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Old 09-20-2007, 08:36 AM   #21
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1989 25' Excella
By The Bay , Rhode Island
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With a crew cab truck you can just use 2 Thule load bars...no extensions needed. My 17' canoe and 16' kayaks only reach about 1/2 way over the bed. The rest is hanging over the hood. I like this as I can keep an eye on them while driving. This setup also allows for good head room while standing in the bed. I carry 2 boats on the roof, 3 bikes in the bed along with firewood, etc. If you have a long enough cab there is no need for the extension. Seems to me this would juts get in the way. Thule racks are also easily removable, truck racks (like the Trac-Rak system) are not really intended for easy on/off. I wanted something I can remove in the winter or anytime. Allows me to visit the car wash occasionaly! Also Thule allows for lots of different fixtures...

Here's a pic

Bill
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Old 09-20-2007, 09:15 AM   #22
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Colorado Springs , Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HowieE
I was quite concerned about my first trip with my kayak in that the kayak was mounted well off center on a Thule Hulavator rack. The picture shows what looks like good clearance but when turning to the right I have less than 3 ins. clearance.

Additional pics noted in my signature.
That is one pretty kayak! Great job, I like the inlay. It would not look good stuck through the front of the A/S.
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Old 09-20-2007, 09:43 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davydd
How is that Hullavator rack working? I have been curious about it.
Thanks for the comments.
The Hulavator is Great. The kayak weighs 60 lbs. and my wife and I can load it at chect high with no trouble. It uses gas assisted shocks as a lift aid.
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Old 09-20-2007, 01:06 PM   #24
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We carry 2 10' Perception Prodigy 10 rec kayaks on the van using Thule Hydro Slide and Set to Go saddles mounted to standard our ladder racks. I had to use longer carrage bolts top get the Thule parts to fit the 2x2.5 square tubes, but it works like a champ. I carry a small 3 step ladder to make the tie-down process a bit easier. One mod I made was to add some 5/16" eye bolts to the racks for bow/stern tie downs. Instead of using the bow and stern toggles, I installed some small fairleads on the bow and stern of the boats for the tie down lines.
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Old 09-20-2007, 10:32 PM   #25
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Well - on the burb I have thule bars, just carry the ocean 2 tandem upside down. The CLC 14 that I built is carried right side uo on a custom rack I also built.
I load both on the burb with about a foot of overhang aft.
What I did do for the front bow tie down was to cut off about 6 inches of my tie down webbing and doubled it over. This is fastened under the hood using an existing bolt that attaches the radiator mount to the inner fender well. So when it's not in use it rides under the hood, when I need it just open the hood and put the webbing between the fender and hood crack. Then attach the bow painter.
Getting the tandem loaded is another story, at 60 lbs the top of the burb is almost as tall as the empire building- but it unloads fast.
pics of the CLC 14 are on the "need some paint advise" thread.
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Old 09-20-2007, 11:39 PM   #26
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Nice setup!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Old_Town


Last weekend was the maiden voyage with my 17' canoe. I was a little concerned but it worked perfectly. Even in sharp turns backing into the campsite, the canoe never got close to the nose of the AS.
Old Town,

Here's our TV with a single 12' Pungo Kayak mounted on the OEM luggage rack. It rode well thru the strong winds in the Columbia Gorge. Just a couple of nylon straps to cinch it down. I'm sure you get just as severe winds in your country as well. My next project is to buy a tandem kayak, which will be in the 16-18' range and mount it on the roof also. We'll have to have a fore and aft nylon rope. We have the same Equalizer set-up as well.
BTW...... I think you're supposed to cross your chains from the AS to the TV....it doesn't appear that you've done that in your photo. Supposedly it's agin the law on the west coast.....don't know about your area.
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Old 09-22-2007, 10:15 AM   #27
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2007 20' Safari
Wallingford , Vermont
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17 ft canoe and Toyota 4runner?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Happycampers
Hello Ty, We have a swivel T-bar on the front of our truck, it makes it easy for one person to load and unload, draw back is you can only carry one canoe. We now have a 17 ft. Old Town Penaboscot, really like that canoe.


Marvin
Are these bars made just for trucks or would it be possible to use one on our 4runner? Poodlenut
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Old 09-22-2007, 11:27 PM   #28
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Potrero , California
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Long kayaks too

Poodlenut,
Your 4Runner needs a front receiver for most T Bars. You should be able to get something to work.
We use a Yakima system to carry boats/bikes/basket with a range of options.
Bob 'n Nanc~
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Old 09-24-2007, 04:30 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paulaandjane
Are these bars made just for trucks or would it be possible to use one on our 4runner? Poodlenut

They will work on any truck with a front hitch, mine is made by Fulton Co. They come set up for a 1" tube but I changed mine to a 2" to fit the receiver. I just seen 2 of them sell on e-bay for around 50.00. I think you can get a front receiver for a 4runner, if not you can get someone to weld a receiver tube on the front of it.

