Roadmaster Active Suspension

[drmox]

Is there anybody out there using this setup or anything like it?

https://activesuspension.com/

Their website talks a good game, and they make it sound like it's an easy fix to configure a 1/2-ton truck to handle an 800 pound tongue weight.

I tow my 31 ft. '76 Sovereign with a 2500 Ram, but would rather sell my daily driver Nissan Murano and HD pickup for an F-150.

[ROBERT CROSS]

^
How would it do that?
POI... all suspensions are 'active' when the vehicle is moving.
It won't increase load capability.
It will remove squat, just like a WD hitch will do.

I would stay with what you have.

FWIW...there are many 1500's towing a variety of AS's.
Get the rig dialed in and watch the loading.👍

Expect other "opinions" shortly.

Bob
🇺🇸

[Duramax3oh]

There’s a Facebook page called Half-Ton Haulers and people just rave about it and how great it is. Which naturally makes me more suspicious. Lol

No it does not increase payload or towing capacity. But supposedly it helps reduce sag, helps with better handling and can reduce porpoising. I’m interested in trying it out.

[Ted S.]

I have it on a Ford Excursion. That and Bilstein shocks made a world of difference.

[GettinAway]

Just adding a bit to this thread, as I installed the Roadmaster Active Suspension (RAS) to my Tundra on Friday. Drove 200 mi on Sat and Sun and noticed improved handling and less bounce riding basically empty. There’s a fair amount of concrete Highway near me and for some reason even the brand new ones have a significant dip at every section. This weekend we start a 2,000 mile trip to head south, visit daughter’s family, and get some work done on the AS. (Including the 3” lift).
I’ll post back here on how I think it effects set up with towing the 25FB. I absolutely know it does not change the payload capacity of my Tundra. I’ve pulled the 25FB for 5,000+ miles with the Tundra and it’s very stable with regard to sway. However, it’s got a bit of sag, and it will bounce or porpoise on some roads. I’m hoping to minimize that.
FYI, I use the BO swaypro hitch.

[Daquenzer]

I was going to put an airbag system in and a suspension person that puts in airbags said go with the road master. He uses it for pulling his camper.

I put the road master on my 2017 and 2020 F150.
1) It gets rid of the porpoising.
2) It gets rid of axle wrap which can decrease handling.
2) It makes the back end more stable and improves handling.
3) It reduces squat.

It’s better than airbags:
1) It costs far less.
2) It is more durable (airbags can puncture).

Technically it doesn’t increase payload. But it is essentially like adding another spring to the system.

By the way: I didn’t put on Bilstein shocks.

[GettinAway]

I added the Bilstein shocks last year, and went to load range E tires (Cooper Discoverer XLT) tires earlier this year.

[GettinAway]

Wanted to update again, as I’ve now towed 350 mi (yesterday) with the Roadmaster Active Suspension. Have driven about 300 mi with RAS installed without towing also.
I will say, this is a huge difference maker for me. We pull a 25FB with a 1/2 ton Toyota Tundra. Use the Blue Ox Swaypro hitch. I’ve not felt very much sway with it in the last 5,000 miles of towing, but I have felt the downward “push” of that tongue weight on the 1/2 ton suspension. Plus I’ve not liked the look of the rear squat on the Tundra. My trailer was level, but the truck was not.
With the RAS, the truck is now very level, and the trailer is tilted so the nose is up. I’m on my way to Dadeville AL to get some work done on our GT, including the 3” lift, so I’ll see how level things are once the lift is installed.
Leveling aside, I will say the biggest change with the RAS is the porpoising we were experiencing on concrete highways. It’s so much better it’s almost nonexistent! Just a huge improvement. I also went from P rated tires to E rated tires at the same time. So that may be contributing. As a disclaimer, I do not know what the long term effects are on the truck suspension and drive train, but the RAS has been around a long lime. I wasn’t not able to find any negative reviews on it. It’s by far the biggest improvement to “towing” I’ve done.
It does not increase payload capacity, but it really smooths out the ride, empty or pulling the 25FB.

[SilverCabin]

Seems to me that a properly dialed in WD hitch would do the same thing. I've been pulling my 27FB FC with an F-150 since 2014. The trailer is level. The truck is almost level, as Ford and Hitch's instructions say to only bring the front to half-way back from the no WD measurement. Don't have any sway problems, porpoising, or handling issues.

Randy

[B. Cole]

Originally Posted by Duramax3oh

There’s a Facebook page called Half-Ton Haulers and people just rave about it and how great it is. Which naturally makes me more suspicious. Lol

No it does not increase payload or towing capacity. But supposedly it helps reduce sag, helps with better handling and can reduce porpoising. I’m interested in trying it out.

I'm sure there's some great examples of overloaded/ overmatched tow vehicles on that Half-Ton Haulers deal.
With all kinds of hitch gimmicks.
Everything is fine, until suddenly, it's not...

[BayouBiker]

These variable rate active suspension systems do a good job of supporting light trucks with low spring rates to carry peak loads with better handling and suspension performance. They work well for many 1/2 ton trucks as advertised.

