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Old 09-13-2014, 12:13 PM   #21
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By adding air bags, you will not increase the load capacity of the springs. The bags simply will carry some of the load which was being carried by the springs. Ron
Overall effect on the tow vehicle is the same.
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Old 09-13-2014, 12:46 PM   #22
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Sagging Truck?

Springs as a function of design compress under load, and after time they get a little "tired", a little bit of rear sag does not make a combination unsafe.

Also, IMHO, tongue weight removed via WD is not to be added into the "cargo weight".
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Old 09-13-2014, 12:50 PM   #23
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This guy managed to get his truck level :P

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Old 09-13-2014, 12:52 PM   #24
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No way would I tow anything behind my Airstream.

Can you say "crack the whip"..
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Old 09-13-2014, 05:10 PM   #25
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Good comment on the ball angle...that makes sense but...as I said earlier, with my trailer lifted reasonably high prior to attaching the WD bars I am taking up as many chain links as I can reach. So if the case as you suggest where the bars are tilted lower away from the frame rail can I load the bars any greater then without any ball tilt? I would imagine that with the ball angle tilted away I might not be able to get to my three loose links that I now am able to do (it might only be two).
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Old 09-14-2014, 06:44 AM   #26
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My trailer is a little nose down and my truck's suspension compresses too much when hitched.
I will try 2 things to make it better- raise the front of the trailer a little and compress the rear suspension less-
First, I will try adding a washer or 2- this should transfer a little more weight to the front axle and trailer axles, thereby raising the front of the trailer a little and decreasing the compression of the rear of the truck.
Second, if the washer(s) don't git-r- dun, I will try inverting the hitch shank and raising the ball one notch higher than it is now.
As it is now, I am within 200 pounds of my rear axle limit, 400 pounds of my front axle limit, and 1,500 pounds of my trailer axle limit. Maybe the washer/raising the all will move another 100 pounds to the front axle and another 100 pounds to the truck axle.
After I try those 2 things, I'm out of options. I simply cannot afford another truck. We'll just run what we brung-
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Old 09-14-2014, 06:53 AM   #27
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Bikes and firewood are in the bed of the truck.
I like the convenience of having the firewood at the back, but firewood at the front is better for weight distribution.
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Old 09-14-2014, 07:38 AM   #28
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Good comment on the ball angle...that makes sense but...as I said earlier, with my trailer lifted reasonably high prior to attaching the WD bars I am taking up as many chain links as I can reach. So if the case as you suggest where the bars are tilted lower away from the frame rail can I load the bars any greater then without any ball tilt? I would imagine that with the ball angle tilted away I might not be able to get to my three loose links that I now am able to do (it might only be two).
number of chain links is kind of irrelevant; you use the one that reaches the hook when the chain is taut.
Without the head being tilted back, you've got a lever without much of a fulcrum.
Another thing to look at is the receiver, itself. Is it a stock receiver hitch, from the factory, or aftermarket? Some have been known to flex when WD torque is applied, and if the receiver tube can flex more than a slight amount, the torque is absorbed by the receiver, and not transformed to the truck's frame, and weight won't be distributed.
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Old 09-14-2014, 07:50 AM   #29
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Bikes and firewood are in the bed of the truck.
I like the convenience of having the firewood at the back, but firewood at the front is better for weight distribution.
Firewood is available in most places and not legal to haul around in some states to prevent spread of tree disease. While at Jackson Center (I think I saw you were headed there?) have them put on a bicycle rack so two of your bikes can subtract from hitch weight rather than adding to it.
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Old 09-14-2014, 09:17 AM   #30
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That is true. After I burn what I have I will do without or buy at the campground. I still have 2 piles at home, though.
I can buy wood for $7 at George Payne Cossar State Park. For $7 they bring you a Ford Ranger truck bed full of wood- very economical-
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Old 09-14-2014, 09:21 AM   #31
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I honestly don't have the cash for the bike rack. Maybe next time. We will go to Jackson Center every 2-4 years for service/maintenance/repair because it is a better option/more convenient for me than service from a dealer 4-5 hours away who requires an appointment, requires me to leave the trailer 2 weeks- making 2 8-10 hour road trips- and doesn't have parts on hand.
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Old 09-14-2014, 09:28 AM   #32
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Forest Service parks will not allow wood brought from elsewhere.
The only Forest Service park we stay in is Choctaw Lake at Ackerman, MS.
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Old 09-14-2014, 11:43 AM   #33
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The "bummer" factor there is firewood is pretty heavy. It doesn't take much to equal a 100 pounds or more.
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Old 09-14-2014, 12:49 PM   #34
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Someone messaged me that scrap lumber from a lumber yard was not technically firewood. I get scrap lumber for free from a factory in my town that makes pallets.
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Old 09-14-2014, 01:51 PM   #35
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Maybe no bugs but still heavy.
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Old 09-20-2014, 04:27 PM   #36
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I simply don't have enough truck or hitch for my trailer. The trailer is still a little nose down with 6 washers and the L-brackets as high as they will go. My hitch and my truck are maxed out or overloaded. The Tundra has the horsepower and torque, but is lacking in the payload department.
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Old 09-20-2014, 05:11 PM   #37
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You have a heavy trailer M
Did you invert the shank yet, per your previous post. I think it has to look better? Did you take a picture yet?


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Old 09-20-2014, 05:40 PM   #38
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I simply don't have enough truck or hitch for my trailer. The trailer is still a little nose down with 6 washers and the L-brackets as high as they will go. My hitch and my truck are maxed out or overloaded. The Tundra has the horsepower and torque, but is lacking in the payload department.
If your Airstream is nose down it's not because you are maxed out, you just need the hitch moved higher on the receiver drop bar.

Airstream says the hitch weight should NEVER exceed 1,000 lbs in your Owners Manual, that would be 10% of their heaviest current model. If it does, you should try to redistribute your trailer load.

With weight distribution on a 1/2 ton truck it should support 1,000 lbs, it's namesake, 1/2 ton. As usual, there are most likely exceptions, but I doubt your Tundra is one of them.
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Old 09-20-2014, 05:45 PM   #39
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Bob, hitch installer for 40 years at Jackson Center, said not to raise the ball, but to lower it.
We did get the truck at its original ride height and the trailer dead level at Jackson Center, but it is drooping again. I think my suspension is wearing out as we speak- er, type-
The way I had it, there was no sway control- no friction, no pressure-
No, it works well, but after a turn it takes a while to straighten out. Bob was telling me the merits of a Reese Dual Cam in that regard- it is designed (cam and crook in weight bar) to always want to return to center/straighten. The Equal-i-zer straight bars have nothing to make them return to center/straight. I have to hold the steering whelk against the pressure after a turn till it eventually straightens.
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Old 09-20-2014, 05:50 PM   #40
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If your Airstream is nose down it's not because you are maxed out, you just need the hitch moved higher on the receiver drop bar.



Airstream says the hitch weight should NEVER exceed 1,000 lbs in your Owners Manual, that would be 10% of their heaviest current model. If it does, you should try to redistribute your trailer load.



With weight distribution on a 1/2 ton truck it should support 1,000 lbs, it's namesake, 1/2 ton. As usual, there are most likely exceptions, but I doubt your Tundra is one of them.

I thought that, too, but Bob at Jackson Center said opposite. He lowered the hitch 2 holes, added 2 washers (I have 6 now), and raised the L-brackets- which to me is maybe like moving up a chain link on an Eazlift or similar style hitch. Maybe I should raise the ball one or two holes and see what happens. After 2 more holes inverting the shank is the only thing left to try.
Apparently you can't just adjust one thing without adjusting everything else.
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