Do I need an anti sway hitch?

[mikextr]

Originally Posted by crispyboy

What a bunch of fiddle fooling around just so you can "tow on the ball"...

Technically, you are "towing on the ball" with any hitch weight distribution and anti-sway mechanism. Towing without the aid (or encumbrance, depending on your point of view) of anti-sway and WD is more specifically known as "Free-Balling". I think we should all strive to be more precise with our technical jargon

[moosetags]

Originally Posted by crispyboy

What a bunch of fiddle fooling around just so you can "tow on the ball". There's no way in hell I am going to inconvenience myself/family when all you have to do is have a proper hitch and substantial enough tow vehicle. The floor plan in our trailer is set up intelligently enough that things get stowed where they should be. The clothes are in the bedroom, pots/pans/food in the galley area, extra "stuff" in the front of the trailer, 2 group 27 batteries and 2 full tanks of propane, spare tires in their place, and a full tank of water. Truck bed gets tools, firewood, bicycles, kids toys, etc... If I had to move things around to the extent of the quoted poster or do without I would just go back to having a tent in the trunk of my car....
Hitch properly and move on down the road in safety and comfort.

I'm with you, Steve. Following this thread has made my head spin. Moving everything around in Lucy to accommodate weight distribution for favorable towing purposes is just way too much trouble for me. I just don't care to put Lucy's spare tire in the shower to be able to tow her without any hitch system.

Brian

[Halford1]

The lighter the tow weight, it is required to have WDH system with Sway Control (maybe two of them!).

[SilverWind]

"Free-balling" is something that a guy may be proud of.....but generally not when towing an Airstream.

[SailorSam205]

Originally Posted by mikextr

Technically, you are "towing on the ball" with any hitch weight distribution and anti-sway mechanism. Towing without the aid (or encumbrance, depending on your point of view) of anti-sway and WD is more specifically known as "Free-Balling". I think we should all strive to be more precise with our technical jargon

Just being precise. If you are towing with either a Propride or Hensley, you aren't towing on the ball anymore. The ball is only one of the connection points to the hitch. The trailer no longer pivots on the ball.

[mikextr]

Originally Posted by SailorSam205

Just being precise. If you are towing with either a Propride or Hensley, you aren't towing on the ball anymore. The ball is only one of the connection points to the hitch. The trailer no longer pivots on the ball.

That makes sense. I'll also agree that towing with a either a Hensley or a Propride is definitely not "free-balling".

[fossil5775]

Hi, we have a 2017 fc 19, an f150, no weight distribution hitch, no problems. In 75,000 miles there have been 2 moments when a boxy rv passing us caused a little sway, but nothing too bad, funny enough semis don't seem to be a problem . We don't speed. We do drive interstate & all the crazy roads that get us where we are going, confidently. We see most people with wd hitches. We hauled horses for decades without one, no problems. Anything bigger, I'd say yes. If you're worried about every doomsday scenario, I'd say yes. We are full timing in ours and just haven't found it a problem, and like the ease of hitching. Try it, you can always add it later. We have no lift on ours, don't know if that would change anything. Have been debating about that since we bought it, thinking about all the off road places we could go, but turns out we haven't really ventured that way- we boondock 90% of the time, but seem to still seek out campsites. We'll see....

[steilkurve]

Originally Posted by Kanusport

I’d opt for weighing your specific rig and seeing if you need wd. If not I like the Hayes electronic sway control. At least that’s the one I’m considering buying.

Currently I don’t use wd or sway control and I tow with a 2018 f150 primarily. My trailer is a 22 sport.

I tow a 22 Bambi with a Tesla Model X. Stayed away from sway control or WD so far because of the car’s air suspension and the warnings against using WD on a unibody car (though some with the same TV and TT have). I also use Haul Gauge to ensure proper weight distribution across the rig. No issues so far though I drive slow and carefully. For safety though, I’m considering my options:

1) Hayes electronic sway control (or similar)
2) Reese friction sway control because it doesn’t use WD (or similar)

I’d prefer 1 for ease of hooking up but how effective are they?

Thoughts appreciated.

[out of sight]

Originally Posted by steilkurve

I tow a 22 Bambi with a Tesla Model X. Stayed away from sway control or WD so far because of the car’s air suspension and the warnings against using WD on a unibody car (though some with the same TV and TT have). I also use Haul Gauge to ensure proper weight distribution across the rig. No issues so far though I drive slow and carefully. For safety though, I’m considering my options:

1) Hayes electronic sway control (or similar)
2) Reese friction sway control because it doesn’t use WD (or similar)

I’d prefer 1 for ease of hooking up but how effective are they?

Thoughts appreciated.

Your tow vehicle probably already has electronic stability control. Check your owners manual. If instability is detected the ESC will selectively apply left/right brakes and slow the vehicle down. It may or may not apply trailer brakes (the Hayes unit will). The ESC will not prevent minor trailer sway but it will become activated if it becomes excessive.

Some trailer sway is normal and it is not considered dangerous if it goes away after a few oscillations. A friction sway control device will hide this normal, minor sway but it will not cure the underlying problem which is caused by back-end loading of the trailer + too high a speed. Some trailer manufacturers (notably U-Haul) recommend not to use an anti-sway device for this reason. You want to feel a problem coming on so you can correct it. The best solution is to watch your trailer loading so that you maintain about 10% tongue weight. Note that it is difficult to back-end load a modern Airstream to create a dangerous sway condition.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Post #148...

The 'friction' bar worked well with our 22' Safari, try it.
If you feel it's not adequate, go deeper.

