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Old 05-06-2019, 05:29 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc Foster View Post
Hey there, I also live in Frederick. I tow my 30 footer with a Ford F250 and a diesel. We tow cross country every year so we cross the Rockies and other mountain ranges out there every year and a diesel in my opinion is the only way to go. It is just so much easier, plus I can maintain highway speed, even accelerate if need be going up any mountain grade.
I went up and back to Rocky Gap state park this weekend, and there are a few steep grades, Sideling Hill for example. With the diesel brake and the push button shift on the gear selector, I don't even have to touch the brakes at all when going down these steep grades. The diesel pulls like the trailer is not even back there. It makes it so effortless if you pay attention to the grades. I pulled with a 5.7L Tundra for several years before that.
Hey Doc, good to see another local Airstreamer. We also went to Rocky Gap last summer and it wasn't bad with our set up but it was part of what made me realize that if we start loading up more I will want a stouter tow vehicle. Especially as we will be moving out to the west (and "real" mountains!) when we retire in 7-8 years).
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Old 05-06-2019, 11:21 AM   #22
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I would not get a diesel unless you plan to sell it as soon as the warranty wears out (any brand). If you were going to pull your trailer with a slide in camper in the back then get the F350.



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Quote:
Originally Posted by DewTheDew View Post
I do not know. When we start to set up for the future I will weigh things out and decide what I need. I have seen some payload numbers for 3/4 ton Fords with the diesel and they aren't super high. It will depend on how much I want to load it up, but I am pretty sure that from a payload perspective I will want a 3/4 ton as I am bumping up against that limit with my current set up when I take the grandkids and have things loaded up.
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Old 05-06-2019, 03:03 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by DewTheDew View Post
... So, my question is; what do I need to change in the hitch or other if I am replacing a 1/2 ton with, say, a 1 ton? I currently have a Equalizer hitch with 1,000 lb bars.
In my experience, your same load bars will work fine.

I tow a Classic 25' with both a Toyota Tundra (1/2 ton) and a 20 year old Ford F350 that has extra leaf springs installed (similar to F550), and use the same Equalizer 1000# set up with each. Is absolutely mandatory with the Tundra ton; without load bars the rear of the truck is slammed - only did that once for a flat 4 mile tow, and I won't do that again, even for a shorter distance.

With the F350, if I'm towing to a local campground (~5 miles), I don't bother with the load bars as the rear of the truck only sags like 1/4 of an inch with the Airstream hooked up. Although the ride in the F350 is much better when the load bars are in place.

Good luck!
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Old 05-06-2019, 04:09 PM   #24
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I went from my F150 pulling 2 different 25' AS's over 5 year period, using 1000lb bars with my Blue Ox Sway Pro. If your going up to a F250 or 350, likely you may have to adjust your hitch ball up. I don't agree you need any additional weight adjustment if your tongue weight is as you say; 800-900lbs...(have you gone to the scales to check this yet??) You should be fine if accurate numbers you mention.

You will like the payload and performance of the 3/4T or 1T. Not much difference in ride of either and not much difference in cost. I got the diesel and although I miss driving the 1/2T F150 around town when not towing, I love the F250 when I am towing...night and day feel. Think you will be happy with the move..
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Old 05-07-2019, 05:41 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by DewTheDew View Post
So, my question is; what do I need to change in the hitch or other if I am replacing a 1/2 ton with, say, a 1 ton? I currently have a Equalizer hitch with 1,000 lb bars. I would imagine that something like an Air Safe would be good? Should I reduce the bar weight down some? I can drop the hitch at the same height and I guess I could measure the front-end deflection as a first shot at weight distribution, but I am not sure how much it is even necessary (other than sway) with a one-ton. Maybe it is with a 3/4 ton.
You may be pleasantly surprised to find out that your 3/4 ton truck does not need a weight distribution hitch to pull a 27FC. In my case I am towing a 28FC with a RAM 2500 diesel. The diesel engine is heavy enough to balance out the tongue weight of the loaded trailer such that I achieve a near perfect 52/48 rear/front weight ratio. My truck axles are both loaded to 78-79% of their GAWR. Concerning sway, this is not an issue. There is no perceptible sway, so I am good to go towing on the ball.

