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Old 08-16-2006, 06:49 PM   #21
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Boy Nick ,thats says it all ,and your so right .The manafactures really inflate
the tow ratings ,some smaller suvs are rated to tow more than a suburban .
How can that be I ask ? This bias thing as i said ,i don't like the inference
in the word ,that someone is just a one way person towards somthing or some vehical .Most find that a certain tow vehical does the best job ,so
they will express that ,as the original poster has asked for input on his
choice he might be making ,as he does not have a tv yet.Im not biased
towards my travelall ,and I really like it .I recommended the titan after all.
I have traveled to minnesota ,colorado ,nevada ,utah,wyoming,arizona etc.
and encountered the big rigs doing 90 passing me at night in nebraska!!
I know first hand how those trucks can suck you over at that speed ,had one
blast me in the tunnel somewhere west of utah .Had a semi cross the line
into my lane on 166 east of highway 101 on a bridge no less ,talk about white knuckles ,I had control but it was dicy at best ,anyway I recommend to
anyone to get the right tv ,match it to the trailer and look beyond the
tow rating as the only factor in a tv decision. It only takes one harrowing
experience to realize that your vehical may not be up to the task.

Scott
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Old 08-16-2006, 07:13 PM   #22
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Wotocho , I would suggest that you use the gross weight of the trailer when doing your calculations . I think you will find that you will be very close to it when ready to travel. The dry weight is only usefull for estimating how much cargo you can carry ( gross wt. - dry wt. ) . The ONLY way to know for sure is to have it weighed. There are several good threads that outline the procedure for figuring all of this out. Try a search , and good luck
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Old 08-16-2006, 08:11 PM   #23
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Good thoughts Nick on mfr's ratings, bang on I believe. That said, what are people left with, without having towed the specific combo? Opinion and guesswork.

It's amazing how defensive people get when a non-specific inference of advise bias is thrown out there. I'm certainly not going to dispute years of research that shows that any opinion is inherently biased. It's impossible for a human to be completely objective...but perhaps that's wrong. I'm biased toward my opinion which I put out there regarding the original question posed, which was asking about a specific tow vehicle combination (Frontier and Safari). It's too bad this thread may turn into another muddled "A big TV is better" thread as there are hundreds already.

Back to the original question.


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Old 08-16-2006, 08:30 PM   #24
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For what it's worth...

I had a 2001 Ford Excursion (the big Kahoona) and it towed a 26' Terry with double insulated walls and a big slide (9000 lbs) with ease. The X has a long wheelbase, short overhang, a decent engine, and did very well.

I've now got a Dodge with the turbo diesel, four doors, and a long bed. It tows even better than the X did. There's a definite relationship between length of tow vehicle and stability. The Ram won't turn on a dime, but it does pull well. And it gets better mileage than the gas V-10 did while making more power and way more torque.

Count me in the Pro-Turbo-Diesel fan club.
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Old 08-16-2006, 09:17 PM   #25
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Smile Toyota Tundra 2006 4x4, Access cab V8

We bought our tow vehicle before deciding to purchase an Airstream and have received conflicting advice from the dealers about how large a trailer we can safely tow. The Tundra has the Tow Package that says it is rated for 6900 pounds max tow capacity...it has heavy duty 130A alternator, transmission oil cooler and 7 pin connector with converter. It has 271 HP 4.7 liter 4 cam sfi v8 w/vvt-i engine 5 speed automatic transmission with all weather guard (heavy duty battery, starter, heater and heated side mirrors) no heated seats-

We were told by one dealer that we should not tow more than the 22' or 23' (5200' empty) but another dealer told us we could safely tow the 27' Safari that is rated empty at about 5900 pounds. I am beginning to think after reading your posts that we should maybe stick with a Bambi. Does anyone have experience with this vehicle and what the maximun trailer size we can SAFELY tow? Thanks, paula
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Old 08-17-2006, 12:06 AM   #26
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hi wotocho and welcome to the forums....
congrats on the trailer and a great series of questions...
you have done some homework before posting. appreciate that....

here are some thoughts on your post/questions...


