Porsche Cayenne, VW Touareg, Audi Q7 owners

[Bier]

Originally Posted by Tom_T

Bier,

...

Another Audi option might be their A6 Allroad & RS6 Avant wagons - if they ever offer it's tow package here in the USA - since it has the same TT V8 (or more in the RS) - but they're traditional low center of gravity wagons.

https://www.audiusa.com/us/web/en/mo.../overview.html

https://www.audiusa.com/us/web/en/mo.../overview.html

...
Cheers!
Tom
///////

Thank you for the direction for research, I'll go look for the V8 Q7 per your message.

I would LOVE an RS6 as am one of those weird(?) folks that really dig sport wagons (volvo's, audi's, etc.).

[SteveNdebbie]

Originally Posted by BayouBiker

Just to reiterate, oversteer and understeer due to loss of tire traction resulting in lateral tire slide is a very different animal than oversteer due to varying cornering stiffness/ tire slip angle, where the tires remain firmly bonded to the road. The recovery is also different where you must quickly steer out of the corner so the front tires remain tracking with the rear tires and yaw angle does not increase. Respond too slowly while towing and the vehicle will lose control quickly.

So we are coming back to Ohio from Washington DC this last Friday and I am towing a 6x12’ u-haul cargo trailer with our MDX. Mind you that I am used to towing our 25’ AS Safari FB with a Hensley arrow hitch. This was with a ball hitch. We hit a snow/ice storm in the mountains along I68 in Maryland and West Virginia and I feel a slip of one front tire for a half second until the torque vectoring corrected our traction. Slow going but okay until off the interstate and on SR 94 near home when we crested and descended a steep curvy ice covered road. Suddenly no traction for the trailer or our MDX or the trailer. Downshifted to second gear but still had to pump brakes to slow our speed. This caused the control to worsen but somehow managed to stay in the center of the road to the bottom of the hill. First white knuckle experience towing. How would you steer for that situation?

[Mr. Merk]

Originally Posted by gypsydad

Thanks! So easy to install? How easy...do you think any AS dealer could do it? I looked at the spec, and could not tell how easy...appreciate any data you can share for the GLE350 if you have it? Thanks again.

Easy in that there is ZERO wiring. The only requirement is drilling some pilot holes for the self-tapping screws. The controller would need to be plugged into a domestic vehicle for the initial pairing of the handheld unit to the control box on the trailer. After that you can use it in any vehicle.

My trailer was hooked up to our Cayenne when I was setting mine up, so I just backed my GMC in close to it and plugged the trailer into the 7-pin for the initial pairing.

[Tom_T]

Originally Posted by Mr. Merk

Easy in that there is ZERO wiring. The only requirement is drilling some pilot holes for the self-tapping screws. The controller would need to be plugged into a domestic vehicle for the initial pairing of the handheld unit to the control box on the trailer. After that you can use it in any vehicle.

My trailer was hooked up to our Cayenne when I was setting mine up, so I just backed my GMC in close to it and plugged the trailer into the 7-pin for the initial pairing.

Hmmmm.....?

When I set up & paired my Tekonsha RF I did it with a rented 2013 Nissan Pathfinder, and haven't heard about the need to use a domestic/US built TV to do the first set-up. While before that I had towed our "new" 1960 Avion T20 home from Albuquerque with a 2012 F150, it had its own brake controller, so I doubt that had any affect on the later installed Tek RF.

However, it may be that you needed one of these LED-light-out-circuitry adapters, which has been a C/T/Q etc. must have for the electrical, which was much discussed & recommended earlier in this topic thread:

https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Tow-Ready/20142.html
.


Also - for those looking, I just saw that eTrailer has the RF on sale right now:
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Bra...ha/TK94FR.html
.


Although not a RF controller quirk, unless running the 7-pin/blade line through the RF unit as it's designed to do - when Ford went to the aluminum bodied F250 in the 2016 MY, they did something new with their trailer wiring & its ECU programming such that it wouldn't properly work the brake/marker/tail lights on our vintage 1960 Avion T20 trailer. They're all old school incandescent - so no LED out issues, and I even tried it with the above adapter.

