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Old 03-04-2019, 05:55 PM   #1
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Blue Ox SwayPro 1000 vs 1500 lbs spring bars

I have the 1000 pound bars currently, included with the WD hitch when we purchased the AS. However with full propane, full water and other stuff I am at about 1200 pounds TW so I purchased the 1500 bars after talking to etrailer.com. To move to the 1500 pound bars you must also have the 2 1/2 inch hitch version, which I have.

I just received the 1500 pound bars and don't see a visual difference, other than a slight bend in the older 1000 pound bars. I guess I expected thicker bars?

I have an email into etrailer.com customer support with this question as well.

I would guess someone else out there has both 1000 and 1500 pound bars, is there a visual difference?
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Old 03-04-2019, 06:35 PM   #2
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There are punch marks or dots on the round shank end that identify the weight range. Pat


Ref - http://www.blueox.com/wp-content/upl...4150420041.pdf

Bottom of page 2
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Old 03-04-2019, 07:04 PM   #3
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Thanks for pointing that out! I do vaguely remember reading that now.

Well, my dealer told me I had 1,000 pound bars. I ordered the 1,500 pound bars.

Apparently I had 1,500 pound bars all along. Now I have TWO sets. Oh yippie.

The documentation that PKI pointed out also says the bars will always return to being straight. My old ones are bent.

Hmmm.
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Old 03-05-2019, 06:23 AM   #4
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What was the original concern?
Are you transferring enough weight but the bars are bent.
It may be the KR is a bit much for the Blue Ox. The receiver design can also effect weight transfer especially on a long wheelbase vehicle.
I had to swap our OEM receiver to improve WD...note the longer mount arms on the Reese, longer arm better leverage.

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Old 03-05-2019, 06:50 AM   #5
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Blue Ox SwayPro 1000 vs 1500 lbs spring bars

Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
What was the original concern?

Are you transferring enough weight but the bars are bent.

It may be the KR is a bit much for the Blue Ox. The receiver design can also effect weight transfer especially on a long wheelbase vehicle.

I had to swap our OEM receiver to improve WD...note the longer mount arms on the Reese, longer arm better leverage.



Bob



Original concern was that my TW was over 1000 pounds and thought I needed new bars. Turns out the ones I had all along are correct.

New issue is why would they bend when they are not supposed to?

I have the bigger 2 1/2 inch shank for the Blue Ox and I believe the stock receiver on the F250 is up to the job as well. I have never had any sway or control concerns with the setup of fact it tows very well. Only concern now is the bent bars.

I will contact Blue Ox.
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Old 03-05-2019, 07:15 AM   #6
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They do bend, that is how they work. What is unusual is that they have taken a set. It shouldn't effect how they function assuming they are tightened appropriately but it does seem odd...
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Old 03-05-2019, 07:34 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UncleBad View Post
Original concern was that my TW was over 1000 pounds and thought I needed new bars. Turns out the ones I had all along are correct.

New issue is why would they bend when they are not supposed to?

I have the bigger 2 1/2 inch shank for the Blue Ox and I believe the stock receiver on the F250 is up to the job as well. I have never had any sway or control concerns with the setup of fact it tows very well. Only concern now is the bent bars.

I will contact Blue Ox.
The bars should ONLY bend when under tension, the BO is not up to the task.
The KR's long WB and suspension are most likely the issue...how much weight are you attempting to move?

With our rig these are the weights we move.
2500 '06 Suburban, '03 25' Classic. combined weight loaded...15980

1200lb TW with 1000lb WD bars
560 to the FA
160 to the AS
720 moved

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Old 03-05-2019, 07:51 AM   #8
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I will get to scales when I can to confirm how much is being moved. I also have a HaulGuage coming which should give me additional data.

I won’t jump to the conclusion just yet that the BO isn’t up to the task. Many many other folks are using them in similar situations and I have not had any towing issues.
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Old 03-05-2019, 10:16 AM   #9
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Without knowing the weights it could just be you were applying more WD than the bars could handle.

I would...
Get the TV & AS as level as possible.
Weigh the TV alone and note the FA weight.
Weigh the TV & AS without WD set and note FA weight.
Set WD and weigh again...it may take several weights with different WD settings to get the proper FA weight returned.
When done, slightly nose down...ok AS Butt low...no.

Our rig tows fine with FA 100lb light.

Bob
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Old 03-05-2019, 12:16 PM   #10
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The bars are springs - they are designed to move 1500#s and have additional flex to control sway.

Something is wrong and needs to be corrected.

1) history - how did the lash up get used? Chain link setting? Towing events and excursions? Rough or off road use? Picture of hitch installed?

2) inspect - physical damage to bars? Physical distortion of the A-frame? Weight of tongue? Weight of all axles when loaded for travel? Weights of axles when not hitched?

3) discuss - contact Blue Ox and ask for an engineer or a customer service supervisor. They may be able to help with the determination of why your bars are permanently deformed. It is possible they were incorrectly manufactured. They should have a better understanding of how the BOSP controls heavy loads and what you should expect.

