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Old 09-17-2006, 12:58 PM   #21
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I buy diesel at CFN cardlock fuel stations. They are located in the rural areas where I like to travel in Oregon and Northern California. Welcome to CFN
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Old 09-17-2006, 04:55 PM   #22
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Diesel goes up hills good. If you are going to be in the mountains it doesn't get any better than a Duramax and an Allison. After all, once you go up you have to come down. With the Diesel and a few aftermarket additions you'll hardly need the brakes.
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Old 09-17-2006, 05:33 PM   #23
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I'm not sure what FLGator is driving, but my 3/4 ton diesel GMC Sierra can tow the same 12,000 pound trailer on the hitch that the 1 ton can. That's a thousand pounds of tongue weight with a weight-distributing hitch.
The payload capacity and 5th Wheel tongue weight are greater for the one-ton trucks, mainly because of the extra springs.
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Old 09-17-2006, 05:51 PM   #24
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There is also one school of thought that the 1-ton has a harder ride than the 3/4 ton because it does have stiffer springs and that this harder ride is rougher on the Airstream. This school of thought says that the hard ride can cause shear stresses on the rivets. I'm not sure, but it may make sense.

However, I have to disagree with FLGator that the ride of the 1-ton is the same as that of the 3/4-ton. The springs are different and the ride would be different. Also, I remember riding in a 1994 1-ton when it was almost new and it was significantly harder than my '05 3/4 ton of the same make.
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Old 09-17-2006, 08:11 PM   #25
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All this "1 ton, 3/4 ton" designation is bulldada. My 2000 GMC single rear wheel pickup was a 3500, and had 9200 GVW, and was a "1 ton". Now my 2003 2500HD has 9200 GVW and is considered by some to be a "3/4 ton". They have muddied the waters further by coming out with a 3500 "1 ton" single rear wheel pickup with 9900 GVW, as well as the 3500 "1 ton" duel rear wheel 11,500 GVW pickup.

Since my 2500HD has a payload capacity of over 2200 pounds, and a ton is 2000, I guess I can still call it a one ton.

I think a simpler method would be to just rate them by GVW.
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Old 09-17-2006, 09:09 PM   #26
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Dodge

I was at NAPA yesterday when a guy comes in. He wanted an oil filter for his DuraMax. It was $45. Man he ranted and raved. We joked with him; that he's got a $50K pickup and gripes about a $45 oil filter.

The one for my Cummins costs $12. Two years, no problems whatsoever.

You'll be happy with a turbodiesel. Probably any of the big three would be fine.

For me, it's MOPAR or NOCAR though.

Cheers!
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Old 09-18-2006, 06:06 AM   #27
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Good info on Dodge Diesels

I just sold my old Nissan Titan and picked up a 2004 3/4 ton Dodge Diesel. Just a great truck so far and it actually seems easier to drive than the "smaller" truck. Anyway, I find a lot of good info on these diesel Dodge's here:

http://dieseltruckresource.com/
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Old 09-18-2006, 09:08 AM   #28
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I agree with Pick. The waters at Chevy are muddy to me. There are a lot of options when it comes to power plant combinations that seem to yeild a lot of confusing results for me. The 1500HD has the same pay load, or very close, and the same towing limits as the 2500HD. Is that right? The 1500HD is considered a 1/2 ton and the 2500HD is a 3/4 ton. But when you mix and match the component transmissions, rear ends, and power plants, you can get more or less the same results in either model.

I know with Ford, you can mix rear ends and get differing results to a point, but it was just a little easier for me to understand what I was getting. I'm not saying Ford is better. I don't want to start a "my truck is better than your truck" arguement because I honestly believe when it comes to durability and rugedness, the big three American name plates are all three the top of the hill.

To me, the decision comes down to personal preference. Do you like the styling of one over the others? Do you like the most popular model in your part of the country? Do you like the interior of one better than the other two (really, that is what you are exposed to 99.9% of the time anyway)? Yes, there are subtle performance differences and subtle technical differences, but when it comes to trucks, they are built to take a beating in the commercial/industrial sector and if I buy one of the gussied up Lariat versions and drive it to work every day and once a month tow my 8,000# trailer 200 miles round trip, I am not going to put it anywhere near the conditions it was designed to handle.

Your best bet, IMHO, is to buy a 3/4 ton diesel crew cab, or whatever you chosen manufacturer calls it, so there is comfort for the family and be confident in the knowledge that you have plenty of power for the hills and mountains and power to spare on the flats. I tow at interstate speeds on the interstates and posted speeds off the interstates using the cruise and a/c with extra power when I need it on inclines and never have seen a change in any of my guages from what they run when my 30' Safari is not in tow. The only thing that changes is the turbo boost guage and the fuel guage. Both increase their movement.
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Old 09-18-2006, 02:03 PM   #29
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Quote:
I was at NAPA yesterday when a guy comes in. He wanted an oil filter for his DuraMax. It was $45.
You must be refering to the FUEL filter. They are overpriced. I have a Caterpillar aux. filter on mine, and it only costs $10.
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Old 09-18-2006, 03:20 PM   #30
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You may be right on that. I bet it was a fuel filter, actually. Now that I think about it, it had a hole in the bottom. Must have been. My friend is the manager of the store and he used to own a Cummins and was ribbing the guy that the equivalent filter for it was like $12 also. My mistake...I have paid about $12 for my oil filters though.

