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Old 06-10-2020, 12:24 AM   #1
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Johnson City , Tennessee
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Blue OX hitch install

I had a question about installation of the sway pro. Say for example:
Initial installation shows hitch ball at 25” and coupler height at 17” when the trailer is completely level. I raised the trailer and placed on hitch ball. Then it took an significant strength to place on the 8th chain length to lock sway bars.
There is still some rear axle sag on my truck. What is solution??
1. Should I lower the hitch Ball height?
2. Should I place on 9th chain?

I am confused after watching at least a dozen videos as to what my goal is. Am I supposed to have truck level in rear and also trailer level too?
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Old 06-10-2020, 04:15 AM   #2
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Welcome to the forums.
If the coupler height is 17" to the top of the coupler where the ball is, the top of the ball should be 18", unless your tow vehicle has rear air suspension, in which case the ball height would be 17". 25" is much too high.

How are you measuring ball and coupler height? Ball height should be measured to the top of the ball, and coupler height should be measured to the top of the round part where the ball would go.
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Old 06-10-2020, 06:30 AM   #3
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Welcome!

Regarding your comment about "taking strength to place the 8th chain link to lock the sway bars" is an issue with the BO. And unlocking them can be dangerous when under tension.

To minimize this you would use your power lift to raise the hitch, while attached to your TV, several inches until you have relieved the pressure on the sway bars. That will make it much easier to lock and unlock the hitch.

I might also suggest getting a breaker bar and socket (I can't remember the size) to replace the wrench supplied by BO.

You didn't mention what AS you have. That would help determine the tongue weight which will determine which link in the chain you would use. It would also help to know what size bars you have.

All the best!
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Old 06-10-2020, 08:08 AM   #4
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Johnson City , Tennessee
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You are right. 25” is too high. Problem is, is that I’m afraid when I flip my hitch shank and lower the hitch it might drag. But you are right. I’m going to have to lower hitch ball to meet the leveled trailer coupler (which I measured to be 17.5”).
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Old 06-10-2020, 08:09 AM   #5
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2015 28ft international pulled by 2014 Chevy 1500
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Old 06-10-2020, 08:26 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Navymed_19 View Post
I had a question about installation of the sway pro. Say for example:
Initial installation shows hitch ball at 25” and coupler height at 17” when the trailer is completely level. I raised the trailer and placed on hitch ball. Then it took an significant strength to place on the 8th chain length to lock sway bars.
There is still some rear axle sag on my truck. What is solution??
1. Should I lower the hitch Ball height?
2. Should I place on 9th chain?

I am confused after watching at least a dozen videos as to what my goal is. Am I supposed to have truck level in rear and also trailer level too?
As others indicate, if we understand what you are saying, your ball is way too high. You didn't describe the vehicle or trailer and that would help so we are talking apples to apples.

Still, On level ground, the top of the ball should be about an inch higher than the top of the ball part of the coupler as a beginning point, the final starting point will depend on vehicle suspension design, primarily rear spring rate.

If the provided shank won't let you get to ball low enough, you will have to get a shank with more drop capability. The most common blue ox shank is a 7 hole with a range of 5 1/2 drop and 7 1/2 rise. What shank do you have and how is your ball mount set?

When you don't have the beginning point set close, setting the tension becomes difficult as you described. The set-up geometry will be completely wrong so the system will not perform correctly.

So describe your system or send some photos. edit ok so trailer and truck is a good start! the exact hitch ball top height for the 28 if stock is 17 3/4 so you want your top of ball at 18 3/4 -19 3/4 with tires properly inflated and on level ground.
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Old 06-10-2020, 08:40 AM   #7
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The goal when finished is you want the trailer frame exactly level. the easiest way to confirm is on level ground measure the stabilizer screw rod distance to ground for all four of them. Ideal is for all to match. You also want your truck exactly level too with all your stuff in it. If you don't have it loaded, then you will want your rear 1/4 to 1/2 inch higher than the front. this will get you close. The exact goal can only be determined by running the system through the scales and it depends on the characteristics of the tow vehicle. I'll describe it later if you are going to the scales.
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Old 06-10-2020, 12:13 PM   #8
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Agree with every one on the ball height about 1 inch above the hitch height on level ground.

I did the install on previous Airstream. After several attempts to reach the magical 9th link as suggested in the installation and set up instructions, and almost breaking my hand, I called Blue Ox and they suggested I needed to raise truck higher with the jack. I still could not achieve 9 links. I settled on 7 links. Blue Ox agreed I should visit a local camper sales place that was a Blue Ox dealer to ensure I hadn't missed something. They looked everything over and said it looked perfect to them, truck and trailer were level, and it towed great also. Moral to story: As long as you are loading the bars and getting them to deflect is all you need. No need to break your hand!! The truck is always going to "sag" a little in the rear. Take the measurements at the front wheel wells to get back to within about 1/4 to 1/2 of the unhitched measurement. You can always visit the scales to determine your weight distribution and adjust.
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Old 06-10-2020, 12:36 PM   #9
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You must weigh the rig to tune it. There are some who can drive the rig, tweak the adjustment and get it right by feel. The rest of us need instrument feedback to get it dialed in correctly.