The BOSP with 1500 # bars should be more than capable of handling any properly biased Airstream trailer. Something is not configured or being used in a manor consistent with what is needed for your success.

Good luck with your investigation. Pat
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Old 03-05-2019, 12:31 PM   #11
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I had the 1000# bars on my BO SwayPro with my last 2 25' AS's, and the system worked very well. Like you, I went up to the 1500# bars with my 2017', 28' AS FC, even though the AS dealer in Portland tried to convince me the 1000# bars would work fine; I challenged him to show me the tongue weight, and when it showed a little over 1100 pounds, he was surprised but gave me the 1500# bars. They were stiff at first, but I noticed they began to show a slight bend after a couple trips; they preform very well. Note, I have BO set up with 4.5 links showing, and for my F250 6.7D, 4x4 KR model, this works fine for our situation. I carry around 400-450 lbs in the bed with the generator, bbq, propane fire pit, 20# propane bottle, camp gear, plus trifold cover. I don't carry firewood (50lbs) anymore due to the mid summer bans on campfires in the NW...
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Old 03-05-2019, 01:15 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gypsydad View Post
I had the 1000# bars on my BO SwayPro with my last 2 25' AS's, and the system worked very well. Like you, I went up to the 1500# bars with my 2017', 28' AS FC, even though the AS dealer in Portland tried to convince me the 1000# bars would work fine; I challenged him to show me the tongue weight, and when it showed a little over 1100 pounds, he was surprised but gave me the 1500# bars. They were stiff at first, but I noticed they began to show a slight bend after a couple trips; they preform very well. Note, I have BO set up with 4.5 links showing, and for my F250 6.7D, 4x4 KR model, this works fine for our situation. I carry around 400-450 lbs in the bed with the generator, bbq, propane fire pit, 20# propane bottle, camp gear, plus trifold cover. I don't carry firewood (50lbs) anymore due to the mid summer bans on campfires in the NW...

1000lb WD bar's can work very well...depends on how efficient your lash up is.
It's not tongue weight alone. 🤔

Bob
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Old 03-05-2019, 03:12 PM   #13
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Several thoughts: Spring bars are not all created equal. I have seen 1,000 bars break, now I read where they will bend to deformity. The old rule of thumb was tension them up until they are bent 4-5 inches for best ride/sway control. If they fail that is metallurgy or heat treatment fault during manufacture. Yes, double bar systems do contribute some sway control benefit. If you want a softer ride lower them some (do that incrementally). The more tension you release the less weight you will distribute to the TV/TT. So use caution. I stated in an earlier post that it would be wise to test different setting on the road before you plan a trip. Remember, the sway bars contribute to the support of the TV/TT overall system and therefore, you want them in the do their share. Too much tension is more wear ant tear on the rig, too little tension and the bars contribute nothing.
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Old 03-05-2019, 08:41 PM   #14
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Blue Ox SwayPro 1000 vs 1500 lbs spring bars

Awesome discussion here - thanks all!

I do plan on getting to scales to get data but that will have to wait. I have the HaulGuage coming tomorrow so that should also give me some data, but I think that nothing can replace a trip to the scales.

In the meantime the rig does very well and I don’t have sway or other towability issues.

I have also reached out to Blue Ox.
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Old 03-05-2019, 10:57 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n2916s View Post
They do bend, that is how they work. What is unusual is that they have taken a set.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gypsydad View Post
They were stiff at first, but I noticed they began to show a slight bend after a couple trips; they preform very well.
IMO, this discussion is misdirected.

Needing to use 1500lb bars on a 25' AS...
Bending WD bars to the point of non-elastic deformation (not returning back to original shape) with HD rigs...

This should be a clue that there is WAY too much WD tension being applied. An articulated vehicle needs to articulate. That is why we use a hitch. Not just side to side, but up and down as we traverse irregularities in the road. A hitches job is first and foremost to articulate! Building a solid span via 1500lb bars on a welterweight AS is a surefire way to doing it wrong.

As the old saying goes - something's gotta give.

An HD truck chassis, is not going to give. Your WD bars should give, but using beefy solid steel... The poor AS tongue surely is taking a ton of stress and a beating.

Relying completely on FALR for stability misses the point. Use LESS FALR, and utilize other methods for increasing the margin of stability such as:

1) Keep tow ball as close to the rear bumper (rear axle) as possible
2) Keep 10-15% tongue weight. Store less things behind the rear axle of the trailer
3) TV may actually need more weight in the bed
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Old 03-06-2019, 06:54 AM   #16
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Blue Ox SwayPro 1000 vs 1500 lbs spring bars

Good points and a reminder that a visit to the scales and all data points should be taken into account to find your correct setup - not just one. Keep learning.

Things I have learned:

Bent bars - In the past I have tried a range of different settings. I have used 8, 9 and 10 links. I have moved cargo around, etc. Seems like the one time I used 10 links may have been too much WD and deformed the bars.