We were forced to tow with just the brake lights working in daylight, got to our weekend camp with our other vintage trailer buddies, and once there pulled several of their TVs alongside the new rental F250 - including a 2013 F250, Dodge/RAM 2500, & GMC 2500 and ALL worked the trailer lights perfectly, but switched back to the F250 would not.

When back at home I had also hooked up my 1988 VW Vanagon Westfalia with a 7-to-4-pin adapter to our Avion, & the lights all worked fine, but the F250 hooked up before & after where it didn't work - which I was recording on my phone to show the befuddled Enterprise Truck Rental & 3 Ford dealers' staff & techs.

This F250 problem happened with 5 different rental trucks that year, so I gave up on Fords, because neither the local Ford dealership nor Enterprise could fix it, but both saw it was a problem. Ford lately has become notorious for new model roll-out glitches, and are very poor and lax about fixing the electronic issues.

So I had Enterprise Truck Rental switch us to RAM 2500 thereafter & had been back to perfect operations since. Too bad, because I preferred the F250s personally up to then. I don't know if Ford ever fixed their problem.

Although not a C/T/Q/etc. TV wiring problem per se, the newer F250 is a similar wiring problem to what C/T/Q owners were experiencing before the adapter above came out, as well as a couple of Land Rover, BMW & MBZ TV owners reported on here before getting that adapter.

Hope this helps!
Tom
///////

[Mr. Merk]

Originally Posted by Mr. Merk

The controller would need to be plugged into a domestic NON-German vehicle for the initial pairing of the handheld unit to the control box on the trailer. After that you can use it in any vehicle.

My trailer was hooked up to our Cayenne when I was setting mine up, so I just backed my GMC in close to it and plugged the trailer into the 7-pin for the initial pairing.

Notes:

Vehicles with certain late model European tow packages may require the use of a tester (TR20117 - sold separately) or another truck or SUV to pair the receiver and transmitter.

Originally Posted by Tom_T

Hmmmm.....?

When I set up & paired my Tekonsha RF I did it with a rented 2013 Nissan Pathfinder, and haven't heard about the need to use a domestic/US built TV to do the first set-up.

However, it may be that you needed one of these LED-light-out-circuitry adapters, which has been a C/T/Q etc. must have for the electrical

fixed it

However, I haven't had to use one of the adapters with our 2008 Cayenne/2007 Airstream combination. Everything works as it should.

[BayouBiker]

Originally Posted by SteveNdebbie

(snip...)
How would you steer for that situation?

Same as on wet pavement as previously described only more gently still.

[Imdakine1]

Originally Posted by cjstang32

1. With respect to the trailer tow mode on these vehicles, is it engaged when a tow bar is engaged, or when the trailer electrical is engaged (assuming both receiver and 7-wire are factory, of course)?



2. I realize that you mentioned that each of these vehicles has different tweaks, but does anyone know generally what changes in tow mode? I'd assumed shift points for the trans and I'd heard that the power tailgate is disengaged. From your post it looks like there's some anti-sway as well. Anything else?



3. Is the Hensley cub considered a WD hitch?



Thanks,

Kurt

I have an Audi Q8 and would like to know how best to make sure the 7 pin that came factory installed with the hitch is “active”? I’ve heard in the past to make sure it is active from the airstream dealer.

Brake Controller?

I also am trying to figure out which brake controller to get. We won’t be using any other vehicle as a tow vehicle so I believe the tow package that came with the Q8 is pre-wired for under the dash. Alternatively we can use the 12v I guess as well?

If we try to use the pre-wire should we install before we pick up the Airstream? Our dealer suggests a Bluetooth one as they said they have issues with Audi Q7, Q8 and Porsche...

[Imdakine1]

Originally Posted by mikextr

If you stick with your 2/3 of max rule of thumb, then there really is no need for weight distribution or sway control. I've been "freeballing" for years with my Cayenne and 67 Overlander, but I'm well within your 2/3 rule. Porsche says not to use WD so I will follow their guidelines. I have never had a problem with sway so I've never considered adding any type of sway control. My Cayenne is so rock solid, that the semi drivers have white knuckles on the steering wheel when they pass me because the air blast redirected back at them



If other folks want to tow heavier trailers and use WD to achieve their goals, I'm all for that. Personally, I think a Cayenne could handle a 34 footer with ease if set up correctly.

