Repair or buy newer TV

[05ModPod]

I’m in such a pickle trying to make up my mind. I have been considering changing from a truck to a van that can be minimally converted to a class B for short trips. But my small trailer is pretty easy to get around.

I have researched my engine 5.3L Vortec. In my 2006 GMC Sierra SLE 4x4 Crew and that baby can go upwards of 300-400k miles which is about 480k - 640k Klm I have seen lots for sale with 380k Klm to 400k but not way up there. Mine has 217klms 136k miles.

My transmission blew a second gear after one of the lines blew going up a hill not towing at the time at 204klm I had a guy who rebuilds the 4l60. He built it to tow with the turbo booster and no plastic parts going back in with some other beefed up things I did not understand. My old casing was replaced with a new tooled unit with a complete rebuild like new.


I just replaced the power steering pump, gas lines, and brake lines as well as all new brakes two years ago. Only made one big trip towing 7k Klm to Nfld this past summer.

The rockers are shot along with some rust on cab corners and bottom of tailgate.
I need front end work all ball joints and tie rods. Did front wheel bearings in last two years and one upper ball joint this summer. - pot holes are like craters!!!

So $2200 for body work and front end work maybe front right pad about $500.00 Fuel pump might godown the road could be $6-7 hundred Alternator replaced back at 130klm starter and new battery too.

They sell in good condition for $12k so lucky to get 10k on private sale for down payment on new to me 2013-2014

With all that said, now on a fixed income I could never afford a new one same specs as mine. Do I fix mine or take on a newer one with a 10k loan. Would I be taking on all those repairs again? 2013 under 100k going for 16- 18k.

On the other hand I know my truck intimately every noise caution light ( sensors of sensors )With the repairs around 3k I should get another 180-200klm that could get me another 6-8 years of towing with hopefully only a few more standard things like brakes hoses etc.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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[Argosy man]

Just one mans opinion-

Sounds like you have already done the expensive fix (transmission). Then I would go ahead and get the other repairs (including the body work)- so it looks good and your not embarrassed to drive it.

I have driven older vehicles in good repair for years and enjoy not having a payment. When they get too ugly or expensive to repair; I find another older vehicle in pristine shape and figure a new transmission into the price.

[05ModPod]

Thanks Argosy Man... forgot need to get new tires too mine are 6 years old they were used with 90% tread great deal $350.00 so hoping I will get another good deal.

[Countryboy59]

If the cab corners are rusty so is the frame. Buy one of the same year from Texas, have it shipped up and do the mechanical repairs.

[RandyNH]

Current vehicle

217Km need $3,000 to get another 200Km

Hope for vehicle

<100Km need $8,000 to get another 300Km

So an additional $5,000 for an 100Km

The biggest consideration, you've invested the money already in the necessary repairs to get to 217Km whereas the other person is probably selling before they need to spend the money on the same repairs to get to the same mileage, this you will possibly need to spend the same money again on the same repairs to get back to the same mileage, so add all those repairs costs again on top of the $8,000.

Make the repairs and be sure to save your pennies, run it into the ground and then just get one with no real expectation of monies on selling it.

Doing what your thinking of doing is like remortgaging your house every two years to chase lower payments, to eventually realize you've paid an extra $100,000 because of it.

[VaTravelers]

I have a 2005 Ford F250 (8' bed) with 54K on it. I am the original owner. Body and interior are in near new condition, and it has new Michelin 18" tires. I have had my 2017 28' Serenity for just over a year and a half. So far I have had to replace the turbo silicone boots (on the road), upper and lower ball joints, oil cooler, alternator, drive shaft center bearing, right rear axle seal, and most of the oil system (had an internal leak). This has all been done over the course of a couple of years and some of it was before I bought our AS. The TV runs better than new and gets 12-13 mpg when towing. My point is that I have invested about $10K into repairs (some preventative maintenance) to avoid having to spend $72+K on a new TV. The truck sat for many years and some of my issues were due to that, but I also know the 6.0 liter engine had it's share of issues. But the cost avoidance was a big reason I chose the path I did. I am ready to start another season of camping so I'll see if my investment has paid off. I think it will. Good luck with your decision.

[franklyfrank]

Originally Posted by 05ModPod

I’m in such a pickle trying to make up my mind. I have been considering changing from a truck to a van that can be minimally converted to a class B for short trips. But my small trailer is pretty easy to get around.

I have researched my engine 5.3L Vortec. In my 2006 GMC Sierra SLE 4x4 Crew and that baby can go upwards of 300-400k miles which is about 480k - 640k Klm I have seen lots for sale with 380k Klm to 400k but not way up there. Mine has 217klms 136k miles.

My transmission blew a second gear after one of the lines blew going up a hill not towing at the time at 204klm I had a guy who rebuilds the 4l60. He built it to tow with the turbo booster and no plastic parts going back in with some other beefed up things I did not understand. My old casing was replaced with a new tooled unit with a complete rebuild like new.


I just replaced the power steering pump, gas lines, and brake lines as well as all new brakes two years ago. Only made one big trip towing 7k Klm to Nfld this past summer.

