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Old 04-01-2016, 06:24 AM   #81
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1992 29' Excella
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BoldAdventure,

I like your new exhaust. They definitely tucked it up out of the way.

Danielle and I saw a Power Wagon at the auto show recently. I like the stance of the vehicle and it certainly has a machismo factor. The 4X4 and 6.2L should make a great combination.
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Got a cooped-up feeling, gotta get out of town, got those Airstream campin' blues...
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Old 04-02-2016, 09:03 PM   #82
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Put the wife in the car and told her to drive:



---

Installed my new Bak Flip HD cover on the truck today. This thing is really nice. Aluminum top and bottom, supports up to 400lbs. Powder coated black. Very nice.
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Old 04-03-2016, 06:28 AM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BoldAdventure View Post
Put the wife in the car and told her to drive:


Wow, that thing sounds swweeeeet!

How's the noise factor/drone inside the cab?
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1992 29' Excella Classic / 2010 Interstate
2005 Chevrolet Suburban K2500 8.1L
2018 GMC Sierra K1500 SLT, 6.2L, Max Trailering
Got a cooped-up feeling, gotta get out of town, got those Airstream campin' blues...
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Old 04-03-2016, 09:36 AM   #84
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Surprisingly no drone. It's quite inside unless you hit above 3000rpm.

So, when you get on it, you hear it. Compared to our old truck which had duals and a Magnaflow it's quieter.

For the first couple of days, I was disappointed it wasn't louder. However after a break-in period, it's noticeably more audible than it was at first. So I made the video yesterday.

I am used to dual exhaust. Our old 1500 had dual exhaust with the same size Magnaflow and the resonators removed. But it was louder and audible at all RPM's.

I suspect it might be because the 1500 had 2.5-inch exhaust that piped into the Magnaflow then out to dual 3-inch pipes and tips.

The 2500 6.4l Hemi comes standard with a 3.5-inch exhaust with single muffler and giant resonator.

To maintain back pressure, I pipe down with a reducer into a 3-inch inlet and outlet on my Magnaflow then back out a single 3.5-inch tip. It ends up being mellow and more of a bass note compared to the old exhaust which had more of that raspy duals sound.

I recorded an interior clip, but haven't posted it yet. Think I will tow with the new setup and record a second clip, combine those and share for other Ram owners on Youtube.
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Old 09-10-2016, 11:14 AM   #85
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1992 29' Excella
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Been a while since I've posted here. Can't recall quite what I've been doing for the past several months but I'm sure there were some repairs/modifications in there somewhere.

I recently noticed a coolant leak on our 2005 Suburban. It was pretty obvious the leak was coming from the water pump so I ordered a replacement part. It occurred to me there might be other problems since the vehicle is 11 years old and has just over 100k miles.

During the water pump installation I noticed coolant residue on the tank portion of the radiator - looks like I need to replace that too! I'll take some pictures when I perform the work on the radiator.

For now, here's a picture of the water pump. It's old-school cast iron so it's heavier than it looks!
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1992 29' Excella Classic / 2010 Interstate
2005 Chevrolet Suburban K2500 8.1L
2018 GMC Sierra K1500 SLT, 6.2L, Max Trailering
Got a cooped-up feeling, gotta get out of town, got those Airstream campin' blues...
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Old 09-10-2016, 11:28 AM   #86
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Hi from AZ. . . put Flowmaster cat back exhaust & K & N filter on my new Eco-blahblah F150. . . not as loud as the Heartthrob I put on my '11. . . saw 21 mpg coming downhill from the high country Monday (sans AS). . . regards, Craig
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Old 09-12-2016, 11:16 AM   #87
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I performed a scheduled emissions service on the truck at 67,500 miles. Cleaned the egr valve, egr cross over, egr cooler, intake butterfly and MAF sensor. I had a bottle of the Mopar soot cleaner and I also used some heavy duty simple green cleaner. Simple green works wonders on soot!
As part of this maintenance the crankcase vent filter gets replaced too. The job involves taking apart quite a few things, a special wrench or two and some new cuss words. I did it over the course of a few evenings after work. Cost was ~$125 in parts. I have heard the dealer charges $600 and up for the service but there is multiple hours involved in the doing the project correctly.
I also decided to throw a transmission, transfercase and brake fluid change in while I had time.
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Old 12-22-2016, 11:26 AM   #88
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1992 29' Excella
2010 22' Interstate
Van By The River , Georgia
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Looking back through this thread I see lots of DIYers in this group.