I’ve been trying to read this whole thread as I’ve been on it for a while deciding on our tow vehicle. We ended up on the Audi Q8.

Like Porsche, Audi doesn’t like the weight distribution hitch. As such we are trying to decide we will will do a reinforcement of the hitch or just use the ball mount with the 2021 23’ Flying Cloud 23FB.

Can you describe your overall setup which you say is not using a WDH and what is the specs of your AS?

Q8:
7,700 lbs towing
770 lbs tongue
1,124 payload (Me, wife, and 3 year old daughter would be about 320lbs)


Airstream

Dry Weight
4,806 lbs.
Payload Capacity
1,194 lbs.
GVWR
6,000 lbs.
Hitch Weight
467 lbs.

[Imdakine1]

Originally Posted by mojo

The towing capacity for Cayennes, Touaregs. and Q7s is 7,700lbs.
In Europe, they do not allow WD hitches and their hitch rating is configured at 8% which equals 616lbs. In the US you can use a WD hitch and the hitch rating is 10% which is 770lbs. The main issue is payload. The OEM hitches are substantial, but if you wish to exceed the hitch weight, some suggest reinforcing the hitch. Main thing to look at is the payload and axle ratings. You can exceed the limits easily with anything larger than a 23' AS and a loaded trunk.

I towed for several years with a Touareg V8 and a V10 Diesel. As I increased in trailer sizes, had to eventually upgrade to trucks for increased payloads. I will not argue about handling, that all depends on the capabilities of the guy behind the wheel.

Thanks for your post. Where did you read or hear that Audi would allow a WDH in the US? We have an Audi Q8 and was told Audi does not recommend WDH. Our Airstream dealer doesn’t like Audi Q7, Q8, and Porsche especially newer models due to not allowing WDH and that they are new technology driven.

We are trying to decide if we should reinforce the hitch and do a WDH. Below is our Flying Cloud 23FB specs. One issue is the lite tongue and may cause swaying ?

Dry Weight
4,806 lbs.
Payload Capacity
1,194 lbs.
GVWR
6,000 lbs.
Hitch Weight
467 lbs.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions and where you heard Audi, VW would allow WDH?

[Imdakine1]

Originally Posted by mojo

Not an hypothesis, factual information direct from VW. They actually sent me a printed sticker for my receiver with the 7700 tow rating and 770 hitch weight. Also confirmed the acceptable use of WD hitches in US.

The numbers you get are in line with what I know the Q8 has from the sticker as well:

Towing capacity: 7,700
Tongue: 770
Payload: 1,124 (my family is a weight of 320lb)

Unsure how we fit with all of this yet....

[Imdakine1]

Originally Posted by Tom_T

Hmmmm.....?

When I set up & paired my Tekonsha RF I did it with a rented 2013 Nissan Pathfinder, and haven't heard about the need to use a domestic/US built TV to do the first set-up. While before that I had towed our "new" 1960 Avion T20 home from Albuquerque with a 2012 F150, it had its own brake controller, so I doubt that had any affect on the later installed Tek RF.

However, it may be that you needed one of these LED-light-out-circuitry adapters, which has been a C/T/Q etc. must have for the electrical, which was much discussed & recommended earlier in this topic thread:

https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Tow-Ready/20142.html
.


Also - for those looking, I just saw that eTrailer has the RF on sale right now:
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Bra...ha/TK94FR.html
.


Although not a RF controller quirk, unless running the 7-pin/blade line through the RF unit as it's designed to do - when Ford went to the aluminum bodied F250 in the 2016 MY, they did something new with their trailer wiring & its ECU programming such that it wouldn't properly work the brake/marker/tail lights on our vintage 1960 Avion T20 trailer. They're all old school incandescent - so no LED out issues, and I even tried it with the above adapter.

We were forced to tow with just the brake lights working in daylight, got to our weekend camp with our other vintage trailer buddies, and once there pulled several of their TVs alongside the new rental F250 - including a 2013 F250, Dodge/RAM 2500, & GMC 2500 and ALL worked the trailer lights perfectly, but switched back to the F250 would not.

