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Old 08-29-2006, 10:21 PM   #21
JDL
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Lew,

Glad you chimed in. With full LP tanks, a full water tank and bigger batteries is your tongue weight still below 600#?

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Old 08-30-2006, 09:53 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by JDL
Lew,

Glad you chimed in. With full LP tanks, a full water tank and bigger batteries is your tongue weight still below 600#?

JDL
460 last time I checked it. I counter-balance by carrying most things behind the axel, as the Sprinter is only rated for 500lb. tongue weight.
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Old 08-30-2006, 10:40 AM   #23
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Lewster, that is how I am planning to install my brackets. The tech at the dealer told me AS would void the warranty it I did that, because it was altering their design. Can't imagine why though. He also told me the gas line was galvanized pipe.....I brought him around and pointed out that it was copper tubing..

JDL, I sent a reply to your PM. I would guess there are about as many 19' models using an Equalizer system that are running the 600/6000 as the 1000/10,000. I thought about this for about 3 days. Read a lot of posts on this forum, called the Equalizer folks and RVWholesale. Both recommended the 1000# model. Sure wish there was a way to try out both models before purchasing one. I asked the guy at Equalizer if they had plans to offer a model between the 600# & 1000# (like an 800#) and he said he was not aware of any plans to do so.

Hope to finish the set up on Saturday..
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Old 08-30-2006, 06:49 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by 64Vette
Lewster, that is how I am planning to install my brackets. The tech at the dealer told me AS would void the warranty it I did that, because it was altering their design. Can't imagine why though. He also told me the gas line was galvanized pipe.....I brought him around and pointed out that it was copper tubing..

JDL, I sent a reply to your PM. I would guess there are about as many 19' models using an Equalizer system that are running the 600/6000 as the 1000/10,000. I thought about this for about 3 days. Read a lot of posts on this forum, called the Equalizer folks and RVWholesale. Both recommended the 1000# model. Sure wish there was a way to try out both models before purchasing one. I asked the guy at Equalizer if they had plans to offer a model between the 600# & 1000# (like an 800#) and he said he was not aware of any plans to do so.

Hope to finish the set up on Saturday..
64,

Just goes to show why I'm in business . Most garden variety RV techs just don't get it!!!! Look inside the trailer and you'll see that the LP lines (copper, OF COURSE!!!) are curved, bent and run all over the place. Tweaking it 1/2" to allow you to slip the EQ bolt in between IS the way to do it. PLUS, you're close enough to the flex line that comes from the regulator to have virtually no effect on the line at all!!!

Just my 2 cents worth...............
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Old 08-30-2006, 10:00 PM   #25
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64Vette - I double checked my setup again. The dealer mounted mine at 29 inches from the coupler. This allowed about 1/3 of an inch clarence from the gas line. It does not rub. Now, the owner before me had a Hensley. Based on the missing paint I would say it did rub! Also, sent you a PM. Thanks

Lew - Thanks.

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Old 08-31-2006, 10:55 AM   #26
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Whoops !! I hope the photo shows up now
Hmmmm....think I would move this so as not to pinch that LP line. Put the line under the bolt.

I had a similiar situation with locating the LP brackets and the recomended distance from the ball...called EQ and they said it was cool to move it a few inches either way. I did, and it works fine. Have used an EQ for many years, can't be beat for the $ (or maybe any price???)

EQ has great tech support, don't be afraid to call. They can walk you through just about any situation...

Best of luck on the new unit!
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Old 08-31-2006, 12:01 PM   #27
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My thoughts on going with the 1,000# bars. If you go with the heavier bars, you can always adjust the weight distribution off of the front axels by removing one of the washers or moving the angle brackets down one hole (I think it's down, check the owner's manual to be sure). But if you get too small of a set of bars, you cannot add larger ones to the head, you have to get an entirely new setup to increase the capcity. In other words, if you get more than you need, you can adjust down, but if you get too small, you are stuck.

I discussed my trailer's tongue weight and the loads that I plan to carry in the back of my truck with a local trailer shop (who knew I would be buying from a dealer in another state) and he recommended going with the larger size. After the fact, a call to the Equal-i-zer factory confirmed my decision.
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Old 08-31-2006, 08:01 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillTex
Hmmmm....think I would move this so as not to pinch that LP line. Put the line under the bolt.

I had a similiar situation with locating the LP brackets and the recomended distance from the ball...called EQ and they said it was cool to move it a few inches either way. I did, and it works fine. Have used an EQ for many years, can't be beat for the $ (or maybe any price???)

EQ has great tech support, don't be afraid to call. They can walk you through just about any situation...

Best of luck on the new unit!
BillTex,

Thanks for your comments. I'm not sure I understand why changing the distance of the link plates to the ball makes it easier to put the bolt closer to the bottom of the trailer frame. You still have to remove the retaining clamps that hold the LP line and lower the line. I understand that lowering the line allows the bolt to be placed one hole closer to the bottom of the frame, but why does this matter?
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Old 08-31-2006, 08:18 PM   #29
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I spoke with my dealer today about the choice of 600lb vs 1000lb equalizer for our so to be Bambi 19ft.

His opionion was it was better to go with the 600lb as the 1000lb would be too 'stiff' compared to the 600lb and be harder on the trailer/tv. Better in a situation to bend the hitch than damage tv or trailer.

Think I read somewhere else on here about this issue...
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Old 08-31-2006, 08:29 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hiker
BillTex,

Thanks for your comments. I'm not sure I understand why changing the distance of the link plates to the ball makes it easier to put the bolt closer to the bottom of the trailer frame. You still have to remove the retaining clamps that hold the LP line and lower the line. I understand that lowering the line allows the bolt to be placed one hole closer to the bottom of the frame, but why does this matter?
Hi Mike, sorry-didn't mean to confuse the two issues.
1) I would move that line under the bolt-regardless.