The rockers are shot along with some rust on cab corners and bottom of tailgate.
I need front end work all ball joints and tie rods. Did front wheel bearings in last two years and one upper ball joint this summer. - pot holes are like craters!!!

So $2200 for body work and front end work maybe front right pad about $500.00 Fuel pump might godown the road could be $6-7 hundred Alternator replaced back at 130klm starter and new battery too.

They sell in good condition for $12k so lucky to get 10k on private sale for down payment on new to me 2013-2014

With all that said, now on a fixed income I could never afford a new one same specs as mine. Do I fix mine or take on a newer one with a 10k loan. Would I be taking on all those repairs again? 2013 under 100k going for 16- 18k.

On the other hand I know my truck intimately every noise caution light ( sensors of sensors )With the repairs around 3k I should get another 180-200klm that could get me another 6-8 years of towing with hopefully only a few more standard things like brakes hoses etc.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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I would keep looking for a newer one with low mileage.
My neighbor has a 2012 F-150 EcoBoost Platinum HD tow the works with only 18 K miles on it. Bought it thinking of getting into a TT. Never did and now he is talking about selling it one of these days.
I would look in Texas, AZ, FL where there area a lot of retires they are out there. An old truck is an old truck. Never will be a completely reliable machine and it nickel and dimes you to death.

[PKI]

Simple solution - fix it. You know what you have, so use it. Given, degradation to the point that cash flow to repair will pay for a new vehicle, then move on.

BIL just repaired blown head gaskets. Nephew just rebuilt a blown engine that was a rebuild sourced by the dealer, which had incorectly torqued rod caps, but was rejected for warranty, because of appearance mods. Just because it looks nice and runs, does not mean it will be a 300K vehicle.

Had an uncle who replaced engine/transmission periodically and kept his rig rolling. That was when a crate motor was $1000 and a rebuild transmission was $800. Doubt you are paying that now and quality control/warranty is minimal at best.

Body rot has traditionally been the trigger to transition. With the current fad of rat rod and restomod builds, rust correction need not be the same approach as a standard restoration. Fibreglass add-ons, Rino Shield, diamond plate, body wraps and replacement panels all make DIY repairs and prevention much easier.

The key for you is to do what you got to do. In the past life, laying on the ground to put in a clutch to get to work the next day was the only way to stay on budget. Hopefully you are past that and can afford a replacement when it is time. That allows you to make the choice that is best for you and your lifestyle.

The reality is that you can DIY a vehicle forever. The only justification to replace is to upgrade capability because you want to upgrade. If you have to pay to play, new or lightly used (take extreme care to define) and well maintained is better than constant repairs on the old grey mare.

Good luck with your decision. Hope to hear your story down the road. Pat

[05ModPod]

Thanks for all the input ha now my head is spinning even more

Perhaps I should take it in steps. Do the pay to play concept on the immediate mechanical issues for safety in towing and source new tires.

As we are in dead of winter right now bodywork can wait. In the spring if the financial situation improves I could start to hunt for newer truck with the least amount of mileage.

Do a comparison on financials to my mechanics complete overhaul potential cost I could be facing in the near future vs deposit, loan payments, insurance and regular service costs say over a 3-5 year period.

In the interim I could get a better looking rear bumper from the wreckers. And clean off and spray the rust that is showing. Did that last spring and she looked fine until winter came and the rust poked through again. Spend the money to have her undecoated to retard further rusting too.

Wish I could look in Texas but that is really not an option I’m up in Ontario Canada.

Thanks again

[crispyboy]

I would take a good hard look at the body and frame before I would spend anymore money. I am an avid diy guy but looking back I can tell you I have chased more repairs that I really should have down the rabbit hole. When body work starts to become a big issue I like to pull the plug. We also live in a rust belt area and once it starts it is tough to deter in the future. Body work seem outrageously expensive. There are lots of good used vehicles for sale, sometimes you have to get creative in figuring out where to find them. A repo from a bank or there are also guys who work on commission who can get into the good dealer auctions and find you a car. The open to the public auctions typically sell someone else's junk.
Two of my vehicles are rebuild titled vehicles. This type of purchase is not for everybody but if you go in with your eyes wide open and have an idea of what your looking for mechanically it may work out for you. Two months ago we acquired a 2016 vehicle that had only 13 miles on it for my wife. There had been a fire under the hood. The rebuilder replaced everything that was needed. Price was way below street value. It would take a critical eye for someone to know there was ever a problem with the car. The only caviot is that we will have to own this car for a long time because it will be harder to sell in the future (branded title) but we typically keep our vehicles a long time until they are completely wore out or wrecked. My insurance company had no issues with putting full coverage on the vehicle.
Speaking of getting a vehicle from Texas, my nephew bought a 2008 Duramax last month in Texas. The dealer picked him up at the airport, completed the paperwork and he drove it 1000 miles home. The truck was spotless. For the price paid he could sell it in our area and make $5000 because it was a rust free diesel pickup.

