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Old 06-03-2020, 04:14 PM   #41
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https://th.bing.com/th/id/OIP.Id3aKi...r=1.25&pid=1.7

this might work
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Old 06-03-2020, 04:33 PM   #42
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Looking at spec sheets for just Ford F-150, F250,F350, short bed crewcabs, dimensions are about the same as far as vehicle size. No difference in ease of parking. What would make the F150 a better daily driver than a F350? I love my F350 diesel and have a topper on the back so that probably improves the ride. Never worry about tongue weight or the extras DW wants to haul along. Just my opinion.
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Old 06-03-2020, 04:34 PM   #43
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Congratulations on asking our favorite question on the Forums

The correct TV is one that you and your family feel safe in. OEM’s place payload/cargo, Gross Axle Weights, Gross Vehicle Weights in the truck. Plus Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Rating. Use this info to determine which TV meets your needs.

Living on the margins of these weights is not worth the risk. Find a TV that has 2,000 lbs or more of payload and if you weights are comfortably within posted weight limits, tow with confidence. As an example of a confusing bit of information on our super duty weights that baffles me, the dealer and TFL Trucks is this: If we are at our trucks Gross Weight of 10,000 lbs and want to tow max trailer weight of over 12,000 lbs, we CANNOT safely accomplish this task because our Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Rating is 19,500 lbs! None of the above experts have been able to explain this situation.

You are receiving volumes of excellent advice here, but do not hesitate to review YOUTUBE channel, “TFL Trucks”! They test TV’s at their max tow rating going East (up) on I-70 from Dillon to the IKE tunnel and West (down) to determine how they manage the load.

Our experience with an F150 with 4.6L engine with our 26’ Trailer on a coast to coast trip at 4,000 miles driving at 60-65MPH, included a lot of semi “push”. I drove 100% of the time. We purchased a ‘19 F250 Lariat with 6.2L engine and are in the midst of another multi-thousand mile trip, currently in Colorado, and my best description of the difference in driving experience is my wife will drive for hours at a time without the white knuckle semi push! We ordered our TV with only those options we needed (no diesel, no 4x4, no BLISS, no smart cruise, no camera pkg, etc.), and the MSRP was similar to an F150. Our payload is over 3500lbs! However, dealers in Georgia were unwilling to discount Super Duties more than 12%.

As you can see everybody has an opinion on this topic and justify their decisions based on personal experience and some scientific research. Our new TV is not the easiest to maneuver in tight spots, but is excellent TV!

Towing hitches have already been addressed by Forums experts. We use an Andersen WD/anti-sway and it works fine for our 26’ AS, which we purchased without a ton of research! At the recommendation of an AS friend, we purchased a Blue Ox for our 34’ Excella and it provides little assistance when towing this triple axle beauty on the ball between Georgia and Florida. Some of the recommended hitches need to be disconnected prior to parking at your camping site = more food for thought.

Welcome to the AS family! Recommend joining an AS club and participate in a Rally and a Caravan to make great new friends and ask a million questions of veteran towers!
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Old 06-03-2020, 05:46 PM   #44
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As others have said you can spec any 1/2 ton truck to carry the load but give up the luxuries. We started like others with a 1/2 ton quickly (1st trip) learned were at the limit. Didn’t want that long term so started looking. At the time best option was a 2019 F350 Platinum. Hard to think about overloading, was on the lot and ended up costing us less than a $500 premium over an equivalent F250. Now almost a year in wife and I couldn’t be happier, truck is ultra comfy, doesn’t care that we’re towing a 27 ft Airstream behind us etc.

You’ll figure it out.
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Old 06-03-2020, 08:09 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjsigmund View Post
Last year we purchased a Ford F150 Platinum 3.5 EcoBoost as we thought we would be buying a 22 AS. As it turns out we bought bigger than expected as we are now the proud owners of a 27FB Globetrotter.

We drove it about 700 miles home this weekend and we used a Blue Ox Pro hitch. As I have little experience driving trailers, I don't know what normal is.

A few things that I noticed:

Pros:
Plenty of power

Smooth ride unless the road was concrete with ridges

Cons:
I could feel eighteen wheelers come up behind me from the opposite lane. The trailer/truck felt as if it were pulled into the other lane slightly.