This fuel filter for the Dura Max was a monster of a thing. Probably 10" deep and 5" in diameter easily. The guy said the one for his Peterbilt cost like $10 and he couldn't understand why this one for the "little" Chevy was so high.

This is my first diesel, but so far, I've been exremely pleased with it. the worst thing is having to wear a "grime mitt" every time I fill it up. If I don't, my hands stink for a day afterward
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Old 09-18-2006, 06:47 PM   #31
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I just bought a little 6 cylinder straight shift to pull my 34'

Dodge Cummins 6 speed 4x4. Wish I had done it before the trip to international
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Old 09-18-2006, 07:18 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by DEO
Ok I am really beginning to start my search seriously now. I test drove the 2500 with the Cumins Diesel and loved it. Now how about 2500 vs 3500? 2006 vs 2007? any other helpful advice? Thanks the information provided so far has been excellent...
We have a 2005 34 w/SO, which definitely has a heavier tongue weight than our 1999 34 - no slide out (I don't care what the spec sheets say). As a result, I found that our Excursion (like a 250) sagged in the rear end. I added rear suspension "air bags" that beefs up the suspension when towing (just add air), essentially giving it a more "350" feel.

When we tow, I add air to the air bags (to about 25 lbs), and the Excursion rides level - tows like a champ. When we get back home, I let the air out to about 10 lbs, and then the Excursion has a much softer and nicer ride.

Just a thought as you determine 2500/3500. If Dodge is like Ford, the only difference will be an additional spring in the rear end. If the 3500 rides to your satisfaction when not towing, I would probably steer you in that direction.
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Old 09-18-2006, 07:25 PM   #33
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I might add that our Excursion has a 45 gallon tank and we can go 500+ miles on a tank - towing. Finding diesel is easy, and refueling diesel at truck stops is FAR easier than trying to pull a 34 into a regular gas station to fill up gas. Another reason to consider diesel.
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Old 09-19-2006, 12:36 PM   #34
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Finding diesel is easy, and refueling diesel at truck stops is FAR easier than trying to pull a 34 into a regular gas station to fill up gas. Another reason to consider diesel.
I've had very little trouble finding diesel when traveling. I am actually surprised how many Pilot/Flying J's/etc. there are along the interstates. I also am surprised how many stations have diesel.

I have fueled at truck stops, gas stations, and "travel centers" and haven't had too much trouble at gas stations. Of course truck stops and travel centers are easier to manuver a combined length of 50' around and up to the pumps, but I usually have been able to get to the diesel pumps (usually on the outside of the islands anyway) without blocking everybody's access to the rest of the pumps.
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Old 09-25-2006, 05:44 AM   #35
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Almost there

Looks like I may have found the truck I am going to buy. Going to test drive it today if all goes well....

Looks like a 2007 Sierra 2500hd with the diesel engine and the SLT package...

Just a few more questions.
Spray in bedliner vs drop in ?

If a spray in bedliner then which manufacturer?
Reflex vs. Line-X vs. Rhino

Caps .. Leer vs A.R.E brand... Does anyone have any experience with A.R.E. ? I have a Leer now and have had some problems with it.
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Old 09-25-2006, 06:46 AM   #36
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Spray in bedliner vs drop in ?
not a big fan of either. i use a heavy duty rubber bed mat. found at our local farm and fleet store. about 50 bucks.

easily removed for cleaning, non skid, and heavy enough it will not lift or blow out when traveling.

i looked into spray in liners and just could not bring myself to letting some guy take a grinder to the bed of my new truck!

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Old 09-25-2006, 08:10 AM   #37
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I am really unfamiliar with the spray on bed liners. They just don't appeal to me. The ones that I have seen are rough and would scratch anything painted that you haul. On the other hand, the big draw is that things don't slide around, but inevidably, some things will and they will get scratched if they do.

There are pros and cons to both.

The positive for drop ins for me is that they flex and absorb the shock of something banging into them so they give some protection against dents if your load rolls around, such as a riding mower or like my tiller did. I don't know if the impact was transferred to the bed wall behind, but I don't see dents after carrying these items and they rolled around. The big draw back is that things slide around unless you take a lot of effort to secure them with tie-downs in all directions.

I have had a Dura-liner in my previous truck and a Ford branded liner in my current truck. I am satified with both.
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Old 09-25-2006, 08:27 AM   #38
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Go spray-in

I have used spray-in liners in my last 4 trucks and I would have nothing else. I have experienced no problems with anything getting scratched by the liners; in fact, in the one truck that was sprayed before I purchased, the liner was too slippery and things moved around. I have a local installer who does a great job of preparation and put on an even coating in the other 3 trucks.

Spray-in liners also tend to quiet the truck.

I tote a lot of building material, stone, and things like riding mowers and I have never had any problem with dents in the bed.

In the truck I had years ago with a drop-in liner, the bed really rusted badly because of grit getting under the liner.
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Old 09-25-2006, 09:19 AM   #39
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Spray in

I have had better than excellant service with a spray in liner. I have not had the issue with scratching that another poster had.

Remember, the liner color will fade as its exposed to sunlight over time.
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Old 09-25-2006, 11:00 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goin camping
Remember, the liner color will fade as its exposed to sunlight over time.
I presume you mean spray on liner because my F-150 is 11 years old and has the Duraliner from new and it hasn't faded at all. My F-250 is one year old and hasn't shown any sign of fading either.
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