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Old 10-24-2020, 11:58 AM   #61
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2007 19' Bambi
La Jolla , California
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 14
Ok tightened another link this AM and moved some weight aft of the axle.

No WDH
Steer: 2600 lb
Drive: 4080
Trailer: 3960

WDH employed
Steer: 2920
Drive: 3500
Trailer: 4220

As you can see I was able to reduce weight on that rear axle.

Here’s the visual

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ntcdtyY4zgCsqQKx9

Feels good. Maybe I try to get another link tomorrow?
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Old 10-24-2020, 12:32 PM   #62
jcl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AirDrew View Post
Ok tightened another link this AM and moved some weight aft of the axle.

No WDH
Steer: 2600 lb
Drive: 4080
Trailer: 3960

WDH employed
Steer: 2920
Drive: 3500
Trailer: 4220

As you can see I was able to reduce weight on that rear axle.

Here’s the visual

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ntcdtyY4zgCsqQKx9

Feels good. Maybe I try to get another link tomorrow?
You are definitely on the right track. When you say it feels good, does that refer to reading the numbers and seeing a shift, or the feel of the combination when driving?

It would help if you posted the front and rear axle ratings from the door jamb, and weighed the Audi without the trailer connected at all.

With respect to wheel alignment, it would be worth getting a four wheel alignment if you haven’t done that recently. There will be a lot of discussion around camber (the rear tires leaning in at the top, looks worse when loaded due to the IRS) but I would consider that to be secondary. The aftermarket makes money selling kits to adjust the camber. Don’t fall for it. The most important spec is usually rear toe when considering rapid rear tire wear. This is which way the tires are pointing, in towards the vehicle centreline, or out. If they aren’t as true as possible, within the spec, the tires will essentially scrub, and wear with every rotation. The increased camber when loaded means that that wear shows up on one edge more than the other, but camber is only a secondary cause. If there is a rear toe spec range, you want the minimum. If you get the toe right, the camber can be incidental.

I have seen people install camber adjustment kits, not resolve their tire wear issues, get a good alignment, and greatly extend their rear tire life.

Good luck. You are getting there.

Jeff
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Old 10-24-2020, 01:47 PM   #63
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2007 27' International CCD FB
San Diego , California
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,593
Quote:
Originally Posted by AirDrew View Post
Ok tightened another link this AM and moved some weight aft of the axle.

No WDH
Steer: 2600 lb
Drive: 4080
Trailer: 3960

WDH employed
Steer: 2920
Drive: 3500
Trailer: 4220

As you can see I was able to reduce weight on that rear axle.

Here’s the visual

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ntcdtyY4zgCsqQKx9

Feels good. Maybe I try to get another link tomorrow?
That was a quick response with some nice objective info to back things up.

Those final numbers look great! Even without unladen before numbers, I can say you're well in the pocket of where you want to be. That's to say you have arrived at the setting you're looking for. Solid front axle weight restoration (FALR), under rear GAWR with margin, and I'm interpreting your feels good as solid stability under tow.

I'd temper the desire for another link, to overcorrect IMO, and perhaps even with some encouragement from some individuals on this board. As with any application of WD, it's always a balance of considerations. As you have a unibody SUV, it's important to consider torsional forces through the hitch. Too much WD tension can overtime create or cause structural issues, and actually bend and change the attitude of the hitch receiver.


jcl is generally correct that improper toe alignment scrubs, creates heat, and wears tires more than camber. Yet car alignments aren't set with load and perhaps was unavoidable with the WD settings you had prior. Would perhaps be worth a check, but I'm not particularly concerned that your alignment was part of the root cause to begin with. It was fundamentally the high rear axle load (over axle rating) creating the bad camber and toe in the rear suspension. Camber can be just as bad, particularly when near tire load ratings, as it causes much of the load to be focused on a single inner sidewall. Instead of the load being shared by both sidewalls, it causes the single tirewall to bear the majority of the weight, and deflect more as it goes round and round, locally overheating the inner tread. Add the effects of toe, and the tires never had a chance.