When back at home I had also hooked up my 1988 VW Vanagon Westfalia with a 7-to-4-pin adapter to our Avion, & the lights all worked fine, but the F250 hooked up before & after where it didn't work - which I was recording on my phone to show the befuddled Enterprise Truck Rental & 3 Ford dealers' staff & techs.

This F250 problem happened with 5 different rental trucks that year, so I gave up on Fords, because neither the local Ford dealership nor Enterprise could fix it, but both saw it was a problem. Ford lately has become notorious for new model roll-out glitches, and are very poor and lax about fixing the electronic issues.

So I had Enterprise Truck Rental switch us to RAM 2500 thereafter & had been back to perfect operations since. Too bad, because I preferred the F250s personally up to then. I don't know if Ford ever fixed their problem.

Although not a C/T/Q/etc. TV wiring problem per se, the newer F250 is a similar wiring problem to what C/T/Q owners were experiencing before the adapter above came out, as well as a couple of Land Rover, BMW & MBZ TV owners reported on here before getting that adapter.

Hope this helps!
Tom
///////

Can you please describe the adapter that you mention Q7/ Q8 maybe need to order? Possibly his is an issue and a reason my AS dealer really detest the Q7 & Q8 which is super annoying g to me...

[Andrew T]

We are trying to decide if we should reinforce the hitch and do a WDH. Below is our Flying Cloud 23FB specs. One issue is the lite tongue and may cause swaying ?

Dry Weight
4,806 lbs.
Payload Capacity
1,194 lbs.
GVWR
6,000 lbs.
Hitch Weight 467 lbs.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions and where you heard Audi, VW would allow WDH?[/QUOTE]


There are at least a couple of thousand people towing with Touareg's Q7's and Cayenne's with weight distribution. It is the only way to tow safely especially in North America, but even in Europe it would be a big asset.

The Mercedes GL in this article has about 100,000 towing miles on it. Most of those with tall gangly heavy box trailers.

https://rvlifemag.com/towing-with-a-uni-body-vehicle/

We do strengthen the receiver for higher hitch weights but for a 23FB the factory receiver is fine as long as you use the correct weight distribution equipment and configure it correctly. Don't let the dealer sell you an Equalizer brand or a Blue Ox for this application. If you like send me an email and I can send you information. andy@canamrv.ca

Once it is setup properly it will be extremely stable. Look at the Mercedes C350 video that is a 23FB on the back.

https://www.canamrv.ca/towing-expertise/videos/

Brake Control's are easy to install on the prewired models. The harness is usually stuck in foam under the dash near the base of the windshield. A Tekonsia Prodigy P2 works very well with it. The Tekonsia RF also works well.


I hope this helps.

Andy

[Mr. Merk]

Originally Posted by Imdakine1

I have an Audi Q8 and would like to know how best to make sure the 7 pin that came factory installed with the hitch is “active”?

I also am trying to figure out which brake controller to get.

If your Q8 came with the factory tow hitch and package the connector will be active already.

There's been a lot of recent posts about the brake controller. The Tekonsha Prodigy RF Wireless Trailer Brake Controller is a no-brainer and involves no modifications to your Q8.

Originally Posted by Imdakine1

Thanks for your post. Where did you read or hear that Audi would allow a WDH in the US? We have an Audi Q8 and was told Audi does not recommend WDH.

We are trying to decide if we should reinforce the hitch and do a WDH.

Page 118 of the owners manual says no WDH. In fact, right there in the owners manual it recommends maxing out (not exceeding) tongue weight for stability. Your trailer is far below max tongue weight, so why would you distribute the weight off of the hitch?

That being said I use an Andersen hitch, but I don't adjust it for a lot of WD with the Airstream. Our last trailer had a big generator mounted on the tongue so I used more WD and it worked great. If I still had that setup I would consider reinforcing the hitch. The Andersen hitch works great for sway control and is very simple/easy to use.

I'm not sure why you'd consider reinforcing your hitch if your tongue weight is well within capacity and there is no need for a lot of WD tension.

Originally Posted by Imdakine1

Can you please describe the adapter that you mention Q7/ Q8 maybe need to order? Possibly his is an issue and a reason my AS dealer really detest the Q7 & Q8 which is super annoying g to me...

https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Tow-Ready/20142.html

I haven't needed one. Has anyone else? But for about $20 it may be worth ordering one with your brake controller just in case.

