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Old 01-23-2025, 10:41 AM   #1
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Ballston Lake , New York
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Can hitches be self installed

We are in the process of purchasing a flying cloud FBT of 27 feet. We’ve had a sway bar recommended to us from Energ-i-zer. Specifically…. Four point sway control equalizer hitch.

Is this a good hitch?

The RV dealer suggest we buy it from them.

Who installs it? RV sales company? The company we buy a truck from?

Does it stay permanently on the RV or on our truck?

Can we order it directly from the company and install it ourselves?

Jeanie and Jon
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Old 01-23-2025, 10:56 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeanieBundle View Post
We are in the process of purchasing a flying cloud FBT of 27 feet. We’ve had a sway bar recommended to us from Energ-i-zer. Specifically…. Four point sway control equalizer hitch.

Is this a good hitch? The Equal-i-zer is a good hitch.

The RV dealer suggest we buy it from them.

Who installs it? RV sales company? The company we buy a truck from? You can install it yourself - it'll take less than an hour if you have some big wrenches and torque wrenches. The dealership can also do it.

Does it stay permanently on the RV or on our truck? It stays permanently on your RV, but you can take the truck part off if you'd like - it's one pin, but weighs about 50-100 pounds

Can we order it directly from the company and install it ourselves? YES! Amazon, camping world, or other places.

Jeanie and Jon
Please see my answers in-line above. I went with the Weigh-Safe middle weight, which functions just about like the equal-i-zer, but has a VERY simple, foolproof setup using simple tools and your smartphone.
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Old 01-23-2025, 11:10 AM   #3
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Here's the catch.
I bought an "Equal-i-zer" brand and took it with me to pick up my new Airstream.
I was informed by the dealer they wouldn't install any hitch they didn't sell.
We ended up compromising by me paying 1 hr. labor for their "Hitch expert" to install my hitch on the trailer.
I got home and needed to re-adjust it anyway.
I'm still using that same hitch. I had purchased it from an ad for $180. If the dealer sold it to me he'd charge $900? (or more).
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Old 01-23-2025, 11:13 AM   #4
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The easiest thing to do is buy your Equalizer hitch from the dealer you're buying your Airstream from. Sometimes, you can get the hitch bundled with the sale, and they will install it for you. This was true when we bought our first rig at Colonial Airstream...the tech was careful to point out different aspects of the hitch and adjustments, and certainly spent time to show how to hook up and take it off.
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Old 01-23-2025, 11:41 AM   #5
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Our dealer recommend a Blue Ox SwayPro for our first AS, a FC23FB and installed it for us. When we traded up to our 27’, I installed it myself. Very simple process of measuring from the tongue back and tightening the brackets to the frame.

We’ve been very happy with the SwayPro and its adjustability. It uses tapered bars that give vs. straight solid bars given the Airstream frame separation issue. Lots of posts about that on the forum too, just use the search bar above.
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Old 01-23-2025, 11:50 AM   #6
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I did that and the dealer did a terrible job installing the hitch (They installed a Blue Ox). When I got home I realized that all of the bolts were loose. I couldn't believe it!!! They DID NOT tighten to specs. I bought a Propride Hitch which is far more complicated than a Blue OX and installed it myself.

Why pay them $200 an hour? They will not only over charge you for the hitch, but over charge you for the installation. Do it yourself. You will also learn about how to adjust it by doing it yourself. Just buy a torque wrench (which you will need anyway).

If there is one thing you really need to understand it is your hitch set up, installation, and adjustments.

Yes, the hitch stays on the trailer. You can buy it directly from the hitch company. Most hitch companies will help you with instructions on installation.

I don't know much about the Equalizer hitch. So can't make a judgment on it.

By the way the two most important decisions (other than the trailer) is the kind of hitch you have and knowing how to use it, and the type of tow vehicle you get.
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Old 01-23-2025, 12:16 PM   #7
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I have installed multiple equalizer hitch’s. The install is easy as long as there isn’t any interference from the propane doghouse. The adjustment easy but takes some trial and error to get is set up just right. Watch a bunch of videos, and plan on it taking a couple of hours and have a cold beer ready for afterwards.
I ordered our hitches from Amazon. I would recommend you get the hitch with the ball already installed. Otherwise you need a very specific socket for Equalizer and some way to torque to something like 420 ft-lbs. The sway bar brackets are attached to the a frame on the trailer, but are easily removed when you sell the trailer. The hitch head can been removed from the truck when not towing.
I would strongly suggest this https://a.co/d/iMGUTDm for moving the hitch head.
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Old 01-23-2025, 12:32 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by JeanieBundle View Post
Is this a good hitch?

