Blue Ox SwayPro 1000 vs 1500 lbs spring bars

[Kalashnikov]

Originally Posted by gypsydad

Agree; As for EZ Lift, I had one that came with AS #2 (25' Safari) one of the sway bar twisted while backing which is why I moved to the BO the first time...all the dealer had in stock was BO. Since then, have purchased 3 new ones with last 3 AS's. No complaints. Not sure but I mentioned it, but I also got an 18" Craftsman 3/4" drive braker bar with 1" socket on Amazon...makes loading/unloading much easier when there is a bit of tension due to angle of TV when parking....works great.

My Blue Ox came with a free 3/4" breaker bar! I had just bought one from Lowes (Craftsman), was $60. I was happy to return it, the Blue Ox version is very sturdy. I have no idea why the decided to throw that in - it also came with their cheesy adjustment tool.


But that's a good idea to loosen things a little when parking.

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by Kalashnikov

My Blue Ox came with a free 3/4" breaker bar! I had just bought one from Lowes (Craftsman), was $60. I was happy to return it, the Blue Ox version is very sturdy. I have no idea why the decided to throw that in - it also came with their cheesy adjustment tool.


But that's a good idea to loosen things a little when parking.

Thats great if they are including it now...just don't leave it on your bumper after securing the swaybars...I did that up in Mt. Rainier on way out after adjusting the tension on level ground...wife and i both heard a "clank" and felt a small bump when we pulled out...didn't think it was the wrench until we stopped next afternoon...Good thing I also carry that crappy "wrench" in my toolkit as backup. Anyway,$59 bucks for first one in June; $59 bucks for replacement in July!

[AirMiles]

My Blue Ox performed best when following Andy Thompson's recommendations: https://www.canamrv.ca/blog/post/hit...sion-bars-441/ To follow these recommendations requires heavy bars with lots of weight distribution. When not following Andy's recommendations, I would get a very uncomfortable push/pull from passing vehicles. If you feel push/pull from passing vehicles, try tightening up the bars by another link. Finding the right amount of weight distribution is the result of trial and error. Don't be afraid to try full FALR - you may find out that its the best Blue Ox setting for your rig.

[pteck]

I greatly respect Andy and CanAM. Their recommendations are almost always spot on, including in this case.

It is important however to understand their recommendation against one's application.

Full FALR creates tremendous forces. Stability is one thing, but so is structural integrity of the tow vehicle, Airstream. It is even alluded to in the article with the need to get creative in reinforcing hitches and such. It's no wonder SAE, whom has responsibility for all variables including towing stability and durability of structures generally recommends 1/2 FALR. Versus Andy whom here is primarily concerned with stability.

Then we talk about long wheelbase HD trucks. Those kind of forces are extreme Airstream bending forces. If one ever traverses a dip, gutter, etc., with the groans you hear from your WD hitch, and you may want to think about the extreme torsion forces acting upon your Airstream. Sure wouldn't want this type of damage to occur - http://www.airforums.com/forums/f44/...ge-175039.html

[Kalashnikov]

Originally Posted by pteck

I greatly respect Andy and CanAM. Their recommendations are almost always spot on, including in this case.

It is important however to understand their recommendation against one's application.

Full FALR creates tremendous forces. Stability is one thing, but so is structural integrity of the tow vehicle, Airstream. It is even alluded to in the article with the need to get creative in reinforcing hitches and such. It's no wonder SAE, whom has responsibility for all variables including towing stability and durability of structures generally recommends 1/2 FALR. Versus Andy whom here is primarily concerned with stability.

Then we talk about long wheelbase HD trucks. Those kind of forces are extreme Airstream bending forces. If one ever traverses a dip, gutter, etc., with the groans you hear from your WD hitch, and you may want to think about the extreme torsion forces acting upon your Airstream. Sure wouldn't want this type of damage to occur - http://www.airforums.com/forums/f44/...ge-175039.html

That thread isn't saying what you think it's saying - quite the opposite:
- Many people reported towing with 1400lb bars for thousands of miles (60k plus) with no issues
- That stress buckling seems to be isolated to FB models with a hatch in the front (RB models have the hatch in the rear)
- Some brand new 2020 trailers already had the buckling upon delivery, despite being transferred to the dealer on a flat bed


It is a design flaw.

[pteck]

Originally Posted by Kalashnikov

That thread isn't saying what you think it's saying - quite the opposite:
- Many people reported towing with 1400lb bars for thousands of miles (60k plus) with no issues
- That stress buckling seems to be isolated to FB models with a hatch in the front (RB models have the hatch in the rear)
- Some brand new 2020 trailers already had the buckling upon delivery, despite being transferred to the dealer on a flat bed


It is a design flaw.

Let me ask...

Is bending of tow vehicle receivers without reinforcement a design flaw as well?

As with everything, it's a confluence of factors. To overly focus in on one often misses considerations elsewhere.

As an engineer of complex systems, one thing I can always count on is end users mis-using system in ways it's not intended.

[Kalashnikov]

Returned from my first big trip with the Blue Ox & 1500 bars, very pleased so far! Did about 600 miles.

