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Old 09-28-2015, 04:03 PM   #1
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Barely got 110,000 miles out of these brake pads after towing with my half to...

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I barely got 110,000 miles out of these brake pads after towing with my 1/2 ton, why do these wear so quickly?


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Old 09-28-2015, 04:23 PM   #2
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They don't even look worn out.

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Old 09-28-2015, 04:38 PM   #3
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sounds like you have a heavy foot on the brake! Ha Ha.
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Old 09-28-2015, 06:48 PM   #4
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110k on brake pads sounds pretty good.
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Old 09-28-2015, 06:52 PM   #5
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that is unheard of.. 100 k on brake pads pulling a trailer.. either you see stop lights for miles ahead and let off the gas or your trailer brakes are wearing out after 10K miles..

It hard to do that on a car much less a truck. good one.
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Old 09-28-2015, 06:56 PM   #6
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I had a 1990 Ford Ranger that I put 120k on without ever changing the pads. Only thing I ever replaced was the muffler on that truck. Sends most folks' BS meter into the red zone when I tell them that story. All truth.

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Old 09-28-2015, 08:08 PM   #7
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I pulled my trailer with a 97 Ford 150 a couple of times. I had to change the front rotors after each time. Do you live in flat land?
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Old 09-28-2015, 08:37 PM   #8
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Barely got 110,000 miles out of these brake pads after towing with my half to...

Lots of miles between AR, NM, and AZ.

The biggest grade I have navigated (several times now) is a fairly long 8%er south of Globe AZ on hwy 77.

I do like to feel my trailer brakes at every stop. Those brakes came on the truck, I took them off today with 118,000 miles, I think I might have been able to squeeze another 20,000 out of them.

The trick is, in my opinion of course, to avoid hard stops and to go down a hill at a speed that only requires intermittent, fairly light, and brief brake applications. It is all about pace and anticipating what is coming next.


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Old 09-28-2015, 09:26 PM   #9
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I replaced the brake pads on my Excursion @ 125,000 but it was preventative maintenance. Big Ford trucks have good brakes, but I don't use them much. Sadly, I had to replace the front calipers at 132,000 miles in Pensacola this winter, as the front was pulling when I applied the brakes. New pads were still good, so they are now in the new calipers.
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Old 09-28-2015, 10:43 PM   #10
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Yeah, I use normal deceleration and engine braking a lot.

Also, proper "break in" of the new brakes are KEY to longevity!!!
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Old 09-29-2015, 03:44 AM   #11
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Yeah, I use normal deceleration and engine braking a lot.

Also, proper "break in" of the new brakes are KEY to longevity!!!
I'm due for brakes on my car. What is proper break in?
I'd love them to last longer than they do.
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Old 09-29-2015, 03:57 AM   #12
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I'm due for brakes on my car. What is proper break in?
I'd love them to last longer than they do.
5 moderate to aggressive stops from 40 mph down to 10 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool and do not come to a complete stop. If you're forced to stop, either shift into neutral or give room in front so you can allow the vehicle to roll slightly while waiting for the light. The rotors will be very hot and holding down the brake pedal will allow the pad to create an imprint on the rotor. This is where the judder can originate from.Then do 5 mod­erate stops from 35 mph to 5 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool. You should expect to smell some resin as the brakes get hot.After this is complete, drive around for as long as possible without excessively heating the brakes and without coming to a complete stop (Try for about 5 minutes at moderate speed). This is the cooling stage. It allows the heated resin in the brake pads to cool and cure.After the brakes have cooled to standard operating temperature, you may use the brakes normally.
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Old 09-29-2015, 06:34 AM   #13
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Many years ago my Uncle Billy told me the way he would break stuff in.....

Upon starting break in, drive it just like you are going to drive it, proceed with this procedure for the life of the vehicle.

This has been working for me for about 35 years now.

If a person goes through a lot of brake pads;

A. The car is driven hard with lots of hard braking.

B. The pads used are not very good.

C. The car is driven hard with lots of hard braking.

If a person often sees lots of black dust on their front wheels see A and C above.


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Old 09-29-2015, 10:16 AM   #14
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Yup... see above!

http://www.ehow.com/how_7518438_brea...rake-pads.html

and as mentioned above:

http://www.powerstop.com/brake-pad-break-in-procedure/

Now, I do this all 'in the country'... I once lived in the country but the 'city' has 'improved' around me... so, it takes a little drive to get there...

I 'brake' using downshifting... coasting to stops (really upsets the Hybrid drivers behind me)...

I use the 'brakes' mildly then NEVer hold the car with them until break in complete. I use the clutch/ shift in/out of gear..

Once in the country, I proceed as above.. then drive at a moderate speed to cool the brakes.. then repeat the process...

The whole process is to 'transfer' brake pad material to the disc, then allow heating/cooling of the parts.... then cycle it at least 3 times... heat, cool.. repeat.

The brakes will work their best from now on...

NOTE.. when/if you have a 'hard/panic' stop, try to heat then cool the brakes again so that you 'balance' the brake material across the disc.
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Old 09-29-2015, 11:15 AM   #15
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It's all about friction material, Bro - asbestos. I'll bet a month's pay your replacement pads won't least nearly as long.

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Old 09-29-2015, 11:19 AM   #16
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It's all about friction material, Bro - asbestos. I'll bet a month's pay your replacement pads won't least nearly as long.

Tom
Tom.. do the carbon fiber pads also have asbestos?
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Old 09-29-2015, 03:48 PM   #17
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Since we only have 1 stop light working in over 900 sq. miles,,, our brakes last almost 200,000 miles..
Semi truck use to be set up with a brake pressure gauge to see how much pressure you were putting on them.. Up to 20% all you do is transfer the braking action to heat,., ANything over 20%,, you start eating up shoes and drums.. So,, gential pressure on the peddle to slow you down just makes heat.. To shift items in the TV is a sign of over 50% peddle pressure. Speaking of brake life,,, our farm semi has almost 400,000 miles on a set of shoes..

As for gas MPG... I have found with my Bully Dog gauge for my Dodge pu,,, I can gain almost 2 more MPG by coasting as much as possible ahead of a stop light or stop sign.. One does not gain that much time racing to the light,, then slamming on the brakes..

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Old 09-29-2015, 04:04 PM   #18
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110,000 on a set of brake pads demonstrates good driving habits-
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Old 09-29-2015, 04:24 PM   #19
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Sodbust, your 1 stop light in 900 miles made me laugh. When your in the city seems like you have 900 in 1 mile. Looked up Penokee on Google Earth, you're out there a bit. Pretty country.
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Old 09-29-2015, 08:29 PM   #20
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110K towing, they look great. My 2500 HD brakes are doing great at 65K, however when I tow I use the engine brake on the diesel engine to provide significant assistance when slowing down.
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