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Old 07-24-2013, 03:41 PM   #41
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Wink

What a bunch of hooie....mines bigger and better than yours anyway.

Calm down and carry on.

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Old 07-24-2013, 03:53 PM   #42
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Duramax as a Tow Vehicle

To join others who have replied,
I also have the Duramax and I tow our 25' Eddie Bauer with it. Along with the exhaust brake, this combination worked great going out to the Grand Canyon recently. The truck stayed mostly in 6th gear and was fantastic when going up and down steep grades. I did add the Airsafe hitch just for peace of mind, and I do believe the trailer appreciated it.
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Old 07-24-2013, 04:04 PM   #43
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I'm on my second Silverado 2500 HD crewcab with Duramax.
This one a 2007 has the 6-speed Allison transmission. (The first one was a 2005 with 5-speed tranny.) The Duramax/Allison combination is unbelievable for towing safely and efficiently.
I had had four tow vehicles (including a 1995 Dodge Ram 2500 with Cummins turbo diesel) before buying the 2005 Chevy Silverado new in April 2005 for an Airstream Rally on the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. The towing experience was delightful.
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Old 07-24-2013, 04:58 PM   #44
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I tow with a Tundra. We have 5 Duramax diesels at work. I have towed with these extensively and in the mountains of North Carolina. The diesels do have more bottom end torque, but honestly, having towed with both there honestly isn't a nickle's worth of difference. Please hear me out before you go pay 45-60k for a truck and get disappointed. The Duramax is a great truck, but not great enough for me to go into debt for. If you are independently wealthy and money is no object and you are paying cash anyway...go ahead and get a Duramax. They are restyled for 2014. That may not matter. It wouldn't matter to me. I kinda like the 2013 body style better.
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Old 07-24-2013, 05:16 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFScheck View Post
Can't let such a blanket statement go without a response in fear of some folks becoming misinformed...

Disc brakes on the trailer do not stop faster than drums on the trailerr.

Then why do we have them on four corners of our tow vehicles? They are better in all respects, with no exceptions. As one who has decades of time/experience in making drums work their best on cars, trucks and trailers there is no comparison. Making drums their best is constant upkeep and they are worthless in rain, on gravel and are constantly out of adjustment. Controls over disc is matter of fine-tuning. Threads to that very effect around here. Drums set that very day might bring the combined rig rig down hard and fast, I've done it. But not the next. Discs, no problem once installed and minimal tuning done once.

Diesel braking going downhill save both TV brakes and trailers brakes while minimizing the potential of drums overheating thus fading before discs (advantage disc have over brakes).

Any vehicle, properly-driven, 1973 or 2013 can do the same. Given discs or drums. No one would choose drums on the TV when it is a choice. The only reason they remain on the TT is that THOR has no intention of improving what really matters . . sorry to those who thought a bare aluminum interior matters or Corian countertops.


As applied to Airstreams - electric over Hydraylic often have a "lag" or pause as compared to electric over electric.

Yes, and it can be minimized if not eliminated. See thread by GCinSC on this for but one [very good] example.


From someone who has experience with the above configurations and settings....
And from someone else who apparently has more. Readers are invited to do their own explorations of the topic. Trailer brakes stop the trailer. Tow vehicle brakes stop that vehicle. If it is necessary to use the TV to stop the TT then the TV is not at fault. Now, how well can your TT stop the combined rig without the use of TV brakes . . a European test, by the way, necessary for certification in combined rigs of this type. I recommend one tries it at 15-mph. Do it from 60-mph if you already have a new set of drums/shoes on hand. Maybe bearings/seals as well. But wait for tomorrrow to cool it off.

The OP can or will buy a bigger vehicle. He can also equip his TT with discs and upgrade his hitch beyond just setting it up on a weight scale to maximize current TV performance. Those items, hitch and TT discs, stay with the TT no matter what TV is eventually chosen if that route is attractive. It is certainly cheaper in the short run, and highly valuable over the long run.

There is more to it than just buying a bigger truck as that rarely solves the problem past increased TV payload requirement. Big as the problem of money may be, there is a downside that is more than just money in increasing TV size without commensurate performance changes.