Quote:
Originally Posted by wotocho
We're taking the plunge and possibly buying a twin axel 1975 23ft Safari (dry weight 3465 lbs, tongue weight 570lb).
i see these as the figures reported on the a/s home page...
are you sure these are correct for the specific trailer in question?
it is 35 years old...any mods, additions or changes? do you plan any. i'd like to know exactly what the trailer weights now....
does it have the original axles/what is their condition? newer ones/same rating?
is there a spare tire somewhere. bigger lp bottles or batteries. solar? and so on....
assume dry weight of 3500...tongue could be as low as 350 and still tow safely...so some repositioning of stored good and gear can reduce or increase the tongue load..this matters because the frontier is rated for 600lbs approx.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wotocho
We currently have a 2000 manual transmission Xterra which we like so we're looking at the Nissan Frontier 4x4 crew cab to satisfy our day to day needs as well as a tow vehicle.


so the frontier needs to serve as a daily driver along with t.v.? how often and how far are you gonna tow? could u keep the exterra and buy and older but higher capacity t.v.?

Quote:
Originally Posted by wotocho
Reading the forum, most recommend a 15-20% leeway in tow capacity.


these are margins i've seen and try to follow.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wotocho
A few questions in trying to determine if the Frontier fits the bill.


Quote:
Originally Posted by wotocho
The Gross Combined Vehicle weight is 11,000 lbs and the Gross Vehicle Weight Rate is 5600 lbs. The tow capacity is 6100 lb. The wheel base of the Frontier is 126 inches.
finding these figures is a good start. capacity and wheel base are useful. another issue is 'towing reputation'...which is subjective...but track records are still useful. the frontier is a new model...it may be that a nissan forum has more info from current users on this issue....

my reading suggests the frontier is built on the same/modified frame as the titan/armada....which are known to be pretty solid...and much better than the last frontier...for towing.

frontier has pretty good power figures...(over 250/290 for hp/torque) and 4 disc brakes...but no tranny cooler or enlarged oil reserve.

i would not opt for the titan...too expensive for not much more capacity.
a used truck with proper drivetrain would be a better option than a new titan imo...

Quote:
Originally Posted by wotocho
What is your typical weight of your trailer's contents (water, food, accessories etc) for a family of three? We've been told about 1000 lbs.
seems like a reasonable estimate.....
how big is the freshwater tank and lp gas...what is the actual weight for these...
what size holding...i like to figure my contents to include FULL holding tanks, yes grey and black if it has 'em...it just adds to the safety margin.

and do you really want to weight everything closely every trip? most people do carry more than they expect, still it is possilbe to travel lightly...as bradk does...so too do others here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wotocho
What is the typical tongue weight? We have read between 10 % & 15% of the loaded trailer weight and information on older model Airstreams indicate the tongue weight is 570 lbs, they are both similar figures but which is "more" accurate?


accurate only comes from a measurement. tongue load can be reduced some. loading over the axle and center is ideal for handling...

Quote:
Originally Posted by wotocho
Considering toys, people, options on the vehicle, tongue weight and a trailer payload of 750 lbs we would exceed the tow vehicle payload by approximately 100lb, the GVWR by 100 lbs but not the GCWR.


well i asked here last week and no one answered...
"if one had to exceed a limit...gcwr or gvwr....which would one choose...no one offered a reply.

going over gvwr for the tv isn't wise. brakes, tires, bearings, axles and suspension are packaged for this figure...so increased wear, braking distance and slower accleration are expected....also handling may be worse... exceeding gcwr or trailer limits isn't wise either. brakes, suspension, frame and shell will suffer.

will it all stop safely going down hill or with a blowout or panic event? that is always in my thinking....

Quote:
Originally Posted by wotocho
Does the weight distribution hitch help reduce the effective vehicle payload by distributing hitch load over all axels in the combined unit?


no. w/d improved distribution of tongue mass to the front axle and trailer axle. it does not allow one to exceed rated limits...

also did you figure hitch mass into the payload? many forget this...

Quote:
Originally Posted by wotocho
Our reserve tow capacity would be about 9% or 500 lbs. Is that cutting it too fine?


yes. but many are closer or over limit. they don't post much. it is an invite for attacks. i'd want more margin...but it depends some on travel expectations...2-3 short trips a year, taken slowly on the flats? or 30k miles a year, and a trip weekly. mountains, snow and desert....? like to drive fast?


Quote:
Originally Posted by wotocho
Any feedback from experienced travelers is appreciated.


so far not a lot of frontier posters here. i have seen favorable comparios of the the frontier to the new durango...there are some durango users here..

Quote:
Originally Posted by wotocho
Yeah! Putting the horse ahead of the cart since we don't have a tow vehicle capable of pulling the trailer.
well at least you've admitted this, started doing the leg work, and asked some good questions.

