Anyone have Blue Ox we bars hit ground

[MOS]

Have a 19 Caravel with blue ox wd hitch .
The hitches bar u bolts hit the ground at small inclines and dips.

Is this a common issue with the airstream being so low and the bar u bolts ?

Any fix ?
Mike

[LBelle]

Yes (and) No...we have a Blue Ox with our 19' Bambi International (2015) and the u-bolts do hit the road/ground "occaisionally". For us it is usually (only) when we are entering/exiting some service stations and getting on/off ferries (during low tides etc.)
I would suggest double checking your hitch set-up: is the ball high enough? Is the hitch level? do you have the bars "tight enough"? I've tweeked or adjusted all of those variables and now, after nearly ten years, seldom have a problem. When it does happen it sounds BAD/scary but it has never been much of an actual issue, especially since it only happens at a slow speed...at least that has been my experience.

[MOS]

Originally Posted by LBelle

Yes (and) No...we have a Blue Ox with our 19' Bambi International (2015) and the u-bolts do hit the road/ground "occaisionally". For us it is usually (only) when we are entering/exiting some service stations and getting on/off ferries (during low tides etc.)
I would suggest double checking your hitch set-up: is the ball high enough? Is the hitch level? do you have the bars "tight enough"? I've tweeked or adjusted all of those variables and now, after nearly ten years, seldom have a problem. When it does happen it sounds BAD/scary but it has never been much of an actual issue, especially since it only happens at a slow speed...at least that has been my experience.

Yes ,yes and yes ………

[BikeCamper]

Not just the Blue Ox. Our EZ-Lift will do same with our 19’ Flying Cloud. In our case, our home driveway has quite a dip at the curb. I now wait until we’re out of the driveway to mount the bars (which are the low point.)

It’s about the only reason why I would consider a 2” axle lift.

[AlbertF]

It's the lowest point; with our Eaz-Lift, we often bottom out on aggressive speed bumps. I always make sure the foot of tongue jack is higher than the bars. The bars are effectively a skid plate. It doesn't hurt anything.

If the u-bolts are being ground down, I'd wonder if there is insufficient tension on the bars. A bit of an arc should be normal. Either you should add tension, or switch to spring bars that are less stiff.

[jeffmc306]

+ 1 on AlbertF’s observation about not enough tension on the Blue Ox bars.

Our first trailer was a FC23FB and I didn’t know how many links to tension the bars. I also did not know the trick to raise the tongue jack to make it easier to tighten the bars.

This caused a white knuckle sway incident on I-90 near Madison, WI. I think my DF’s fingernail imprints are still in the dash pad.

See the two photos below - one from the 23’ where the bars are straight (not enough tension) vs. the 2nd photo from our 27’ GT. Notice the bend in the bars and 3 1/2 links showing. I’ve since backed off one link after JC repaired out trailer for front end separation. No need for that much weight transfer with our RAM 2500 vs the VW Touareg TV and the FC23FB.

Take a photo of your bars from the side when connected and see if there’s a curve. It makes a big difference on clearance for the u-bolts.

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by LBelle

Yes (and) No...we have a Blue Ox with our 19' Bambi International (2015) and the u-bolts do hit the road/ground "occaisionally". For us it is usually (only) when we are entering/exiting some service stations and getting on/off ferries (during low tides etc.)
I would suggest double checking your hitch set-up: is the ball high enough? Is the hitch level? do you have the bars "tight enough"? I've tweeked or adjusted all of those variables and now, after nearly ten years, seldom have a problem. When it does happen it sounds BAD/scary but it has never been much of an actual issue, especially since it only happens at a slow speed...at least that has been my experience.

Agree with experience. All 3 of my last AS's I used BO, and the U-bolts on the Sway Control bars threaded ends, can/do drag the driveways in some locations...scares the heck out of us; but, "usually" if you take it slow, and are aware of the situations cause, you can be careful and should be ok. I am about to take my bolts off and replace with new ones...they are bent and a bit rusty now after 7 years on my 28...BO will assist and send new bolts....or, I am going to look at SS Ubolts and nuts at hardware store. I am sure some folks here have replaced also....any input out there??

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by jeffmc306

+ 1 on AlbertF’s observation about not enough tension on the Blue Ox bars.

