Blue Ox Sway Pro vs. ProPride and others

[SailorSam205]

Originally Posted by rmkrum

Also note that if you have a powered dolly to use with a ProPride, its easy to adapt the 'lot bar' to the power dolly.

Just a FWIW. I looked at a power dolly last year. The manufacturer that I was most interested in, strongly recommended using an adapter that mounted to the a-frame and not connecting at the ball hitch (which was fine with me and my ProPride). By being closer to the trailer axles, there was more down force or TW on the dolly which resulted in more traction to move the trailer. Unfortunately for me, I think that manufacturer is now out of business. I recently went to recheck prices and couldn't find the web site.

[SailorSam205]

Originally Posted by rwsjms7

What about anti sway and WD for the Gen Y?

Well, since all of the non-Hensley design hitches basically just sit on a ball that is put in the receiver of your TV, I suspect you could use any of them. Though seeing that the low end price on the Gen y is at about $500. That is starting to get up there in price.

"The Gen-Y Weight Distribution Torsion Drop Hitch is compatible with almost any existing weight distribution head assembly. This hitch comes in either 2″, 2 1⁄2” or 3″ receiver sizes."

[Rocinante]

If I were shopping for a GenY or an Air Safe, I would just get on the phone and ask them whether their gadget works well with my existing WD hitch.

[slowmover]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

Yes sir, yuppie indeed. And I'd like you to link expert (ie. Automotive design engineers) who say otherwise. All I ever see is your trolling, droning opinion otherwise. My 34 years with an auto manufacturer has proven otherwise.

Your pickup is more stable?

Stops shorter?

Shall we keep going?

Your “proof” isn’t available as it’s non-existent. Your experience, as well.

[BoscoMN]

Has anyone used the ProPride 3P Jacks with the BO Swaypro hitch. My only complaint with my Swaypro is that even jacking up the Ford Expedition and attached Airstream I still have difficulty getting the 9 links on. And that is with a 3/4” breaker bar.

If the ProPride jacks could take the load and the chains don’t hit the Airstream’s frame, the $300 would be well worth it to me. That way I wouldn’t be putting the unusual upward force on the car’s hitch that occurs with jacking up the whole unit.

[DKB_SATX]

Originally Posted by BoscoMN

Has anyone used the ProPride 3P Jacks with the BO Swaypro hitch. My only complaint with my Swaypro is that even jacking up the Ford Expedition and attached Airstream I still have difficulty getting the 9 links on. And that is with a 3/4” breaker bar.

If the ProPride jacks could take the load and the chains don’t hit the Airstream’s frame, the $300 would be well worth it to me. That way I wouldn’t be putting the unusual upward force on the car’s hitch that occurs with jacking up the whole unit.

I wonder if your problem with the chains is related to the starting height of your hitch head, or perhaps the location of the rotating chain latches. I run my BOSP on the 10th link with 1000-lb bars and I'm able to hitch it pretty easily in normal conditions using their crappy "wrench." I have noticed a couple of times if I'm in an odd site (usually where there is a low point between the truck and trailer, where the ground slopes up both fore and aft) it requires a bit more fiddling, and it's sensitive to the truck being parallel to the trailer (e.g. if the nose of the truck is swung a bit to the left, the right chain will be harder to latch.)

[BoscoMN]

Has anyone used the Lippert Straptek winch system? Do you still relieve pressure by raising the tongue before you lower the bars or is it easy/safe to use just the winch system?

[BoscoMN]

Originally Posted by DKB_SATX

I wonder if your problem with the chains is related to the starting height of your hitch head, or perhaps the location of the rotating chain latches. I run my BOSP on the 10th link with 1000-lb bars and I'm able to hitch it pretty easily in normal conditions using their crappy "wrench." I have noticed a couple of times if I'm in an odd site (usually where there is a low point between the truck and trailer, where the ground slopes up both fore and aft) it requires a bit more fiddling, and it's sensitive to the truck being parallel to the trailer (e.g. if the nose of the truck is swung a bit to the left, the right chain will be harder to latch.)

My chains hit the chain latches right at the recommended 90 degrees. I will silicone spray the latches to see if that helps.

I can only get the latch to grab onto the 7th link unless I lift the hitched unit up about 6”. Then I can get 9 links. So it could be related to the angle of the hitch head but I don’t see how that is adjustable. Unless it is caused by the large drop of the car’s rear end when hitched up - maybe 3”.

[rmkrum]

Originally Posted by BoscoMN

Has anyone used the ProPride 3P Jacks with the BO Swaypro hitch. My only complaint with my Swaypro is that even jacking up the Ford Expedition and attached Airstream I still have difficulty getting the 9 links on. And that is with a 3/4” breaker bar.