IF i already owned a frontier, and then purchased the trailer...i might try the combo. i would also want fresh suspension on the trailer, new tires and new brake bits...with good stopping power, and a great hitch...i like the haha. might have to limit cargo and toys. travel without water....and so on.

IF i hadn't purchased the frontier yet...i would likely look for a used tv with better towing capacity. get the safety margin higher. sacrifice 1-3 mpg for towing capacity. most people tweak their vintage trailers which doesn't make them lighter...also you may quickly move to a larger or new unit...and again be back to tv limitations...

hope this helps. thanks for asking for opinions...post again soon.

cheers

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Old 08-17-2006, 06:39 AM   #27
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pjpoll ~ First of all, I have a 2003 Tundra and I love the truck. It is a very good TV for me. My 75 Trade Wind is rated at around 4200 pounds dry. That was 31 years ago and like me, it has put on a few pounds over the years. On the flats I can go faster then I want, but on steep grades I could use a few more ponies under the hood. As far as the numbers you are looking at, 5900 pounds dry is really pushing the limit. After you add food, water, propane, pots & pans, cloths and other stuff you would be at or above the max tow weight for the truck. The other number you need to consider is the GCWR (Weight of the TV and trailer together). The Tundra is rated at 11,800 pounds and the empty truck weights 4500. That leaves you with 7300 for the trailer and everything you put in the truck. If you add the weight of people, pets, gas and other items in the truck and subtract it from the 7300 pound limit, you will see that the 6900 pound tow capasity is not real. I think the 27 foot 5900 pound trailer is too much. The smaller trailer is much closer to the limits of the trailer. The 2007 Tundra would be a much better match with the 5.7 engine and 10,000 lb towing limit.
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Old 08-17-2006, 09:39 AM   #28
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One comment I wanted to add to this post; upgrading to a ¾ ton chassis, in my opinion, is what really makes the difference in towing. Whether you go gas, diesel, etc the motor is not what opened my eyes. Any of the motors in the big trucks can move a huge load. Going from a ½ ton to a heavy duty chassis makes all the difference in control. When we acquired our Excella we had the ½ ton Suburban (no slouch!), and were still within safe tow ratings (7700#), but getting closer to the max, I could feel us getting pushed around. Not like our previous 21’ camper, where the Suburban was way more TV than camper. One trip like that was enough. Now that we have a ¾ ton, the TV is in control again. My experience is it is much better to have an over matched tow vehicle (there’s that 85% rule again!). We find ourselves camping more and more, I like hitching up and not having to worry about a white knuckle ride, will my tranny over heat, etc., etc. If you start with a “white knuckle” express, you may think this is normal. It would be hard to know the difference in towing experiences if you have never experienced both. I am fortunate to be able to say I have done so.
We went diesel because of the perceived economy versus gas. The verdict is still out on that (I am getting 15mpg towing, about what I got not towing with the Suburban) so I guess it is a little better. Only 2500 miles on the truck now, time will tell how good that gets.
In summary, my experience has been; when you start to get over 6000# or so, you should really be looking at ¾ ton vehicles. Match your TV to your load; the 85% makes a lot of sense.
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Old 08-21-2006, 11:01 AM   #29
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Thanks to everyone for their input. Its all great food for thought and has got us thinking that we may be cutting it a bit too fine. Known for being a collector (I can't walk a beach without picking something up to take home - to do what with? Drives John nuts I'm sure.) we'd be better off with a little more breathing room. There's still plenty of number crunching to do in our research.

It certainly helps to get all the help of everyone out there. Being rookies, I'm sure we'll be posting more questions once we get our AS. Can't wait! Thanks again.
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Old 08-23-2006, 05:52 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottanlily
Boy Nick ,thats says it all ,and your so right .The manafactures really inflate
the tow ratings ,some smaller suvs are rated to tow more than a suburban .
How can that be I ask ?
Scott
???
A properly equipped Suburban is rated to tow 12,000 lbs.
Which small SUV can has a greater tow rating than that?
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Old 08-23-2006, 08:07 AM   #31
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"Improperly Equipped Suburbans..."

A Suburban picked off dealer lot with small V8, 2WD and 3.73 rear axle ratio is rated for a lot less than 12,000 pounds.. Closer to 6K.. Those are the ones Scott was referring to, I believe.. Getting one of the max towing models takes patience and either special order or having dealer search through the data base for a long while to find one, at least in many parts of the country... In our area, dealers stock inventory for low MSRP and high fuel mileage, not for towing capacity...