- TV = Tundra Long bed (164" wheel base)
- Stock tires, 65psi
- Trailer mostly empty
- Bars set to 5.5 links showing (bars slightly bent, this is a very modest tension)
- Tow speed 65 mph most of the time, 70 part of the time, 75 a few times
- Encountered some very bumpy roads due to construction, some dips, some humps
- Yet, no popped rivets or frame buckling

I'm very pleased with this unit! It imposes minimal tongue weight compared to other hitches, don't need to remove anything when backing up, it's easy to set up and tear down, no grease anywhere on the outside (except the ball), totally quiet, no sway/shimmies/shakes whatsoever despite constant stream of big rigs, reasonable price.

[jeffmc306]

Kalashnikov, congratulations on a successful maiden voyage! It's a good feeling to have all that FUD behind you (fear, uncertainty & doubt).

Going forward, keep those trunnions and hitch ball greased and you'll get years of service from the hitch.

-Jeff

[GettinAway]

Well, I have the BO Swaypro, but I am not pulling with a 3/4 ton, and I only have a 25’ trailer. I don’t like thread drift, but don’t want to start another thread on such a simple question.
I have the 1,000 bars for my BO. My 25 is a FB, so I assume I’m near 1,000 lbs tongue weight. Towing now (2,000 miles so far) my trailer is level, but there is some sag to the 1/2 ton Tundra. It pulls fine (I’ve not been to the scales yet) I have less sway, very minimal than I did pulling a 23FB with an EZ Lift. I do feel some impact from cars or small trucks going by me at 80+mph. I hardly feel any sway from big trucks coming by. I run 65 to 68 all day long. I’m thinking of going up a link to tighter setting on my bars. I think I’m at 7 now from the end. I just don’t want to bring up the nose of the trailer. I know I need to get to the scales, but haven’t had (taken) the time.
Other option was to add airbags to rear of Tundra, but I don’t want to mask what’s really going on just to improve the look of the set up. It doesn’t bother me to have a little sag in the rear of the Tundra. I just use the knob to lower the headlight down a bit.
Thoughts?

[Downhill502]

Originally Posted by GettinAway

Well, I have the BO Swaypro, but I am not pulling with a 3/4 ton, and I only have a 25’ trailer. I don’t like thread drift, but don’t want to start another thread on such a simple question.
I have the 1,000 bars for my BO. My 25 is a FB, so I assume I’m near 1,000 lbs tongue weight. Towing now (2,000 miles so far) my trailer is level, but there is some sag to the 1/2 ton Tundra. It pulls fine (I’ve not been to the scales yet) I have less sway, very minimal than I did pulling a 23FB with an EZ Lift. I do feel some impact from cars or small trucks going by me at 80+mph. I hardly feel any sway from big trucks coming by. I run 65 to 68 all day long. I’m thinking of going up a link to tighter setting on my bars. I think I’m at 7 now from the end. I just don’t want to bring up the nose of the trailer. I know I need to get to the scales, but haven’t had (taken) the time.
Other option was to add airbags to rear of Tundra, but I don’t want to mask what’s really going on just to improve the look of the set up. It doesn’t bother me to have a little sag in the rear of the Tundra. I just use the knob to lower the headlight down a bit.
Thoughts?

Check the manual...... 9th link is the starting point in the manual. You may need to go one hole lower on your drop shank then add more tension to your WD bars. A little sag in the rear is perfectly fine as you do need weight over the rear axle. You may find that tightening just one link is all you need.

[ROBERT CROSS]

GettinAway,
You are correct with the add-on bags...they only level, do nothing for WD.
TW will get you in the ball park when choosing the rating for your WD bars, but it's the weight you need to MOVE when hitched that is the key number.
Example...in our case, our TW is 1200lb un-hitched on a tongue scale. The receiver weight hitched that needs to be moved is 860lb, our 1000lb do just fine.

Getting the loaded AS level with WD set is the goal.
Have you used the 'wheelhouse measurements' to set the WD? That has worked well for us. I usually only hit the scales when I know the loading has changed considerably. A bit AS nose down is better than high, with correct WD numbers.
From eTrailer....
"If you are unable to achieve level even with an adjustable ball mount, it is better for the trailer to be slightly nose down so long as the tongue weight capacity of the hitch and vehicle is not exceeded. If a trailer is nose up too much, the tongue weight is low enough that the trailer may begin to sway.


Good Luck...

Bob
🇺🇸

[Kalashnikov]

Originally Posted by Downhill502

Check the manual...... 9th link is the starting point in the manual. You may need to go one hole lower on your drop shank then add more tension to your WD bars. A little sag in the rear is perfectly fine as you do need weight over the rear axle. You may find that tightening just one link is all you need.
Attachment 361854

This is exactly what I thought as well. Drop the ball one hole and then adjust the tension accordingly.

I have zero sag on my Tundra and the trailer is also level. I'll post a pic of my setup next time I'm hitched up.