Happy streaming!
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Old 10-24-2020, 03:11 PM   #64
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2007 25' Safari
Rogers , AR
Join Date: Jun 2019
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Does the Q7 have air suspension? (just wondering)

Did you ever get alignment? If the toe is out you'll quickly wear out those new tires. The trailer weight will exaggerate this.

People say that high performance/low profile tires aren't good for towing, but they're stickier (safer) and have stiffer sidewalls. If the weight rating is on par and the vehicle was designed (and tow rated) for them there is nothing to worry about.

Instead of checking tire pressure every other day, check them with each fuel stop. That way you're getting more current HOT pressures. Remember temp and altitude will make pressures go up. Make sure they do not exceed max tire pressure. I failed to do this with my 2500 and broke a belt on a 10ply.

We towed a much heavier trailer with our Cayenne on some crappy end of life chinese tires that came on it. We were fortunate but the Cayenne's tire monitor has a target pressure for heavy loads that we kept an eye on. We also used a WDH.

The weight distribution is key, but I really feel like it was more your tires, wear and pressure than anything.
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Old 10-24-2020, 03:29 PM   #65
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2007 27' International CCD FB
San Diego , California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Merk View Post
Instead of checking tire pressure every other day, check them with each fuel stop. That way you're getting more current HOT pressures. Remember temp and altitude will make pressures go up. Make sure they do not exceed max tire pressure. I failed to do this with my 2500 and broke a belt on a 10ply.
Your recommendation for checking tire pressure is not correct, nor is it inline with recommended best practice per industry.

Tire pressures stated on the door sticker, tire sidewall, and per load rating is reference against cold tire pressure. It's never referenced against hot. it is expected and normal that hot pressures may exceed the max [cold] tire pressure on the sidewall, particularly if the recommended cold inflation of the vehicle is equal to the max tire pressure on the sidewall. If one stays within the load and speed specifications of the tire, the increased hot pressures will be within the expected thresholds of the tire design. It is not recommended to be bleeding off this temporary excess hot tire pressure.
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Old 10-24-2020, 04:03 PM   #66
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2007 25' Safari
Rogers , AR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pteck View Post
Your recommendation for checking tire pressure is not correct, nor is it inline with recommended best practice per industry.
I understand what you are saying. I'm not suggesting to lower them to cold pressures while hot.

Just be aware that altitude WILL increase your tire pressures beyond what is considered normal driving so at the very least check them every morning.
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Old 10-24-2020, 06:52 PM   #67
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2018 25' International
Slidell , Louisiana
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I'm with pteck I agree the scale numbers look great now. You want your rear axle loaded but not overloaded, it will be less likely to have an issue in an emergency. I would be surprised if you have any serious issue going forward. Watch the tire wear and get an alignment if you see any sign of it. I think you are golden now and have a good set up!
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Old 10-24-2020, 07:16 PM   #68
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2007 19' Bambi
La Jolla , California
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 14
Love it! I think we got it. Been measuring pressure and wear every AM and seems to be holding. Thanks for all the help guys!

Now I want a bigger airstream...

BTW posting photos of our x-country:

https://www.instagram.com/drewsanocki/
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Old 10-25-2020, 08:29 PM   #69
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Join Date: Jul 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AirDrew View Post
Love it! I think we got it. Been measuring pressure and wear every AM and seems to be holding. Thanks for all the help guys!

Now I want a bigger airstream...

BTW posting photos of our x-country:

https://www.instagram.com/drewsanocki/
Brands of WDH I have used, the maker wants the bars closer to parallel than the visual reveals... maybe this wasn't a pic of the final setting(?). On Blue Ox and Reese this is achieved by loosening the bolts and changing the tilt on the head. This also increases ground clearance at the bar ends.
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