The truck/trailer porpoised on cruddy concrete highway at 65MPH.I pulled over.

A few questions:

*Are the cons normal?

*Payload question - My sticker states that my payload is 1500. If my tongue weight is 800lbs, my cover is 100lbs and 2 passengers weighing 350lbs. Does that mean I can only bring 250lbs of other stuff?

*Do I have the right truck?

Thanks
CJS
We are towing our 27 Globetrotter with an F150, but with 1754# payload. I went to the scale with everything imaginable plus a bunch of firewood in the front of the bed for extra weight. Fuel, Propane and water were full. We are ok, and it tows good after careful adjustment of the hitch. We tow regularly over many steep grades on our regular route.
We also tow a 6000# boat/trailer combo with 7% tongue weight, no anti-sway or weight distribution and that tows fine too.
I did install Motorcraft Super Duty brake pads and KONI STR.t LT shocks and struts.
I am hesitantly posting my spreadsheet for my trip to the scale. There is a lot of information there. Look at it closely and see if you think you could get it done with your available payload. My trucks weight will be less than it was on the scale probably all the time.
If you are not comfortable with the truck's payload limit or its driving dynamics then change trucks. I am very pleased with my set-up and would rather drive it than my work's 2010 F250 5.4 gasser with 7,000# utility trailer.
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Old 06-03-2020, 08:25 PM   #46
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You're fine. F-150 eco is perfectly adequate for us pulling an FC27 after 20K miles.
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Old 06-03-2020, 08:39 PM   #47
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Got 35,000 miles towing a 27FB with hitch set up properly and within CAT scales with a 2017 F150. Been to Alaska, Great Lakes and all over from California. Crossed all the big mountain ranges several times . Love the truck as a daily driver.

But hey... listen to the advice, take a bath on your truck and dump another 75k onto something bigger and heavier that'll hide the problems. I normally recommend a cement truck. Its really heavy and slow.
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Old 06-04-2020, 07:27 AM   #48
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You have lots of power to get the job done. Payload is fine if you are reasonable about what you bring along. The only real issues are porpoising and the truck/bus push-pull effect.

You’ve received good advice. Better shock absorbers and stiffer tires on the tow vehicle will help. However, weight distributing hitch setup is critical, and adjusting it properly may not cost you anything (unless you need heavier spring bars).

Do your homework, and then start fine tuning. Google “Hitch Hints” by Andy Thomson.

I tow a 22FB with a Volvo V70 station wagon. Passing trucks are not an issue. I feel them if there’s a crosswind, but it’s minor and not a concern. I spent time experimenting to get the right amount of tension on the hitch. (BTW, I use an Eaz-Lift with 1000 lb bars. I can easily overload the front tires if I use too much tension.) Stiffer, performance-oriented tires on the car would improve things further, but I am very comfortable with the combination.
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Old 06-04-2020, 08:05 AM   #49
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It really sounds to me like your hitch may not be set up properly. The Blue Ox is first class and should do better that what you are experiencing.

Going to the scales should be in your future. But first, take some measurements of your truck, front and rear, before hooking up. Next, hook up as normal and measure again. If your rear is squatting, and your front is higher, increase the amount of weight distributed to the front. This alone will vastly improve your handling.

Pat
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Old 06-04-2020, 12:57 PM   #50
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I agree with Pat (pmclemore) that your Blue Ox might not be set to the optimum tension.

We also have a Blue Ox SwayPro and it took me a while to get it dialed in. I assume you’ve got 1000# bars, the max you can use with a 2” receiver (class IV) according to Blue Ox (2.5” Class V to use 1500# bars). You need to pull the tension up to get the anti-sway and weight transfer. I found three links showing (from the bar to the latch) was the best setup.

To safely get there, raise the tongue jack after locking the trailer on the ball. This will allow you to safely pull up the chains then lower the jack.

We started with a RAM 1500 and 1000# bars and experienced the same feeling you described. Our payload was even less than yours. A trip to the CAT scales showed we were right at the rear axle’s max of 4100 lbs. Our 27’ GT’s tongue weight is 1100 lbs loaded for camping.

The RAM had plenty of power to pull the trailer but felt like it was getting pushed around at highway speed and that’s with the factory Off-road package Bilstein shocks.