[Tom_T]

Originally Posted by Imdakine1

Can you please describe the adapter that you mention Q7/ Q8 maybe need to order? Possibly his is an issue and a reason my AS dealer really detest the Q7 & Q8 which is super annoying g to me...

Conratz Imdakine1 on your "new" Q8, after the extensive research & vehicle search that you've done!

After responding to your above question, I'll respond to some others you posted below that reply.

Trailer Wiring Adapter:

The adapter itself was the first link in my post which you quoted in your question for the adapter - but try hooking-up electrical & hitching-up first, to see if you actually need the lights-out circuitry adapter. They're not super costly, so not a big $ out if you want to order anyway. Here are the adapter & Tekonsha RF Brake Controller links from my prior post again:

<snip with added comments in italics>

https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Tow-Ready/20142.html
.
A description of what it does is on that product page, plus you can look at it's Q&As there for other Q8/Q7 owners Q&A info.


Also - for those looking, I just saw that eTrailer has the RF on sale right now:
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Bra...ha/TK94FR.html
.

Both items are available from other retailers & the manufacturers' websites' shop as well, so check around for best prices.

<end snip>


Brake Controllers:

FYI - All of the Porsche, VW & Audi SUVs/CUVs that have tow options already have the under dash wiring off the main chassis wiring harness, but some models/years require a "wiring pigtail" that is supposed to be supplied from the factory in the glove box. If required for your Q8 but not there, then ask the dealer to order you one as a missing warranty covered part.

That said - I think that it's still better to use the Tekonsha RF brake controller (2nd link above) mounted on the trailer because:

1.) You don't mess up the dash for yourself &/or future sale to a non-trailer person. Porsche & Audi folks tend to be picky, as are BMW, MBZ, LR, Lex, Inf, etc. premium SUV/CUV buyers; and prefer their vehicles unmolested.

2.) You don't have to reach for the boost button at the under-dash unit, because the RF's Handheld control unit is right in your lap, center console or wherever is most convenient for you.

3.) The RF unit itself is on the trailer for ready use on another TV if you have a breakdown & need to use an alternate TV, as well as if you later get another TV & keep the trailer (or to switch the RF to a new trailer).

4.) The RF & under-dash Tekonsha Prodigy are both about the same price, easy to install & use, & same functionality - with the above RF advantages.


You can order the RF unit yourself, & then have the AS dealer mount your Tekonsha on the trailer A-frame or wherever you specify (must be line-of sight - so not behind the LP tanks nor rock guards, etc.) before you take delivery of the new AS & tow it home. Or you can take it there with a cordless drill bit & screw bits to mount it on the a-frame yourself.

Hooking up will just be a matter of plugging the 7-pin/blade connector from the RF box into the Q8 (trailer's 7-pin plugs into the RF box), plugging the handheld unit into the 12v/Cig Lighter outlet in the cabin, & then Pairing it to your Q8 the first time & RF remembers it thereafter) & setting the boost (I use & Andy T. recommends 6.0-6.2) using the RF's instructions. Then drive off & test the brakes, & off you go!


WD on Porsche, VW & Audi SUVs/CUVs:

WD use on C/T/Q etc. P/V/A vehicles has been covered in recent and earlier posts, and you should go back & read them, as well as the early one from the Porsche Dealer Tech/member/tow-guy who posted the actual Factory Service Manual specs for the Cayenne's WD rating & use.

Yes their P/V/A owners manuals give conflicting information - from both their factory service manuals - and from their official DOT/SAE & TUV tow ratings & tests. Also, their hitches with the proper USA/DOT/SAE rating decals show both distributed/"non-load bearing" & direct/ball/"load bearing" ratings, as well as for braked & unbraked trailers.

So this above quoted Audi manual (pgs 120-121 ~ not pg 118 BTW) prohibiting is surprising that Audi is being so specific, in conflict with their own SAE J2807 testing requirements which P/V/A tout so much that they use to rate all of their USA/Canada tow capable vehicles. I can only guess that Audi North America & PCNA/VWNA are trying to illegally & improperly limit their warranty claims on vehicles used for towing within their own J2807 test regime, which probably won't hold up if challenged - especially in a court case or NHSTA complain setting.

