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Old 09-28-2014, 02:12 PM   #101
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m.hony that looks pretty close, did you compare front to rear trailer measurements ground to lower belt line? If you are empty, loading the truck and trailer for travel may bring you nearer perfection. That's not advice to load trailer front or truck rear heavy, not at all. Balance your trailer load, heavy near center and light on ends. Load truck lightly in front of rear axle.

If you drop the ball again and add another washer to raise trailer to level you may risk taking too much weight off the back of the truck, and loss of truck rear wheel traction and handling problems. Never set the truck rear higher than unloaded height, better a little lower.

You are most probably following Equal-I-Zer instructions regarding before and after wheel well measurements on the truck? Once this is tuned in, then you can fine tune the trailer level using the notches on the drop bar. And sometimes the jump from one notch to the next is too much, but the best the hitch allows.
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Old 09-28-2014, 02:43 PM   #102
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Looking at the photo, it appears to me the ball is in need of a one notch tilt to wards the trailer. This will drop the trunnion arms down slightly, and you can have them parallel to the ground or slightly lower at the trailer end. More chain links will be utilized this way.
 Here is what Reese suggests as initial set up.
Reese Set Up Image l_09.28.2014 by Fantinesvoice.com, on Flickr

Larger size at :

https://www.flickr.com/photos/fantin...88455/sizes/o/
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Old 09-28-2014, 03:11 PM   #103
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I'm going to put it back like it was. It handled better. Nose down is better than nose up-
Speaking of nose, my cat is rubbing my nose with her nose-
I can try adding a washer or getting one of those "high-rise" balls. The instructions specify a ball with a shank of no more than 2 3/8". I just need a half inch more.
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Old 09-28-2014, 03:12 PM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Msmoto View Post
Looking at the photo, it appears to me the ball is in need of a one notch tilt to wards the trailer. This will drop the trunnion arms down slightly, and you can have them parallel to the ground or slightly lower at the trailer end. More chain links will be utilized this way.

 Here is what Reese suggests as initial set up.

Reese Set Up Image l_09.28.2014 by Fantinesvoice.com, on Flickr



Larger size at :



https://www.flickr.com/photos/fantin...88455/sizes/o/

So, what you're saying is: add a washer-
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Old 09-29-2014, 02:41 AM   #105
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The unit which has the large end of trunnions and ball should have an adjustment for tilt. One loosens the large bolts which hold the carrier to the piece which inserts into the receiver on your TV, and privets this toward the trailer one notch on the large serrated locking surface of the carrier, this should then have the trunnions pointed more toward the road.

If you are not mechanically inclined, do not have the huge wrench required to loosen the bolt, or are unsure of this, take it to a good mechanic for this.

All instructions for the set up can be downloaded from Reese


http://www.hitchpro.net/application/...ions/n7903.pdf

Of course, all this is with the presumption you have the exact hitch I think I am seeing. LOL

Good luck, and safe travels





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Old 09-29-2014, 02:50 AM   #106
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More instructions on the dual cam sway control set up.


http://www.hitchpro.net/application/...ons/n26102.pdf


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Old 09-29-2014, 06:02 AM   #107
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Don't tow your trailer nose up, cuz nose up is baaad, umkay-
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Old 09-29-2014, 06:39 PM   #108
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Back to this setup which delivers the best performance (weight distribution and sway control) of everything I have tried (and I've tried everything), but the trailer is nose down:
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That thing about the weight bars being parallel to the a-frame- that just plain don't work. It has zero weight distribution like than- I can slip the bars right off the L-brackets with very little effort- no pressure at all-
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Old 09-29-2014, 06:41 PM   #109
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Equal-i-zer doesn't want to send me any more washers because I already have 6. If they don't send 'em, I reckon I'll go to a hardware store and get some-
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Old 09-29-2014, 06:43 PM   #110
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Buy them then!
I'll send you one if you want M Hony
Let me know


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Old 09-29-2014, 06:59 PM   #111
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Looks to me like your trucks receiver hitch is bent. From the photo is looks like the shank (part that slides into the receiver) is angling skyward. It should be parallel to the roadway.
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Old 09-29-2014, 07:01 PM   #112
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I don't know if another washer will get the result I want, but I'll never know if I don't try.
In the end, I might leave it like it is (nose down) because it performs the best- the lesser of 2 evils.
If one hole up on ball height makes the trailer nose up and one hole down on ball height makes the trailer nose down, what can I do to level the trailer? Add a washer? Maybe!
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Old 09-29-2014, 08:24 PM   #113
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If the leverage bars are basically loose, then there is little improvement over just a plain ball. The receiver on the truck is not level, it is pointing skyward, thus all the leverage is used trying to get the arms level.

Get under the truck and determine why the truck receiver is NOT level with the road. You might have a serious frame issue there.
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Old 09-29-2014, 08:34 PM   #114
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You mentioned the bars aren't carrying any significant weight. That's an indicator of a problem. If you already have washers in the hitch and still not loading the bars the either (1) the brackets are too low or the hitch is (2) pointing up. You really want those bars to be carrying a good load. That's how sway control works, friction between bars and brackets. I still think something's funny with the truck mounted receiver, doesn't look right.. I'd first try adding as many washers that will fit.
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Old 09-29-2014, 08:39 PM   #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by switz View Post
If the leverage bars are basically loose, then there is little improvement over just a plain ball. The receiver on the truck is not level, it is pointing skyward, thus all the leverage is used trying to get the arms level.

Get under the truck and determine why the truck receiver is NOT level with the road. You might have a serious frame issue there.

It is sitting in my angled driveway-
The driveway is on a slant up to the rear wheels of the truck then levels off where the trailer is-
The receiver shank does come out of the truck straight and is parallel to the road when on a level road. It my go up a little because the truck has a "rake" to it- the front is lower than the back/
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Old 09-29-2014, 08:41 PM   #116
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The way I have it now it does have weight distribution, but the bars are not parallel to the tongue as Equal-i-zer says they should be. When I set it up the way Equal-i-zer says it has no weight distribution.
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Old 09-29-2014, 08:45 PM   #117
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The brackets are as high as they will go.
I have weight distribution and sway control. It drives, rides, handles good. It's just that the trailer is nose down. Go higher on the ball the trailer is nose up and handles bad. There has got to be a way to get the trailer level and have weight distribution. There has to be an in the middle- good handling AND a level trailer-
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Old 09-30-2014, 06:06 AM   #118
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There is a tremendous amount of slop/play between the Equal-I-zer shank and the Toyota receiver. I have not figured out exactly how to address this. I have thought about a bead of weld on the bottom and one side of the shank to make it fit snugly. This might affect the hitch adjustments.
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Old 09-30-2014, 06:23 AM   #119
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Camping world and other rv supplies sell a u shaped bracket the eliminates the slop. It's a bolt on thing. If your rig handles okay, maybe leave well enough alone? Unless you are parked on a level area no one will knows if it is perfectly level or not. If you have sway control now, be happy. AS, in their old owners manuals, said a little down is okay. Jim
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Old 09-30-2014, 07:00 PM   #120
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Yep. Someone messaged me that info. I responded that I would be getting on Amazon.
I stopped by an RV store today snd forgot to ask about that thing-a-ma-jig.
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