Our first trailer was a FC23FB and I didn’t know how many links to tension the bars. I also did not know the trick to raise the tongue jack to make it easier to tighten the bars.

This caused a white knuckle sway incident on I-90 near Madison, WI. I think my DF’s fingernail imprints are still in the dash pad.

See the two photos below - one from the 23’ where the bars are straight (not enough tension) vs. the 2nd photo from our 27’ GT. Notice the bend in the bars and 3 1/2 links showing. I’ve since backed off one link after JC repaired out trailer for front end separation. No need for that much weight transfer with our RAM 2500 vs the VW Touareg TV and the FC23FB.

Take a photo of your bars from the side when connected and see if there’s a curve. It makes a big difference on clearance for the u-bolts.

Blue Ox recommends 3 1/2 links showing, if you can get that....with my first two BO on my 25' AS's, I was able to achieve that easier than with my new 27', back in 2017, and I also have 1500lb bars...used 4 1/2 links first 4 years, before moving to 3 1/2 links. Have a slight arc in my Sway Pro bars now when loaded. Takes me 3-4 minutes to load using the front jack when hooking up or un-hooking... Love the way BO when set up properly, uses the spring bars tension to keep the AS in line on the hitch!

[waninae39]

the only way to set the number of links is to do TWO sets of triple weighing at any truck station that has weigh scales; one with the wd setup and one without

this topic has been cover many times before

go to through this form and read all the posts

DO NOT depend on any default settings as each TV / trailer combo is unique

the reason for the two is to ensure the number of links used is balance and ensures equal weight on front and rear tires on the TV

[MOS]

I have plenty of tension on the bars . The eight link is in the slot .
I have been to the scales and all is set up correctly .
From what I get here is that BO does scrap the pavement and that’s normal
Well I don’t like it and will look to change hitch.
Thanks

[franklyfrank]

I have had our BO for 10 years on two different trailers both 30'.
Never had an issue scraping the ground with either one .
If your hitch is set at correct height and the rig is level, both TV and trailer after the chain is engaged in tention mode .

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by MOS

I have plenty of tension on the bars . The eight link is in the slot .
I have been to the scales and all is set up correctly .
From what I get here is that BO does scrap the pavement and that’s normal
Well I don’t like it and will look to change hitch.
Thanks

The Blue Ox isn't the only hitch that can scrape the ground...check others out here and you will see.

[Daquenzer]

I lent my BO to a friend to try out and he had the same problem. He had a lighter tongue weight though. I never had a problem with dragging. Could be that the weight of bars being used should be reduced so there is more flex. When I look at the pictures provided by jeffmc306, those bars don’t have much flex. Maybe need to go to lighter bars to get more flex and get them higher. When I had the BO I only used 1000lb bars for my 28’. I had far more flex in the bar than in the picture above.

[Hermes]

There are a few variables that will affect the distance the bars are set from the ground.

An obvious one is the number of chain links, but the other is the angle of the hitch head.

The combination of hitch head angle and number of chain links results in a pressure placed on the frame by the bars (another factor is hitch height, but let's assume it's set at the proper height for a level trailer).

If you adjust the angle of the hitch head upwards, then you can increase the number of free links to maintain the same WD pressure, and this will raise the bars from the ground.

The reason that specialists like Can Am like to keep the bars low, is that, with properly rated bars (not too stiff), it gives more room for bar flexing (its the bars that need to flex, not the frame-- see the zillions of posts on this subject).

[MOS]

Originally Posted by Hermes

There are a few variables that will affect the distance the bars are set from the ground.

An obvious one is the number of chain links, but the other is the angle of the hitch head.

The combination of hitch head angle and number of chain links results in a pressure placed on the frame by the bars (another factor is hitch height, but let's assume it's set at the proper height for a level trailer).

If you adjust the angle of the hitch head upwards, then you can increase the number of free links to maintain the same WD pressure, and this will raise the bars from the ground.

The reason that specialists like Can Am like to keep the bars low, is that, with properly rated bars (not too stiff), it gives more room for bar flexing (its the bars that need to flex, not the frame-- see the zillions of posts on this subject).

