Tow vehicle

[crispyboy]

Originally Posted by trumpetguy

I have read the articles posted and will stick with my Ram. With the 3:92 rear end it has plenty of pulling power. I won’t have all the extra weight from batteries and solar so the classic may be close to what I have been towing. One article said Bilstein shocks would be beneficial. Any comments?

On three different vehicles I have upgraded to Bilstein brand shocks when the OEM's were worn out. VW Jetta, Jeep Grand Cherokee and Dodge 3/4 ton. Each time I have been very pleased with the results. I have tried other brands but they did not perform or last like the Bilsteins. The Bilsteins will ride a little rougher in the beginning until you get a few miles on them.


I can't say the upgraded shocks helped too much when towing, maybe a little bit of the porpoising effect on really rough roads but I find this has more to do with dialing in the weigh distribution hitch properly to get the best ride.


If your using your half ton truck take notice of the air pressure you are running in the trucks tires. A family member was towing with a F150 with the stock oem passenger rated tires. The truck wallowed about until we up'ed the pressure in the tires and the truck was rock solid thereafter. Check a tire pressure chart for your brand of tire vs the weight on the axle. Some folks have also upgraded to an LT tire on their half ton truck for better towing manners.


I hope you follow-up on this thread with your experiences after some seat time with your current truck. It may help others who are on the "1/2 ton vs 3/4 ton tow vehicle fence".

[GettinAway]

Originally Posted by trumpetguy

My Ram has Michelin LT tire on 20 inch wheels. Can’t do any better in my book.

I have the same tires and wheels on my Tundra. I went ahead and added the bilstein shocks. Positive change in my opinion. I’m pulling a small trailer compared to what you’ve got and are getting, but we just went 1000 miles and there were lots times it was difficult to feel the trailer at all. Heavy crosswinds going across Nebraska

[DKB_SATX]

Originally Posted by CBWELL

Good friend pulled over by DOT when he was pulling his triple axle fifth wheel trailer with the rear toy hauler garage. Was pulling with a single rear wheel Ram 3500 diesel. Was sent to scale and was over GCVW of his truck. Given a warning. Traded and bought a dually the next day. If he had been in an accident this COULD have had a lawsuit. I do not know of any pending lawsuits. There are many excellent YouTube video's that explain the ratings and limits. Well worth the watching. I am not a lawyer, but don't want to hire one to fight a lawsuit!!!

Where did this happen? In the US or Canada? If in the US, what state?

[slowmover]

Originally Posted by rgg123

I also own a 31 ft Classic and just "traded up" to an F250 6.7L diesel from an F250 6.2L gasser. Why? Because a drove 5100 miles through all kinds of terrain and the gasser was not up to the task. I had a decision to make: trade up, get a smaller/lighter RV, or limit my travels to flat terrain (not much fun). I have not yet been out with the diesel but driving it around I am very confident that my ride will be better, safer, and more enjoyable. I learned the hard way - go with the diesel.

The loneliness of ignorance. Common affliction.

Something was wrong with the engine? A diesel might be worthwhile when the trailer gets above 15,000-lbs. But these trailers are within the range of cars and SUVs. Any half ton would be fine.

Was it that a pair of panties got all twisted in having to slow on the upgrades? Not having educated ones self in handling a downgrade?

Running a gasser at or near WOT isn’t harmful. Long periods. A half hour or more. Longer . . as in ALL DAY. Is fine.

Knowing when to initiate downshifts manually doesn’t really change much of anything, but to some it feels better to maintain a higher speed a little longer. Same for the downgrade where it’s all about the descent speed. Some like to wind them up.

I can’t remember the last time I entered an Interstate above 30-mph. Unless the ramp was a genuine downgrade. Or if I’ve ever crested an upgrade within 15-mph of the lower limit. Still somehow covered almost 100k this calendar year without incident.

The cars we used fifty or forty years ago slowed, too. Solo or towing. So what? TT as heavy as a 31. With more people. US, Canada and deep into Mexico.

Maybe someone will explain why these panty-wearers get them so twisted up in normal operating circumstances?.