Right after our original purchase I forced my dealer to replace the original shank they provided. It was a 2 inch shank and they used a sizing collar to make it work in the 2 1/2 inch receiver on the F250. I am not a fan of those collars and switched to the 2 1/2 shank.

I am glad I did - Blue Ox has since informed me that the smaller 2 inch shank should only be used with bars up to 1000 pounds. The dealer had sent us home on our first trip with the 2 inch shank, sizing collar and 1500 bars (they thought they were 1000).

At the time I did not know any better. Now I do.

I now know:
- My TW is 1200 (thanks to Sherline TW scale)
- I have the correct shank - 2 1/2 inch to correctly fit my receiver
- The shank is correct for WD bars up to 2000 pounds
- My 1500 pound bars on a 27FBQ with a dry TW of around 1200, should be correct for the weight ranges I should be towing.

I hope to keep learning more through these forums, experience and new toys (HaulGuage comes today!)

HaulGauge Bluetooth OBD2 Scale for Tongue Weight, Weight Distribution Hitch, Pin Weight, Payload, and Gross Combined Vehicle Weight with App for iPhone and Android https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DQ44JFB..._xg9FCbF6P0BAT

So - thanks again to everyone for your responses. It helps us all to keep learning and perfecting, and that’s my goal.
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Old 03-06-2019, 07:13 AM   #17
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Before taking delivery of our 28 ft. Airstream I quizzed the dealer, e-Trailer, and Blue Ox as to what size bars to get. They all said 1000 lb. bars, despite hitch weight likely slightly over that.
Ended up with 1000 lb. bars, 2½" stinger, and the chains at the same position the dealer originally set it at. I marked the links with paint so I would always put them back in the same spot. Seventh link from the end of the chain, tenth link from the bar's u-bolt. So far so good. No sway, no bent bars. Your mileage may vary.
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Old 03-06-2019, 12:23 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baby Zeppelin View Post
Before taking delivery of our 28 ft. Airstream I quizzed the dealer, e-Trailer, and Blue Ox as to what size bars to get. They all said 1000 lb. bars, despite hitch weight likely slightly over that.
Ended up with 1000 lb. bars, 2½" stinger, and the chains at the same position the dealer originally set it at. I marked the links with paint so I would always put them back in the same spot. Seventh link from the end of the chain, tenth link from the bar's u-bolt. So far so good. No sway, no bent bars. Your mileage may vary.
I am pretty sure your 28' AS TW is over 1000lbs....check it on the scales- likely 1100 or more even. Glad your 1000# bars seem to be working. for you, but I went with Blue Ox recommendations. I spoke with 2 different technical folks at Blue Ox on my 28' and 1000 vs 1500 lb bars; they both advised to get the 1500lb bars above 1000lbs tong weight… They also advised me that it should be 3.5 links showing, but to adjust it to 3.5, it felt too stiff; I started out with 5.5 links showing, and ended up going to 4.5 links which feels best on my set up.
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Old 03-06-2019, 01:04 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UncleBad View Post
Good points and a reminder that a visit to the scales and all data points should be taken into account to find your correct setup - not just one. Keep learning.

Things I have learned:

Bent bars - In the past I have tried a range of different settings. I have used 8, 9 and 10 links. I have moved cargo around, etc. Seems like the one time I used 10 links may have been too much WD and deformed the bars.

Right after our original purchase I forced my dealer to replace the original shank they provided. It was a 2 inch shank and they used a sizing collar to make it work in the 2 1/2 inch receiver on the F250. I am not a fan of those collars and switched to the 2 1/2 shank.

I am glad I did - Blue Ox has since informed me that the smaller 2 inch shank should only be used with bars up to 1000 pounds. The dealer had sent us home on our first trip with the 2 inch shank, sizing collar and 1500 bars (they thought they were 1000).

At the time I did not know any better. Now I do.

I now know:
- My TW is 1200 (thanks to Sherline TW scale)
- I have the correct shank - 2 1/2 inch to correctly fit my receiver
- The shank is correct for WD bars up to 2000 pounds
- My 1500 pound bars on a 27FBQ with a dry TW of around 1200, should be correct for the weight ranges I should be towing.

I hope to keep learning more through these forums, experience and new toys (HaulGuage comes today!)

HaulGauge Bluetooth OBD2 Scale for Tongue Weight, Weight Distribution Hitch, Pin Weight, Payload, and Gross Combined Vehicle Weight with App for iPhone and Android https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DQ44JFB..._xg9FCbF6P0BAT

So - thanks again to everyone for your responses. It helps us all to keep learning and perfecting, and that’s my goal.
Sounds like your set up pretty good! Note, not sure the comment about the 2" vs 2.5" shank however...I use the sleeve with no issues. BO said no safety issues using the sleeve. They also did confirm today recommendation of using the 1500lb bars with tongue weights above 1000lbs. Some bow is typical when set up properly.
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Old 03-06-2019, 03:10 PM   #20
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Bent bars could occur from one deep dip. I have seen a hitch head break where the bars clipped in from a trip over a curb and gutter. It was not with a BO or Airstream though.
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