2) I had an issue with the bracket:ball distance on another camper and had to go shorter. EQ said it was no problem to cheat a couple of " either way. I did, and it worked fine for years and many thousands of miles.

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Old 09-01-2006, 07:16 AM   #31
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Equal-i-zer spring bars aren't really spring bars in the since that Reese spring bars are. Mine are solid 2" square steel rigid bars that weigh a ton. I can't imagine them ever bending. Where as the Reese bars are supposed to bend slightly under the tension of the chains.

Now my planned loading conditions are different than yours probably will be so that may make a difference, but I would rather have as much control through the hitch in a "situation" as possible rather than have it be the first thing to fail. That would certainly be a recipe for disaster. Once the hitch begins to fail (bend) you have started loosing control of the connection through the hitch and thus are beginning to loose control of your trailer.

I plan on loading my truck bed with as much as 1,000# when towing on many of our trips. The first with this load will be this week end in fact. But I have had no problems associated with the towing characteristics thus far from using an oversized weight distribution set up on my tow vehicle. In the beginning I had issues related to tire pressure in the TV's tires, but that was quickly and easily corrected by adding air to the tires.
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Old 09-01-2006, 04:54 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillTex
Hi Mike, sorry-didn't mean to confuse the two issues.
1) I would move that line under the bolt-regardless.

2) I had an issue with the bracket:ball distance on another camper and had to go shorter. EQ said it was no problem to cheat a couple of " either way. I did, and it worked fine for years and many thousands of miles.

Bill
Bill,

Based on your advice about moving the line, I called Equal-I-Zer tech support. They recommend lowering the line to allow the bolt to be placed as close as possible to the bottom of the frame.

Thanks for your help
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Old 09-05-2006, 06:11 AM   #33
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Hello,
Hope everyone had a nice Labor Day Weekend. Thought I'd give an update on the installation of the Equalizer hitch. The installation went well, amazingly easy as a matter of fact. I filled up the fresh water tank, and loaded the trailer down as if we were heading out on a trip and took a Tongue Weight reading. It came out to 615 lbs. With that info in hand, I set the hitch up according to the instructions. I lowered the gas line to allow the lower bolt on the frame brackets to be used closest to the frame. Road tested following initial installation and WOW ! what a difference. Tried a few different setting configurations, but ended up coming back to the original setup.

Thanks again for the feedback everyone !
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Old 09-05-2006, 07:47 AM   #34
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Yeah-EQ has been great; set it/forget it.

But will you always be travelling w/full water tank?
8#/gallon...


Bill
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Old 09-05-2006, 08:00 AM   #35
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I tried a new towing senario this week end. I towed my Airstream, loaded as usual, and had my 1,000# golf cart in the bed of the truck, plus two children's bikes, and two 35# ramps. I didn't take the time to make any adjustments to the hitch set up at all since my journey would only be 63 miles on two lane roads. I couldn't tell any difference.

I mean looking at the truck, golf cart, trailer combination, I could see that the rear of the truck was maybe an inch or two lower than the front so expected some handling issues, but there were none. I went to Pine Mountain, Georgia which has marginally steep roads, but no switch backs nor is it very high in altitude, but I really couldn't detect any noticable difference. On the interstate, there may be. Just to test things out on one strait away, I got up to 70 MPH and took a mild curve or two at 65+ and couldn't tell any difference. I was surprised!
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Old 09-05-2006, 08:06 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillTex
Yeah-EQ has been great; set it/forget it.

But will you always be travelling w/full water tank?
8#/gallon...


Bill
Hi Bill,

Probably not, but I did want to see what the tongue weight would be with a full water tank. Once I got to the point of setting the WD, I drained the fresh water tank to a little less than 1/2 tank. That puts it (tongue wt) around 525#. With that, I guess I could have gone with the 600/6000 hitch system and been alright, but it is what it is. I did not notice any harshnes in the ride. Actually, the ride was smoother and more balanced.
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Old 09-05-2006, 11:03 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by 64Vette
Hi Bill,

Probably not, but I did want to see what the tongue weight would be with a full water tank. Once I got to the point of setting the WD, I drained the fresh water tank to a little less than 1/2 tank. That puts it (tongue wt) around 525#. With that, I guess I could have gone with the 600/6000 hitch system and been alright, but it is what it is. I did not notice any harshnes in the ride. Actually, the ride was smoother and more balanced.
Yeah I have seen a lot of discussion about different rated bars. I started with the 1000# rated bars and they are fine. Like others, I moved up to a larger camper real soon. Glad I had the bars to do the job. I can't believe the heavier bars would effect the ride handling except in a positive way.
You did the right thing buy playing with your hitch set up at home. Now you are more confident to make adjustments if needed and I am sure you will keep the needed tools with you. Sounds like you are all set now!
Oh yeah-you might want to purchase the spare part kit that EQ sells. I have yet to need mine, but for a few $ at least I know it is in my toolbox.
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Old 09-05-2006, 11:23 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillTex
You did the right thing buy playing with your hitch set up at home. Now you are more confident to make adjustments if needed and I am sure you will keep the needed tools with you. Sounds like you are all set now!
Oh yeah-you might want to purchase the spare part kit that EQ sells. I have yet to need mine, but for a few $ at least I know it is in my toolbox.
Yes, I absolutely feel comfortable with the settings now. I like to understand something as much as possible. Spending the time testing helped me to do so.

Also, I did purchase the spare part kit and its tucked away..... hopefully to never be used, but there just in case )

Take care.
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