Do I Need Sway Control?

[Ultradog]

Originally Posted by SteveSueMac

By that logic - I should take up cigarettes since millions of others smoke.
..

Not good logic.
Cigarettes are known to have harmful effects. The long term negative effects of them are pretty much guaranteed.
Not so with Not using wd and sc. With the latter, a bad effect Might happen but is not guaranteed.
As to the millions of non AS trailers, I would venture 75_90% of them do not use those add ons. If there was significant evidence that the LACK of those add ons were a contributing factor in accidents you can bet our overly protective states would mandate them, just as they did with seatbelts.
When this debate comes up I often think of the "preppers" who store up large quantities of food, water and even ammo because something Might happen someday.
The rest of us spend our money on things we Will use and not on things we might.
Ultimately though it's your choice to use them or not.
I just hope to never see them mandated or even become de rigueur like they seem to be on this board.

[Boxite]

Originally Posted by Ultradog

Not good logic.
Cigarettes are known to have harmful effects. The long term negative effects of them are pretty much guaranteed.
..

I guess... maybe it's more like undergoing surgery and not using anesthesia until you see if you need it.

[pteck]

Yes to sway control. It's all about stability vs speed.

Sway control will increase the margin of stability. Especially in regards to speed, as higher speeds will increase the likelihood of trailer sway. If you never find yourself over 55mpg, you probably won't need it. There are other factors that come into play to reduce stability such as poor weight distribution of trailer, tires, wind, hills. So if you value stability, I'd encourage you to add sway control.

In regards to on-board sway control - that is a reactive system once sway has set in. You want fundamental stability first which is what physical sway control does, such that you never get into sway in the first place. Just like anti-lock brake systems is a safety net. I would want excellent braking performance first before having ABS come into play. Imagine if one had poor brake performance such that every time one braked even for a stop light, ABS would come on?

[Fred L]

Its all about peace of mind and who's threshold warrants the 5 P's

[slowmover]

For a travel trailer it’s not the weight, the problem is the wind load. Crosswinds are the cause of the majority of loss of control accidents.

These trailers —all aluminum aero design — do have differences in suspension which are greater than with aero.

That TT may still be riding on a leaf spring suspension. The upgraded MOR/ryde came in around 1968 or so, IIRC.

More wheel travel, and greater resistance to getting sideways due to road surface problems would be the result of changing to a torsion axle.

Any Dexter Axle dealer can measure, order and fit.

It’s a valuable trailer in that it’s yours and fewer survive with each five year period passing.

The leaf spring arrangement would need to be completely disassembled and rebuilt at any rate. “Looks okay” isn’t acceptable for this trailer type.

It will tow distinctively better. And will ride softer. Brand new brakes are also a benefit.

A new breakaway switch needs to be installed on the TT, and the safety chains carefully examined (Id replace them). Also a new seven-way cord from the trailer end.

Brake wiring is a concern on a half-century old TT.

I’d install the TUSON TT electronic anti-sway no matter what. Reacts faster than the ones on new vehicles.

Vehicle exterior LED lighting isn’t optional. MUST be done. Literally, NO ONE can “see” ancient incandescent.

As to a WDH with integrated anti-sway, the Equalizer brand shouldn’t be on your list. The two most experienced AS shops won’t even carry it.

The Reese Dual Cam is still the best conventional WD hitch. Others are farther down the scale in effectiveness.

The hitch in a class by itself is the Hensley Cub. Eliminates sway. TW won’t matter if a WD isn’t needed. It’s the one I would choose. New or used.

Conventional WD hitched depend on bar bend to effect sway resistance. The Cub doesn’t.

A TW of 350-400 pounds is right at the margin for needing weight distribution.

Brochure weights aren’t reliable. Fill the fresh water tank and propane bottles and put the gear in the TT you’d take with you. Short of maybe food and clothing, this will be good enough to find the TW.

Download the CAT Scale phone app and locator.

With trailer in tow, cross the scale once. Park the trailer and go back across the scale with the TV only.

The weight difference on the Steer and Drive portions will be the TW.

You’ll also have a better idea of what the TT weighs.

A similar method would be used to set the WD hitch.

If above 400-lbs Id say it’s required. Even my one ton Dodge requires it at that point.

Get the numbers.

Tires are an equal concern. Quality trumps other considerations here also.