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Old 09-15-2019, 11:03 AM   #21
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Equalizer Torque

I found a big rig mechanic who had the right sized torque wrench and the physical heft to do this.

Most towns with semi trucks should have someone around to do this.
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Old 09-15-2019, 11:08 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D44 View Post
<<snip>>
First, there have been a couple of references to the hitch ball -
<<snip>>
Yep, I misunderstood.
I should have known better when you mentioned 3/4" washer.
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Old 09-15-2019, 11:17 AM   #23
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320 ft/lbs torque for Equalizer hitch shank bolts?

See page 22 for question about hitch head bolt torque spec.

https://www.equalizerhitch.com/docum...al_2016-06.pdf
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Old 09-15-2019, 12:15 PM   #24
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Thanks all - we got the 1/2 in breaker bar and a 3’ pipe and it’s as snug as we are going to be able to get it. We’ll check a few times this afternoon on the way home to make sure it’s still as tight as we can keep it.

I was surprised that the washer was not the class 8 that the bolt is. Seems this is what Equalizer includes with the hitch. This was originally set up by Colonial when we bought the rig so I may call them this week to see what they have to say.

I did also notice the bit of wear from the hitch slop situation and will look into ways to take care of that as well.

Thanks to everyone for all the help and advice.

Walt
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Old 09-15-2019, 12:40 PM   #25
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I am surprised Equalizer doesnt use a conical toothed washer like this:

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...Tite/3232.html
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Old 09-15-2019, 03:13 PM   #26
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All the thoughts submitted were great! When I got my Equalizer hitch the ball needed to be installed and torqued as you stated. My torque wrenches fell short like you. I took it to a truck/tire shop. They had the right socket and 3/4 torque wrench and with it turned 90 degrees. He had it tightened in a few seconds...when I asked what I owed him he just smiled and said "remember me when you need to buy tires"....I have gotten my tires from him ever since.[emoji4]
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Old 09-15-2019, 07:37 PM   #27
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Closing this out - home safe and sound. Stopped 3 times along the way to put the breaker bar and pipe on the bolt heads and couldn’t move them at all.

Will set up a time with my local guy to check out the hitch and setup - good excuse to have the whole setup reviewed as I haven’t been overly happy with the slightly down angle of the tongue and the extra length of the shank below the hitch.

Thanks again to all. Have a good night.

Walt
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Old 09-15-2019, 08:23 PM   #28
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I know it's too late to help, but may help someone else, when I torqued mine I ended up going to a rental store, the guy let me do it in his parking lot no charge, I went to 5 garages and one U-haul store 250 max. Is all they Carry. Glade your home safe Mike
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Old 09-15-2019, 08:28 PM   #29
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My Husky hitch has Conical Tooth Washers , on it these look like regular washers
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Old 09-15-2019, 08:30 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRH View Post
I am surprised Equalizer doesnt use a conical toothed washer like this:

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...Tite/3232.html
I noticed that also, my Husky hitch does
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Old 09-16-2019, 07:51 AM   #31
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Better yet, grade 8 flat washers and grade 8 nylon locking nuts since normal split lock washers provide very little actual locking functionality.
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Old 09-16-2019, 03:58 PM   #32
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Torquing nuts is not a very precise business, unless you're into hydraulic fasteners. The old way was to slug them down with a sledge. You can get pretty close to 450 ft lbs with a $25, 2' pipe wrench and then push on it with what you estimate is 225 lbs. Maybe use two people. The wrench will chew up your nut but it works in a bind.
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Old 09-16-2019, 07:57 PM   #33
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Don't push down. Turn the hitch head the other way and pull up. Two reasons: 1) You are less likely to fall. 2) You can put much more force on the wrench. Grab the wrench and pull up using both legs. Just one leg can lift you own body weight at least (assuming you can still climb stairs).
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Old 09-17-2019, 09:38 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wulfraat View Post
I doubled up on my 3/4” flat washers when I ran my equalizer.

Just use a 1/2” breaker bar as others have noted and you’ll be fine. I’ve disassembled/ remounted the hitch head to the shank at least a half dozen times never a problem with this approach.


Looks like the flat washers aren’t tough enough to withstand the torque required.. maybe switch to grade 8 washers would hold up Better...would decrease the need for a re-torque.
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