As several have mentioned, they won't provide for safe increases in tongue weight, they won't allow one to safely tow larger and longer trailers. They will allow for higher cargo carrying but only if the payload limit is due to low spring rate. They won't increase rear axle load capacity except in very rare cases.

[GettinAway]

Originally Posted by SilverCabin

Seems to me that a properly dialed in WD hitch would do the same thing. I've been pulling my 27FB FC with an F-150 since 2014. The trailer is level. The truck is almost level, as Ford and Hitch's instructions say to only bring the front to half-way back from the no WD measurement. Don't have any sway problems, porpoising, or handling issues.

Randy

It’s pretty amazing IMHO. The other day I hooked up our 25FB on the ball only. It did not drop the rear end of the Tundra hardly at all. As is clearly stated, it does not change the payload limit of your truck. It just stops the porpoising and eliminates the sag. Call it a gimmick if you want to, but it really improves the ride and handling of the truck while pulling a trailer without affecting the ride and handling while not pulling a trailer. We are 3800 miles into our current trip. The longest trip since installing the RAS. It works very well. I still set my Blue Ox SwayPro on the same settings. The truck and trailer are level. I just could not get the rear squat eliminated on my Tundra no matter how much I adjusted the weight distribution on the hitch. We’ve been over passes, hit by very stiff cross winds, past by 100s of semis, all with no sway. I’ve been over 70 mph a few times also, but never for very long. (We also had the 3” lift put on our 25FB)
It’s not that expensive, and it’s easy to install. I’m sure it’s adding stress somewhere else, but I’m hoping Toyota has engineered the inner workings of the axle to handle it. (Yes I know “hoping” is not a good thing to you engineers )
It really makes a difference for my truck and trailer.

[SilverCabin]

My Equal-I-Zer hitch has always been able to eliminate the rear end sag on both my 2006 and 2018 F-150s. So, I guess I don't see the need for this, but I can agree that hauling a trailer without a WD hitch (their website mentions horse trailers and boats) could be useful, or as in GettinAway's situation too.

Randy

[GettinAway]

We only were moving around a loop in Big Bend NP. About 50 yards total. So I didn’t mess with the weight distribution bars. Just noticed no sag without the bars. I wouldn’t go very far without them.

[SilverCabin]

Originally Posted by GettinAway

We only were moving around a loop in Big Bend NP. About 50 yards total. So I didn’t mess with the weight distribution bars. Just noticed no sag without the bars. I wouldn’t go very far without them.

Without my WD bars attached I almost drag the hitch on the ground, so I usually don't move without them. I can see how the active suspension would reduce the sag without the WD bars attached.

Randy

[GettinAway]

Interesting. It would seem that the Equalizer hitch does a much better job of transferring weight to the front axle than my Blue Ox. I’m certainly not intending to make this into another hitch thread.
Thx

[BayouBiker]

An equalizer has stiffer bars and requires less vertical displacement to generate the same torque. It won't do a better job, just less bar stain. I suppose someone who notices it takes more bar displacement but doesn't realize the force at that displacement is the same might conclude the device with less displacement is "more effective". That would be false. there are a number of advantages to more flexible bars, the greatest is that forces don't multiply as quickly with suspension travel so the hitch is much more gentle on the trailer.

[Fungus]

My F-150 with MaxTow package experiences uncomfortable porpoising on concrete highways while towing a 2017 International 25FB with a tongue weight > 800 lbs.

I am interested in experiences and opinions regarding which RAS to use: standard duty or heavy duty. The truck is my every-day vehicle. Roadmaster recommends the heavy duty for tongue weight > 600 lbs.

[GettinAway]

Originally Posted by Fungus

My F-150 with MaxTow package experiences uncomfortable porpoising on concrete highways while towing a 2017 International 25FB with a tongue weight > 800 lbs.

I am interested in experiences and opinions regarding which RAS to use: standard duty or heavy duty. The truck is my every-day vehicle. Roadmaster recommends the heavy duty for tongue weight > 600 lbs.

I went with the heavy duty RAS. I did not see any comments that reflected negative experiences while driving empty. I’d say my ride is slightly improved when driving empty. I will say, my empty vehicle height has increased. I’m not sure by how much, because I did not measure the bed height before installing the RAS. It’s up at least an inch, but still goes into the garage. We regularly drive one of those concrete highways that was built poorly from the start. It can really get the truck porpoising. It’s better now empty, and way better pulling our 25FB.

[GettinAway]

Originally Posted by BayouBiker

An equalizer has stiffer bars and requires less vertical displacement to generate the same torque. It won't do a better job, just less bar stain. I suppose someone who notices it takes more bar displacement but doesn't realize the force at that displacement is the same might conclude the device with less displacement is "more effective". That would be false. there are a number of advantages to more flexible bars, the greatest is that forces don't multiply as quickly with suspension travel so the hitch is much more gentle on the trailer.

Thanks Brian. The problem isn’t the hitch, it’s me.. I really lift the rear of the truck and the front of the AS when setting up the chains, but I still feel like I’m really putting the pressure on them when they get locked in place. I just chicken out when I want to go up another link.