If the ProPride jacks could take the load and the chains don’t hit the Airstream’s frame, the $300 would be well worth it to me. That way I wouldn’t be putting the unusual upward force on the car’s hitch that occurs with jacking up the whole unit.

The ProPride jacks are easily able to take the full load of a 1400 pound WD bar. You can purchase just the jacks from their website. Sean carries them as spare parts. He also has the ratchet straps if they are your interest. The jacks clamp on to the A-frame and have a shim to help prevent tilting.

Normally the ProPride jacks connect to the end of the WD bar with a flat steel strap on a hook on the side of the jack top body running down to a u-bolt into two holes on the end of the bar. The jack mount base has a 6-8 inch long curved bar built-in to keep the flat steel strap from rubbing on the A-frame when you maneuver.

You might have to adapt them a bit to your situation. The jacks operate with a standard ratchet wrench about 8 inches long, and you do not have to raise the tongue with the tongue jack to get full WD tension, it just takes a bit of cranking on the ratchet wrench, and a tape measure to set the height of the WD jacks equally.

Admittedly, as an "overkill engineer" I'm going to powered WD jacks, but I've used the standard ones on all of our trips to date, and they are not an issue...even for a lazy old phart like me.

[Daquenzer]

I jack up the rear end with the power jack to take tension off the bars, and then use a 20V Delta drill to power up the jacks to the desired height. May have to use the hand one for the last 1 to 1/2 inch. Undoing them is a breeze as well. Just use the 20V drill and release the tension.

[Daquenzer]

Originally Posted by BoscoMN

Has anyone used the Lippert Straptek winch system? Do you still relieve pressure by raising the tongue before you lower the bars or is it easy/safe to use just the winch system?

I think that would be true for just about any system. Don't have to with the towers, but it's far easier.

[DKB_SATX]

Originally Posted by BoscoMN

My chains hit the chain latches right at the recommended 90 degrees. I will silicone spray the latches to see if that helps.

I can only get the latch to grab onto the 7th link unless I lift the hitched unit up about 6”. Then I can get 9 links. So it could be related to the angle of the hitch head but I don’t see how that is adjustable. Unless it is caused by the large drop of the car’s rear end when hitched up - maybe 3”.

Sorry I was unclear and didn't mention one step. After latching the coupler onto the ball I raise the electric jack to its first hint of a limit (I don't keep trying to raise if after the "click"). I'm able to get the 10th link in the notch then, and rotate the latches without undue force on their "wrench."

The BOSP hitch head angle isn't adjustable, I was wondering if it was starting out at the right height. If I started out with the hitch head a notch lower on the adjustable shank I probably wouldn't be able to lift it enough to get the 10th link into the notch. Unhitched, with the trailer level on fairly level pavement, the ball is slightly higher than the coupler.

[KCCO]

Originally Posted by DKB_SATX

I wonder if your problem with the chains is related to the starting height of your hitch head, or perhaps the location of the rotating chain latches. I run my BOSP on the 10th link with 1000-lb bars and I'm able to hitch it pretty easily in normal conditions using their crappy "wrench." I have noticed a couple of times if I'm in an odd site (usually where there is a low point between the truck and trailer, where the ground slopes up both fore and aft) it requires a bit more fiddling, and it's sensitive to the truck being parallel to the trailer (e.g. if the nose of the truck is swung a bit to the left, the right chain will be harder to latch.)

What is the starting height of your hitch head, Level or the one to two inches higher?

I have a sway pro as well, and have found the best handling at 10 links. However it does seem to take a good bit of electric jack use to make it happen.

[BoscoMN]

I have it about 1.5” higher than the level trailer. With the weight of the trailer, the rear of the car drops quite a bit - maybe 4”. With the 10 links I get the Airstream within 1/2” of level - slightly nose high.

[hubcapsquid]

Originally Posted by BoscoMN

Has anyone used the Lippert Straptek winch system? Do you still relieve pressure by raising the tongue before you lower the bars or is it easy/safe to use just the winch system?

Hi--- I have a 1999 Safari 25 towed by 2004 Nissan Titan. Started out nine years ago with Equalizer set-up then tried the Anderson hitch---then discovered the StrapTek system. I like the fact that I can set it up with just a socket and wrench.
I probably have 15,000 miles on it and it works as advertised for me . I also like the fact that it is infinitely adjustable even on the road.I also had a Quickbite coupler installed on trailer and it makes it almost a no-brainer for one person to hook and unhook. For me, this is my best "bang for the buck". Once hooked into the coupler, I raise the jack a bit to take some pressure off the straps and then wind them up.

