Towing with a Tundra

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by J. Morgan

New Airstreams can be safely towed by just about all modern 1/2 ton trucks. This just is.

Correct, by in large. Although I wouldn't hitch up a 4.3l, regular cab short bed Silverado to a 30' classic. Proper specing is still relevant.
Now, if we could just get over that pesky payload issue in many configurations........

[J. Morgan]

I wouldn’t want to, but with WD and sway control I could safely tow an Airstream with a base V6. Probably update the tires though.

[J. Morgan]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

Correct, by in large. Although I wouldn't hitch up a 4.3l, regular cab short bed Silverado to a 30' classic. Proper specing is still relevant.
Now, if we could just get over that pesky payload issue in many configurations........

Payload issues, even with a base V6 can be ironed out if a person is willing.

Better than stock tires would probably be a must.. This in conjunction with a super stable hitch setup would probably make the combination more stable and more safe than most all class A Motorhomes....

Then there are air shocks.... TPMS..... etc...

[VernDiesel]

Rich I disagree it is only apples to apples if done in this way as it is what the vast majority of owners have. Most people / TT owners don't have their trucks built for them and even of the few that do only some of those select the HD rear.

Agree any well specked but not custom built with HD axle half ton can do a 30 Classic with a proper hitch and that is well set up per a scale. Naturally motor, gearing, trailer brake controller, etc help immensely in the mountains. And certainly air bags & load rated tires etc can also help with suspension dampening & stability etc. Payload.. beh I'm not addressing that again right now. Knowing the above chart and use of a WDH & scale is of real value to safely towing a 30 Classic.

BTW I have towed many new dry 30 & even a few 33 Classics from Ohio to the west coast with a half ton. Never any issue when you take time to set axle weights per WDH & load adjustments.

[dznf0g]

Vern, maxtow is more common than you portray. I bought mine off the lot. There were 3 in inventory, but 2 were black, and black is too much work.

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by J. Morgan

Payload issues, even with a base V6 can be ironed out if a person is willing.

Better than stock tires would probably be a must.. This in conjunction with a super stable hitch setup would probably make the combination more stable and more safe than most all class A Motorhomes....

Then there are air shocks.... TPMS..... etc...

I was pointing to short wheelbase and v6 power not being appropriate for a 30'er.

[billrector]

Here is my experience...

I have a 2012 4.6L V8 Tundra double cab with 20" wheels. I recently bought a 27' FC and just completed a 3000 mile trip with my new AS.

I had my hitch and Equilizer set up by my dealer when I bought the AS. However, it was set up with the trailer and the bed of my truck empty. I also got Rock Tamers and I cut them to size with the trailer attached to the Tundra.

The first night of my trip, with a full bed of generators, camp stoves, coolers, tables, chairs, etc. I notice the Rock Tamers were just off the ground (there is suppose to be 3-4" of clearance). When I got to my first destination, I raised the L-brackets one hole on the Equilizer part that is on the trailer. That made it better, but I still felt like the back of the truck was too low and the trailer had a slight forward tilt.

I then started reading about payload and discovered my potential problem with the Tundra. I believe my Tundra has about 1500 # of payload capability. With the AS tongue weight (adjusted for the Equilizer) and all the stuff in the back of the truck (yes, I weighed it). I am several hundred pounds overweight. I have not been to the CAT scales yet, but that my be what I need to do.

I started looking at F-250s but the incentives on them right now are pitiful and the price of the 6.7 diesel is incredibly high. I love my Tundra (it has NEVER been in the shop), but I don't see how I can make the payload work??

[VernDiesel]

2 percent of 2016s? Certainly starting from scratch a 3/4 ton would be a more ideal tool for the job of easily setting up & towing a wet 30 especially with a bed load but that was not the question posed.

Billrector make the priority getting your weight redistributed both with the hitch and relocating your load where reasonable per cat scale results. Ideal place for weight is above AS axles. Some even take the spare out from behind truck axle add a nice cover and relocate it behind / under the back of the AS. Many people leave some weight on the trailer jack when applying the WDH so as when the jack is lifted more is transfered. Also naturally there is different strength/weight transfer bars & washer adjustments.

