F250 vs F350

[kb0zke]

We're getting closer (we hope) to getting an Airstream, and that means that we will have to get a truck. We're looking at early 2000's 30-34' Airstream travel trailers, no slides, so that basically means we're looking at coaches with GVWR of about 10,000 pounds. That would make the tongue weight around 1000 pounds or maybe somewhat more. I understand that Airstream says max tongue weight is 1000 pounds, but some people have reported higher numbers.


We're looking at 2012-2015 F250 or F350 trucks. I don't want to get into Chevy, Dodge, GMC, Toyota, or whatever else. I'm just focusing on those two trucks. The truck will be either an extended cab or crew cab, whichever we find. From what I've seen so far, it will most likely be diesel (recent search found 34 diesel trucks, 1 gas truck) and will have the 8' bed with a topper. We will have ~1500 pounds of stuff in the bed.


I've gotten conflicting reports from Ford owners and mechanics. Some say the F250 will be just fine. Others say the F350 (SRW) will actually ride better, both with and without the Airstream. One gentleman suggested that an F250 can be fitted with aftermarket airbags as a DIY project.



I'd like to hear from those of you who have or have had one of these trucks as a tow vehicle. What do you think? I'd really like to cut down the stuff in the bed, but losing weight anywhere is difficult.

[rgg123]

I have a 2016 30 foot Classic - weighs 10k pounds fully loaded like yours. I originally bought an F-250 6.7L gasser and found out that it will not adequately do the job up or down any mountains. You will also have challenges merging onto expressway traffic. If all you are doing is flat land travel then you can get away with it. I recently moved up to an F-250 6.7L diesel - WOW! No comparison as it moves with ease no matter the terrain. Can't speak to an F-350 but unless it has 800 ft lbs of torque you will have challenges going up - and since it does not have a engine brake you will have some white knuckle moments going down the mountains. Originally I insisted that I did not need a diesel but anyone pulling over 28 feet of Airstream will need one to ensure a safe and comfortable ride. Suggest you do several calculations on the site at www.changingears.com - there are about 7 calculations you need to do and pass all is them (with 20% safety margin built in) to be safe and comfortable. The F250 gasser was right at the limit and it showed. This is a very contentious discussion on the Airforums as you will find (I expect MANY to dispute what I write here) - but to each his own. I prefer to be safe. Bet of luck.

[majorairhead]

I'm pulling our 30 foot Serenity with a '17 F250 crew cab, 4x4, 6.2 V8, and it's fine.

It has 3,111 pounds cargo capacity

[Countryboy59]

I pulled a 27’ with an F350 gas truck with the 385 hp V8. True, it wasn’t a 30’ but the F350 did the job very well. The F350 payload was almost 4000lbs. It has a much different sound and feel under load than a diesel. If you choose this engine just turn up the radio and make sure none of the warning lights come on lol.

Replaced the F350 with a 2500 Dodge Diesel. The payload of the Dodge is only 2200 lbs but it also handles the Airstream like a boss. I’d say the switch from gas to diesel was more significant than the reduced payload of the 2500 if all you’re pulling is an Airstream.

Like you, I had intended to stay with Ford and switch to a Diesel engine. The mechanic in the family convinced me to go with the Cummins as there are fewer problems with them. If you’re buying new or under warranty none of that will matter. The Ford I traded in sold almost immediately to a couple from California who are using it to tow a good sized TT. It was a win win.

Oh by the way, I just did the oil and fuel filters in the Dodge myself. Parts and synthetic oil was about $300. Oil change in my Ford was under $100. Not a big deal for me since I paid cash for it and don’t commute in my truck but friends who have $800 truck payments are sometimes caught by surprise.

[brick1]

Check the payload on whatever you buy. My option loaded 2018 F250 only has 2100 lb payload. If you put 1500 lbs in the bed, you can see the issue.
And get the diesel.
brick

[Dragline]

F-350 DRW Diesel

[DBinSD]

Having had Both F250 and F350 diesels and now my 2nd Ram 2500 diesel.

I would go with a Ram 3500 (single rear wheel) Crew, short bed for my next rig.

[Sphere Guy]

We have a 2016 F350 SRW Platinum with Snug Lid topper 8ft bed with the Power Stroke. It pulls our 2016 Classic with a ProPride with ease. Up and down is a piece of cake. We carry about 600 lbs of stuff all the time in the bed. Our payload is 3100 lbs. We get 19.5 MPG not pulling and 13 MPG or so towing.

