2017 F250 and Equalizer Hitch

[majorairhead]

Thank y'all for the details. I appreciate the real life data .

I measured my 25 flying cloud and when she's sitting level the 17 and 3/4 inch measurement we read about in the manual is up to the BOTTOM of the frame (right behind the bottom of the coupler) The bottom of the tongue/coupler sits at 19 inches.

The top of the ball is at 21 inches high on the F150 using part # 90-02-4200.

When shes sitting on the 2015 F150 crew cab 4x4 without the Equalizer bars on, the bottom of the frame drops from that 17 and 3/4 inches to 13 inches.

When I deploy the 1,000 pound bars it brings the bottom of the frame up to 15 and 1/4 inches.

So, as set up at the dealer, shes riding 2.5 inches lower in the front than level.

[Moflash]

Originally Posted by slowmover

Is y'alls idea of "level" checked by splitting the axles w/ and w/o WD tensioned on a segmented scale?

Rough-in is placing a level across the doorway.

I see 4-5 trucks that size pulling AS on the front axle for every one that isn't.

.

Really??

[JMynes]

Originally Posted by uncle_bob

Hi

If you can find it, there is a 90-02-4900 version of the 90-02-4300. The 4900 has the same drop but is a 2.5" design.

Bob

The 90-02-4900 shank worked for me. It’s a little low (about an inch) in the front on the lowest setting, but it got us through a 300 mile round trip just fine.

I’ve ordered a truck cap, once that’s on I will raise the ball one position and take a washer out from under the rivet, load it all up and check again. I expect it will be pretty close.

Currently, with 5 washers, front fender height is the same as no load height. That’s with roughly 900 lbs tongue weight and a moderate load of gear in the back.

Haven’t been to the scales yet, waiting on the cap.

[billrector]

I have a new 2017 F250 and am trying to setup my existing Equalizer hitch for use with my 2017 27FC. I tried to use the existing shank, but the ball sat too high. I then got an 18" shank (so I could open the tailgate while hitched) but I have been warned not to use that shank so I now have an Equalizer EQ90-02-4400 shank. That seems to work well and I am able to get the ball at 22" which matches the trailer.

Now I am trying to set up the WD. The odd thing is that when I hitch the trailer, the back goes down but the front wheel well measurement does not seem to change whether I have the WD connected or not. Basically, when I hitch up the AS, the front wheel well measurement does not change.

I have read other posts that said the same thing...on the F250 WD does nothing. So, if that is the case, how do you setup the WD? The instructions say to measure the front wheel well with and without hitching the trailer and use WD to get half way between the two. However, if the measurement does not change, how are you suppose to set up the WD?

[Countryboy59]

Originally Posted by billrector

I have a new 2017 F250 and am trying to setup my existing Equalizer hitch for use with my 2017 27FC. I tried to use the existing shank, but the ball sat too high. I then got an 18" shank (so I could open the tailgate while hitched) but I have been warned not to use that shank so I now have an Equalizer EQ90-02-4400 shank. That seems to work well and I am able to get the ball at 22" which matches the trailer.

Now I am trying to set up the WD. The odd thing is that when I hitch the trailer, the back goes down but the front wheel well measurement does not seem to change whether I have the WD connected or not. Basically, when I hitch up the AS, the front wheel well measurement does not change.

I have read other posts that said the same thing...on the F250 WD does nothing. So, if that is the case, how do you setup the WD? The instructions say to measure the front wheel well with and without hitching the trailer and use WD to get half way between the two. However, if the measurement does not change, how are you suppose to set up the WD?

How much does the rear wheel opening of the truck go down when you set the trailer on? When you add the WD the front should go down slightly and the back should come up a bit. Remember you're trying to put a little bit of weight on the front axle, theoretically to offset what comes off when you set the trailer on the ball.

I have a 27 and F350, frankly I just snug up the Hensley a bit and go, to the marks set up by the dealer. It doesn't take much. Doesn't make sense to me to lighten the drive wheels to put a couple hundred pounds back on the steer axle of a 7000 lb truck. If you're concerned go weigh everything and set it up right. You have plenty of margin as long as the trailer sets level and doesn't overload either trailer axle.

[majorairhead]

90-02-4900 shank on a '17 F250 XLT CCSB with a flying cloud 25A (rear twin)

[Viewseeker]

Trying to get the straight scoop on the 2017 Super Duty frame and the suggestion that it is stiff enough where weight distribution bars are not needed at all.
Other than a reference in the brochure I have not been able to find a solid answer, especially about towing my RV trailer. I've towed my 32 foot SOB for short distances without the bars with no issues. I haven't tried longer trips (more that 2 hours).

Any thoughts or experience with this? I have a 2017 F-350 Crew.

My 2018 25RB FC is being delivered in April and there is a big difference messing up with my old Jayco vs. my shiny new Airstream.

[MWBishop]

90-02-4900 as well (2-1/2 Hitch-10 Rise/6 Drop) on '17 Plat F250 / '17 26U.
This is with the 10,000/1,000 Equalizer hitch.
Did have to dial in some WD to put #400 back on steer axle.
Now completely level, WD correct, and tows great.
As a bonus I can even open the tailgate when connected.

[ksteve06]

Originally Posted by MWBishop

90-02-4900 as well (2-1/2 Hitch-10 Rise/6 Drop) on '17 Plat F250 / '17 26U.