I will try raising the head height and increasing the chain links to 9

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by MOS

I will try raising the head height and increasing the chain links to 9

To be honest with you, your 19', IMHO, is not that much weight to compared to the 23 thru 33 size AS's. There are several other options which I would consider if your not happy with the BO. I had an Equalizer and also a Reese, before going to the BO SP. The Reese dual cam, came with my first 25', and I had no issues with it the 3 years I towed with it. The Equalizer, came with my second 25' AS, but it had hollow bars at that time, and one actually twisted and broke while I was backing up. Thats how I got the BO while on the road...the dealer close to me only had BO and he convinced me why it was a great WDH at the time with the Sway Pro bars; of course, that was when i had a 25' AS....with 1000lb tongue weight. Neither one of those dragged on the ground when going in/out of driveways. Issue with getting these set up properly, include the "height" of your hitch and ball in the receiver...needs to be so your receiver on the AS is level with the A frame once down on the ball. That can be an issue for some of the WDH suppliers, like BO. Take a look at some of the "recommended" suppliers in this article and see the different choices..perhaps one will work fine for controlling sway. Not sure the "weight" of your tongue on a 19', will be an issue? Seems your tongue weight is only 500-600lbs?? Anyway, there are a couple BO "new" models that you might like better for that size AS...or others brands that can also work.

That being said, there are lots of articles comparing these; this being one: https://www.rvingknowhow.com/weight-distribution-hitch/

[CharlesinGA]

Blue Ox says to start with the 9th link (from the free end) in the slot, and if needed, go to the 10th or 11th link. My other brand works perfectly on 9 links. I tried the 10th link in the slot and it helped with bounce coming off of bridges, but I went back to 9 links.



PS. I have since changed the chain set up twice, as twisting to shorten is BAD as it weakens the chain's breaking strength. Interim fix was H links to shorten the chains, final fix was new chain brackets welded onto the tongue.

Just didn't want you to think this was a bubba hack job.

Charles

[CharlesinGA]

Originally Posted by Hermes

There are a few variables that will affect the distance the bars are set from the ground.

An obvious one is the number of chain links, but the other is the angle of the hitch head.

The combination of hitch head angle and number of chain links results in a pressure placed on the frame by the bars (another factor is hitch height, but let's assume it's set at the proper height for a level trailer).

If you adjust the angle of the hitch head upwards, then you can increase the number of free links to maintain the same WD pressure, and this will raise the bars from the ground.

The reason that specialists like Can Am like to keep the bars low, is that, with properly rated bars (not too stiff), it gives more room for bar flexing (its the bars that need to flex, not the frame-- see the zillions of posts on this subject).

Blue Ox Hitch head angle is not adjustable like an Equal-I-zer or some others. It is a fixed angle. All you can do is raise the head up and down the shank (to level the trailer out)

Blue Ox makes a special head for Airstreams, it is designed to work with the underslung coupler of the older models. It raises the bars up higher.

BXW4076 SwayPro Hitch Head Kit, Underslung

Charles

[JJTX]

Originally Posted by MOS

I have plenty of tension on the bars . The eight link is in the slot .
I have been to the scales and all is set up correctly .
From what I get here is that BO does scrap the pavement and that’s normal
Well I don’t like it and will look to change hitch.
Thanks

I used a FASTWAY Trunnion 8000LB on my 19CB for half dozen years. No problems. Never had any dragging problem.

I would NOT use that hitch on the 19CB

I use the same Fastway on my new 23 international now.

[Mollysdad]

Opinions welcome, A or B?
I found a nice Blue Ox that I bought for a steal, and I cleaned it up.
It came with 1500# bars
My tongue weight on the Sherline scale is 1125#
26U; Toyota Tundra.
Should I,
A: Use the 1500# bars since I'm over the 'limit' of the next lower bars (1000#). Set up so the trailer is level. I'd be 375# under the bars limit, but worry I'm putting on a 'too stiff' bar.
or
B: Buy a set of 1000# bars which will have more flex but also give a softer ride and perhaps less frame flex? I'd be 125# Over the limit of the bars.

No "C"

And, Yes, the "U" bolts were scarred from hitting the pavement by the previous owner. I had to cut them off and replace with new from E-Trailer.