[dznf0g]

Vern, I am not sure where you are going with this. 2% is low, but I really doubt it approaches 10% of production....mostly due to ignorance of it's availability and benefits. And I accept your premise that a 2500 takes a lot of the work out of determining proper specing, especially with very common ignorance of what math is needed for proper detailed specing....both at the sales person level and with the general public. But there are reasons, both financial as well as from a preference standpoint, to NOT just say that a 2500 is required or necessary. Here are some numbers from a very anal retentive spreadsheet I keep and modify for trips of varying load requirements. These are actual numbers from my longer summer trip to Upstate NY last summer. All my toys were loaded sans my 210 pound scooter. Other loads were at the heavy end of my personal gear and supplies, as this was a 16 day trip, with varying accommodations....dry camping to full hookups.

Stats: Silverado 6.2L, Maxtow 1500 and 2007 Classic 30'

Truck curb = 5540
FA curb = 3160
FAWR = 3950
RA curb = 2380
RAWR = 4300
Truck GVWR = 7600
Receiver rating = 1200 (w/WD)
GCWR = 17,700
Max payload = 2034 (per door jamb sticker)
Max trailer weight = 11,900

Weights on truck fully loaded after proper WD adjustments:

FA = 3515
RA = 3986
receiver load = 1052
GVW = 7500
GCVW = 15,784

As you can see, I am within specs while heavily loaded (and I take a lot of "crap"). So certainly a 150/1500 can do the job well. And I gotta tell you, this is probably the most pleasant tow vehicle I have ever driven, overall, both solo and while towing. I have used 2500 gassers and DuraMax, and they are fine, and have some benefit (more margin and payload). If that is your driving need and desire, have at it, nothing wrong with that. But the position that a properly configured and spec'ed 150/1500 isn't up to the task, is not valid....IMPO.

[J. Morgan]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

I was pointing to short wheelbase and v6 power not being appropriate for a 30'er.

Yeah the lack of power would suck, but not be a particular hazard, even base V6 models have more power than v8s of 20 years ago, my short wheelbase 08 pulls straight and stable with my Hensley.

There are a lot of posters here who contend that 1/2 tons are not up to the task of hauling an Airstream, like you, I think they are wrong about that.

[slowmover]

Originally Posted by J. Morgan

I never use cruise control and I drive the speed limit when it is safe and prudent to do so.

My guess is that your Kenworth wont get twice the MPG bobtail v. Loaded (dry van).

It's a test. If the gap is off by 50% it isn't just your driving habits where the attempt to be consistent holds. The point is to find where the problem lays.

What the specific numbers are don't matter. It's the percentage difference that does. And for that, the use of CC during the test for consistency (as well as all other pertaining).

[J. Morgan]

Originally Posted by slowmover

It's a test. If the gap is off by 50% it isn't just your driving habits where the attempt to be consistent holds. The point is to find where the problem lays.



What the specific numbers are don't matter. It's the percentage difference that does. And for that, the use of CC during the test for consistency (as well as all other pertaining).

Whatever it is, it is what it is. My mileage is about half depending on whether I’m towing towing or not towing.

To me, that is pretty good.

[DMT]

Originally Posted by billrector

Here is my experience...I love my Tundra (it has NEVER been in the shop), but I don't see how I can make the payload work??

I had an 09 F150 Platinum before my current 15 Tundra Ltd. Payload has been an issue for both, more so for the F150 probably due to its trim level and resultant configuration.

So as a Tundra owner and in the spirit of what this thread is about I would offer my experience. The low hanging fruit is to start with packing less in the truck bed. Then move what you can to the trailer. Take a hard look at what you actually used at the end of a camping trip versus what you brought. What you can leave at home may surprise you.

Other important considerations (I defer the priority to others) are to ensure you are using an efficient WD hitch (that is properly set up for your combination) and upgrade your tires commensurate with the load.

Folks here probably won’t like it but I also use Timbren overload rubber springs. I find it helps with control of see-sawing when traveling over washboards or undulations in the road. It doesn’t give any more load capacity though.