Definetly get the diesel. Yes it’s more $$ in maintenance but pays off in over all longevity. Ford now makes the Limited version which includes everything under the sun. This truck just goes and goes, no matter what it’s got behind it. It doesn’t turn too sharp though. It just idles at 1800 RPM at 75 MPH. Yes, in Texas we can do 75 even 85 in some areas. Though we tow max at 65. We’re in no rush.

Tongue weights are spec’d, just that. We are more like 1300 lbs. the F350 does squat but not enough to hit the helper spring. Adjust your weight distribution and you’re good.

We get 375 mi per tank towing which is way more than needed until we need a break.

Get the heavy duty alternator or even dual alternators if ordering. You can fit 4 aftermarket thingies with the UpFitter switches. Dash cam, TPMS, and rear Cameras or external lights or bars. You will need a rear camera on the topper to replace the rearview mirror with the topper on.

The Crew cab is the way to go. Plenty of room for passengers or pets and other stuff.

Sphere

[sbowman]

F350 SRW. I was a Ford guy for 40 years.


Best regards and safe travels.........

[uncle_bob]

Hi

Once you get into the "new" trucks (aluminum body) there really isn't any difference between the top of the F250 line and the bottom of the F350. Price wise, payload wise, ride wise, they are essentially the same truck. The F350 goes on up in payload from the start of the line. The F250 *can* have a much smaller payload depending on which options you order. At the bottom end of the line, the same overlap occurs. The "high end" F150 is same / heavier payload than the bottom end F250.

Bottom line: The days of buying a truck simply by the number on the badge are long gone. You very much need to look at all the grubby details on any truck you buy. You can indeed find a "250" (and maybe a 350) that is not up to towing a 34' AS. There are a lot of numbers to look at and a very confusing list of options that drive this or that.

The door post sticker is your friend in this case .... My F-250 comes in just below 3,000 LB payload (whatever that means ...). Again - there are a lot of numbers to check and payload is only one of many.

In some states, putting the 350 badge on the truck puts you into a different category when you register it .....

Bob

[gypsydad]

My 2017 F250 6.7L Diesel 4x4 King Ranch pulls my 28' FC Twin just fine, up/down the Rockies and on flat land. I now have 45K miles in 18 months; I average 15-16mpg around town, and 13+mpg towing typically, at 60-65mph, running around 1500rpms....a pleasure to drive when towing or empty. With 925lbs of torque this one gets the job done with no hesitation! The automatic engine brake when engaged with your cruise control in tow/haul mode, with lane change control and distance control, makes pulling your trailer stress free..7 cameras help negotiate parking also. I see lots of folks suggesting going up to the F350 with same engine for about the same price. If you need that kind of extra payload, not a bad way to go. Ride is supposed to be similar in both rigs. I have 2200lbs of payload in my F250 which works well for our needs; 95lb generator, propane bottle, bbq, fire wood, camp gear in back, kayaks from time to time, and with 1100lbs of tongue weight on the 28' AS. I think you will be happy with either one, if you get the 6.7L Diesel. Dealer I mentioned in earlier post, got the gas version of his King Ranch F250 for pulling his 30' SOB and regrets not getting the diesel. I will add, if you get one that is not "loaded" consider the retractable running boards and the tailgate step...really handy for the wife.
Let me know if you have any other questions on this..glad to help.

[uncle_bob]

Hi

I have absolutely no complaints at all pulling a 30' Classic with a gas engine 2017 F-250. Zero issues up and down hills and mountains. Zero issues cursing on the flat.

Bob

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by uncle_bob

Hi

I have absolutely no complaints at all pulling a 30' Classic with a gas engine 2017 F-250. Zero issues up and down hills and mountains. Zero issues cursing on the flat.

Bob

UB; are you "cursing on the flat" cause you didn't get the 6.7L diesel? (just kidding....) Think you meant cruising on the flat??

[uncle_bob]

Originally Posted by gypsydad

UB; are you "cursing on the flat" cause you didn't get the 6.7L diesel? (just kidding....) Think you meant cruising on the flat??

Hi

Typos are so much fun .....

Of course about half way across Kansas ... the two can get a bit intermingled.

Bob

[Moflash]

I would recommend that you get F350 single rear wheel .You will be glad that u did.Choose the 11,000 lb Gvw package.I have had a 2012,2015 and a 2017.We pull a 28ft International and I can tell u from experience that this is the ultimate tow vehicle for larger trailers.The F250 and the F350 tide the same.Buy the latest model that fits your budget as a lot of changes were made over the years mentioned.

[slowmover]

A TW of 1,000-1,200 lbs is the province of cars, minivans and SUVs. But it would require understanding how a WD hitch works.

A 34’ was designed with an axle setback and distribution so that TW is around 10%.

