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Mikethefixit · 08-08-2009, 06:15 AM

Thanks Richinny
I knew that was here somewhere and I just didn't dream that up.
Roger

dogpound · 08-08-2009, 06:32 AM

Looking at the photos remind me of when I was not retired and working with a couple of iron works folks. One individual manufactured suspension systems for off road and large trucks and the other person used sheet steel for art work. Seems as though when the majority of the steel was manufatured in the U.S thequality of steel could be depended upon. When it was shipped overseas the quality of steel was pretty iffy. Sometimes you would get fairly decent steel and sometimes you would get soft steel. This could be the problem here and GM picked up some receivers tht were made from a softer steel.

Just a thought.

Bob
4CU/CAC
AIR # 28748

vajeep · 08-08-2009, 09:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flmgrip

Thanks guys some great input!

.

Vajeep has a great point... Yes it is a 'bend' pin I will start looking for a straight pin... Any online resources for that?

The other side of the hole is not damaged I will post more pics tomorrow

Every now and then I get one right

I read all the horror stories about the "bad OEM" hitches and it turned out that my problem was only the bent hitch pin. Like your receiver, I only had damage on one side, and when I switched to the straight pin no more worries.
Our Overlander is about #6080 fully loaded.
You should be able to find a straight hitch pin with out too much trouble. I went to a Tractor Supply store in Virginia we have lots to choose from. I would like to ge the pin in person to make sure that the new hitch pin was an "exact fit".
Good luck!!

Airstreamer67 · 08-08-2009, 12:44 PM

Every hitch receiver I've used with the J-type pin has elongated the hole as shown.

Since I hate to throw serviceable things away, I am still using this type pin, but I install a large washer on the side of the pin with the bend in the "J", which prevents the bend from wallowing-out the hole. To keep the washer on, I use a hose clamp. No more elongated holes.

flmgrip · 08-08-2009, 08:58 PM

more pics and the question why aren't all pins just straight ????

OB Bambi · 08-08-2009, 09:40 PM

I seem to have a similar problem with a Ford receiver. I do use a "bent" pin and I used to think that it was because maybe it was a bit too small in diameter however I took a good look at it today and I'm not sure that it doesn't have something to do with the Equalizer not being closer to the same size as the receiver. There seems to be too much slop between the two. Maybe I don't have enough to complain about because mine has more years and more miles on it. I don't know what to expect. I did notice an advertisement for Draw Tite for their J-Pin that has a big nut on one side that tightens it up against the receiver to cut down on play.

Any comments? Or ideas?

BTW: It says the max trailer weight is 8850 lbs

SteveH · 08-08-2009, 09:49 PM

I had problems with my GM receiver having too much play. My solution was to replace the square reciever in the hitch with one I bought at a trailer store that was made from thicker material. Took the whole thing off and to a welder, had him use a plasma cutter to take out the original, and then I welded the heavier duty receiver in place. At that time I put more weld on it making sure I got good penetration. Haven't had any problems since, and the whole deal was less than $40, but a little work.

ROBERT CROSS · 08-09-2009, 06:51 AM

IMHO

For the $'s involved it's worth the piece of mind. I still work PT at a GM store, we have replaced more than a few under warranty for weld cracks. (replaced with OEM, whats the point?) My rule of thumb, if it has the round cross bar replace, if square bar, inspect often for signs of weld cracks. Both styles have been suspect.

The factory receiver on our 06 3/4 Burb did not inspire confidence, it was changed before our first trip.

flmgrip · 08-09-2009, 04:33 PM

Maybe I can talk the dealer into replacing it with a better aftermarket... I'm still under warranty... What's a recommended aftermarket ?

Thanks!

AirsDream · 08-09-2009, 06:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OB Bambi

I did notice an advertisement for Draw Tite for their J-Pin that has a big nut on one side that tightens it up against the receiver to cut down on play.

Any comments? Or ideas?

I have one of those pins that I used on last truck (a Ford) and it works fine with but only with a DrawTite hitch that has an extra hole bored in its side for the end of the "J" to fit into. It worked fine, locked well, avoided rattles, etc. But it won't fit the larger-bore receiver of the GM hitches.

ROBERT CROSS · 08-10-2009, 06:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flmgrip

Maybe I can talk the dealer into replacing it with a better aftermarket... I'm still under warranty... What's a recommended aftermarket ?

Thanks!

The dealer is only "allowed" to replace with OEM, bring him a replacement and he may install it with no labor charge and keep your receiver for warranty if it shows abnormal ware. (you didn't hear it from me)

Have always had good luck with Reese.

flmgrip · 08-10-2009, 03:51 PM

it seems like reese or curt are both good hitches to go with and cost about the same... now it seems like i might as well get a receiver with a 2" opening instead... the 2 1/2" is just a pain in the butt...

any votes on reese or curt ?

thanks!

markdoane · 08-10-2009, 03:59 PM

I vote for Hidden Hitch!

ROBERT CROSS · 08-10-2009, 04:01 PM

This is a Reese class 5 with a welded insert, insert provides a closer fit, eliminating excess play and noise.

ROBERTSUNRUS · 08-10-2009, 06:18 PM

Hi, Robert Cross forgot to tell us that he had to install stronger rear springs on his tow vehicle to compensate for the weight of his new receiver.

thecatsandi · 08-10-2009, 06:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flmgrip

hello

i just bought a 2007 used chevy 2500 diesel with heavy duty tow package. the 2 1/2 hitch receiver was never used...

so i got my 25' international, picked it up, towed it 50 miles, pick it up an other day towed it 50 miles, all mostly on highway, some on surface street...

the dealer installed a equilizer hitch (who knows if he did it right ?)...

this is how the hitch looks like after about 100 miles... any comments why this could happen ?

thanks !

Look at the wear pattern.
The hitch used in that receiver was loaded down. No WD. If WD had been used the wear would have been strait forward on down.

OB Bambi · 08-10-2009, 08:27 PM

On post #14, vajeep makes the point of the curved end of the pin causing wear on the hole in the receiver. Notice the bump on the inboard side of the bend on my hitch...could be the problem.

Mikethefixit · 08-10-2009, 08:37 PM

I use a curved end pin for 2 yrs IT definitely don't look like that. It shows no wear. I have a 12 foot flat also that I haul tractors on,it has no brakes, so the pin would normally show some wear but it don't.Either the hole was over size or the pin under to get slop wear like that.

ROBERTSUNRUS · 08-10-2009, 09:12 PM

Hi, I also use a curved end hitch lock, but I always center it [approximately] and it stays in place. I don't shove it all the way in, against the bend, or push the lock mechanism all the way over either. So I don't have the same marks on my lock or receiver. My first, short lived hitch lock, was a Master 1/2" shaft with a 5/8" sleeve; It bent on my trip from the selling dealer in Eugene, Oregon to my home in Lakewood, California. [JUNK]

thecatsandi · 08-11-2009, 08:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OB Bambi

On post #14, vajeep makes the point of the curved end of the pin causing wear on the hole in the receiver. Notice the bump on the inboard side of the bend on my hitch...could be the problem.

I never use those pins. I threw them out. I use a heavy duty locking pin. Goes strait through, flush to the receiver on both ends.