This is the Motor/Truck Trend article describing the J2807 test process & the SAE description of same:

http://www.trucktrend.com/how-to/tow...s-the-standard
(note that the test includes driver & passenger at 150 lbs each in set-up)
.


https://www.sae.org/standards/content/j2807_201602/

For Audi et al to test & rate their vehicles under J2807, and then try to eliminate use of the obviously passing & fully capable TV/SUV from using aspects which were tested & passed - is just bad faith dealings with customers, & a load of hooey!

Of course, they did bring us the Dieselgate EPA/CARB cheating scam!

Also note that on that Audi manual pg 120 that the next 2nd caution after WD, is to not use trailers with electric brakes! What the heck!? Do they actually know what the heck they're talking about!?

Following that caution would prohibit towing ANY travel trailer, car hauler, etc. with electric brakes, which is 99% of them - and includes all Airstreams & vintage kin!

They cannot possibly have that right, nor do they have the WD right given the J2807 test requirements.


WD/AS Hitch Options & Reinforcement Needs:

Double check with Andy T (posted above) about using the Hensley Cub with your 23' AS - because if yours too has the 6000 lb max wt rating, then you're okay with it as about $1000 less than the Hensley Arrow & ProPride heavier duty versions. I know that Andy likes the EAZ hitch, but is also good for using the Hensley/ProPride ones too, and he's given you a great direct reply as to his 23FB set-up in his post above.

Having chatted by PM during your TV search, I really feel that the Hensley Cub (or Arrow/PP if over 6000 lbs) will be better for you, because:

1. You leave the entire WD & AS hitch unit & tension springs permanently mounted on the trailer once installed - so no greasy hands & storing of mounting/dismounting the WD/AS hitch parts while parked at home or campsites - in addition to ease of storing it all together at your home in the city;

2. You can far more easily & precisely adjust the WD to level the TV & TT with their crank jacks/towers (than with backbreaking chains);

3. You can open the rear hatch while hitched (for C/T/Q7 - & Q8 most probably, although I don't know the Q8 for sure);

4. You'll have more maneuverability with its tighter turning radius - especially when backing in/pulling out at home in the city;

5. The H/PP eliminates sway & gives a very stable ride for far less stressful towing & long trips, and comfortable enough for your wife & maybe mother-in-law to drive the rig (I know that you're taking/took her back to NY)

EAZ, Anderson & others use friction, tension, cams, etc. to resist sway - whereas the H/PP eliminates sway completely by it's parallel arms design only allowing side-to-side movement of the trailer in the same line as the TV while towing forward (the H/PP allow tighter turns & normal turning at the hitch when backing-up in reverse).


7-Pin Active:

Best to take it to another neighbor or dealer's trailer & plug it in to your Q8 to verify that at least all of the trailer running & brake lights, etc. work properly. That may also tell you if you need to use the adapter above.

While they should be active if factory (or dealer) installed, as should the hitch & tow sensing, Q8 tow mode programming, etc. all be properly installed, programmed, etc. - "stuff" happens. So a real world test with a trailer is the best double check of proper operations.


Good luck & post some pix whenever you're all set up to tow away!

Cheers!
Tom
///////

[BayouBiker]

The PPP hitches are quite effective but it is a marketing talking point to say they eliminate sway completely. When articulation angle is less than 2 degrees the geometry makes it difficult but it is not impossible to initiate and maintain sway. Over 2 degrees and sway is quite possible. Other designs are easier, more convenient and less messy than PPP hitches, some also provide equally precise WD tensioning though many don't. That being said, for the reasons you mention, the Hensley Cub is an excellent choice for this combination.

[Imdakine1]

Originally Posted by Andrew T

We are trying to decide if we should reinforce the hitch and do a WDH. Below is our Flying Cloud 23FB specs. One issue is the lite tongue and may cause swaying ?

Dry Weight
4,806 lbs.
Payload Capacity
1,194 lbs.
GVWR
6,000 lbs.
Hitch Weight 467 lbs.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions and where you heard Audi, VW would allow WDH?

There are at least a couple of thousand people towing with Touareg's Q7's and Cayenne's with weight distribution. It is the only way to tow safely especially in North America, but even in Europe it would be a big asset.