BTW...those that feel a little sway is ok are in the minority.
One oscillation with a small trailer could end very unhappily.🥴

Stream Happy

Bob
🇺🇸

[out of sight]

Originally Posted by steilkurve

I tow a 22 Bambi with a Tesla Model X. Stayed away from sway control or WD so far because of the car’s air suspension and the warnings against using WD on a unibody car (though some with the same TV and TT have).

I would not use a weight distribution hitch on a Tesla. You are right that a WD hitch can damage a unibody. The upward torque caused by the WD bars can far exceed the downward torque caused by the trailer tongue load, especially during a porpoising event. Also, I have seen some good hitches on unibody SUV's and they attach with a bar to the tow vehicle rear axle. The Tesla doesn't have a rear axle to attach to.

[Halford1]

In order to avoid a "little" but occasional sway, just stay home. Otherwise weld your AS to TV. that wouldn't work right? stay home. Staying home would be ridiculous, right? Why buy AS and stay home just out of fear of swaying?

There is no way to avoid little sway. I have seen many 18 wheelers sway and it was straightened out by driver's driving skills.

There will always be a "little" sway but not the constant sway from point A to B caused by hard desert wind and/or passed by speeding 18 wheelers. My trip from Santa Clarita, CA to Surprise, AZ probably had 4 or 5 "little" shakes (sways), not the type of sway which could go out of control. The only way it could go out of control is for me play around with my steering wheel. Always stay alert at all times (you can get used to being alert as you tow over time).

As it is normal, your vehicle would shake "little" as 18 wheelers pass you. It is same when 18 wheelers pass your TV with AS and you experience a "little" shake (sway).

I wouldn't stay home just for this "shake".

[ROBERT CROSS]

A 'little' shake is not sway, it's more like J. Bond's Martini.


Bob
🇺🇸

[Silvr_Bullet]

Investigate, Read, Decide, then drive sensibly.

[SailorSam205]

Originally Posted by steilkurve

I tow a 22 Bambi with a Tesla Model X. Stayed away from sway control or WD so far because of the car’s air suspension and the warnings against using WD on a unibody car (though some with the same TV and TT have). I also use Haul Gauge to ensure proper weight distribution across the rig. No issues so far though I drive slow and carefully. For safety though, I’m considering my options:

1) Hayes electronic sway control (or similar)
2) Reese friction sway control because it doesn’t use WD (or similar)

I’d prefer 1 for ease of hooking up but how effective are they?

Thoughts appreciated.

Two observations:
On option 1. They work by selectively applying the trailer brakes. They will straighten the trailer behind you at the expense of deceleration.

On option 2. You could consider a Propride (my choice) or Hensley hitch. Downside - both are comparatively expensive. Upside they pretty much prevent (not control) sway. Unlike the many other sway control hitches, they do not require WD to be applied. I suspect that you could just not install the WD bars (but talk to the manufacturers before doing this). I have a Propride and find it very easy to hitch up under most conditions (I generally hitch up faster than folks using other hitches).

[steilkurve]

Originally Posted by SailorSam205

Two observations:
On option 1. They work by selectively applying the trailer brakes. They will straighten the trailer behind you at the expense of deceleration.

On option 2. You could consider a Propride (my choice) or Hensley hitch. Downside - both are comparatively expensive. Upside they pretty much prevent (not control) sway. Unlike the many other sway control hitches, they do not require WD to be applied. I suspect that you could just not install the WD bars (but talk to the manufacturers before doing this). I have a Propride and find it very easy to hitch up under most conditions (I generally hitch up faster than folks using other hitches).

Thanks. I looked at the ProPride. Not sure if you could indeed operate it without WD. That’s an interesting thought. I’ll look into it. One worry with it though would be its weight. I’m close to the upper limit of the X’s tongue weight. The ProPride would take me over it. I could use WD to distribute that weight but then I wouldn’t be following the manufacturer’s advice though other Airstreamers or towing with an X and WD.

[Silvr_Bullet]

Originally Posted by steilkurve

Thanks. I looked at the ProPride. Not sure if you could indeed operate it without WD. That’s an interesting thought. I’ll look into it. One worry with it though would be its weight. I’m close to the upper limit of the X’s tongue weight. The ProPride would take me over it. I could use WD to distribute that weight but then I wouldn’t be following the manufacturer’s advice though other Airstreamers or towing with an X and WD.

I am not familiar with ProPride, I own a Hensley I do know they use the same principals. The Hensley have WD bars that are adjustable, in other words to transfer the weight to the tow vehicle. You are right that you shouldn’t exceed the manufactures tongue weight.

[Silvr_Bullet]

Originally Posted by SailorSam205

Two observations:
On option 1. They work by selectively applying the trailer brakes. They will straighten the trailer behind you at the expense of deceleration.

On option 2. You could consider a Propride (my choice) or Hensley hitch. Downside - both are comparatively expensive. Upside they pretty much prevent (not control) sway. Unlike the many other sway control hitches, they do not require WD to be applied. I suspect that you could just not install the WD bars (but talk to the manufacturers before doing this). I have a Propride and find it very easy to hitch up under most conditions (I generally hitch up faster than folks using other hitches).

Hi, in regard to Option #1, sway control as it applies to your tow vehicle adjusts brakes selectively and or adjust engine speed to control sway, not the trailer brakes.

[Silvr_Bullet]

Originally Posted by Silvr_Bullet

Hi, in regard to Option #1, sway control as it applies to your tow vehicle adjusts brakes selectively and or adjust engine speed to control sway, not the trailer brakes.

My statement doesn’t apply to the Hayes System. Sorry I should have read previous posts.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by Silvr_Bullet

My statement doesn’t apply to the Hayes System. Sorry I should have read previous posts.

Correct...it 'controls' sway after it starts.

Bob
🇺🇸