This is with the 10,000/1,000 Equalizer hitch.

Did have to dial in some WD to put #400 back on steer axle.

Now completely level, WD correct, and tows great.

As a bonus I can even open the tailgate when connected.

Just wondering how many washers you are using with your setup. I’m using 5 but thought about using 6 to transfer a little more weight to the front.

[uncle_bob]

Originally Posted by Viewseeker

Trying to get the straight scoop on the 2017 Super Duty frame and the suggestion that it is stiff enough where weight distribution bars are not needed at all.
Other than a reference in the brochure I have not been able to find a solid answer, especially about towing my RV trailer. I've towed my 32 foot SOB for short distances without the bars with no issues. I haven't tried longer trips (more that 2 hours).

Any thoughts or experience with this? I have a 2017 F-350 Crew.

My 2018 25RB FC is being delivered in April and there is a big difference messing up with my old Jayco vs. my shiny new Airstream.

Hi

The 250 (with the right options) or the 350 will tow 10,000 pounds without any WD or AS. It does work. For a 10 to 20 minute drive down the road, it is not a problem. That's as long as you aren't going very fast ( < 50 mhp) and the wind isn't going crazy. I do it on a regular basis pulling the trailer between the house and storage. I once made the mistake of trying the "fast route" home. Not going to do that again ....

Bob

[RandyNH]

My 2017 350 CC long bed, is rated for 2400lbs tongue weight no WD, with 800lbs tongue weight front end deflection is ⅜" so yes the truck is fine without it, the trailer on the other hand might prefer the added stability...

[Viewseeker]

Good advice on the F-350 towing with no WD. WIll follow it. Not necessary for short trips and will use WD/Anti-Sway for regular camping trips. Thanks!

[VaTravelers]

I’ve got an Equalizer 12,000/1200 with an F250 4x4 towing a 2017 28’ International. I’m concerned the hitch is too rigid and may damage my AS. Does anyone know if that is the case? Can I use 10,000# bars with my 12,000 Equalizer hitch head?

[mikeinca]

Originally Posted by VaTravelers

I’ve got an Equalizer 12,000/1200 with an F250 4x4 towing a 2017 28’ International. I’m concerned the hitch is too rigid and may damage my AS. Does anyone know if that is the case? Can I use 10,000# bars with my 12,000 Equalizer hitch head?

No, the bars are specific to the head size; the 10000# bars require a different head than what you have. I use the 12000/1200 setup to tow my 30' Classic with a 2017 F250 and I've seen no symptoms of a rough ride on the coach or it's contents but I can't speak for sure to a trailer your size.

FWIW, the nominal hitch weight of your trailer, per factory specs, is actually a few pounds heavier than my Classic although the base weight overall is about 1800lbs less.

[VaTravelers]

That’s what I thought. I just got the hitch so I don’t have any data points. I’ve been using an E2 hitch that was installed when we bought the trailer. It’s a 10,000/1000. It works great I noticed wear and thought I’d upgrade to the Equalizer. I’ll go back to the Equalizer 10,000/1,000 if I notice any changes in the trailer ride. I like the Equalizer hitch on the F250.

[majorairhead]

Originally Posted by VaTravelers

That’s what I thought. I just got the hitch so I don’t have any data points. I’ve been using an E2 hitch that was installed when we bought the trailer. It’s a 10,000/1000. It works great I noticed wear and thought I’d upgrade to the Equalizer. I’ll go back to the Equalizer 10,000/1,000 if I notice any changes in the trailer ride. I like the Equalizer hitch on the F250.

I have 1,000 lb. bars. Works fine. You could drop your L-brackets one hole and see what that does for it, not a tough job to do, just make sure you torque the nuts correctly.

[4003]

This is my first post, so I found the post with the latest date, 09/06/2018, and am going from there. My wife and I bought, in Ohio, a new 22 ft. Sport Bambi. The dealer installed an Equalizer hitch. When I got home to North Carolina, I noticed that the hitch has 10,000 pound bars. I called Equalizer because I was afraid that the heavy bars could damage the lightweight trailer. They said they had never heard of problems with heavy bars. I am not satisfied with this answer. We had several problems after leaving this dealer, not dewinterized, no hot water, no hitch pin, front of trailer too high and lots of sway when trucks passed us. It has since been parked at our house. I have bought a new shank with a 6 inch drop to level the trailer. I used measurements, specifications and a plug-in table on Equalizer's website to decide on the shank. I can adjust the hitch to my 2016 Toyota 4Runner when I get everything to a level site; if the bars are not too heavy. Any thoughts?

[Tsunami-v2]

Here's my set up to include the Gen-Y torsion hitch and Equalizer weight distribution setup on my 2017 F250 diesel (Lariate Prestige with FX4 package) towing a 2016 28 foot Flying CLOUD. Works like a charm. Level and very sooth.

[4003]

I too am worried that 10,000 pound bars are way too heavy for my 22 ft. Sport Bambi. The hitch was installed by the dealer for my Airstream. Does anyone know if I should be concerned?

[GCinSC2]

4003,

I read your earlier question and that you asked equal I Zer about popping rivets or such. Maybe try a different voice and call Equal I Zer back and ask for hitch and bar rating recommendation for your trailer and tow vehicle and see what they recommend now.

Highland N.C. nice area BTW.

Gary