It boils down to your comfort level with the towing. We’ve moved up to a 2019 RAM 2500 gas with 2940 lbs. payload. *You’ll lose about 900# with a diesel so if you go that way, consider a 1 ton in any brand. The 2500 feels much more planted and doesn’t get pushed around like the 1500.

Good luck!
Jeff
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Old 06-05-2020, 09:03 AM   #51
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THE Compromise

We have a 2008 Toyota Land Cruiser purchased in 2008. Our Daily Driver with 69,000 miles.

Traded in the 2012 Tundra, our 25 foot Airstream towed good enough, but the combination with the 2016 F350 (Diesel as the dealership found someone who needed it kind of price and trade in on the Tundra.) was overkill, but a dream.

The 2019 International and the 2016 F350, now with 44,000 miles, are an excellent combination... for US.

Get yourself a 'daily driver'. A beater... if it breaks down, sell it for what you can get. Or a later model Toyota, which are excellent daily drivers.

I will quit tossing out opinions. Since we tow our Airstream often... we have found a great compromise. Many want it ALL at the same time. We are conservative in purchasing, but wise when spending liberally. This is the Compromise. It works for us. Always.

My frugal brother's odometer on his Chevrolet Truck is included as His Daily Driver on May 14, 2020. I told him to take it to Chevrolet and they may give him a newer truck and use his as an example. We will see.
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Old 06-05-2020, 09:30 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffmc306 View Post
I agree with Pat (pmclemore) that your Blue Ox might not be set to the optimum tension.

We also have a Blue Ox SwayPro and it took me a while to get it dialed in. I assume you’ve got 1000# bars, the max you can use with a 2” receiver (class IV) according to Blue Ox (2.5” Class V to use 1500# bars). You need to pull the tension up to get the anti-sway and weight transfer. I found three links showing (from the bar to the latch) was the best setup.

To safely get there, raise the tongue jack after locking the trailer on the ball. This will allow you to safely pull up the chains then lower the jack.

We started with a RAM 1500 and 1000# bars and experienced the same feeling you described. Our payload was even less than yours. A trip to the CAT scales showed we were right at the rear axle’s max of 4100 lbs. Our 27’ GT’s tongue weight is 1100 lbs loaded for camping.

The RAM had plenty of power to pull the trailer but felt like it was getting pushed around at highway speed and that’s with the factory Off-road package Bilstein shocks.

It boils down to your comfort level with the towing. We’ve moved up to a 2019 RAM 2500 gas with 2940 lbs. payload. *You’ll lose about 900# with a diesel so if you go that way, consider a 1 ton in any brand. The 2500 feels much more planted and doesn’t get pushed around like the 1500.

Good luck!
Jeff
What weight bars?
They have very little bend and may be too stiff.
It's best to have the lightest bars that will move the needed weight. The bars are springs and need to be compliant.

POI...your tongue,(AS) does not appear level, a bit high.

Bob
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TW 1200lb with 1000lb WD bars. 560 to the FA,160 to the AS, 720lb moved.
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Old 06-05-2020, 09:51 AM   #53
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Ditto - You've asked one of the most controversial questions . . .

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollysdad View Post
IMO, your hitch was not adjusted properly.


I have a Tundra, but I also feel a slight tug as semi's pass. A couple inches. I attribute it to the sway control making the connection between truck and trailer stiff. As a semi reaches the trailer, the air off the tractor pushes the trailer to the right, making the truck move left.
I never feel popoising unless the road is humpy. Like a bridge with precast sections that don't flatten out.

BTW, I tow at 63 mph. It's in my comfort zone. I often praise how well the Airstream tows.
I struggled for 3 years pulling a 25' FC with an 07 Grand Cherokee. Decided (kicking & screaming) to go HD truck. I didn't look at Tundra because I wanted a diesel TV. Lots of folks rave about their Tundra's. My neighbor had one. It was the most squared away truck I've ever seen under the hood. Very Impressive

My Reasons for my choice:

1. Not sure how much gear I'll be toting when I retire. . .
2. Wanted a big honking exhaust brake. . .
3. Wanted the wife to feel more comfortable behind the wheel. . .

An HD truck would not be a first choice if the truck were to be a daily driver. There are plenty of solutions, the challenge is finding your best one.

