Do You think I need a WD hitch?

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by avionstream

Such interesting reading. Oh, when I leave in a couple weeks I'll drop the tongue on the ball, hook up my two sway controls and take off. No problems, no complicated hitch. Keep posting, I need the entertainment.

Facts and scale tickets entertain you? Who am I to judge [emoji23]

I'm not sure what tongue weight your 84 Avion has - maybe it's not significant on a 1-ton truck (if your profile is up to date) so your method may well work for you. Couldn't be happier for you.

[xrvr]

Originally Posted by SteveSueMac

Facts and scale tickets entertain you? Who am I to judge [emoji23]

I'm not sure what tongue weight your 84 Avion has - maybe it's not significant on a 1-ton truck (if your profile is up to date) so your method may well work for you. Couldn't be happier for you.

And the responses are even funnier.

[SteveSueMac]

Well, I aim to please.

Meanwhile, OP has opened a new thread - looking at an F-150 6 cyl EcoBoost. Oh well....

[xrvr]

Originally Posted by SteveSueMac

Well, I aim to please.

Meanwhile, OP has opened a new thread - looking at an F-150 6 cyl EcoBoost. Oh well....

Well he solved his problem, he'll need a WD hitch for that truck.

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by avionstream

Well he solved his problem, he'll need a WD hitch for that truck.

[emoji3]

Indeed.

[Mergatroyd]

Originally Posted by avionstream

Well he solved his problem, he'll need a WD hitch for that truck.

I don't think there is any disagreement on that.

[ATownTX]

Avionstream - for a solution in search of a problem, you need a smaller truck.

[USAtraveler]

Originally Posted by SteveSueMac

Proof of this - to the pound - is in the scale tickets I posted in reply 43 above. TW was 1080# and 500# was unloaded from the front end of my truck when attaching the trailer without WD. That full 1580# is exactly what was added to my truck's rear axle. The WD hitch takes some of that 1580# off the rear axle and replaces it on the front axle of the truck and also puts some back on the trailer (again, you can see the effect in the posted tickets).

Yes, yes, and yes..no argument. Weight unloaded from front axle winds up rear axle when trailer tongue weight is added behind the rear axle, both of which are added load on rear axle. In addition to overloading the rear axle, you could also be overloading the hitch receiver, the drawbar, and the ball shank.

Here is where we part ways, though. On discovering the overloading effect of such a heavy tongue weight, my first response would not be to slap on a WD hitch. What I would do first is determine why the trailer tongue weighs so much and what can be done to lessen it. The most obvious is to remove some heavy stuff from inside the front of the trailer, either by jettisoning it or by moving it over or behind the trailer axle(s). If after doing this...and (1) you haven't dropped the tongue weight to less than 10% of total trailer weight, and (2) you still haven't restored a slightly forward weight bias on the TV...then perhaps you need a bigger TV or smaller trailer. The absolute need for a WD hitch to correct for something like a 500# rearward weight bias tells me you are pushing a safe limit...even if your towed trailer weight is within the truck mfg's spec. That spec, btw, should be read as a maximum towed limit. A utility trailer, for example, with a shorter tongue-to-axle distance could be loaded to the max and still not overload the tongue; whereas a TT with longer tongue-to-axle distance and less overall weight could still overload the tongue.

[SteveSueMac]

USAtraveler - yes, moving weight inside the trailer is important - I just want to be clear, are you suggesting sub-10% trailer weight for the tongue? I've heard 10-15% - too light induces sway, too heavy affects driveability.

With those tickets (and it's changed over the years) the trailer WITH its tongue weight is closer to 6840 (with 1080 of that sitting on the rear axle of the truck before applying WD) so 10-15% means a range from 680-1030 (I've since settled in around 940 and will check again this season). On the road the trailer axles see about 6000#.

I don't know that I'd be comfortable with less than 10% on the tongue.

I don't think the 3/4T suffers with this setup either. The rear axle maxes out at 6200# so loaded for camping I'm only using 70% of its capacity. And restoring most of what's lifted off the front axle keeps the front end as stable as can be expected.

Just trying to understand your point - not (dis)agreeing or trying to convince you I'm right...thanks!

[Mergatroyd]

MY tow Vehicle manual says don't go below 8%. This seems to be the European standard. I've been towing at 15%. I've never experienced any sway, and I've driven in gale-force cross-winds. I don't think I'd want to go down to 8%. Maybe I'll try 12 % and see how that works.

[VaTravelers]

Originally Posted by FL Dawg

I just purchased my 1st AS. It is the 2016 International Signature 27FB with 7700 GVWR and 770 Tongue weight. I also just purchased a 2015 Ford F250 4x4 Platinum with the 6.7L V-8 Diesel. Truck comes with the trailer tow pkg, trailer sway control, trailer brake controller and pretty much all the options Ford offered on the 2015's. I just retired and wife and I plan to tour the USA extensively. Dealer does not think I will need the WDH. What say you?

Dawg, congratulations on your new AS. I have a 2017 28' Serenity and tow it with a 2005 F250 diesel. I'm the original owner of the TOW and it only has 50K on it, so it's almost new and has all the tow package bells and whistles Ford offered (same as what you mentioned). I have an Equal-I-zer WDH. In my experience, the extra work in getting hitched up (not much) is well worth the peace of mind going down the road. Big 18 wheelers, cross winds not an issue and the rig tracks true as can be. If you get into a situation where you need one, it's not a good time to wish you had one.