Final thought - drive slower. Speed limit or less.

Don

[Martee]

I just finished an 1800 mile towing trip; with a 2014 Tundra Platinum towing a brand new 2018 FC 25FB. Using a Reese Steadi Flex WD hitch. Everything went very well. Averaged 13.4 MPG in the Tow-Haul mode. Had 978Lbs Tounge weight. And a loaded truck bed with about 450 lbs cargo. Because of the overload...i added 8 psi additional air to all tires. Everything handled great.

[VernDiesel]

Actual seen tongue weight on a triple scale shows up in 20 pound increments. This 978 with WDH might actually be 920 or 940 on a scale or as seen by your truck. The WDH will move some of that 978 back onto the TT axles.

[Mollysdad]

If you buy a new tow vehicle every couple of years, get the Ford/Chevy that might save on gas (if that's important.)

If you keep a tow vehicle a long time, get the Toyota.

For me, big repair bills down the road were a bigger concern than a couple MPG.

BTW, towing I get 11.7 mpg, and as a daily driver I get 15.8 around town. Highway, 16.5.
(Tundra 5.7, tow package, Double cab, 6.5' bed. Leer tonneau.)

[Too tall]

I'm in the middle of adding a Tekonsha P3 brake controller to my 2016 Tundra (with factory brake controller). The factory controller is just "ok" even after getting a software fix ment to correct weak brake control.

By all accounts the Tekonsha P3 is the last word. I'll report back with good news.

If you do this upgrade pay close attention to getting the correct adapter for your model year wiring harness and it will be a 10 min. job.

This is the right stuff for a 2017 Tundra which came with factory brake controller (you remove it and replace with the Tekonsha):
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...ha/3017-P.html

FWIIW there is a neat adapter plate sold via Amazon that allows you to stuff the Tekonsha into the dash panel instead of drilling holes and hanging it.

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by Too tall

I'm in the middle of adding a Tekonsha P3 brake controller to my 2016 Tundra (with factory brake controller).

FWIIW there is a neat adapter plate sold via Amazon that allows you to stuff the Tekonsha into the dash panel instead of drilling holes and hanging it.

My 2015 Tundra did not have a factory controller, but did have prewiring for a brake controller. It should have been a 15 minute job, but I took off the panel so I could mount the bracket on the workbench.
Watch YouTube for installation. The panel pops off. I bought the $5 removal tool, but probably could have stuck my fingers in next to the steering column and pulled.
The hardest part was getting the two switches out. I finally used a tiny screwdriver into the catch and they fell out.
Before you buy the panel, imagine the controller in it. Reviewers say it sticks out too far. (The lever has to be outside) I felt it aimed too far horizontal and the screen would be hard to see. I mounted mine on the bracket, and my complaint is the glare on the screen is bad too.
I routed my cable out between the steering column and the panel and it worked great.
The P-3 is so seamless you'll think it's not working.

Do some research on the wiring adapter. I used the 3017 and it was a plug and play, no splicing. There's a number of wiring adaptors that all claim to be for the Tundra.

[wolf146]

Originally Posted by m.hony

I tow a 2013 Classic 30 with a 2007 Tundra 5.7.
I thought the gear ratios were 4:30.
Anyway, the Tundra with Equal-i-zer hitch does a great job towing my Classic 30.
If I ever get another truck, it will be another Tundra.
Some on this forum and others have dubbed me Mr. Toyota. I ain't mad at 'em. I love my truck.

I too use the 2006 5.7 L Tundra to pull a 30 foot 2004 Classic. Have over 60,000 miles on both and have been too the Rockies, and most of the National Parks out east of the Rockies with them both. I would get a Tundra again. Wolf146

[J. Morgan]

Originally Posted by wolf146

I too use the 2006 5.7 L Tundra to pull a 30 foot 2004 Classic. Have over 60,000 miles on both and have been too the Rockies, and most of the National Parks out east of the Rockies with them both. I would get a Tundra again. Wolf146

Some people will claim that your experience is meaningless..... lol