If you already have the hitch and you want to use it then you should only put a very light load on the springs. You should strive for a 50/50 weight distribution and no more. Note that there are theories out there that say you should have more weight on the rear axle than on the front axle for safest handling. I've seen 60/40 being touted as the ideal weight distribution.
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Old 05-07-2019, 06:05 AM   #26
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Old 05-07-2019, 10:23 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by out of sight View Post
You may be pleasantly surprised to find out that your 3/4 ton truck does not need a weight distribution hitch to pull a 27FC. In my case I am towing a 28FC with a RAM 2500 diesel. The diesel engine is heavy enough to balance out the tongue weight of the loaded trailer such that I achieve a near perfect 52/48 rear/front weight ratio. My truck axles are both loaded to 78-79% of their GAWR. Concerning sway, this is not an issue. There is no perceptible sway, so I am good to go towing on the ball.

If you already have the hitch and you want to use it then you should only put a very light load on the springs. You should strive for a 50/50 weight distribution and no more. Note that there are theories out there that say you should have more weight on the rear axle than on the front axle for safest handling. I've seen 60/40 being touted as the ideal weight distribution.
Yea, and you don't need to wear a seatbelt either...till you get into an accident! Using a WDH is common sense, especially with a larger AS like a 27'...least for most of us it is.
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Old 05-07-2019, 11:26 AM   #28
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Couldn't say it any better. But then again, Airstreams don't sway
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Old 05-07-2019, 11:44 AM   #29
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But then again, Airstreams don't sway
But only if you have a large enough tow vehicle!

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Old 05-07-2019, 12:27 PM   #30
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I admit that I am sold on the hitch set up that I have so I won't go there.
If I had some other brand of hitch I would most definitely have an Airsafe hitch with a 3/4 ton truck. My reasoning stems from our current trailer which had a bad case of front end separation which I believe could be attributed to a rough riding vehicle by the previous owner. I have always liked the idea behind the Airsafe.
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Old 05-07-2019, 01:03 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by gypsydad View Post
Yea, and you don't need to wear a seatbelt either...till you get into an accident! Using a WDH is common sense, especially with a larger AS like a 27'...least for most of us it is.
Common sense can be deceptive. It is better to go by analysis and then to confirm the results of the analysis by testing. I suspect that weight distribution hitches sometimes cause more trouble than they are worth. Some people over-adjust their bars to put too much weight on the front axle and not enough on the rear axle. Perhaps that's why their Airstreams sway. There may not be enough friction force on the rear tires to control the load.
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Old 05-07-2019, 02:35 PM   #32
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Well, you have heard just about every possible option out there. I always like the "get a 1 ton" responses.


Personally, I agree that the 3/4 ton is a good idea especially because you plan to carry more stuff around. I like my Equalizer and I am glad that you do too. That Andy guy did not like Equalizers....at all. When properly set up and adjusted they are very dependable. Don't change the bars. If you do you have to change the entire hitch. And, as pointed out the bars are gauged by the weight of the tongue. My guess is that with the stiffer suspension of a 3/4 ton you will not need as much pressure on the hitch to level the truck trailer combo. Having less force will reduce the chances of any damage to your trailer or hitch.



I got a new Tundra in 2017. My 2008 Tundra was basically the same but when I moved the hitch to the new truck I noticed that I had to make some adjustments. I was able to lighten up the hitch a bit to get it level. Maybe the new truck sits a bit higher, or the new springs are a bit different but it did make a difference. I am still level, it is a bit quieter and it is easier to hook and unhook.
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Old 05-09-2019, 08:50 PM   #33
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We started towing with a 2001 Dodge 2500 Cummins Reg Cab/Long Bed. It was my old farm truck and had been sprung extra heavy for off-road work. It rode like a deuce-and-a-half. For this reason, my wife wanted something smoother and roomier, as we hoped to spend a *lot* of time in it.


We originally used just an Equal-i-zer hitch with the 2500, but found that, after a particularly rough stretch of road, we'd have drawers and cabinets open and pillows on the floor. Obviously, the Airstream was getting jostled by both the roads and the truck suspension.


We bought a 2015 Ram 3500 Crew Cab/Long Bed Cummins. One of the reasons was increased payload vs. increased cost. The 3500 gave us 2000 lbs more payload than the 2500 - and only increased the sticker around $400. That's too good to pass up. Axle weights are 6,000 lb max on front and 7,000 lb max on rear. Now we carry all the "battle rattle" we need or want, and are still under all stated capabilities by a couple thousand pounds. Last trip showed 17,880 combined weight TT/TV per CAT scale.


Once concession to upgrading to the 3500 was that I purchased an AirSafe Class VI, and mounted that in combination with my Equal-i-zer WD hitch. Still use the 1000 lb bars. It puts the ball about 21" behind the receiver, but has performed flawlessly with over 20,000 miles on this combination.