The RV dealer suggest we buy it from them.

Who installs it? RV sales company? The company we buy a truck from?

Does it stay permanently on the RV or on our truck?

Can we order it directly from the company and install it ourselves?
When you pick up your new trailer, you will want a weight distributing hitch. However, dealers typically won't set up hitches they don't sell. Unless you understand how to assemble one and set it up, you are kind of stuck buying from them.

Equal-i-zer is fine. I think there are better options - Eaz-Lift, Blue Ox with tapered round bars - but the Equal-i-zer will do the job. I will say that you should, in time, learn about weight distributing hitches and learn how to adjust your own. Most are not set up optimally, even by RV technicians. This video will provide the best explanation that I'm aware of. https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=de...gCNR6HvRI&t=5s

The only part that remains attached are the brackets on the trailer A-frame. The weight distributing bars are removed when not in use. The ball mount (that slips into the receiver on the truck) should really be removed when you are not actively using it. It will bounce around a bit, and it could rust in place if you live in a damp climate. You will also hurt your shins on it at some point.
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Old 01-23-2025, 02:01 PM   #9
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I spent a little bit more and went with a Weigh-Safe hitch (https://www.weigh-safe.com/). I've been really happy with it. They sell direct, it showed up on a small pallet. Easy install.
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Old 01-23-2025, 04:06 PM   #10
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“I would recommend you get the hitch with the ball already installed. Otherwise you need a very specific socket for Equalizer and some way to torque to something like 420 ft-lbs.” [/QUOTE]

I’m too inexperienced to fully understand your quote above…

Are you answering these questions I see on the Equilizer website….?

Standard Shank Included? Yes or No

2-5/16” Hitch Ball Included? Yes or No

Thanks for responding! Deeply appreciated

Jeanie and Jon
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Old 01-23-2025, 04:48 PM   #11
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If your dealer sells the WD hitch you want, I suggest trying to get it and install included in your final negotiated purchase price. That way, the hitching and unhitching process is part of your dealer walk thru when you take delivery.
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Old 01-23-2025, 06:04 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeanieBundle View Post
“I would recommend you get the hitch with the ball already installed. Otherwise you need a very specific socket for Equalizer and some way to torque to something like 420 ft-lbs.”
I’m too inexperienced to fully understand your quote above…

Are you answering these questions I see on the Equilizer website….?

Standard Shank Included? Yes or No

2-5/16” Hitch Ball Included? Yes or No

Thanks for responding! Deeply appreciated

Jeanie and Jon[/QUOTE]

When I last bought an equalizer hitch, you could buy it with or wo the ball attached. I would get it with the ball attached, which I think happens automatically if you say yes and include the hitch ball. Trying to torque the nut on the ball to 420 ft pound is not an easy task. If it is attached by the factory you can bypass this drama.
The shank is the piece of the hitch that goes into the receiver on your tow vehicle and the hitch head attaches to the shank. There are several positions on the shank to attach the hitch head, all at differing heights. The height of the hitch head is determined by the height of your receiver on the tow vehicle and the height of the coupler head on the trailer. Most, I assume use the standard shank, as it has a range of heights that will suit most tow vehicle and trailers. But, for example, if you had a tow vehicle with a 6” lift, you would likely need a longer shank to allow the hitch head to run low enough to meet up with the coupler. The goal of choosing the correct shank is to keep the trailer level while towing or slightly nose down.
Also, shanks and receivers come in different sizes, ideally you would match shank size and receiver size, commonly they are 2 or 2.5 inches. There are adapters to allow a 2.5 inch “diameter” (it’s really a square, not a circle) receiver to accommodate a 2 inch shank.
Just to make things interesting, hitch balls also have a shank (the threads on the end) that also come in different diameters and lengths. Again if the hitch comes with an attached ball, this is not something to worry about.
BTW, we have always been happy with our Equalizer hitches and made by good folks in Utah.
Good luck and keep reading. I found learning about all things trailer is almost as much fun as the camping.
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Old 01-23-2025, 08:44 PM   #13
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Buy the Blue Ox Sway Pro, Its easy to install, and easy to use. Its the hitch Airstream is now officially recommending. The bars weigh about 8 lbs each, Equal-i-zer bars are probably close to twice that, each. I had an Equal-i-zer, let it go with the previous trailer, glad to see it go.