Or why an irrational fear starts with a bad TV choice and then leads to buying an even worse tow vehicle.

Versus some education?

Pretty safe to assume the WD wasn’t right. That would’ve been where to start as it costs nothing to check but some time. Second is tire pressure on both vehicles. Then to test braking distances. What tires and better shocks next. Etc. Chances were high the load in the bed wasn’t either the type or the weight to justify the risk::benefit of a pickup.

A screwed up vehicle spec is like playing with loaded guns. Only takes once.

Best to look before that leap to worse-yet by spec. What’s reasonable and what isn’t. Several around here have done this close to or in excess of fifty years. And some of them will run you through the basics.

Hard to get somewhere by constantly refusing a starting point.

Take a page from that book, OP. Do it badly, or do it well. A pickup is the dead last choice. And it’s the same RV’ers that can’t even get the basics of what DOES matter — the hitch rigging — correct or close. It ain’t rocket science. It’s eighth grade level physics. Leverage.

Can’t be bothered to establish a numerical baseline from measurements and truck scale values. Or balk at buying a hitch or upgrading brakes and brake controller which wouldn’t be 10% of the cost of ONE of the two vehicles.

Take your time. It ain’t in these threads for the most part.
.

[Howard L.]

Originally Posted by trumpetguy

Presently towing our 2007 International 28 with a Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi. Seriously considering a 2007 31 foot Classic. The classic is 1500 pounds heavier but the tongue weight is 670 vs. 880.

Do I need a 3/4 ton diesel, or will my Ram handle. My wdh is a Blue Ox.

Yes your Ram will handle it and yes you need the 3/4 ton. Take a look at your family and loved ones, then take a look at the suspension difference between the 1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks. Question answered.

[rgg123]

Originally Posted by Howard L.

Yes your Ram will handle it and yes you need the 3/4 ton. Take a look at your family and loved ones, then take a look at the suspension difference between the 1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks. Question answered.

I have stated this before but will say it again. I own a 30 ft Classic and just upgraded to an F250 diesel because my F250 gasser was NOT up to the task in any sort of elevation - up or down! Every "white knuckle" event made me look over at my wife and say "Safety first".

[jimfa440]

I drive a 2016 Ram 1500 ECO Diesel and pull a 30' Airstream with a 820# tongue weight. No problems here.

[DC Bruce]

Having driven 30,000 miles (cross-country twice) and throughout the mountain West with a GMC 1/2 ton powered by the 420 hp gas engine pulling an FC 27, I see no reason to go to a 3/4 ton, especially a diesel, which is considerably more expensive to buy and more expensive to operate. For the “mo’ powah!” crowd, remember that a 3/4 ton diesel truck weighs between 1,000 and 2,000 lbs. more than a 1/2 ton. The Cummins engine in the RAM is especially heavy. If your weights are ok (use a commercial scale to verify), then OP’s plan of sticking to his current truck sounds good to me, especially given the location of his planned use. The only reason I can think of to get a big diesel (not that wimpy ecodiesel) to pull any Airstream is that the exhaust brake on the diesel probably provides more engine braking than even a big displacement gas engine like mine. Having test-driven all the 3/4 tons, has and diesel, I can say that they would be much inferior as daily drivers to a half ton, especially a “short bed” half ton like I have. If there’s money burning a hole in your pocket, get a Pro Pride hitch and have it installed by someone with experience. Mine was installed by the folks at Colonial Airstream in NJ and it works perfectly. No funny business with the trailer and total control. I read bad experience stories about this and the similar Hensley hitch on the forum. Every one of those involves either an amateur installation or a used and possibly damaged hitch, or both. Have good tires properly inflated on your TV and you’re good to go. And my towing fuel economy is the same as is reported by the folks with the 3/4 ton diesels:11-13 mpg@60 mph. Given the 65 mph speed rating on the trailer tires, that seems a prudent speed.

[CaliDreaming]

Originally Posted by trumpetguy

Presently towing our 2007 International 28 with a Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi. Seriously considering a 2007 31 foot Classic. The classic is 1500 pounds heavier but the tongue weight is 670 vs. 880.