.
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Old 07-24-2013, 06:09 PM   #46
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Concur with slowmover. I love the disc brakes on my Airstream.
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Old 07-24-2013, 08:02 PM   #47
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As price comparison between 5.7 tundra and GM Duramax came up in this discussion I took a look at both vehicles on traderonline.com on a nation wide search. I remembered paying $31000 for my new Duramax 2007 Sierra Classic W/T August of 07 which included a $5000 end of year discount. Now, there are many well equipped Duramax $38K-40k, about 10K below MSRP. I noticed many 5.7 tundra close to or equal in price to 2013 Duramax. Just FYI
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Old 07-24-2013, 08:26 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pat Conway View Post
As price comparison between 5.7 tundra and GM Duramax came up in this discussion I took a look at both vehicles on traderonline.com on a nation wide search. I remembered paying $31000 for my new Duramax 2007 Sierra Classic W/T August of 07 which included a $5000 end of year discount. Now, there are many well equipped Duramax $38K-40k, about 10K below MSRP. I noticed many 5.7 tundra close to or equal in price to 2013 Duramax. Just FYI
But the o.p. already owns the Tundra.

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Old 07-25-2013, 04:45 AM   #49
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Original sticker price for our Duramax- 54k
Original sticker price for my Tundra- 42k
Original purchase price for Duramax- 40k
Original purchase price for Tundra- 30k
Both have too small of a fuel tank.
Both are similarly equipped- except the Duramax is 4x4.
I won't trade simply because I already own a Tundra with 27,000 miles.
Even if they allow me 25k on a 40k truck I owe 15k which would have to be financed.
If I were a millionaire or if i earned 200k per year I might view things differently.
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Old 07-25-2013, 05:32 AM   #50
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Slowmover - I highly doubt you have more experience than I on this subject in regards to both my towing arena and actual experience with both platforms and my on track endeavors to include vintage car racing but I also just don't feel like arguing the fact.

How often I am reminded why 2Airishuman has left the forum.

Later
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Old 07-25-2013, 07:26 AM   #51
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OK, for the record... Towing 25k gas at 7 mpg = @ $12,500... Towing 25k Duramax at 17 mpg = @ $5,500... In and around 50k gas at 14.5 mpg = 12,500... 50k Duramax at 18.7 mpg = @ $9000... Total for mixed driving 75k gas = @ $25,000 Duramax = @ $15,000... Saving $10k in first 75k miles using gas at 3.559 per gallon and diesel at 3.759 per gallon.... Duramax/Allison $8k option payback in first 70,000 miles.... gas engine/transmission life likely 150k before major work, less if doing heavy towing... Duramax likely 250k+.... This what I based my decision on fuel and maintenance savings, along with exhaust brake saving truck brake wear, integrated trailer brake controller, class V 2 ” hitch receiver, exceptional smooth and quiet ride and increased safe towing capacity. Everyone has their own criteria; this truck meets and exceeds mine….
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Old 07-25-2013, 07:51 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m.hony View Post
I tow with a Tundra. We have 5 Duramax diesels at work. I have towed with these extensively and in the mountains of North Carolina. The diesels do have more bottom end torque, but honestly, having towed with both there honestly isn't a nickle's worth of difference. Please hear me out before you go pay 45-60k for a truck and get disappointed. The Duramax is a great truck, but not great enough for me to go into debt for. If you are independently wealthy and money is no object and you are paying cash anyway...go ahead and get a Duramax. They are restyled for 2014. That may not matter. It wouldn't matter to me. I kinda like the 2013 body style better.
Just a quick correction, only the GM 1500 trucks are being re-styled for 2014, As of now, 2015 would be the earliest but probably 2016 for the GM HD's being re-styled.

And for what it's worth, we have a 2012 GMC 2500 HD Denali, it rides just a touch harder than a luxury sports car and we get 25 mpg at 65 mph (not towing) with cruise set. And while some will consider it a useless option, the air conditioned seats rock on long, summer drives
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Old 07-25-2013, 08:50 AM   #53
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All the gas engines for the gm trucks are getting powertrain changes for 2014. I mention it because someone was talking about the 6.2l. Biggest change being direct injection. The 6.2 L86 is rated at 425hp and 450lb-ft. What a beast!
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:26 AM   #54
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Just a bit off topic,
'06 chevy diesel was first year of the 6 speed allison.
What year was the start of the DEF fluid smog controls?

