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Old 11-17-2013, 07:06 AM   #21
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2009 30' Classic
Surprise , Arizona
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I have a 2012 Ram 3500. The trucks brake controller has settings for electric over hydraulic trailer brakes, but would not activate the hydraulic brakes on my 2009 classic. The Tekonsha controller I installed has been flawless. By the way, the error message shown when the stock unit is bypassed can easily be deleted by a knowledgeable tech. Not sure if any of this applies to 2013 models.
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Old 04-02-2014, 11:44 AM   #22
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Not to bring up an old post, but I have a 2013 RAM and was told this would work.... can anyone verify?

2013 Factory Dodge RAM New Integrated Trailer Brake Controller 82213474 | eBay
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Old 04-02-2014, 03:46 PM   #23
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Probably not much help, but it LOOKS just like the one in my '13 2500. I can't speak for what else might be needed in the whole process. ( IE...internal wiring, 7 pin plug harness, ECU Programming, etc...)


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Old 04-02-2014, 07:15 PM   #24
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Just in case anyone is wondering, my '14 Ram 2500 factory controller works perfectly with my trailer on the "Heavy Electric" setting. Very easy to adjust and after around 6000 miles towing I can pronounce it a winner.
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Old 06-22-2014, 07:22 PM   #25
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2011 31' Classic
Albemarle , North Carolina
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BAB,

I have a 2013 RAM 2500 Laramie 4x4 CC w/6.7L Cummins and I was wondering what sensitivity setting you use for your factory brake controller?
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Old 06-22-2014, 07:30 PM   #26
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Range Mark: I have my controller on "Heavy Electric" and I have the sensitivity at "7"...works perfectly for me, but you're pulling a heavier trailer with a 31....and you might need to go a touch higher. Think that a lot of this is just by trial and error. I get the clear impression the exhaust brakes on our trucks take a HUGE load off of the "not so hot" electric trailer drum brakes.
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Old 06-22-2014, 07:36 PM   #27
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BAB,

Absolutely, I pull my unit in PA where there is a lot of hills and sharp turns and exhaust brake works great. I too set my sensitivity at 7, sometimes I set it to 8.....really don't notice any difference. I'm a GM guy and I love this truck!! Greensboro, HMMMMM look south and wave.
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Old 06-22-2014, 08:15 PM   #28
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After changing the trailer from drum brakes to disc brakes, the factory brake controller in my 2012 Dodge 2500HD Cummins was completely incompatible with the hydraulic brake pump. We had to bypass the factory controller and not get error codes.

I installed a Tuson DirecLink NE brake controller that plugs into the truck OCDII port (paralled with my Insight Edge engine gage system) to get information on the truck's braking activities, so there are no swinging gimbals or deceleration sensors. The following three wires were changed and I have no error codes.

1. Came off drivers side positive battery terminal with #10 wire to a 30 amp auto reset circuit breaker on the firewall and then continued to the seven wire plug at the back of the truck.

2. Came off the driver's side negative battery terminal with a #10 wire to the seven wire plug at the back of the truck.

3. Took a #10 wire from the Tuson brake control blue wire to the seven wire plug at the back of the truck.

The three existing factory wires at the appropriate location were cut and capped and the new #10 wires were connected in their place. The Dodge factory controller does it's normal initialization display with no error codes with a trailer attached or not attached. The factory brake controller is totally unaware of trailer status with the truck.

One gets the theory capacity of 30 amps of power going to the trailer seven wire plug to charge the trailer battery when under way.

This should work with the more recent Dodge models as well and is how the Prodigy P3 could be wired to operate with no error codes.
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Old 09-15-2014, 11:24 AM   #29
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Although I pick-up the new '14 International Serenity this Saturday....

Shortly after buying the puller (very late-build 13' Ram 1500 Crew 6.4' Hemi 8-speed), I towed a Case 380CK on a 18' tandem flatbed with quad-electric brakes. The Laramie's integrated brake control worked fine, and after a few actuations to get the rust off the drum faces, it was pretty evident that current-flow to the trailer was metered very quickly, in near-direct proportion to the trucks service brake load, inertia, and vehicle speed. The trailer and load weighed-in at 9k approx, which is about as big a load as I've ever lugged with a small boy.
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Old 04-23-2015, 04:33 AM   #30
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I purchased a brake controller which is not the typical single-box-with-slide/squeeze-button-below-dash-cheapo... and am very pleased.

I overlooked it at first...then realized it was the perfect solution for a customized installation and the bonus is that it works so smoothly and is clearly a quality product. It is proportional and works on inertia as well as senses brake application at the tow vehicle. It took me about an hour to make the install.
While the exact model I purchased (from Vogt RV in Ft Worth) has a different brand-label on it.... I found that Hopkins distributes it thru Pep Boys and online at half the price.