Do I need a 3/4 ton diesel, or will my Ram handle. My wdh is a Blue Ox.

I pulled my 2003 31 foot Classic with a 1/2 ton Ford F150 for years. It is totally fine except when descending very steep long grades like over mountain passes. It would get a little squirly due to the weight. Not unmanageable, but sometimes white knuckles. when that truck got totaled, I got a F250 diesel. Wow, what a difference. It is magical and automatically downshifts on steep descending grades. No more white knuckles.

[CMTampa]

I replaced my 25' Safari with a new Classic 30 last year before replacing my 2014 Ram 1500 Limited. My maiden voyage was just across the state to Flagler Beach in Florida, a trip I have made for years, so I thought all would be fine. Big mistake, only a couple of miles from home on the Interstate I was passed by a semi. The trailer sway began, then the truck started to sway. I had no control. Either the divine hand of God or the truck applied the trailer brake automatically and straightened me out. We did continue to our destination on back roads and returned the same way. After that experience I would never tow a Classic 30 with a 1/2 ton. There were likely several contributing factors so no need to speculate where I went wrong. Although I loved that truck, the first thing I did was replace the tow vehicle and install a Pro Pride Hitch. I now tow with a 2017 3500 Cummins Mega Cab 4x4 dually. Some will say it is over kill and perhaps it is. However; now there is no problem towing anywhere up or down steep grades and absolutely no driver fatigue. I will never jeopardize my family again, Safety first.

[Countryboy59]

Originally Posted by rgg123

I have stated this before but will say it again. I own a 30 ft Classic and just upgraded to an F250 diesel because my F250 gasser was NOT up to the task in any sort of elevation - up or down! Every "white knuckle" event made me look over at my wife and say "Safety first".

I wouldn’t tow that with less than a one ton chassis. Big, big difference between the 250 and the 350, just had mine on the hoist and it’s a big difference.

[CRH]

What are the big differences in 250's and 350's? I know the gassers get different transmissions.

As far as the new Super Duties go, I thought a 250 with the camper package has the same ratings as a 350.

[Sodbust1]

Being in my mid 60s,,, I remember when 90% of all A$ were pulled with cars.. Very seldom did you ever see a trailer behind a PU..
My great uncle had a 31' A$ and pulled it all over the USA with a 1956 Olds with a 324cu in gas engine and 4 speed hydromatic.

I have a Ram 1500 and the 28" Overlander... Our A$ is the lightest load I pull. Moving 10 round bales I am pulling right at 10 tons,.. Pulling fertilizer tanks,, is always around 7 ton.. or twice the weight of our Overlander..

Understanding that being a farmer I dont have a 401K,,,, or much extra money other than what's needed to put out a crop.. But why does everyone feel they need a $50,000 pu when they already have a good pu that cost $30,000 that is doing the job well...

If you all wish to have a real good stable TV,,, get a single axle semi truck..Super stopping air brakes, big horn,, and huge tires.. And I kid you not,, will last twice as long as any new pu made,, and do it using the same amount or less for fuel.. I am seeing more farmers pulling trailers around with a small semi tractors for this reason.

The market if flooded with real nice low mile small semi trucks. Around 500,000 miles for around $35,000... Dont worry,, 500,000 miles on a used semi is about the first 1/3rd of its life. Many I have seen or driven with 1.4 million + miles on the clock and still run out just fine.

Fuel mpg,,, I have a T600 KW 18 wheeler.. Running empty,,( 26,500 LBS) I have seen 12 to 13.5 mpg pulling the 60 foot trailer. The tractor bare back I have see 15 to 16.5 mpg..

The L10 , and M11 Cummins are great engines. My KW runs a 11L Detroit.. Just something to think about.. If you feel you need a larger TV,, go all the way and have a life time unit.
Sodbust

[ITSNO60]

Originally Posted by CRH

What are the big differences in 250's and 350's? I know the gassers get different transmissions.

As far as the new Super Duties go, I thought a 250 with the camper package has the same ratings as a 350.

I have the same question, unless something has changed they are nearly the same truck, or at least they used to be. My 2002 F-350 is the same truck as the F-250 of the same year except for 4" spring blocks instead of the 2", and one overload leaf spring. Oh and the fender badge. Now the dualies are another story.