I've talked myself into the Chevy over Dodge, Ford, for the stronger tranny.
I hope there is a year or two to cherry pick a good one, , ,
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:31 AM   #55
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Short answer. No

Long answer. No, not at all.
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Old 07-25-2013, 12:28 PM   #56
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Smile slotted rotors

Quote:
Originally Posted by bpcaudill View Post
Just wanted to see what other members think. Presently, my wife and I have an 08' Tundra double cab set up pretty well for towing. I put on EBC slotted brakes (after the OEMs warped), along with the TRD rear sway bar and Toyo all terrain load range C tires.
GM presently has some pretty good rebates going on; enough to where I'm considering going (back) to a Duramax 2500 extended cab.
The Tundra just doesn't have the guts to pull our new International Serenity (front bedroom) 25' around like I would like it to considering the amount of hills we have here in Alaska. I'm never in full auto, but instead manually shifting between 3rd and 5th trying to maintain a "reasonable" 50 to 60 mph. Plus, I'm concerned about having my GVW too high for this vehicle.
Am still sitting pretty well with the Toyota regarding trade in value, but just want to make sure the Duramax isn't too much vehicle. I'm presently using the Reese Dual Cam hitch system and don't plan on changing.
Just figured it would be better to ask for opinions before I take this 17 grand plunge..
Thanks in advance...
Pat
Wy put slotted rotors on they are basicly for racing and will wear pads much faster
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Old 07-25-2013, 12:33 PM   #57
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Quote:
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Wy put slotted rotors on they are basicly for racing and will wear pads much faster
Brakes work by converting kinetic energy into heat. Slotted or cross-drilled rotors generally dissipate heat more quickly than an equivalent flat rotor, therefore would provide better stopping power in situations where braking is limited by heat dissipation rather than tire traction, such as descending a long grade. It's similar to why more rotors are vented now, especially on front wheels.
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Old 07-25-2013, 03:04 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by beachrats View Post
And for what it's worth, we have a 2012 GMC 2500 HD Denali, it rides just a touch harder than a luxury sports car and we get 25 mpg at 65 mph (not towing) with cruise set. And while some will consider it a useless option, the air conditioned seats rock on long, summer drives

WOW seriously,, you get 25 mpg at 65 mph in a Denali.. is that a hybrid or you just dreaming now down wind, down hill I can get 35 mpg on my chev impala 3.9L but i am half your size.. what gives.

What about around town mileage??

how about towing mileage..

this is very interesting to say the least. The A/C seats sounds COOL.. for sure.
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Old 07-25-2013, 05:18 PM   #59
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2007 Classic

Quote:
Originally Posted by CDONA View Post
Just a bit off topic,
'06 chevy diesel was first year of the 6 speed allison.
What year was the start of the DEF fluid smog controls?

I've talked myself into the Chevy over Dodge, Ford, for the stronger tranny.
I hope there is a year or two to cherry pick a good one, , ,
Your question is the reason I opted for the 2007 Classic. The 2007 Non-Classic came with the diesel afterburner, which I did not want. After that they came with urea injection (DEF) system, which I did not want either. I could have purchased a newer model, but the 2007 Classic had the Duramax I wanted and the six-speed Allison.
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Old 07-25-2013, 05:53 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CDONA View Post
Just a bit off topic,
'06 chevy diesel was first year of the 6 speed allison.
What year was the start of the DEF fluid smog controls?

I've talked myself into the Chevy over Dodge, Ford, for the stronger tranny.
I hope there is a year or two to cherry pick a good one, , ,
2001-04 1st gen "LB7" 300hp/520tq known for injector problems
04.5-05 2nd gen "LLY" 305hp/605tq variable geometry turbo + EGR
2006-07 3rd gen "LBZ" 360hp/650tq stronger internals
07.5-10 4th gen "LMM" 365hp/660tq DPF uses extra fuel to clean filter
2011+ 5th gen "LML" 397hp/765tq Urea injection

I only know this because I too wanted the much sought after LBZ.

Also an interesting factor that hasn't been mentioned yet is the value holding power of a diesel. Or the resale value. For a lot of good reasons, my truck is still worth today what I bought it for used in 2009. The same truck in a gasser is about half that.

Someone worked out the fuel cost difference, and it's correct. You have to drive the diesel around 100k miles to make $ sense. But maintenance $ is about the same. The diesel might last longer, but it takes 2x the oil, filters are more expensive, tires are more expensive, etc.

Even as biased as I am about diesel, there's definitely a place for a gas truck. And it makes sense for a lot of people. Personally, I make my own biodiesel, so it has to be a diesel. Even if all the other numbers didn't pencil out.

-Kevin
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