Any mid-size SUV or pickup claiming to safely and reliably handle 7,500 pounds or more probably had sales brochures subject to final edits in marketing, not engineering..

John McG
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Old 08-23-2006, 08:40 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Condoluminum
A Suburban picked off dealer lot with small V8, 2WD and 3.73 rear axle ratio is rated for a lot less than 12,000 pounds.. Closer to 6K.. Those are the ones Scott was referring to, I believe.. Getting one of the max towing models takes patience and either special order or having dealer search through the data base for a long while to find one, at least in many parts of the country... In our area, dealers stock inventory for low MSRP and high fuel mileage, not for towing capacity...

Any mid-size SUV or pickup claiming to safely and reliably handle 7,500 pounds or more probably had sales brochures subject to final edits in marketing, not engineering..

John McG
My last two Suburbans, bought "off the lot" were;
2001 K1500 5.3l 4.10 rear end rated at 7800#
2004 K1500 5.3l 3.73 rear end rated at 7500#

Available as small V8's (I have never seen the 4.8l in a Suburban, although I have seen them in Mid size Tahoe's) but this is what the manual says;
C1500 4.8l 3.42 rear end is rated to tow 5700#
C1500 4.8l 3.73 rear end is rated to tow 6700#

As far as I know, a Suburban (and the now defunt Excursion) are the only Full sized SUVs. (Mid size would be Tahoe/Expedition.) Either of these vehicles would quite easily tow well over 7500# properly equipped. I am not aware of any other SUV's that could claim this.
There were several 2500 on the lot last week at my dealer-no special order, just sitting there.

If we cannot take the mfrs ratings as fact (those listed in the manuals, website, etc) then exactly what basis do we have when selecting TV's?

I have worked as an Engineer for a Tier supplier to the automotive industry for many years. I have no reason to believe they would publish or over state any of their ratings, regardless of the mfr (domestic or foriegn) this would leave them liable to any number of lawsuits. NHTSA, and other Gvt agencies, insurance companies, consumer groups, etc would never allow this practice. The regulations, standards, and specifications required by the automotive industry and Gvt,fill volumes of books (trust me I have a bookshelf full right in front of me that applies only to fasteners and coating used in the automotive industry). The tow ratings are real and verified (but also remember-the listed ratings are the MAXIMUM).
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Old 08-23-2006, 09:32 AM   #33
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Towing

Hello. New to the forum and just picked up my Classic 28 and thought I would chime in. Another very capable SUV is the Nissan Armada with tow package, I have a 2006 LE and when properly equipped can tow 10k/1000 TW. I currently tow a Fountain 32 Center Console and now the 28. I pulled the 28 twice now with ease and the 32 for the past year. These are both heavy rigs and the Armada pulls very strong. I believe this is one of the best gas powered truck engines made. There is some catch up needed from the Big 3 to compete with this one. I have owned a couple Burbs and many American SUV’s. None have come close to the comfort, quality and muscle of the Nissan. I would buy another American SUV in a minute if there was one that could compete with this truck. It won out easily when I test drove all the Ford and Chevy/GMC offerings. I even test drove the Durango that Dodge considers “Full Size”. The Dodge was ruled out before I even drove it. This one should be considered for those looking for a new tow vehicle.
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Old 08-23-2006, 10:20 AM   #34
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The Armada, the Tahoe, the Suburban 1500, and the Expitition are all half ton vehicles and not considered real trucks. Visit your Ford or Chevy dealer and take a walk around the lot and look at the stickers on the trucks and SUV's. You will note that any 1/2 ton chasis vehicle shows an EPA mileage rating. Now take a look at the 3/4 tons. There is NO estimated MPG shown. That is because the Federal Government classifies 1/2 ton trucks and SUV's as passenger cars requiring EPA mileage estimates. 3/4 ton chasis vehcles are classified as trucks and have no such requirement.