Let’s call it 1,000-lbs though it may be lower. After WDH tensioning, the weight on the Drive Axle will be down to around 500-lbs or less. The balance will be on the Steer & Trailer Axles.

The load in the bed of the truck — the items which by law or safety CANNOT go in the passenger compartment of TT or TV — is the ONLY reason to have a pickup given its high propensity for rollover. Lower performance & higher operating expense are only the start.

A van is otherwise a far better solution.

Separate and weigh that bed load.

The important difference in pickups isn’t weight carrying capacity (axle limit), but whether a candidate brand/model is equipped with independent front suspension plus rack & pinion steering. 2WD ALWAYS preferable for towing.

Vehicle spec isn’t about advertising copy. It’s looking to what are regarded as legal limits (axle/wheel/tire) and accurate numbers to use against that.

It’s pretty damned funny to hear someone talk about they’re careful with money and won’t even take part of a Saturday to get the bed load weight isolated. I’m getting my leg pulled, right? It’s an RV forum constant.

There’s such a thing as “too much truck”. It’s higher injury/death risk when less capable suspension, steering & braking abilities are the result.

“Payload” and “Towing Capacity” are for the real dummies. Those are (at best), tertiary. And are never primary.

Get the Pro-Pride hitch. And assemble everything necessary for TUSON antilock trailer disc brakes. Plus their brake controller & electronic anti-sway.

The hitch rigging matters. Spring capacity is like paint color. Not important. It will matter very little once the bed load is a known value.

How you will pack the truck bed means far more. On or ahead of the rear axle.

And a custom hitch insert with ZERO extension past the receiver. These are what should occupy the change from Moho to TT.

No, there is no advantage to one ton versus 3/4 ton. Especially if a IFS, rack steered 1/2 ton can do it. Advantage one direction and disadvantage the other.

Start with the crap you’re carrying around. Maybe there’ll be changes or not. Be best if there were. After that is how you’ll load the bed. Decide now. Boxes, sliding rack, etc.

Rent a UHaul van and get it weighed loaded and empty. Hire a couple of guys through them as helpers. Get the CAT Scale app.

You’ve been around on this for years. Are we up to a couple of thousand days?

You can wallow around in confirmation bias. By now you might have mastered the material that mattered. Still time. Fred Puhn on Vehicle Dynamics. Hucho on Aerodynamics. The guys who designed the trailer did so for REASON, not emotion.

And Andrew Thomson’s CAN AM RV website. His published articles in RV LIFESYLE. Summation of fifty-years experience and 10,000 trailer rigs set-up. Consultant to SAE and Airstream.

Or you can stay with the mouth-breathers lucky to parse a common English sentence. Found on every RV and pickup forum. Disposable Americans. Proud of it apparently. “Born to Lose” their apt tattoo. They also tow Airstreams.

Get the numbers.
.
.

[kb0zke]

Good advice, slowmover. Yes, we need to go through all the stuff in the basement again. Seems like each time I do I find several things that aren't needed anymore. Yes, I should actually weigh the stuff there. It may well weigh less than I think, but by the time I drag it all out, clean the bay, and put it all back it seems like it weighs 4-5000 pounds. I do know that a pickup cap weighs about 200 pounds.


I do plan on putting a drawer arrangement into the bed of the truck so that I can more easily get to the stuff at the front of the bed. That will add a bit it weight, but well worth it. That will also help balance the load some.


I'll have to look into a van again. The biggest argument against one was that the whole space has to be heated or cooled. Maybe I can make up some sort of divider to give me a people area up front and a cargo area in the back. I'm guessing that a van wouldn't use any more fuel than a pickup, or at least not enough difference to really notice.

[Tsunami-v2]

If getting the 3/4 or 1 ton F-series, get the FX4 package. It will definitely give you a softer ride when not pulling your AS. The shocks are for Off-road which are softer. The FX4 package does not effect payload or towing capacity. To balance the load I use an Equalizer weight distribution setup attached to a Gen-Y torsion flex drop hitch. Works very well. Smoother towing.

[CRH]

Originally Posted by Tsunami-v2

If getting the 3/4 or 1 ton F-series, get the FX4 package. It will definitely give you a softer ride when not pulling your AS. 2.

Maybe. Maybe not. You can put the FX4 package on a truck that is also set up with snow plow prep or camper/snowplow prep.

I know snow plow and camper prep packages cause a ride disclaimer to pop up when you are ordering a SD. I believe the FX4 does as well.

[SCOTTinNJ]

With what you are proposing skip the 250 and go right to the 350. Particularly if you are getting diesel. Not even a question.*


* Yes, I understand that options can bring these close together. But generally speaking when buying used you'll be safer just looking at 350s.