Click on the "Images" beneath my avatar, and you can see how I've "pimped my ride". I'm very pleased with the results, and the towing is effortless - just set the cruise control and auto engine-brake, gear her up to 6th gear (mine still has a manual!) and cruise at 65 mph @ 1600 rpm and 14.5 mpg. Happy Camper!


PS - the new 3500 rides *much* smoother than the old 2500. What a difference 14 years makes!
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Old 05-12-2019, 09:33 AM   #34
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Greetings!


I'm an engineer rather than a scientist but we share some of the same inclinations when approaching topics. My wife and I owned a'14 Flying Cloud 27' (now own a '15 Classic 30') and we selected a 3/4 ton TV because of the payload issue. Factoring generator, fuel, toys, luggage and passengers, the tongue weight of the Airstream tipped the scale well over the design payload of every 1/2 ton TV on the market. Certainly, others will say they are doing fine towing with a 1/2 ton but why risk catastrophic equipment failure by pushing/exceeding TV design limits?? Your hitch bars and general set-up also closely matches what I'm using with my 3/4 TV, and falls within the hitch's design range. Moving to a 1 ton would be unnecessary additional expense for equipment and operation (fuel efficiency among others).


Safe travels!


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Old 05-12-2019, 09:48 AM   #35
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I made the exact switch F150 to F250 with equalizer

I made this same switch last year. I have a 2018 27FB in Serenity. Initially towing with my F150 was just fine and when I ran through the cat scales I had decent pay load capacity. I then took an extended trip and added a Topper to the truck, generator, and more stuff as we were gone for 10 days. I ran it through the CAT scales and ended up 350 over my payload f150 payload.

I upgraded to an F250 and kept my equalizer hitch. The F250 is much higher off the ground and I had to swap out the ball drop to I believe a 10 inch. Other than that everything has worked great. With the same load out I know have a bit over 1000 pounds of spare payload capacity.

Happy to post a few pictures if you want them.
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Old 05-12-2019, 12:44 PM   #36
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Great info everyone! Thanks! Though I am a few years from doing this it is good to get a sense of if it is a hassle that I should dread or just a few minor things to be done. Sounds like it is the latter.
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Old 05-12-2019, 02:23 PM   #37
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As per tow vehicle, I tow a 25í flying cloud with a Reese distribution hitch/bars with a 2011 GMC 3500 diesel Dually and man, itís planted in all aspects of handling and power is NO problem! Stable! Dang near same mileage on highway as without the AS in tow. Simple Reese has been put to the test on many a mighty tight winding road, wind/rain with no issues whatsoever.
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Old 05-12-2019, 03:26 PM   #38
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As per tow vehicle, I tow a 25í flying cloud with a Reese distribution hitch/bars with a 2011 GMC 3500 diesel Dually and man, itís planted in all aspects of handling and power is NO problem! Stable! Dang near same mileage on highway as without the AS in tow. Simple Reese has been put to the test on many a mighty tight winding road, wind/rain with no issues whatsoever.
Awesome rig. My only comment is that with the load rating of the rear axle on the 3500 dually you don't need a weight distribution hitch.
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Old 05-12-2019, 03:54 PM   #39
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FYI: On some trucks, using an adapter sleeve de-rates the towing capacity of the hitch.
How do you determine how much de-rating a hitch has if using a reducer?
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Old 05-12-2019, 04:00 PM   #40
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My thoughts on this F250 vs F350 debate are that an F250 Diesel is more than capable to safely pull any Airstream with typical camping gear in the bed and passengers in all the truck seats. On an F250, I would use axle ratings instead of payload ratings. I believe an F250's payload is a "stickered" low to keep the truck under certain commercial licensing requirements, such as driver logs, truck plates and posting weight rating decals on commercial trucks over 10,000#. My F250 can actually be "stickered" with a 9,900 GVWR, or 10,000 GVWR, depending on the licensing requirements in the jurisdiction where it will be delivered.

I could never exceed my Axle ratings of 5,200# front and 6,340# rear, totaling 11,540#, while towing my Airstream with four passengers and the truckbed filled with camping gear. I probably could not even exceed my 2100# payload. I agree with others that said, "an F350 is for hauling a truck camper with the Airstream, or for a heavy gooseneck/fifth wheel trailer". So add me to the camp that its the axle ratings, not payload, especially on an F250 that is stickered low for commercial licensing purposes.

This article touches on this issue of derating trucks for licsening porposes: https://www.worktruckonline.com/1458...d-how-its-done
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