Hopkins InSIGHT Flex-Mount Trailer Brake Controller - 1 to 4 Axles - Proportional Hopkins Brake Controller HM47297

It consists of 3 components, a dedicated harness, and is complemented with a tow-vehicle-specific adaptor harness. The 3 components consist of 1) a small "brain-box" or CPU/Inertia unit (about the size of a cigarette pkg) which mounts anywhere convenient as long as it's mounted fore/aft and relatively level (I mounted it with screws to the side of a support brace above my emer. brake but it could easily also be mounted using tie-wraps), 2) a small 1" monitor with LED readout of percentage-units of brake application (I mounted it atop my dash, adjacent to my left doorpost/beside the grab-handle, where it is easily viewed), and 3) a small control-box which incorporates a quality slide-switch to manually apply trailer brakes if necessary. (I mounted it on the dash, to the right of the steering column, below the ign switch, in front of my right knee which places it within easy-grasp for any emergencies.) The amount of brake application via that switch is simultaneously indicated on the monitor.

The units are connected with a supplied harness. The only additional need is the custom harness to adapt it to your particular tow vehicle. (This proved to be a slight issue with my 2012 Ram 1500 which I will explain later.) Most vehicles are covered with readily available adaptor-harnesses.

The separate-components design was initially intimidating...but after re-consideration I realized it to be the better way to do this after-all, as it allowed an installation which is unobtrusive and appears OEM. It works perfectly and seamlessly, despite Dodge/Ram's best efforts to prevent aftermarket controllers. The instructions are clear and the operation is simple and well-explained. I couldn't be happier...when I picked up my new-to-me 22' Sport and came to the first stop... it worked perfectly, smoothly, and without grabbiness or lurching. WELL DONE, I said to myself!

*Here's the only glitch I encountered, and you may not if you read the EDIT I've made below: The adaptor harness had to come from a U-Haul trailer facility, not Hopkins nor Pep Boys. The actual harness I used came from United RV center and had the correct mating plugs...but the U-Haul unit included wire color-code descriptions and I discovered (to my chagrin and good fortune BEFORE making the connection that the pins were criss-crossed incorrectly on the United harness. I fixed that problem using the color-code description in the U-Haul instructions, and the fix was to manipulate the retaining-clips within one of the custom plugs to relocate the pins so as to match up with the color-codes in proper order. Not a huge problem...but would likely have caused electrical problems in the Ram if I'd not checked the codes prior to hooking up the adaptor harness from United. The U-Haul harness would have fit perfectly, however I'd already paid for the United harness and didn't wish to go thru the return-process.)

Over-all.... this description may seem discouraging...but I promise you will be pleased with the quality of the brake controller and the appearance of the installation you choose to make.
Happy camping.

EDIT: Subsequently I discovered more info on this unit:
The Hopkins InSIGHT Flex-Mount Trailer Brake Controller, # HM47297, can be installed on your 2011 Dodge Ram 1500. (and 2012)

If your Ram is equipped with a factory 7-way connector, you will just need the Plug-In Simple Brake-Control Wiring Adapter, # HM53015, in order to install the brake controller. By using this harness you will not have to do any cutting or splicing of wires, just plug the one end into the brake controller and the other end into the OEM plug which is located under the dashboard to the left of the steering column taped to another harness near the emergency-brake pedal.

If your truck has a factory 4-way connector and OEM plug under the dash, you will also need a 4 Pole to 7 Pole Vehicle End Adapter, # 37185, in addition to part # HM53015

Begin the entire installation on a 2011-2012 RAm by removing two screws beneath the steering column kick-panel and jerking the panel loose from the panel (It is held with clips and two screws on the lower surface.) Also, the monitor may be mounted at the left doorpost by using a small screwdriver blade to pop out the plugs above/below the doorpost grabhandle and removing the two screws holding the doorpost cover in place. Be careful not to damage the air bag assy hidden behind the doorpost. The entire installation can be made without any further disassembly of the vehicle.

This video may be helpful:
http://www.etrailer.com/tv-Demo-Hopk...r-HM47297.aspx
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Old 04-23-2015, 05:15 AM   #31
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One more thing about mounting: The CPU and switch controller have provisions for using screws for mounting. The monitor was supplied with double stick tape which I abhor.
I drilled two 1/8" holes thru the base of the monitor and mounted it with screws to the plastic top of my panel beside the doorpost. Much better.
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Old 02-25-2019, 12:17 PM   #32
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Most of this thread is five years old +/- . . . FWIW.
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