[panamerican]

Originally Posted by UncleBad

I have the 1000 pound bars currently, included with the WD hitch when we purchased the AS. However with full propane, full water and other stuff I am at about 1200 pounds TW so I purchased the 1500 bars after talking to etrailer.com. To move to the 1500 pound bars you must also have the 2 1/2 inch hitch version, which I have.

I just received the 1500 pound bars and don't see a visual difference, other than a slight bend in the older 1000 pound bars. I guess I expected thicker bars?

I have an email into etrailer.com customer support with this question as well.

I would guess someone else out there has both 1000 and 1500 pound bars, is there a visual difference?

With a 3/4 ton truck, I use 600lb bars, I get plenty of bend and good weight distribution and sway. With the larger trailer I use 1000' bars. For anything 28' or shorter (depending on trailer config), more times than not the largest bar you need with a 3/4 or larger truck is 800lb bars.

I tested bars from 600 to 1200 and found that with 3/4 ton, less bar is actually more FWIW.

The term is called over-hitching. Lots of great info on this forum about over-hitching.

[GettinAway]

Check the manual...... 9th link is the starting point in the manual. You may need to go one hole lower on your drop shank then add more tension to your WD bars. A little sag in the rear is perfectly fine as you do need weight over the rear axle. You may find that tightening just one link is all you need. ]

CORRECTION.. I am 10th from the end, 7th from the bar. Sorry about that. The hitch is new to me. I didn’t keep my facts straight. (Poor memory) Seems to be happening more and more.

[GettinAway]

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

GettinAway,

You are correct with the add-on bags...they only level, do nothing for W.



Getting the loaded AS level with WD set is the goal.

Have you used the to set the WD? That has worked well for us. I usually only hit the scales when I know the loading has changed considerably. A bit AS nose down is better than high, with correct WD numbers.

From eTrailer....

"If you are unable to achieve level even with an adjustable ball mount, it is better for the trailer to be slightly nose down so long as the tongue weight capacity of the hitch and vehicle is not exceeded. If a trailer is nose up too much, the tongue weight is low enough that the trailer may begin to sway.





Good Luck...



Bob

[emoji631]

We used the measurements when we were setting up the BO at the AS dealer in Chicago. It’s the only hitch they sell, and they are very familiar with it. They then marked the correct link for me, but that was with the trailer pretty empty. I did have the bed of the truck loaded down though. I will try one more link down towards the bar when we move Friday from St Augustine FL to down towards Orlando. If it lifts the front of the trailer at all, I’ll go back up a link. It’s been pulling very well.
I have max PSI in the GYEs also. The dealer insisted they need to be kept at max. I had the exact same tires on my 23FB and had decreased pressure down to 60#. So far, no drawers, doors, rivets etc have moved. (2,000 miles) only a few pillows have even fallen off the seats. It seems like the BO is more flexible on dips than my EZ Hitch was. Just a feeling, no data. Such a tiny amount of sway I’m really impressed with BO so far.

[GettinAway]

Originally Posted by Kalashnikov

This is exactly what I thought as well. Drop the ball one hole and then adjust the tension accordingly.



I have zero sag on my Tundra and the trailer is also level. I'll post a pic of my setup next time I'm hitched up.

I do have the sag in my Tundra, but I failed to mention that I added Bilstein shocks a years ago. They also brought the front end up about 1.5”. I think I’d be level now, if the front end hadn’t been raised. I’m level without the AS. Most important the AS is level. Correct?
Thx

[ROBERT CROSS]

GaW

You could try 70 in the GYE's I thing you'd be fine. Are they the D or E rated.

Bob
🇺🇸

[GettinAway]

They are the E rated GYEs.

After re-reading the helpful suggestions here. It’s got me wondering if maybe I shouldn’t go down one hole on the drop bar? Trying to mentally go through what will happen. It would seem like, at first glance to eliminate the sag from the Tundra. Does it also drop the nose of the AS? Would I then be able to increase the weight on the front axle by going to a higher link on the chains? Right now it’s on the highest position with the drop bar shaft pointed down. It would be easy to drop it down to the next hole.

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by GettinAway

They are the E rated GYEs.

After re-reading the helpful suggestions here. It’s got me wondering if maybe I shouldn’t go down one hole on the drop bar? Trying to mentally go through what will happen. It would seem like, at first glance to eliminate the sag from the Tundra. Does it also drop the nose of the AS? Would I then be able to increase the weight on the front axle by going to a higher link on the chains? Right now it’s on the highest position with the drop bar shaft pointed down. It would be easy to drop it down to the next hole.

I don't know where you are with your drop bar, but hitch/trailer should be level when connected. When you install the WDH sway bars, your front fender should be within 1/2" of when not connected. Thats how I was taught, and have been working to for 17 years now... 3.5 chain links showing with the BO is what they recommend also..works for me!

[GettinAway]

Trailer is perfectly level with the chain on the 10th link. That’s why I’ve just left it alone. I wouldn’t mind eliminating the rear sag (which isn’t much) on the Tundra. I’ll get a picture later today. We are moving so, I’ll be hooked up and fully loaded.
I am thinking of doing the 3” lift to the AS, so that more than likely would result in moving the drop height. I may leave it alone until I do the lift.
Thx