Different type of lubricant to try on hitch

[SteveH]

From another forum I got information on a dry, wax type lubricant designed for doors that I'm going to try on my hitch ball, and other parts that need lubed, like the front of the Reese trunion bars. People that have been using it say it works well, and is not greasy. Called Door-Ease available at Ace Hardware store, and probably others.

Has anyone here tried this, and if so, what did you think of it?

http://www.agscompany.com/lubricants/homehardware/185

[idroba]

Door Ease has been around for at least 60 years, I used it as a kid. It is kind of like a chap stick and as I recall, was less messy than grease but still does attract dirt and can be a bit messy eventually. It is more like a wax than a grease.

I have never tried it on anything RV related but I may get a tube and see how it works. It might be interesting on the chains of my Andersen hitch where they go into the tubes. I use a little white grease spray lube now.

[withidl]

The above Door-Ease® Stick Lubricant is NOT acceptable for use on hitch balls, weight distribution bars (Hensley, ProPride) or any other applications where extreme pressure (EP) is encountered.

Greases are ONLY USED where oils cannot be held in place.

Greases are formulated using a “soap thickener” which holds the lubricating oil and additives like a sponge holds water. The soap thickeners have no lubrication function but do determine the “dropping point” of the grease which is that temperature at which the grease will slump and flow away from the application. The dropping point scale is #0, #1, #2, etc.

The oils can be either of a low (thin) viscosity (resistance to flow) or high (heavy) viscosity. Low viscosity oils are used in high speed spindle operations. Most automotive chassis lubricates use high viscosity oils and are of a #2 dropping point.

Additionally, the heavy oils in automotive greases are formulated with EP additives of sulfur and phosphorus which react with metal contact surfaces to form a relatively soft molecular surface which shears away when the oil has been pressed out, thus keeping the metal surfaces from contacting with resulting microscopic “spot welding” which deteriorates the surfaces, i.e. wear.

Also, some greases have “moly” (molybdenum disulfide) as an additive (kind of like graphite). The “moly” colors the grease black. “Moly” fills the asperities of the metal surfaces such that when the oil/EP additives are pressed out the “moly” shears like a deck of cards thus providing some lubrication.

You must use a grease that is specific to an application, otherwise bad things happen.

[ghaynes755]

Withidl I was going ask something similar. If what you have works and is recommended for hitch use why would one 'experiment' with something else? If it works, great. If not maybe end up throwing away the hitch and it's parts.

[GCinSC2]

Withidl.

We should pay attention, he's retired from a lubrication engineering position. See profile.

[slowmover]

NLGI-2

Easy to find, easy to use.

[ghaynes755]

Huh? High speed grease on a hitch? NLGI-2 definition from AMSOIL Reduces friction and wear in high-speed, high-temperature components like wheel bearings and electric motors. Keeps components running clean and trouble free for outstanding performance and long life. NLGI #2 is the primary wheel bearing recommendation.

[SteveH]

Originally Posted by withidl

The above Door-Ease® Stick Lubricant is NOT acceptable for use on hitch balls, weight distribution bars (Hensley, ProPride) or any other applications where extreme pressure (EP) is encountered.

Greases are ONLY USED where oils cannot be held in place.

Greases are formulated using a “soap thickener” which holds the lubricating oil and additives like a sponge holds water. The soap thickeners have no lubrication function but do determine the “dropping point” of the grease which is that temperature at which the grease will slump and flow away from the application. The dropping point scale is #0, #1, #2, etc.

The oils can be either of a low (thin) viscosity (resistance to flow) or high (heavy) viscosity. Low viscosity oils are used in high speed spindle operations. Most automotive chassis lubricates use high viscosity oils and are of a #2 dropping point.

Additionally, the heavy oils in automotive greases are formulated with EP additives of sulfur and phosphorus which react with metal contact surfaces to form a relatively soft molecular surface which shears away when the oil has been pressed out, thus keeping the metal surfaces from contacting with resulting microscopic “spot welding” which deteriorates the surfaces, i.e. wear.

Also, some greases have “moly” (molybdenum disulfide) as an additive (kind of like graphite). The “moly” colors the grease black. “Moly” fills the asperities of the metal surfaces such that when the oil/EP additives are pressed out the “moly” shears like a deck of cards thus providing some lubrication.

You must use a grease that is specific to an application, otherwise bad things happen.

OK, now that you've told me more than I will ever remember about greases, do you have a recommendation for a grease to use on the hitch ball, and Reese trunion bars at the hitch head, that is not so messy?

[withidl]

Originally Posted by SteveH

OK, now that you've told me more than I will ever remember about greases, do you have a recommendation for a grease to use on the hitch ball, and Reese trunion bars at the hitch head, that is not so messy?

Grease is messy, you'll just have to get used to it. As I stated above, just use any name brand #2 grade EP chassis grease, preferably containing "moly" for best lubrication. The higher dropping point greases (#3, #4, #5 & #6) are special industrial greases which are harder to source, so just use the #2 which is readily available at any auto parts store.

[Kyle401]

This is what I use on my old style Reese dual cam. I spray a light coat on the hitch ball, cams, arms, and trunnion heads prior to towing. It eliminates the popping and creaking and includes a rust inhibitor.

I use an applicator straw to direct it only on the surfaces that need it to virtually eliminate the mess.

[SteveH]

If anyone is interested, I found some assembly lube at the auto parts store that is seeming to work really well, is easy to use, and not too messy, although a good clean up of the hitch is needed after a few days of use. Been using it for several months now, and several thousand towing miles with what looks like no wear on the hitch or ball. It comes in a plastic bottle with a twist opening applicator, and contains "moly". Manufacturer is Lucas Oil Products.

http://www.autozone.com/miscellaneou...0/?kpid=692400

[r carl]

Originally Posted by ghaynes755

Huh? High speed grease on a hitch? NLGI-2 definition from AMSOIL Reduces friction and wear in high-speed, high-temperature components like wheel bearings and electric motors. Keeps components running clean and trouble free for outstanding performance and long life. NLGI #2 is the primary wheel bearing recommendation.

I think NLGI #2 is good to 3000 rpm and NLGI #1 is good up to 6000 rpm in a bearing.

[Dan and Liz]

Yamalube?

[terryV]

Oh HITCH balls. Boy, am I on the wrong thread.