First - are you using a long breaker bar and 1" six point socket (see note above) or the BO OEM flat wrench with a cheater pipe to adjust the chain position on the rotators? Harbor Freight sells a 24" breaker bar. It helps a lot. Throw the OEM flat bar wrench in your junk drawer.

Second - as suggested, lift the trailer with the tongue jack while attached to the truck. Do same to release the bars. Much safer operation that way. Never release the bars while on significant load.

Third - verify that the receiver is not flexing such that the weight is not transfering. You may need a stronger receiver.

Good luck with the tune. Pat

Edit - the cast BO hitch shank may need to be replaced. Shortening the ball to bumper distance to reduce overhang is a good mod. Can't move the pin hole on the cast OEM shank. Buy a solid steel shank with the right drop or rise and the shortest pin to hitch connection. Drill new hole for the pin to move ball to closest position possible. Check that your trailer will not hit tow vehicle with the new position. A solid shank drop can be cut shorter if it is too long.
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Old 06-10-2020, 03:39 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbcubed53 View Post
Agree with every one on the ball height about 1 inch above the hitch height on level ground.

I did the install on previous Airstream. After several attempts to reach the magical 9th link as suggested in the installation and set up instructions, and almost breaking my hand, I called Blue Ox and they suggested I needed to raise truck higher with the jack. I still could not achieve 9 links. I settled on 7 links. Blue Ox agreed I should visit a local camper sales place that was a Blue Ox dealer to ensure I hadn't missed something.
bbcubed53, interesting. I just got off phone with BO myself 1 hour ago. Bought my first AS 20’ one week ago at the AS just west of Greensboro. That dealer suggested BO SwayPro and I bought. Did not feel right driving home. Started checking. They had top of hitch ball at about 22 3/4”, whereas top of inside of coupler is 18 3/4”, so 3-4” too high. Also, when the tech had me put on tension bars he had me counting the 9 links up from bottom, as opposed to 9 links down from top as noted in the BO manual. and the reason that was even very hard was because he did not have coupler locked to hitch ball and had it sitting just a hair off the ball. The BO manual says start with 9th link and if you might need to go to 10th or 11th. I told them, based on what I knew (from the way dealer was showing) there was no way that I could ever do the 10th or 11th because the 9th was hard enough. That is when BO said lock the coupler and hitch ball and jack up the trailer so that the connect starts to apex and that will slope the trailer down to back and reduce distance from latch connection to 10th chain length down. I will do this in next day or so and go back to CAT scale once again now that I have run the numbers with link 8 and 9 and still need to distribute a few more pounds to the front end. I sent dealer (sales manager and salesman) an email on the subject last week and no response, so I guess “all sales are final”. Suggested to BO that they might need to have their sales rep go back to the dealer and retrain them.
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Old 06-10-2020, 04:39 PM   #11
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Keep in mind that the 9 link guideline, like the starting ball height of 1 inch above the trailer hitch ball height is just a guideline. It works as a starting point but the final setting depends on the bar strength, trailer tongue weight and the particular vehicle dimensions. Lighter trailers may require 7 or 8 links. Shorter wheelbases and longer lengths to the rear axle will also require fewer links. So don't get too hung up on the 9 link guideline.
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Old 06-10-2020, 06:10 PM   #12
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Blue Ox hitch.

I tow a 2018 International 28ft with a 2018 Silverado. I use the 1500 lb. bars on my blue ox and have the chains in the seventh link. My ball height is 19 inches when unhooked and the trailer coupler height is 17 3/4 inches. The long side of the hitch shank is down and I have never had any problem with it dragging in over 12,000 miles of towing. I also very seldom have to use any wrench to hook or unhook the chains.
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Old 06-11-2020, 11:23 AM   #13
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Hi,

I do not like my Blue Ox. (Sounds like I could go Dr. Suess with this! )

I had an Equal-i-zer with a previous RV and and found a new/used Blue Ox for cheap so tried it. What a mistake!

Complaints:

POOR documentation and phone CS. Nowhere does it say you have to lift trailer MUCH higher than you'd imagine if you want to take all the tension off the chains. Guy on phone was less than interested than helping me figuring it was self explanatory... I learned the hard way! Thanks BO!

Comes with only one side instead of left and right so one side will be VERY close to the propane tank cowling when installed properly. I have a big dent on mine to prove it!