My latest repair was replacing the rear differential pinion seal on our 2005 K2500 Suburban. This should have been a two hour job based on the same task I performed on our 1996 C2500 Suburban.

However the puller I used for the job didn't work (the thread on the shaft galled) so a trip to the hardware store as well as some fiddling around... and this job took nearly six hours! Consequently, I didn't take many pictures.

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Universal joint disconnected with tape around the bearing caps so they don't fall off.

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1-1/2" nut on pinion yoke.

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Puller in position to remove yoke. Note the marks on the end of the threaded portion of shaft to ensure the yoke and the nut are re-installed in the same orientation
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Lucius and Danielle
1992 29' Excella Classic / 2010 Interstate
2005 Chevrolet Suburban K2500 8.1L
2018 GMC Sierra K1500 SLT, 6.2L, Max Trailering
Got a cooped-up feeling, gotta get out of town, got those Airstream campin' blues...
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Old 12-31-2016, 07:13 AM   #89
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I have done a few pinion seals, what fun it can be rolling around under a vehicle. I am currently putting front and rear control arms (upper and lower) on my wife grand Cherokee. It is also needs a rusty brake line replaced. Then it's on to my econobox Honda Civic for brakes. I also worked on the washing machine this week. The fun never stops in our house. Too top all that off we had to put down our 16 year old border collie last night..... I feel like I have a black cloud hovering us this past month.
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Old 01-01-2017, 06:34 AM   #90
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I applied Fluidfilm undercoating to the underside of the truck in the fall. Rolled underneath to check and touch up any spots. Also pulled the interior trim and applied Waxoyl to all the interior body panels. I've used this stuff for years. It does an amazing job preventing rust. You do have to reapply periodically. I buy the gallon size and use undercoating wands to reach enclosed sections of the underbody, frame, and box.
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Old 02-16-2017, 12:14 PM   #91
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What would I do with my time if we didn't own a 21 year old tow vehicle? I guess I'd buy a 12 year old tow vehicle!

Even the newer (12 y.o.) Suburban we own needs repairs now and then. At 117,500 +/- miles the check engine light came on the orher day. The local parts store checked the code and found the driver side upstream oxygen sensor was faulty. I decided to purchase two upstream sensors and replace both the driver and passenger side.

The sensors were easy to access, not too difficult to remove, and less than one hour later the Suburban was running fine and the check engine light cleared itself.

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Cost of repair: <$200 and 1 hour of time

Dealership estimate: around $400 including labor, plus I would have spent 3 or more hours waiting in the "lounge" in their service department.

I've seen a signature here on Air Forums that indicates if women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy. I think that's attributed to Red Green. So maybe I'm at least handy!
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Lucius and Danielle
1992 29' Excella Classic / 2010 Interstate
2005 Chevrolet Suburban K2500 8.1L
2018 GMC Sierra K1500 SLT, 6.2L, Max Trailering
Got a cooped-up feeling, gotta get out of town, got those Airstream campin' blues...
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Old 02-16-2017, 12:25 PM   #92
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New number 4 cop, fresh set of plugs, and a new fuel filter. 271,000 miles.
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Old 02-16-2017, 02:35 PM   #93
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The center console armrest cover was coming apart in my 2007 Tundra.
The lid new from Toyota is over $500.
Maybe I could get it covered at an upholstery shop for much less than that.
What I did: I ordered a $25 slip cover from Amazon to hide the peeling material on the console lid.
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Old 02-16-2017, 03:40 PM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nvestysly View Post
What would I do with my time if we didn't own a 21 year old tow vehicle? I guess I'd buy a 12 year old tow vehicle!

Even the newer (12 y.o.) Suburban we own needs repairs now and then. At 117,500 +/- miles the check engine light came on the orher day. The local parts store checked the code and found the driver side upstream oxygen sensor was faulty. I decided to purchase two upstream sensors and replace both the driver and passenger side.

The sensors were easy to access, not too difficult to remove, and less than one hour later the Suburban was running fine and the check engine light cleared itself.

Attachment 279945

Attachment 279946

Cost of repair: <$200 and 1 hour of time

Dealership estimate: around $400 including labor, plus I would have spent 3 or more hours waiting in the "lounge" in their service department.

I've seen a signature here on Air Forums that indicates if women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy. I think that's attributed to Red Green. So maybe I'm at least handy!
Great pictures nvestysly. I replaced 3 sensors on my 2006 Dodge Ram. They sell them at auto parts stores for $ 40.00 ea. Bought special sockets for them, ended up using a pipe wrench. Since I'm very handy, that must mean....oh well.
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Old 09-19-2018, 12:42 PM   #95
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1992 29' Excella
2010 22' Interstate
Van By The River , Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nvestysly View Post
Looking back through this thread I see lots of DIYers in this group.