[RichardBoyd]

Looking to purchase a blue ox Sway pro package for Our 2018 Tommy Bahama, Dry weight 6396, hitch weight 929, towing with a 2019 Ford F150 eco-boost trailer max package. Looking to blue ox owners for some help with a few questions.

1 I’m told that the new wrench has solved quite a few of the problems, according to blue ox personnel on today’s call! Anybody have the new hitch and is this an accurate statement?

2 The Propane gas aluminum cover does it interfere with the clamp on rotating latch Operation during the hitch up or unhitching process?

3 using the above specs of trailer and tow vehicle which distribution bars would be best 1000 or 1500?

Looking forward to your input and appreciate very much, thank you

[RichardBoyd]

Looking to purchase a blue ox Sway pro package for Our 2018 Tommy Bahama, Dry weight 6396, hitch weight 929, towing with a 2019 Ford F150 eco-boost trailer max package. Looking to blue ox owners for some help with a few questions.

1 I’m told that the new wrench has solved quite a few of the problems, according to blue ox personnel on today’s call! Anybody have the new hitch and is this an accurate statement?

2 The Propane gas aluminum cover does it interfere with the clamp on rotating latch Operation during the hitch up or unhitching process?

3 using the above specs of trailer and tow vehicle which distribution bars would be best 1000 or 1500?

Looking forward to your input and appreciate very much, thank you

[John&Vicki]

Seven years with my Blue Ox now and I’m very satisfied. I don’t understand the cause for alarm when unhitching at all. I have plenty of long breaker bars around here but I still use the old primitive bar provided by Blue Ox. Just raise the back of the TV until the pressure is gone and the chain goes limp (you know, limp).

Cheers,
John

[VeloBuckeye]

Originally Posted by RichardBoyd

Looking to purchase a blue ox Sway pro package for Our 2018 Tommy Bahama, Dry weight 6396, hitch weight 929, towing with a 2019 Ford F150 eco-boost trailer max package. Looking to blue ox owners for some help with a few questions.

1 I’m told that the new wrench has solved quite a few of the problems, according to blue ox personnel on today’s call! Anybody have the new hitch and is this an accurate statement?

2 The Propane gas aluminum cover does it interfere with the clamp on rotating latch Operation during the hitch up or unhitching process?

3 using the above specs of trailer and tow vehicle which distribution bars would be best 1000 or 1500?

Looking forward to your input and appreciate very much, thank you

Richard,

I've been using a BO Sway Pro for my previous SOB and my current FC27 and I'm happy with it, but then again most of these better hitches do a fine job and it comes down to cost, preference, referral, etc.

I started with the 1000 lb bars for my AS as the "advertised" tongue weight was 780 lbs. Well I know better and assumed it would be a tad higher once loaded and I was correct - CAT scales put me at around 1000 lbs. I never had issues and had it dialed in pretty well after a couple of trips.

I was lucky to come across a friend who was moving up from the 1500 lb bars, and he has given them to me for a while to try out. I contacted BO customer service and asked for advice regarding which size bars to use when you are pretty much "between" the weight ranges. The response was to give it a try and it would depend on truck type, camper size, camper weight, etc. It may be too harsh on the AS or it may allow a lower link to hang to get the same level of distribution that the 1000 lb bars deliver.

I have some short trips coming up this month and will be able to road test the heavier bars. What I really want to determine is how they affect the ride when tractor trailers pass me (not that it is bad currently). If no noticeable difference, I'll probably just stick with the original 1000 lb bars.

[smsasf]

Originally Posted by RichardBoyd

Looking to purchase a blue ox Sway pro package for Our 2018 Tommy Bahama, Dry weight 6396, hitch weight 929, towing with a 2019 Ford F150 eco-boost trailer max package. Looking to blue ox owners for some help with a few questions.

1 I’m told that the new wrench has solved quite a few of the problems, according to blue ox personnel on today’s call! Anybody have the new hitch and is this an accurate statement?

2 The Propane gas aluminum cover does it interfere with the clamp on rotating latch Operation during the hitch up or unhitching process?

3 using the above specs of trailer and tow vehicle which distribution bars would be best 1000 or 1500?

Looking forward to your input and appreciate very much, thank you

1) The new “wrench” is more or less a breaker bar. Heavy duty and angled to keep your hands clear.
2) The front of the latches are just under the propane bottle cover. You have to remove the cover to latch. Takes 3 extra minutes both ways.
3) My hitch weight, per AS, is 540 lbs. Dealer put me in 750 lb bars, even though BO makes 550 lb bars. BO CS said that was right.