who claims to have "years of experience".

Ken.

I also was the only field representative for the old insurance division of Airstream, called Caravanner Insurance Company.

It was part of my job, to examine anything and everything, regarding ANY loss of control accident, specifically towing an Airstream. The data was examined and a conclusion was drawn, that detailed the cause of the "loss of control".

I did that over 1000 (one thousand) times, up to and including appearing in court to testify.

I think most people would regard that as a little more than meager experience.

To my knowledge, to this day, I am the only person in the USA, that investigated that many Airstream loss of control accidents.

However, you are correct, that everyone can challenge or believe anything they wish.

Most people, unless I am mistaken, rely on facts and experiences, far more than any unresearched opinion.

Testing hitch ratings can easily be done, by anyone that wishes to explore the physics and facts related to load equalizing hitches.

Hitch manufacturers all wish to sell hitches. Seldom, if ever, have they promoted the word "safety", in any of their advertising.

Andy

[Coastalview]

No myth here, my measly F250HD 3/4 ton 4WD crewcab shorty powerstroke doesn't feel nor drive any different with weight distribution. Our 28' has 540lbs. of tongue weight. I've driven with and without weight distribution over some same routes with no difference in towing characteristics.
I really doubt my 600lbs. bars are really doing more than just creating a bit of friction for sway control and not transferring any weight forward to my tow vehicle. Bar chains, hitch, set per manufactures specs. No change in visible hitch ball height with and without weight distribution.
I've driven this measley F250- through 9 axle configurations hauling heavy equipment, so driving experience with just about anything possible here in the states has given me some good common sense.

As for an F450? waste of money unless you need to feel secure by having one. Opinions are opinions. Until there's a law requiring over hitching, its a choice.

[VIKING]

Apparently, Reese doesn't ask what you are towing either.
So Reese would sell me a different Reese hitch than Andy would?
Why shouldn't that bother me? Am I safer with under-rated bars that can't transfer the required amount of weight to the steering axle, or am I safer with heavy bars that may cause damage to the trailer? It seems that safety is not increased by using lighter bars but damage is possibly increased, so lets call it what it is. Popped rivets and buckled skin due to over-hitching is not the same issue as not having weight on your front wheels when you go to make that next turn.
I'll take the popped rivets along with the ability to steer any day.

[SteveH]

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

Ken.

I also was the only field representative for the old insurance division of Airstream, called Caravanner Insurance Company.

I did that over 1000 (one thousand) times, up to and including appearing in court to testify.


Andy

A simple question for you Andy....How many of these 1000+ accidents can you show documentation of being caused by using the weight range bars that the hitch manufacturer recommended for the tongue weight of trailer being towed?

Oh, and just so we remember, this thread was started to show where a manufacturer recommends certain hitch RECEIVERS for different vehicles and gives the weight rating for that RECEIVER.