My latest repair was replacing the rear differential pinion seal on our 2005 K2500 Suburban. This should have been a two hour job based on the same task I performed on our 1996 C2500 Suburban.

However the puller I used for the job didn't work (the thread on the shaft galled) so a trip to the hardware store as well as some fiddling around... and this job took nearly six hours! Consequently, I didn't take many pictures.

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Universal joint disconnected with tape around the bearing caps so they don't fall off.

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1-1/2" nut on pinion yoke.

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Puller in position to remove yoke. Note the marks on the end of the threaded portion of shaft to ensure the yoke and the nut are re-installed in the same orientation
I was happy that I (thought I) fixed the leaking pinion seal but darn it if the thing wasn't leaking again within a few thousand miles.

I didn't want to go through the hassle of replacing it again so I brought it to the dealer for repairs sometime in early 2017. They did the same thing I did - remove the yoke replace the seal and put everything back together.

About 1 year later and only a few thousand miles on the odometer and it was leaking again. Arrrggghhh! This time the dealer decided to replace the crush sleeve on the pinion bearing. I thought they were simply doing a "shotgun" blast of let's fix everything we can think of and see what happens. Low and behold, the new crush sleeve fixed the problem (or at least it's not leaking). My understanding is the crush sleeve applies the pre-load to the pinion bearings. The crush sleeve had either been crushed too far (maybe I did this? but I don't think so) or was otherwise not securing the bearings properly so the pinion was ever-so-slightly loose and causing premature failure of the seal. At least that's the story the dealer is sticking to at this point.

This was on our 2005 Suburban. Nothing a few $$ couldn't fix.
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1992 29' Excella Classic / 2010 Interstate
2005 Chevrolet Suburban K2500 8.1L
2018 GMC Sierra K1500 SLT, 6.2L, Max Trailering
Got a cooped-up feeling, gotta get out of town, got those Airstream campin' blues...
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Old 09-20-2018, 12:09 PM   #96
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Our 1996 and 2005 Suburbans are getting a little long in the tooth. The tow vehicles are 22 years (200k miles) and 13 years (140k miles) respectively. At some point items simply begin to fail whether it's age or miles.

So the latest failure in our saga of maintaining vehicles was the hydraulic brake booster on the 1996 C2500 Suburban. Interesting that I have already replaced the same component on our 2005 Suburban although that was two years ago so I had to retrain myself all over again!

Fortunately the entire job start to finish took less than 4 hours. It took me longer than that to find the part (in stock) and go to the dealer to purchase it.

Here's what a new unit looks like out of the box. This part mounts in the engine compartment, between the firewall and the brake master cylinder. The long rod extends inside the vehicle and connects to the brake pedal.

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You'll have to imagine all the contortions, lying on back, busted knuckles etc.... Fortunately there was no cussing! Here's a picture of the old booster with hoses disconnected and beginning to remove the master cylinder. Then a picture with everything reinstalled and reconnected. No more leaks... for now.

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Lucius and Danielle
1992 29' Excella Classic / 2010 Interstate
2005 Chevrolet Suburban K2500 8.1L
2018 GMC Sierra K1500 SLT, 6.2L, Max Trailering
Got a cooped-up feeling, gotta get out of town, got those Airstream campin' blues...
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Old 09-20-2018, 12:43 PM   #97
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2001 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 HD 8.1 liter gas with Allison transmission

I've done all my maintenance items, replaced the crank shaft position sensor, added a front hitch, plus some other goodies. I upgraded my single note 12 volt horn to a 4 note set-up plus I installed a 2.5 gallon air tank and compressor so that I could air up anywhere - and I added some grover dual air horns.
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Old 09-21-2018, 02:57 AM   #98
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Replaced lower tie rod ends on the F350. The right one had become slightly loose. THe new ones are greasable so that will be the last time that ever needs to be done.

Also installed a new set of shocks. Amazed the difference it makes.
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Old 09-21-2018, 07:26 AM   #99
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Blue accents...3m reflective marine tape. 👍

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Old 09-21-2018, 12:20 PM   #100
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Put an aftermarket Carli trackbar and Moog drag link on my 2009 Dodge pickup and it tightened the steering up considerably. The drive on our trailer trip last week was much more pleasant.

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