The Mercedes GL in this article has about 100,000 towing miles on it. Most of those with tall gangly heavy box trailers.

https://rvlifemag.com/towing-with-a-uni-body-vehicle/

We do strengthen the receiver for higher hitch weights but for a 23FB the factory receiver is fine as long as you use the correct weight distribution equipment and configure it correctly. Don't let the dealer sell you an Equalizer brand or a Blue Ox for this application. If you like send me an email and I can send you information. andy@canamrv.ca

Once it is setup properly it will be extremely stable. Look at the Mercedes C350 video that is a 23FB on the back.

https://www.canamrv.ca/towing-expertise/videos/

Brake Control's are easy to install on the prewired models. The harness is usually stuck in foam under the dash near the base of the windshield. A Tekonsia Prodigy P2 works very well with it. The Tekonsia RF also works well.


I hope this helps.

Andy[/QUOTE]

Hi Andy,

Thanks in advance. I was going to contact you last week but got tied up with work. I hope to contact you this week to discuss potential setup. I believe the Q8 should be similar to the Q7 but with a lower payload. But should be able to handle our 23FB...?

[Imdakine1]

Thank you so much for your detailed reply. I will go through it very closely in the morning but wanted to thank you in advance. Being new at towing and trying figure out how neat to do a setup for the new Q8 is a bit overwhelming. We are pleased with our choice and I’m sure it’s debatable by many but for our overall specs we feel we are within range to be successful with towing our 23FB Flying Cloud when it arrives (Feb?)

Thanks again in advance and I’m sure I’ll provide any additional questions to the forum or to you directly.

Regards,
Marc

[TRIPPPIN]

The advantages of the RF have been stated several times in this thread but not as much on the disadvantages. So here is a bit of the other side of the argument. Full disclosure I opted for the P2. From my perspective here are the disadvantages.

1. RF is double the price of the P2
2. If you want to tow any other trailer with electric brakes with the Q8 you will have to uninstall the trailer module and reinstall it on the trailer you want to tow. A P2 is only installed once.
3. In an emergency you have to find and locate locate the trailer brake button on the hand held module to activate the trailer brakes. If you have a P2 mounted you can blindly locate the brake lever as it is always there in the same place. I guess you could mount the hand held module somehow but it doesn't have provided hardware for that.
4. Is RF as reliable as hard wire when it comes to potential failures, my opinion is that I trust a hard wire connection more.
5. It has been reported that many of those who have tried to pair the RF with European SUV cannot do it successfully and require hooking up to another NA made vehicle to get it to pair.
6. The handheld unit requires that you have a 12V outlet available to power it. This can be a problem if you run out of 12V outlets to operate things like; trailer rear camera monitor, trailer TPMS, phones etc. or try to fit everything into a 12V outlet splitter.

[MsTara]

Hello,

I just want to jump in on the whole RF Brake Controller/European Car/Set up/Etc.

1) I love my Tekonsha RF Brake Controller!
2) I drive a 2018 Porsche Macan GTS
3) Former tow vehicle 2016 Porsche Macan S
4) I tow a 2018 Airstream Sport

I did not need to utilize any special tool when originally setting up the 2018 Porsche with the brand new Tekonsha. I did buy the "special extender" for the 2016 and when I towed with it, it created intermittent power fluctuations that messed up my trailer brakes. The need for the extender or utilizing a non European car is dependent upon the age of the vehicle.

I have had ZERO issues with my RF in 4 years of towing. I did not want to add anything else in my car or connect into the Porsche electronics


I hope this helps.

[Mr. Merk]

Originally Posted by TRIPPPIN

3. In an emergency you have to find and locate locate the trailer brake button on the hand held module to activate the trailer brakes. If you have a P2 mounted you can blindly locate the brake lever as it is always there in the same place. I guess you could mount the hand held module somehow but it doesn't have provided hardware for that.

The controller itself lays right next to my leg, sort of wedged between the seat bolster and the center console with the button pointed up for easy access while plugged into the 12v outlet on the back of the center console.

The RF is ideal for us in that we have ONE trailer and MULTIPLE tow vehicles.
I've used the same controller in 3 different tow vehicles, and swapped it from our old trailer to our new one.