Marivn
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Old 09-24-2007, 07:12 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Happycampers
They will work on any truck with a front hitch, mine is made by Fulton Co. They come set up for a 1" tube but I changed mine to a 2" to fit the receiver. I just seen 2 of them sell on e-bay for around 50.00. I think you can get a front receiver for a 4runner, if not you can get someone to weld a receiver tube on the front of it.

Marivn

Just keep in mind that you will likely need to add straps/ropes/etc to help stabilize the bar. The receiver mounted T-mounts often have a bit of play in them.

Personally I prefer either the bed or roof mounted racks.

On my current truck I use a combination of Yakima bars mounted on the shell and a bar across the cab. With this combo we are able to carry our three sea kayaks (16.5', 18' & 22.5') while still pullling the Airstream.
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Old 09-24-2007, 07:45 AM   #31
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Cool thread

Here's our rig... includes bikes.
This setup (a Yakima roof rack) allows us to open the tonneau cover by releasing the back rope.

We've put about 5000 miles on this setup so far... no problems.
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Old 10-03-2007, 02:47 PM   #32
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2005 25' Safari
North East , Texas
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Cedar Stripper

Quote:
Originally Posted by Royce
Congrats on the first trip, karma on the way. Here is a shot of what was a fun combination. We don't own the Saturn anymore but Osena is still enjoyed.
Royce,
Fine boat, I have always wanted a stripper. I paddled a 14' solo stripper about a year ago it was a great experience. It paddled like a leaf. Wood boats are just so much more aesthetic than the plastic boats I own.

Regards,
Ty
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Old 10-05-2007, 07:02 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qjktx
Just keep in mind that you will likely need to add straps/ropes/etc to help stabilize the bar. The receiver mounted T-mounts often have a bit of play in them.

Personally I prefer either the bed or roof mounted racks.

On my current truck I use a combination of Yakima bars mounted on the shell and a bar across the cab. With this combo we are able to carry our three sea kayaks (16.5', 18' & 22.5') while still pullling the Airstream.

Thanks for calling my attention to this. I sometimes get in a hurry and I only had the one pic at the time to post. Anyone wanting to use a T bar should get a J pin anti rattle from Draw Tite hitches, they work great and you can lock them. When I put mine on it still moved a little because the vertical post is adjustable and bolted together so I welded a peice of pencil steel on the bottom of the horizontal bar and use ratchet straps, I have never had a canoe move carrying it this way.
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Old 10-10-2007, 06:25 PM   #34
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1991 34' Excella
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Our 'canoe' is a jon boat! Cost? I traded a 12 pack for the rack...
I do pull off the 15hp outboard before sliding it up the Aluminum ramp and onto the rack.
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Old 10-10-2007, 06:51 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV
Our 'canoe' is a jon boat! Cost? I traded a 12 pack for the rack...
I do pull off the 15hp outboard before sliding it up the Aluminum ramp and onto the rack.
Wow! That is a great deal on a very useful water craft. I would send Karma but it is apparent you don't need any after that deal.
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Old 10-10-2007, 07:18 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Royce
Wow! That is a great deal on a very useful water craft. I would send Karma but it is apparent you don't need any after that deal.
Thanks! BTW - cool wood work, I'll try to post some photos of a wooden strip built kayak I co-built.
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Old 10-10-2007, 08:12 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV
Thanks! BTW - cool wood work, I'll try to post some photos of a wooden strip built kayak I co-built.
Please do so. Always like to see other wooden water craft. Logs lashed together or ChrisCraft doesn't matter it is all interesting.
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Old 10-10-2007, 08:22 PM   #38
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Thumbs up Great thread

We originally had the kayak/bikes set up on the cab of our Dodge 2500 with the Yakima Q towers and Q clips but it failed after a year--talk about a hairy ride getting off I-75 and onto back roads til we could figure it out... Solution we put kayaks/bikes on the fiberglass cap on the truck, much better as the tracks and towers hold better. Yakima was very cool about the problem and solution. We still like Yakima.

I would love to see wood kayaks, some folks in our local kayak club make them from kits, they are sweet!!
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Old 12-17-2007, 08:34 PM   #39
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Here is a shot of my Mad River Explorer RX 16. It really does fit well. I did not use foam blocks for frontal support. I drove for over 600 miles, it worked well.

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Old 12-17-2007, 09:57 PM   #40
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Since we're sharing, here's a picture of our set-up. It's a '96 Suburban, '69 Globetrotter, Old Town Discovery 174 and an Ocean Kayak something or other . . .

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The racks are Yakima and we use two tie downs on the bow of the canoe, one on the bow of the kayak and one each on the stern as well as straps across each and through the holes on the kayak. We've had them slip side ways once in some heavy cross winds that scored the coating off the cross bars where they clamp down to attach. (That was scary.)

Since our kids are getting older (and not camping with us as much) and we are getting older (and it's harder to lift that canoe over our heads to get it onto the Suburban), it's real tempting trade in the Old Town to get a pair of light weight singles.

Any recommendations?

Virginia
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