If for some reason the dealer sets you up with an Equal-i-zer hitch with the wrong weight bars (it happens all the time) you have to buy AN ENTIRE NEW HITCH as the bars are NOT interchangeable on the Equal-i-zer, unlike every other hitch where you just swap the bars for a different set. Something to think about.

If you have a friend or neighbor who is handy with tools, and can read instructions, its a cakewalk to install the BOSP.

If the installer does not have the proper torque wrenches, get it all set up, everything tightened as best as possible, and take it to a heavy truck shop and ask them to torque the ball (nut on the underneath side) and the two bolts that mount the hitch head to the shank.

Here is the BOSP installation instructions in PDF format, easily printed off.

Pic below is of me torquing the nut on the bottom of the ball. What Rolind said in post #2 was that a special, thin wall socket was needed to tighten the nut on the bottom of the ball on an Equal-i-zer hitch. Due to lack of space underneath.

My torque wrench is over 4 ft long. Most auto and light truck shops do not have a torque wrench this big, yes, go to a truck shop and drop a few dollars and they will fix you up in a couple of minutes.




I'm a mechanical person. Been working on cars, airplanes, whatever, for over 50 years now. Not much fazes me, I read the manuals, try to understand it, work my way thru it. I spent 30 years working on airliners. I realize not everyone is mechanical minded. Some people have other talents that I don't. Find a friend, neighbor, relative, someone who is a good mechanical person with a decent set of tools, they will figure it out.

Here is what the BOSP looks like installed on my SOB (some other brand) trailer.



Charles
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Old 01-23-2025, 09:08 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeanieBundle View Post
We are in the process of purchasing a flying cloud FBT of 27 feet. We’ve had a sway bar recommended to us from Energ-i-zer. Specifically…. Four point sway control equalizer hitch.

Is this a good hitch? I don't think so, see my other post.

The RV dealer suggest we buy it from them. Yes, and they get to make more money, and most likely it WILL NOT be set up properly and you will end up getting someone else to set it up correctly.

Who installs it? RV sales company? The company we buy a truck from? Anyone with the tools and mechanical aptitude can install and set up the hitch. Its a matter of reading the instructions and doing the installation properly.

Does it stay permanently on the RV or on our truck? Th hitch shank/head slides into the receiver on the back of your truck and is secured with a pin. You then couple the trailer onto the ball, lock it in place, and install the bars and connect the chains, the 7 way electrical umbilical cord, and the break away cable. Some states do not allow hitches to protrude beyond the back of the truck over a certain amount, so when you travel to a destination and use the truck to play tourist, you may need to remove the hitch head until you are ready to travel again. The brackets on the trailer stay on the trailer.

Can we order it directly from the company and install it ourselves? You can order it from the hitch manufacturer, Amazon, other resellers such as Tweetys, where ever you find a good deal (including shipping) on it. You do need an idea of the LOADED weight of the tongue of the trailer to select the correct hitch. This is where dealers usually mess up. If the gross weight of the trailer is (as an example) 8,000 lbs, then expect the tongue weight of the trailer to be in the 1000 to 1200 lb range. Others on here will have a much better idea of the loaded tongue weight of your specific trailer. See THIS THREAD, especially post #12 for discussion on the weight capacity of bars..

Jeanie and Jon
One word of caution should you decide to buy a BOSP hitch. Go to Harbor Freight, Home Depot, etc and purchase a 24 inch long "breaker bar" in 1/2 inch square drive. You will also need a 1/2 inch drive socket, 12 point, one inch. This makes operating the rotating chain bracket much easier and safer than the wrench Blue Ox provides.

Charles
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Old 01-24-2025, 09:03 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by CharlesinGA View Post
Pic below is of me torquing the nut on the bottom of the ball. What Rolind said in post #2 was that a special, thin wall socket was needed to tighten the nut on the bottom of the ball on an Equal-i-zer hitch. Due to lack of space underneath.

My torque wrench is over 4 ft long. Most auto and light truck shops do not have a torque wrench this big, yes, go to a truck shop and drop a few dollars and they will fix you up in a couple of minutes.