Dangerous! IF you release the clip with tension on the chains pray you don't have your hand nearby! Impossible to tell how much tension and even a little causes a nice medieval chain whip! You may have to have your Airstream jacked up VERY high to remove chains with no tension!

Does NOT perform any better and I'd say WORSE than an Equal-i-zer. I had my set up as good as possible and had sway..

The idea of counting chain links to adjust is a joke! Most get confused and don't know which end to count from. 9 or 8 or 7 or just as tight as you can...nonsense!

I think the only people who would like the Blue Ox are those who have not used others.....

I'm sorry to be provocative but feel strongly these are poor hitches! I just spent $700 to get a new Equal-i-zer instead of continuing with the BO.

Problem is it's very difficult to get one install to see how it works and wont be the same on your coach. Even if you are shown how it will perform different on yours. I was just at a park and a guy with same Airstream came over who loved his BO and helped with mine. He struggled with it even after confirming mine set up properly....BTW I noticed he left his hitched up the entire week...


I've used both Equal-i-zer and Blue Ox and there is NO comparison for ease and safety and performance!

Sorry again to ruffle feathers.... Please don't take offense if you're a BO fan. Just my experience and opinion.

Trav
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Old 06-11-2020, 12:12 PM   #14
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Although I use a Blue Ox I won't defend the disadvantages. The chain landing is on the mount center line so properly installed they will be equidistant. For low yaw angles, the Blue Ox does not provide much damping so your rig won't be as free of minor movement as with an Equalizer , Reese, Pro Pride or Hensley. If you drive white knuckle, the Blue Ox is not for you. But small displacements are not the same as sway, which is back and forth periodicity along with amplitude amplification.
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Old 06-11-2020, 06:07 PM   #15
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BTW

I checked and my Equal-I-Zer only cost me $646.

They are having a 10% off sale with free shipping and either don't charge tax or roll it into the price.

Guy on the phone was very patient in contrast with Blue Ox. I was using the tool to determine which to get wrong and he took time to explain it an then offered the discount.

Anyways...if you're on the fence... Give them a call.

Trav
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Old 06-11-2020, 07:23 PM   #16
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Thank you all for the advice. So I was given a 9 hole shank hitch. Ended up flipping it and cutting the bottom. Hitch ball measured perfectly at 19”. When attaching to coupler I had jacked up hitch almost to the point of lifting all my rear truck tires. Placed in the “9th chain” and lowered trailer.
Everything turned out perfect.
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Old 06-11-2020, 07:59 PM   #17
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sweet! I'm surprised you had to cut the bottom of the shank. I have the 9 hole, ball is on the 8th and 6t, my trailer scrapes long before the shank will. I have a spare 7 hole if anyone wants it, let me know.
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Old 06-11-2020, 08:45 PM   #18
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I agree the BO documentation is lacking and even in error. Two location they reference turning the latch clockwise to lock instead of the correct counterclockwise. And in another location they make refernce to tension of the bars before they actual chains and latches a4e in place. There is no tension per se until the system is locked and loaded. And they do not make the reference to locking coupler on the ball and jacking it up. I told them on the phone that putting the 9th link into the slot was lready hard and no way for me to do the 10th or 11th. That is when the lady mentioned about jacking the trailer way up to create an apex and slot the trailer tongue back. Anyway, I have it now, from the dealer, amd will try to make do.
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Old 06-11-2020, 11:49 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BayouBiker View Post
sweet! I'm surprised you had to cut the bottom of the shank. I have the 9 hole, ball is on the 8th and 6t, my trailer scrapes long before the shank will. I have a spare 7 hole if anyone wants it, let me know.
Would love to compare it if I could get it. I have a rigged set up..
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Old 06-12-2020, 01:27 AM   #20
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With our new 25' FC FBT my 100# wife and I can connect/disconnect the BO like a NASCAR pit crew. We use a 24" breaker bar and work as a team. The chains are marked with a zip tie at the correct link so counting is not required. After raising the truck/tongue just enough to remove some, but not all, of the tension, she drops the chain on, pulls and locks. When disconnecting I pull the locking pin and she releases the chain.
This came with about with the two of us deciding that, as rookies, we both needed to know how to connect/disconnect the BO in the event one of us is unable to. And after the first time disconnecting and losing control of the wrench we needed the confidence that either one of us could do the job.
We spent a Saturday morning going over and over setting up and breaking down, until we both felt comfortable with the BO. Using notes gained from this forum it went fairly well.

We have a 2006 Silverado 1/2 ton Crew Cab with the max trailering package. Loaded tongue weight is 985# (measured with a tongue scale and 2/3 FW tank), and the BO has 1000# bars. After experimenting with different links, adjusting our load, and a visit to the scales to verify, we marked the chains and have made several trips without too many "white knuckle" moments.
Yes we're still learning and gaining experience with all the nuances of towing, but the Blue Ox serves us well with our combination.
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