The differences are much greater than just the Government's classification. I will use the Suburban as my example as it is the only SUV that is available in both 1/2 and 3/4 ton versions. The frame is heavier on the 2500 to prevent flex under laod. The brakes are the heavy duty truck brakes which have better stopping power. A very important feature is the eight lug pattern wheels which are heavy duty and designed for use with load range E truck tires (something that I would not want to be without pulling an Airstream). The 2500 has both oil and transmission coolers. It also has rear leaf springs as opposed the the 1500's rear coil springs (designed to give it that passenger car ride). Even the 1500 Suburban is just a Car in Truck's clothing.
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Old 08-23-2006, 10:37 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moosetags
The Armada, the Tahoe, the Suburban 1500, and the Expitition are all half ton vehicles and not considered real trucks. Visit your Ford or Chevy dealer and take a walk around the lot and look at the stickers on the trucks and SUV's. You will note that any 1/2 ton chasis vehicle shows an EPA mileage rating. Now take a look at the 3/4 tons. There is NO estimated MPG shown. That is because the Federal Government classifies 1/2 ton trucks and SUV's as passenger cars requiring EPA mileage estimates. 3/4 ton chasis vehcles are classified as trucks and have no such requirement.

The differences are much greater than just the Government's classification. I will use the Suburban as my example as it is the only SUV that is available in both 1/2 and 3/4 ton versions. The frame is heavier on the 2500 to prevent flex under laod. The brakes are the heavy duty truck brakes which have better stopping power. A very important feature is the eight lug pattern wheels which are heavy duty and designed for use with load range E truck tires (something that I would not want to be without pulling an Airstream). The 2500 has both oil and transmission coolers. It also has rear leaf springs as opposed the the 1500's rear coil springs (designed to give it that passenger car ride). Even the 1500 Suburban is just a Car in Truck's clothing.
True-somewhat-actually the requirement for EPA estimates are based on a vehicles GVWR, not passenger capacity. Ex; Hummer
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Old 08-23-2006, 12:30 PM   #36
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Real Trucks

Quote:
Originally Posted by moosetags
The Armada, the Tahoe, the Suburban 1500, and the Expitition are all half ton vehicles and not considered real trucks. Visit your Ford or Chevy dealer and take a walk around the lot and look at the stickers on the trucks and SUV's. You will note that any 1/2 ton chasis vehicle shows an EPA mileage rating. Now take a look at the 3/4 tons. There is NO estimated MPG shown. That is because the Federal Government classifies 1/2 ton trucks and SUV's as passenger cars requiring EPA mileage estimates. 3/4 ton chasis vehcles are classified as trucks and have no such requirement.

The differences are much greater than just the Government's classification. I will use the Suburban as my example as it is the only SUV that is available in both 1/2 and 3/4 ton versions. The frame is heavier on the 2500 to prevent flex under laod. The brakes are the heavy duty truck brakes which have better stopping power. A very important feature is the eight lug pattern wheels which are heavy duty and designed for use with load range E truck tires (something that I would not want to be without pulling an Airstream). The 2500 has both oil and transmission coolers. It also has rear leaf springs as opposed the the 1500's rear coil springs (designed to give it that passenger car ride). Even the 1500 Suburban is just a Car in Truck's clothing.

I guess I didn’t realize I didn’t by a “Real” truck when I bought my 6000 lbs. vehicle. I’m not hauling a track hoe in the off time so it works just fine for my needs. I was also not aware my truck was a cross dresser and was really a car in trucks clothing.

Class IV Hitch 10K/1000lbs TW Tow Rating, Factory Oil Cooler, Factory Trans Cooler. Large Capacity Alternator and Battery. I guess I must have been blind to buy this “Car”
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Old 08-23-2006, 01:11 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan G.
I guess I didn’t realize I didn’t by a “Real” truck when I bought my 6000 lbs. vehicle. I’m not hauling a track hoe in the off time so it works just fine for my needs. I was also not aware my truck was a cross dresser and was really a car in trucks clothing.

Class IV Hitch 10K/1000lbs TW Tow Rating, Factory Oil Cooler, Factory Trans Cooler. Large Capacity Alternator and Battery. I guess I must have been blind to buy this “Car”
I think what Brian is saying is; the suspension, transmission, and many other components are the same as used in passenger cars (this is true). 1/2 ton vehicles are great for their intended purpose(s); they can tow lighter loads when properly equipped, can carry passengers in comfort, and can be relatively fuel efficient.
I have owned (and still own) several 1/2 ton trucks/SUVs. Untill you tow something with a HD rated truck, you don't know what you are missing .The transmission, chassis, suspension, and brakes are specificaly designed for this type of use. It takes more than a tranny cooler and big battery to make an HD truck.1/2 ton vehicles (as stated above) are a compromise. Towing with an HD vehicle is great. Riding around town unloaded is not so great (that is the compromise of HD trucks).
As I have said in another post; I had the opportunity to tow my Excella with my 1/2 ton Suburban, and now with a 3/4 ton truck.
Guess which one stays in the driveway when we are hitched up?
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Old 08-23-2006, 03:25 PM   #38
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Tv