See a lot that people should take advantage of. 1. turning the shank sideways so you pull down, not sideways. 2. Bracing the wrench on a jack stand? Genius.
I don't have a 4' torque wrench but I do have a pencil. I use a HF breaker bar with a section of pipe over it. Let's say I need 450 ft/lbs of torque. That translates to 450# of downforce on a 1' bar, not practical. However it's also 150# of force on a 3' bar, or 225# on a 2' bar. I've been known to stand on the breaker bar.
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I'm a mechanical person. Been working on cars, airplanes, whatever, for over 50 years now. Not much fazes me, I read the manuals, try to understand it, work my way thru it. I spent 30 years working on airliners. I realize not everyone is mechanical minded. Some people have other talents that I don't. Find a friend, neighbor, relative, someone who is a good mechanical person with a decent set of tools, they will figure it out.
I grew up on a farm. Poor. My dad fixed everything. He'd say, "It wasn't made in heaven, it was made by humans and humans can fix it."
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Old 01-24-2025, 09:45 AM   #16
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One advantage of self install is you'll learn so much as to how it works and how it adjusts. The Equal-i-zer, for example, is very, very adjustable, but it requires disassembly to change anything.
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Old 01-24-2025, 10:11 AM   #17
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I will try to answer your questions.


First of all, the Equalizer is a good hitch but there are others out there that are very good as well. Equalizer has been around for many, many years.


When set up you will have two L brackets permanently attached to the trailer. Everything else comes out of the receiver when you remove the hitch itself. Mine sits in the garage next to the weight distributing bars.


Yes, you can set it up yourself but.....you do need to have a minimum of mechanical ability. Reading directions, measuring things and then making the changes, some of which require you take parts off of the hitch head and then reinstall them. The directions that they provide are very well written and easy to follow. I purchased mine used and it came with the hitch. When I got it home I made some adjustments and then when I replaced my TV I had to do it all again.



There is a lot of negative feelings toward the Equalizer and these have increased with the redesign of the newer FB model Airstreams. There was a weakness in the frame that produced problems with over stressed WD systems. The Equalizer uses rather stout bars that do not flex so they became the scapegoat for the front end issues. You can Google FES (front end separation) to get all you need to read. The problem, as I see it, is that an over tightened WD system can cause problems. The real cause of FES is frame design. A poorly set up WD hitch can aggravate the problem but it is not unique to Equalizer.


Setting up is critical. You need to adjust it to return the load to the front wheels which levels the system. If you can level it with a "2" (a made up adjustment figure), don't crank it up to 6 or 7. More is not better.


I have been using an Equalizer even before I got my 25FB in 2009. Never had a problem with it after over 65K miles towing.


P.S. Torquing the nuts down is a challenge. You can set up the hitch and then take it to one of your local mechanics and they will gladly torque them. No big deal, no need for special tools, no sweat.
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Old 01-24-2025, 10:21 AM   #18
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Your biggest challenge will be getting some bolts on the hitch torqued to spec
My easy lift head required 400 ft lbs of torque to set the bolts that hold the head at the correct angle and the hitch ball is at least 2 hundred ft lb
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Old 01-24-2025, 11:19 AM   #19
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The equalizer hitch is fine, I used one for 14 years before it finally wore out. One thing is VERY IMPORTANT!! Make sure the bars are rated for 600-800 lbs. Some come with 1200 lb bars which will beat your trailer to death. They can cause cracks to form at the bottom corners of your front compartment. You didn't post your TV but this is especially true if you have a TV with a stiff suspension like a 1 ton rated truck like a F350 or similar.
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Old 01-24-2025, 04:48 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeanieBundle View Post
We are in the process of purchasing a flying cloud FBT of 27 feet. We’ve had a sway bar recommended to us from Energ-i-zer. Specifically…. Four point sway control equalizer hitch.

Is this a good hitch?

The RV dealer suggest we buy it from them.

Who installs it? RV sales company? The company we buy a truck from?

Does it stay permanently on the RV or on our truck?

Can we order it directly from the company and install it ourselves?

Jeanie and Jon
Do you not have someone local that can help you install it ? The only thing you cant do most likely is install the ball to the hitch as it is torqued to a higher value that most people have the ability to torque.

If you buy a hitch like the fastway trunnion, buy it with the ball installed already. You can do the rest with some help. The fastway system and equalizer system is not permanent in the way you think.
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