[Daquenzer]

Originally Posted by CMTampa

I replaced my 25' Safari with a new Classic 30 last year before replacing my 2014 Ram 1500 Limited. My maiden voyage was just across the state to Flagler Beach in Florida, a trip I have made for years, so I thought all would be fine. Big mistake, only a couple of miles from home on the Interstate I was passed by a semi. The trailer sway began, then the truck started to sway. I had no control. Either the divine hand of God or the truck applied the trailer brake automatically and straightened me out. We did continue to our destination on back roads and returned the same way. After that experience I would never tow a Classic 30 with a 1/2 ton. There were likely several contributing factors so no need to speculate where I went wrong. Although I loved that truck, the first thing I did was replace the tow vehicle and install a Pro Pride Hitch. I now tow with a 2017 3500 Cummins Mega Cab 4x4 dually. Some will say it is over kill and perhaps it is. However; now there is no problem towing anywhere up or down steep grades and absolutely no driver fatigue. I will never jeopardize my family again, Safety first.

I have towed a 28’ through 2 hours of city traffic in Milwaukee and Chicago. And the truck traffic is awful. First time with a Blue Ox and it was not comfortable. But then I put on a Propride. No sway. Some push. Very easy to drive though. Cost about $3,000 for the hitch set up. I use a 2017 F150 1/2 ton Ecoboost. You should have started with the hitch set up first. Would have been much cheaper. I’ll bet it would have solved your problem.

Anyone who has an issue with a 1/2 ton should do these 3 things before going with a big expensive diesel that costs a fortune to buy and operate:
1). Get different tires.
2). Get better shocks.
3). Get a Hensley or Propride hitch.

[rmkrum]

Yup. My setup exactly. Carefully tuned each time I set out. Also driven very conservatively.

[Countryboy59]

Originally Posted by ITSNO60

I have the same question, unless something has changed they are nearly the same truck, or at least they used to be. My 2002 F-350 is the same truck as the F-250 of the same year except for 4" spring blocks instead of the 2", and one overload leaf spring. Oh and the fender badge. Now the dualies are another story.

Nope, not the same. Check the payload, mine is almost 4000lb. I had a chance to get a good deal on a diesel F250 but took it to my mechanic who showed me the difference. He laughed out loud when I told him I thought the only difference was one leaf in the springs.

The frame on the F350 is beefier in the center. If I had bought that 250 I would have needed airbags to haul some of the stuff I carry. And the added cost of the 350 is not that much.

The transmissions for gas and diesel are both heavy duty but obviously different because of the different rpm/power ranges but were actually not as different as I expected. Anyway, glad I checked. I’ve been reading Internet legends about how similar they are for years.

[ITSNO60]

Originally Posted by Countryboy59

The frame on the F350 is beefier in the center..

I have never seen this anywhere and I find it tough to believe. Some of the F-350's have a larger center section on the rear differential but I can't believe Ford would use a different frame unless you are talking about bolt/rivet in cross members. I can tell you with certainty that is not the case on the 99-08 Superduty. I can also say with certainty that the only differences in the gas/diesel transmissions from those years is the bell housing mounting pattern and the electronic programming, and the married transfer case on the 4X4s.

[Countryboy59]

Originally Posted by ITSNO60

I have never seen this anywhere and I find it tough to believe. Some of the F-350's have a larger center section on the rear differential but I can't believe Ford would use a different frame unless you are talking about bolt/rivet in cross members. I can tell you with certainty that is not the case on the 99-08 Superduty. I can also say with certainty that the only differences in the gas/diesel transmissions from those years is the bell housing mounting pattern and the electronic programming, and the married transfer case on the 4X4s.

I’m talking about newer ones, not 99-08. Had ‘em on the hoist side by side. The axle and frame are made to carry more weight.

[ITSNO60]

Originally Posted by Countryboy59

I’m talking about newer ones, not 99-08. Had ‘em on the hoist side by side. The axle and frame are made to carry more weight.

Sorry nothing personal but I am going to have to call BS on this one.


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