Quote:
Originally Posted by BillTex
I think what Brian is saying is; the suspension, transmission, and many other components are the same as used in passenger cars (this is true). 1/2 ton vehicles are great for their intended purpose(s); they can tow lighter loads when properly equipped, can carry passengers in comfort, and can be relatively fuel efficient.
I have owned (and still own) several 1/2 ton trucks/SUVs. Untill you tow something with a HD rated truck, you don't know what you are missing .The transmission, chassis, suspension, and brakes are specificaly designed for this type of use. It takes more than a tranny cooler and big battery to make an HD truck.1/2 ton vehicles (as stated above) are a compromise. Towing with an HD vehicle is great. Riding around town unloaded is not so great (that is the compromise of HD trucks).
As I have said in another post; I had the opportunity to tow my Excella with my 1/2 ton Suburban, and now with a 3/4 ton truck.
Guess which one stays in the driveway when we are hitched up?

I think I got what Bill was trying to say, just trying to lighten things up. I’m certainly not trying to compare a ½ truck with an HD truck as I’ve owned/own and driven a few. My point is for the occasional pulling, within the TV limits, of a camper and or boat an F350 would not be a wise choice for most. As far as describing the differences of trannys, rear-ends, drive-shafts, yolks, pinions, and any other mechanical aspect of a vehicle, I’m very skilled and quite knowledgeable on the subject, but thanks for tutorial on some of the differences. Jeez, I thought my sons F150 shared the same trans as the F250/350. You know, being all Ford’s

I guess depending on what you pull/haul, an 8,000 lbs. boat or RV maybe a “lighter load” I own a 15 Ton truck on my farm that can tow more than any of my trucks but may look a bit stange at the shore with a trailer in tow My work trucks are just that, work trucks. You said it, not the best daily driver.

FYI:
Triton. V10 (30-valve) - 362HP@4750RPM and 457lb-ft of torque@3250RPM

Armada/Titan Endurance V8 305+ HP @approx. 4,900 rpm 375lb-ft of torque at 3200

07 both Titan and Armada will have over 325 HP.

The Nissan fairs pretty well for a "Car"

The Titan and possibly Armada will be available with a diesel soon. Both 3/4 Ton. I still buy American PU Trucks but may have to consider that Titan with a diesel.
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Old 08-23-2006, 07:59 PM   #39
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1977 31' Excella 500
Berkeley Springs , West Virginia
Join Date: Sep 2005
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Dan,

Offtopic, but tell us about your 32 foot Fountain. What engines do you have? Twin 500's? How fast will it go?

I've always been a big fan or Reggie Fountain's Go-Fast boats. I like cigarettes, and I don't even smoke

I understand both Fountain and Donzi make Sportfisherman center console boats that are basically cigarette hulls with different topsides.
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Old 08-24-2006, 07:24 AM   #40
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2005 28' Classic
Jacksonville , Florida
Join Date: Aug 2006
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Towing

Quote:
Originally Posted by JimGolden
Dan,

Offtopic, but tell us about your 32 foot Fountain. What engines do you have? Twin 500's? How fast will it go?

I've always been a big fan or Reggie Fountain's Go-Fast boats. I like cigarettes, and I don't even smoke

I understand both Fountain and Donzi make Sportfisherman center console boats that are basically cigarette hulls with different topsides.
Boat Details


Beam
9 ft 6 in
Max Draft
3 ft 4 in


Draft Board/Drive Up
2 ft
Dry Weight
5800 lb approx.


Hull Material
Fiberglass
Hull Shape
Deep Vee


Hull Warranty
6 years
Engine
Outboard


Fuel
Gas/Petrol
Horsepower (total)
550.00 hp


Fuel Capacity
300 gal
Water Capacity
20 gal




Had a 23 before the 32 that was faster with a Merc 275 and pushed 55. The 32 is a much nice boat offshore with dual 275 and close to a 600 mi range. Also when it gets real rough a much dryer ride than a 23. The spec above is basically what I have. With all options/gear the boat can weigh up to 8k. Great boat! Yes that is true it is basically a cigarette hall with a center console. I like Donzi and owned one many years ago, (of the pleasure boat variety) also a very nice boat. The fountain fit and finish is a step above. This is my second Fountain and I’m very happy with it.

Dan
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