Shifting to the HD, same hitch Blue Ox (slightly lower bar tension), same camper/loading. - Zero sway when a semi passes. Zero porposing (all multi-lane interstates & most 2 lanes) so far. Towing speed is more about your trailers tires and braking your rolling stock. Going HD moved my max speed up from 60 (Jeep) to 65 (HD truck), plenty fast given the weight I now have to stop.

Significantly more peace of mind (at a $price). Lots of great advice in this forum on the subject. Good Luck Choosing Your Own Adventure.
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Old 06-05-2020, 10:00 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sheriff1 View Post
What would make the F150 a better daily driver than a F350?
Seriously?
First, getting in and out.
second, ride quality.
Third, size. The F-150 has a 122" wheelbase, is 106" wide, and 75" tall.
The F-350 wheelbase is 148", is also 106" wide, and 82" tall.
Parking, going into garages, all impacted.
Now, for those of us who use our tow vehicles as daily drivers, it isn't because we just like cash in the bank, it saves on initial cost and insurance.
The F-150 (Lariat) starts at $42,150.
The F-350 (Lariat) starts at $48,120
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Old 06-05-2020, 10:35 AM   #55
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So confused....Make this simple

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollysdad View Post
Seriously?
First, getting in and out.
second, ride quality.
Third, size. The F-150 has a 122" wheelbase, is 106" wide, and 75" tall.
The F-350 wheelbase is 148", is also 106" wide, and 82" tall.
Parking, going into garages, all impacted.
Now, for those of us who use our tow vehicles as daily drivers, it isn't because we just like cash in the bank, it saves on initial cost and insurance.
The F-150 (Lariat) starts at $42,150.
The F-350 (Lariat) starts at $48,120


Your quoting specs for different trucks, F150 crew cab 6.5’ bed vs F350 same configuration. About 9” difference in total length, F350 height fits in my garage with no modifications (7’ door). Factory steps, easy in and out. Ride comfort? Maybe the f150 wins there. Payload? Definitely goes to F350. $$$? F150 is false economy.
Again, just my opinion.
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Old 06-05-2020, 02:56 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by AgBullet View Post
You're fine. F-150 eco is perfectly adequate for us pulling an FC27 after 20K miles.
It may have adequate power to tow, but it is likely shy on the payload capacity. There is more to towing than just having enough power.
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Old 06-06-2020, 07:16 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
What weight bars?
They have very little bend and may be too stiff.
It's best to have the lightest bars that will move the needed weight. The bars are springs and need to be compliant.

POI...your tongue,(AS) does not appear level, a bit high.

Bob
����


TW 1200lb with 1000lb WD bars. 560 to the FA,160 to the AS, 720lb moved.
Bob, good eye! The parking lot where I took the photo had a slight hump in it for drainage so the tongue appears to be high there.

I was using 1,000 lbs. bars in the post but have a set of 1500 lbs. if needed. Now that we’ve got the 2500 I’m less concerned about transferring all the weight than the benefit of sway control.

Thanks for the feedback!
Jeff
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Old 06-06-2020, 08:27 AM   #58
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Stay with the 1000lb, bending is fine, what is important is proper weight transfer, a trip to the CAT scales for conformation.👍
Stiffer bars equal stiffer articulation between AS & TV.
Not optimal and could cause damage to the AS.

Bob
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Old 06-10-2020, 09:56 AM   #59
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F250

I have a 27 ft globetrotter and pull it with a F250 diesel. I used to have an F150 but I find they are too lightly built for their size and don’t have enough weight to control the trailer comfortably on the long trips. Sure the F150 is rated to do the job but you will always be driving cautiously and not comfortably. Especially with unexpected braking.
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Old 06-10-2020, 09:57 AM   #60
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1/2 ton 3/4 ton

I owned a 22' last year and a Ram 1500 with a Hemi v8. We thought it was a great set up. Then after a year the 22' started to be too small for us. In February we took delivery of a 25' Globetrotter and then we realized that with a camper shell, bed slider, tongue weight, etc. etc., that we had about maxed out the 1400 payload of the truck. Towing the 25' was not very stable. So, we bought a Ram 2500, same engine and life is good, tows great and we have at least 1000 lbs. payload to spare. I have had two 2500 Cummins before this one and miss some of the torque, but not that much. I am happy with my gas burner.
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