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Old 11-05-2020, 10:01 AM   #1
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1966 17' Caravel
SW , Missouri
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The White 2006 Tundra Gets Some TLC, Improvements and Adventures

Where this started:


After 6 hours of driving the truck is in the driveway. 117k miles. 14 years old. The mileage is Lower than what I was looking for (and it cost a little more than I intended), but the miles and trim are pretty stellar. The biggest issue is the owner lived on some gravel so I have some cleanup and probably a few suspension parts that will need some TLC. The timing belt is nearly 30k past due so no towing with it to the Buffalo Point rally this weekend.



This truck is going to be a multi trick pony. It needs to tow well. It needs to handle a load of firewood well. It needs to handle some minor off-roading and do it comfortably.





The to do list a a work in progress but here it is:

  • Timing Belt
  • Transfer case fluid change
  • Rear diff fluid change
  • Front diff fluid change
  • Lube drive shaft
  • Replace spark plugs
  • Tires


  • Clean engine bay
  • Clean camper shell
  • Clean bed liner
  • Clean under body
  • Paint frame
  • Clay Bar exterior
  • Wax Exterior


  • Brake Controller
  • Floor liners
  • Wheel center caps or wheels
  • Bluetooth
  • Double din stereo with screen for backup camera and 1 or more additional input
  • Backup camera
  • Inspect speakers, refoam if needed
  • Headlight wire harness upgrade
  • Reverse light improvements
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Old 11-05-2020, 10:30 AM   #2
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2006 Tundra TV

Nice truck. Couple additions to your list.

Take a good look at all brake components. These trucks do not have the biggest brakes around. Front disc setup is prone to warping rotors. The pads are very easy to change but are rather small. The rear brakes are old style drums. They do the job but nothing more. Keep an eye on the emergency brake cable setup. They tend to bind/stick at the bellcrank that is mounted to the backing plate. This is a cable setup. Just keep the moving parts lubed and you should be fine.

The driveshaft carrier bearing is another spot that may need attention. Easy to replace and not expensive if you do it yourself.

If the front struts need to be replaced as a result of the gravel road treatment make sure you replace the bearing plates at the same time.

Timing belt replacement is critical as this engine self destructs if belt breaks while running. Nasty business.

If the headlight lenses are milky you can get replacements on "Rockauto" for less than $60.00 for a pair!! They are plug and play and it takes maybe 10 per side to switch out.

Have fun with the new wheels.
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Old 11-05-2020, 10:38 AM   #3
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Two more tips

Do a real good Brake Fluid flush. At 14 years old if this has not been done it is long overdue.

Do not let anybody do a "Transmission Fluid Flush" on the truck. This is a sealed transmission with no dipstick. Have it serviced only at the Toyota dealer and the fluid service should be a pan/gasket change and replenish of fluid.

What size AS are you going to tow with it??
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Old 11-05-2020, 11:04 AM   #4
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I had an 03 tundra, but it was too small for my 25 so I went with the newer with the 5.7 motor. Does yours have drum brakes in the rear? Mine did and it is something to keep an eye on.
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Old 11-05-2020, 02:07 PM   #5
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Love your new truck!

Youíll probably have to replace the parking brake bell cranks, theyíre cheap and easy to diy.

The rear brakes are know for not adjusting on their own, a few minutes with a brake spoon every oil change and you wonít have any problems.

The underside of your truck looks just like mine, I did blow a brake line right at the block under the drivers seat, give that area a generous spray of fluid film and flush brake fluid regularly.
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Old 11-05-2020, 04:02 PM   #6
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Rear Drum Brakes on Tundra

Quote:
Originally Posted by azflycaster View Post
I had an 03 tundra, but it was too small for my 25 so I went with the newer with the 5.7 motor. Does yours have drum brakes in the rear? Mine did and it is something to keep an eye on.
All Tundras had Rear Drum Brakes up to the 2006 model year. The 2007 and up was a completely different truck. And you are correct that a 2006 and older Tundra is not enough truck to tow a 25' AS.
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Old 11-06-2020, 08:14 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uraljohn View Post
All Tundras had Rear Drum Brakes up to the 2006 model year. The 2007 and up was a completely different truck. And you are correct that a 2006 and older Tundra is not enough truck to tow a 25' AS.

