Visit our Popular Forums

DCPAS · 03-17-2020, 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Goin camping

Had the same problem on my 07 Safari.

Would have to get in the truck. Push the Manuel trailer brake and let the truck roll forward. Latch would click into place.

Solved the problem by lubricating the latch mechanism.

Thanks for the suggestions. I tried that and lubricated the snot out of it, but no luck.

Just spoke with a service writer at the dealership who suggested having the ball slightly forward when lowering the coupler on the ball. I will try that.

Dan and Liz · 03-17-2020, 12:10 PM

Dumb question, but ... is the ball the right size?

Dan and Liz · 03-17-2020, 12:11 PM

Dumb question, but ... is the ball the right size? (I’m good at dumb questions.)

Mollysdad · 03-17-2020, 12:22 PM

When coupling, I have the lever in the "UP" position, then I try to stop backing when the front of the coupler socket is just over the center of the ball. In order for the coupler to drop it needs to pull the trailer forward a tiny bit, or the truck back! I do that so the rear part of the coupler doesn't get caught on the ball. When I lower the e jack, there is a "womp", and the coupler falls on the ball and the latch slams closed without me touching it.
The second image shows the part that latches the ball. If it hits the ball, it can get caught on top of the ball and fail to drop past the ball. The pawl has to go behind the ball as the coupler is lowered. Closing the latch pulls the pawl up and wedges the ball in the coupler.

Mikebrady62 · 03-17-2020, 01:54 PM

I have no sound advise on this but I would love to hear hat if anything does the trick for you.

DCPAS · 03-17-2020, 02:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dan and Liz

Dumb question, but ... is the ball the right size?

It seems silly because I bought it from the dealer who sold us the trailer, but I think I need to check.

DCPAS · 03-17-2020, 02:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mollysdad

When coupling, I have the lever in the "UP" position, then I try to stop backing when the front of the coupler socket is just over the center of the ball. In order for the coupler to drop it needs to pull the trailer forward a tiny bit, or the truck back! I do that so the rear part of the coupler doesn't get caught on the ball. When I lower the e jack, there is a "womp", and the coupler falls on the ball and the latch slams closed without me touching it.
The second image shows the part that latches the ball. If it hits the ball, it can get caught on top of the ball and fail to drop past the ball. The pawl has to go behind the ball as the coupler is lowered. Closing the latch pulls the pawl up and wedges the ball in the coupler.

This is what the service advisor suggested. I am going to try it. The funny thing is that it appears to me that the rear part that latches the ball seems to be lower than the widest part of the ball and something is keeping the coupler from going lower, but it is very hard to tell. This may very well be it. Thanks.

DCPAS · 03-17-2020, 02:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mikebrady62

I have no sound advise on this but I would love to hear hat if anything does the trick for you.

With all the help I have gotten here, you bet that I will follow up. Unfortunately for me, the next dealer service appointment is May 12, so I will have plenty of time to test ideas.

DCPAS · 03-17-2020, 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alphamale49

A light whack with a hammer pushes mine back to align the pin holes.

Alpha: Are you hitting the front of the latch or just on the coupler somewhere?

Mollysdad · 03-17-2020, 04:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DCPAS

The funny thing is that it appears to me that the rear part that latches the ball seems to be lower than the widest part of the ball and something is keeping the coupler from going lower

Can you use a mirror and look inside the coupler? (or, DOH, it's 2020, take a picture with your phone) and see what's stopping the ball from going farther into the coupler.
Remember, when the latch closes, the rear part gets pulled up to trap the ball.
These images are not an Airstream coupler, but the concept is the same. I' don't believe the Airstream coupler has the adjustment nut (B).
When I've had problems with other trailers, it's because the "pawl" that rear part, get's caught on top of the ball and so the coupler won't go down or latch.

DCPAS · 03-17-2020, 05:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mollysdad

Can you use a mirror and look inside the coupler? (or, DOH, it's 2020, take a picture with your phone) and see what's stopping the ball from going farther into the coupler.
Remember, when the latch closes, the rear part gets pulled up to trap the ball.
These images are not an Airstream coupler, but the concept is the same. I' don't believe the Airstream coupler has the adjustment nut (B).
When I've had problems with other trailers, it's because the "pawl" that rear part, get's caught on top of the ball and so the coupler won't go down or latch.