[AirstreamCSH]

The cost of the TV is one issue and has been addressed above quite well.
The other is the reliability of the vehicle and what you will do if the engine dies going uphill on day 2 of your outing in unfamiliar country while pulling the AS. What is it worth it to you not to lose 4 days, pay for costs of doing work away from home, alternate accommodations and towing your AS to a safe parking spot.

While I like to run my cars to 100,000 or so, the cost benefit ratio shifts when the purpose is enjoyment if scarce free time and the hassle of dealing with an AS in tow. Fortunately the rig failed near a quality mechanic shop but if I was 30min further, it would have been a mess to get extricated.

[Barretta2]

Seems to me you might want to weigh a few other issues before deciding. I just faced the similar issue with my wonderful TV...needed new tires, various smaller repairs, and I suspect some transmission issues were soon going to crop up. Over 100k miles. I weighed the repair costs, threw in probable remaining life—and then looked at rising interest rates, increasing new vehicles costs, and amazing tow capacity, etc. Bit the bullet and bought the 2018 Expedition. Those who—like me— need to finance a portion of a new TV might want to look hard at the signs pointing to rising interest rates, etc. This will almost certainly be my last TV, and it’s a good one at a (currently) reasonable price.

[CRH]

Good body work ain't cheap. Cheap body work ain't good. A Bondo job doesn't last long. When the body goes on a driver, it's time to move on.

[Fred L]

Beretta hit on my thought. Interest rates are bound to start climbing as the economy starts to grow.
Am actually in a similar situation now and looking for a good 3 year old low mileage used truck, mostly for towing and long trips.
My preference has been to buy a quality vehicle that lasts a long time as the repairs can really add up. Have put near 300,000 on my past 4 vehicles, (or people in my family that now drive them have), with nothing more than wheel bearings, A/C repair and regular maintenance like brakes, etc.
I have my favorite brand of vehicle that works for me, but I am sure everyone has their own preferences.

[Mollysdad]

On a fixed income, I hate debt.
However, waiting five years from now, TV prices will be double what they are now. Then it will be totally out of reach.
I bought my TV with the idea that it will last me forever.
No regrets. (I bought a certified two year old truck with a 100K power train warranty)

[TedandPam]

If you, or anyone else is interested, l have a 1995 F250 7.3L Diesel supercap with approximately 180,000 miles and no rust for sale. Very well maintained. Rust proofed from new. Cap and auxiliary fuel tank. Runs great. $10,000.00 (firm) Canadian. For more info contact me at; ted6garrett@gmail.com.

[05ModPod]

So thanks to everyone who chimed in with great advice and variables to ponder.
Although I hate to think of facing more debt in my current situation, safety durability and peace of mind towing won the vote.

Now it is deciding on the Truck. Make is decided I’m a GMC gal and my ole gal has done me well. I like the comfort and handling. The competitors are all within a few review points so not looking for a debate here. Everyone has their preferences.

I will be looking at the 2016-2017 and start the hunt in the Spring hopefully.

My question for now is anyone out there towing 5000lbs with the 4.3l V6 GMC Sierra either the double cab or crew cab with a 6.5 truck bed? Looks like there is only 2-3k difference in price from the 5.3 V8. But I have seen some great deals on the V6. And the tow rating is around 7100lbs. Just wondering on the flats and mountains. I’m not a speed demon and my ego does not keep me in the fast lane, that’s why they made the slow lane. More about wear and tear and longevity of the engine towing.

As for giving up the Airstream ha just not happening it was like deciding to cut off my right arm. But I still want to be able to have the AS as a home base and be able to take off for two nighters without the trailer. My solution, the A.R.E. Truck cap with the walk-in door option. It has the little door as well as being able to lift the back like an SUV hatch. I have found the perfect design to convert the back into a weekend camper. The cap also has various options for lighting power outlets and side opening windows for access to equipment while Hooked up. If need be I can get the rear hatch tent for off road camping.

My trailer is only 4300lbs and I travel light I only fill my fresh tank a quarter while running, fill while stationary and only fill one of the propane tanks. I have 80 pounds on the truck roof with the kayaks and about 500 in people and pets ride in the cab, and about 200 in the bed. So I’m well within the gwvr at 7100lbs.

So any thoughts re the V6. Vs V8. I will be looking at one with the extra tow package for sure. They have some nice upgraded features to the Sierra as of 2014 model- but still going to the 2016 as they added more cab creature comfort options.

Any and all input is appreciated. Oh and if you know of dealers that offer great deals on off lease or trade ins great. I’m willing to travel for the savings. Don’t mind considering importing if a particular one is eligible for import as not all are here in Canada.

[05ModPod]

Okay look what I went and did.

Modpod will be saying goodbye to her 9 year partner and next week will be hooking up with a younger model, tricked out for towing and comfort!

[kendrick.l.j]

Wow. Beautiful truck. Congratulations!

[Countryboy59]

Originally Posted by 05ModPod

Okay look what I went and did.

Modpod will be saying goodbye to her 9 year partner and next week will be hooking up with a younger model, tricked out for towing and comfort!

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What engine did you get?