This depends on the year of the airstream.
A first gen Tundra is plenty of truck for a vintage 25í, but not enough for the current heavy trailers.
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Old 11-06-2020, 10:44 AM   #8
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My experience

I had a 2002 with the 4.7. I absolutely loved the truck but it was an inadequate tow vehicle. I agree with everyone else about the poorly designed brakes. I lost track of all the pad and rotor combinations I tried. I used it to pull a 25 foot safari. On a back country downhill I lost the brakes. By the thinnest of margins I managed to get it stopped with lots of hill to go. First gear, manual use of the brake controller and keeping the speed down - everything I could think of and still no control. Very scary - trailer and truck brakes were so hot I had to wait over an hour before I could move again. Googling suggested there were those that converted the rear axle to rotors and did other conversions. I never did it - I did love the truck that much. As for pulling it was marginal - hills required more patience than I had. A diesel 3/4 ton was how I addressed to problem. One needs to be smart when selecting a tow vehicle. One of - if not the most - important aspects of enjoyable trailering.
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Old 11-06-2020, 11:28 AM   #9
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Peter417 - First time in awhile that I have seen a "project" TV! Usually it is with a vintage trailer reno. You are starting with one of the most dependable pickups around and are towing a vintage trailer with it! Enjoy the process and do not lament that you do not have Apple Carplay inside the truck. Aftermarket may have something that will fit in your dash? Include the backup camera and you will be as "good as new" in your spiffy TV!
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Old 11-07-2020, 08:33 AM   #10
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Nice rig. I bought a 2004 a few years ago and have been extremely happy with it. I just put a new timing belt and water pump on at 102K and my mechanic was trying to get me to wait for another 10 - 15k. You will want to do the water pump at the same time as it has to come off to get to the belt. I use mine to pull a 26' Argosy with no issues.
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Old 11-10-2020, 01:24 PM   #11
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1966 17' Caravel
SW , Missouri
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Posts: 167
Quote:
Originally Posted by uraljohn View Post
Nice truck. Couple additions to your list.

Take a good look at all brake components. These trucks do not have the biggest brakes around. Front disc setup is prone to warping rotors. The pads are very easy to change but are rather small. The rear brakes are old style drums. They do the job but nothing more. Keep an eye on the emergency brake cable setup. They tend to bind/stick at the bellcrank that is mounted to the backing plate. This is a cable setup. Just keep the moving parts lubed and you should be fine.

The driveshaft carrier bearing is another spot that may need attention. Easy to replace and not expensive if you do it yourself.

If the front struts need to be replaced as a result of the gravel road treatment make sure you replace the bearing plates at the same time.

Timing belt replacement is critical as this engine self destructs if belt breaks while running. Nasty business.

If the headlight lenses are milky you can get replacements on "Rockauto" for less than $60.00 for a pair!! They are plug and play and it takes maybe 10 per side to switch out.

Have fun with the new wheels.

I just dropped the truck off to have the timing belt done. Hopefully nothing else major is found.
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Old 11-10-2020, 01:26 PM   #12
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1966 17' Caravel
SW , Missouri
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superChop View Post
Peter417 - First time in awhile that I have seen a "project" TV! Usually it is with a vintage trailer reno. You are starting with one of the most dependable pickups around and are towing a vintage trailer with it! Enjoy the process and do not lament that you do not have Apple Carplay inside the truck. Aftermarket may have something that will fit in your dash? Include the backup camera and you will be as "good as new" in your spiffy TV!



Yep, android auto/ blutooth and a backup camera will probably happen in the next few months. That can all be done for about half of an average car payment.
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Old 11-10-2020, 01:30 PM   #13
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1966 17' Caravel
SW , Missouri
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Posts: 167
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pullingtin View Post
I had a 2002 with the 4.7. I absolutely loved the truck but it was an inadequate tow vehicle. I agree with everyone else about the poorly designed brakes. I lost track of all the pad and rotor combinations I tried. I used it to pull a 25 foot safari. On a back country downhill I lost the brakes. By the thinnest of margins I managed to get it stopped with lots of hill to go. First gear, manual use of the brake controller and keeping the speed down - everything I could think of and still no control. Very scary - trailer and truck brakes were so hot I had to wait over an hour before I could move again. Googling suggested there were those that converted the rear axle to rotors and did other conversions. I never did it - I did love the truck that much. As for pulling it was marginal - hills required more patience than I had. A diesel 3/4 ton was how I addressed to problem. One needs to be smart when selecting a tow vehicle. One of - if not the most - important aspects of enjoyable trailering.