Thanks for the explanation. I looked from underneath when it was stuck, but I failed to appreciate the movement of the rear part was upward when you close the latch. I assumed it moved forward somehow and I foolishly didn't look at its operation prior to putting the truck in position. I need to operate the latch while looking at it to understand it better. If it is upward, then there seems to be an clearance issue with the ball as you describe and perhaps the rear piece is just too far forward. I do not recall seeing an adjustment mechanism, but I may have been cursing life in general by that point and not looking carefully enough.

ers · 03-18-2020, 07:03 AM

I have the exact same issue with my 2019 25 ft FC. Very frustrating. Will follow this to learn some solutions / tricks.

DCPAS · 03-18-2020, 08:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ers

I have the exact same issue with my 2019 25 ft FC. Very frustrating. Will follow this to learn some solutions / tricks.

While it is somewhat comforting to know that I am not alone, I do not think that this is a matter of learning how to make it work, although it is exactly that in the short term. The coupler is defective and needs to be fixed.

DCPAS · 03-18-2020, 12:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GCinSC2

Can you see mfgr name and model number on your coupler?

Thanks to the dealer service advisor (who is being very helpful) and who contacted Airstream, I have an Atwood coupler which is no longer made. I also learned that Airstream is unaware of this problem.

https://www.airforums.com/forums/f46...er-205813.html seems to describe the same issue on another 2019.

Mollysdad · 03-18-2020, 01:45 PM

The Atwood coupler looks just like mine.
There must be thousands of them out there that work just fine.
Still wondering why your's doesn't.
Is that why Airstream went to the Demco coupler?
E-Trailer has a nice video on replacing the guts of the coupler.
https://www.etrailer.com/comparison....51&pc2=AT88061

DCPAS · 03-18-2020, 03:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mollysdad

The Atwood coupler looks just like mine.
There must be thousands of them out there that work just fine.
Still wondering why your's doesn't.
Is that why Airstream went to the Demco coupler?
E-Trailer has a nice video on replacing the guts of the coupler.
https://www.etrailer.com/comparison....51&pc2=AT88061

The service advisor quoted his Airstream contact to say that the coupler wasn't made anymore, which probably explains the change. I also found that etrailer video showing a rebuild kit. Etrailer doesn't seem to stock the kit anymore, but they must be available somewhere. It at least gives me hope that there is a fairly simple fix to the problem. I would think that the problem is in the parts and not the shape of the coupler itself. We will see.

Mollysdad · 03-18-2020, 04:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DCPAS

I also found that etrailer video showing a rebuild kit. Etrailer doesn't seem to stock the kit anymore, but they must be available somewhere.

Yes, I found it online. About $60.
Unless you like tinkering I'd let the dealer deal with it.
If you replace the innards, they might claim it's no longer a warranty item.

QC TORPEDO · 03-18-2020, 11:45 PM

I use the same method as Mollysdad with my 2017 FC. The hitch wants to be farther back than you would think. When done like that, the hitch almost falls onto the ball correctly when lowered. It is easier when the trailer wheel chocks are out so the trailer moves slightly forward as it slips onto the ball.

DCPAS · 03-19-2020, 07:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by QC TORPEDO

I use the same method as Mollysdad with my 2017 FC. The hitch wants to be farther back than you would think. When done like that, the hitch almost falls onto the ball correctly when lowered. It is easier when the trailer wheel chocks are out so the trailer moves slightly forward as it slips onto the ball.

I've been wondering how well that technique works if the trailer wheels are chocked. Obviously, you can't remove the chocks if the trailer is on a forward slope. I am looking forward to trying it and hoping it works. Nothing like spending an hour in the rain just trying to get your trailer and truck connected. Thanks for your comment.

DCPAS · 03-19-2020, 07:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mollysdad

Yes, I found it online. About $60.
Unless you like tinkering I'd let the dealer deal with it.
If you replace the innards, they might claim it's no longer a warranty item.

That's the frustrating part. Assuming that those parts are the problem, it looks easy to fix and so I have the nearly irresistible urge to fix it, but I don't want to affect my warranty.