The 2005 and 2006 double cabs have slightly improved brakes and about 40 more hp/tq. If the brakes do seem to be an issue I will look into the GX460 brake upgrade. With that said I am towing 17ft caravel so there will be no issues with that.
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Old 11-10-2020, 01:35 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter417 View Post
The 2005 and 2006 double cabs have slightly improved brakes and about 40 more hp/tq. If the brakes do seem to be an issue I will look into the GX460 brake upgrade. With that said I am towing 17ft caravel so there will be no issues with that.

The brakes on my 23í Safari are so good that my truck stops better with the trailer than without!

Good pass and rotors make a difference.
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Old 11-10-2020, 01:36 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter417 View Post
I just dropped the truck off to have the timing belt done. Hopefully nothing else major is found.

Good time to replace the radiator while itís all apart and coolant being replaced anyway.
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Old 11-12-2020, 10:51 AM   #16
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1966 17' Caravel
SW , Missouri
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I got just a bit over 200k on my 4runner radiator before it started leaking slowly. I am hoping the tundra will get at least that.





I got the truck back from the shop. I got a pretty clean bill of health so that was a bit of a relief. Before I took it in I got the first round of cleaning done under the hood. It was filthy. Most of the underside of the truck looks the same.
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Old 11-12-2020, 10:58 AM   #17
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Cab Off

The bed, cab and in between are filthy from gravel dust. I after coming home from the shop I was able to get the cab off. Now I am almost ready to start doing some intense cleaning on this truck. The cab and bed smell like gasoline so I will be working on fixing that. Eventually I plan to have a camping setup back there and that smell must go.



If you look close you can see how dusty the rails of the bed are.
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Old 11-16-2020, 10:08 AM   #18
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I put a few hundred miles on the new timing belt and everything is going well. I am really starting to enjoy this truck.



The last owner replaced the front struts with some generic big-o tire product. I suspect that they have one part number for all first gen tundras. This iteration is significantly heavier than a 2wd reg cab v6 tundra. On a relatively mundane intersection I found the front bumpstops with ease. I suspect that the sight of a washboard road will send these struts to their grave. I will probably address that over the winter. The back seemed alright while hauling a few hundred pounds of scrap metal and the shell. The back has new KYB shocks.

I am still in cleanup mode right now. I pulled the running boards off the clean up the massive amounts of rock mud and gravel out. Now that they are off I am not sure I will put them back on.



This week I plan to get the pickup on some ramps so I can start prepping the frame for some fresh paint. This is how I have managed the old 4runner for the last dozen years or so and it looks pretty sharp underneath. We don't see the snow and salt that a lot of you do.


I have a few rattles that I need to take care of. The drivers side mirror is a bit loose at the hinge. It is not to noticeable on flat roads but it definitely messes up the toyota door feel/sound when closing the door. The dash also has a rattle that seems to be common. I think some strategic rubber wedging will take care of all of it. I may not be able to take care of all of the dash rattle until I get into the stereo project.



The paint on this truck was not to scratched up but it was nearly flat. After some research I have discovered that toyota still uses a single stage paint. It looks like a will be able to put the cyclo to work on something other than aluminum. I think this truck is going to have to have a regular round of polishing to keep it looking good. Has anyone used the meguire m105 or m205 with the cyclo?
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Old 11-16-2020, 08:51 PM   #19
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Are you sure about the single stage paint? My Ď05 is base clear.
I claybar and nufinish by hand spring and fall and the truck looks pretty good for never having been inside over night.
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Old 11-17-2020, 08:02 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AldeanFan View Post
Are you sure about the single stage paint? My ‘05 is base clear.
I claybar and nufinish by hand spring and fall and the truck looks pretty good for never having been inside over night.
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All my research says it is. I won't know for sure until I get some polish on it. My understanding is that the single stage paint used on nearly all white Toyotas in the last 20 years is the same. It is not like the old single stage paint that always lost oils and needed to be regularly replenished. It does oxidize just the same though. I suspect that keeping a coat of wax on it like you have done has kept it in tip top shape. I like your other toy hiding in the reflection... I had a very similar routine for my old pickup. I clay bar when needed but I don't like striping all my wax off unless I feel the embedded contaminants. Anyways a good bath and clay bar are just about next on the list.



I got the framed scrubbed down last night. It was cold dark and windy and I was laying in the gravel. I will get a new layer of black paint on on the frame today. Then I am moving up top. How do you maintain your frame up in Canada?
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