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Old 10-21-2020, 09:22 AM   #21
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1. You're towing too much trailer for that car.

2. At the risk of getting kicked off the forum, man, you just sound like a douche. And that's coming from someone who tows his Airstream with a Lexus LX 570.
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Old 10-21-2020, 09:32 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Ol Dad View Post
At the risk of getting kicked off the forum, man, you just sound like a douche. And that's coming from someone who tows his Airstream with a Lexus LX 570.
Pretty sure Im not the douche in this situation.
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Old 10-21-2020, 10:38 AM   #23
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First - every rig needs the lash-up tuned. It's an on-going operation.
Second - you should have kept the BO.
Third - you are going to have to manage your load out.

The 27 is a great solution and I personally would do a lot to make it my coach.

The Audi is certainly a capable TV and just needs a bit of upgrade to finish the rig prep.

Back to the BO - it's value is that it delivers a flexible connection between coach and TV. The Easy-Lift hitch that CanAm recommends has much to recommend from cost to adjustability. No sway control is a mistake. Balanced weight distribution is a requirement. Not seeing directional stability issues, just means you have not driven in enough conditions nor tested enough.

Tires - 23s sound wrong. They will do the job, except they don't provide much tire to absorb chuck hole impacts. Rim and tire damage is the problem. They likely provide great towing stability, up until they are damaged. I like 50 series, but something between a 45-35 on a 19-20in rim may be the sweet spot . Availability is key to your long term satisfaction and do not go with an economy solution. I'm convinced the run-flats have value. Not because you can drive/tow on them. You can't. The value is that they have a stiffer sidewall. Yes, you need a spare.

Tongue weight - you need to manage your gear load out. Heavy items can not go where they might fit best or are convenient. They have to go where they best maintain rig stability. That means heavy items need to be low in the coach and over the axles. Do not load heavy items behind the axles (coach or TV). Aluminum LPG tanks cost $s, but reduce tongue weight. Leaving a tank at home or running with 20lb tanks is a less expensive solution. Running without a spare is an option. I reject that approach, but consider it. The change to an inside battery bank can make a significant improvement in tongue wright, but that modification on a new coach is less desirable. A pair of Lithium batteries in the existing box would be my choice until expanding the bank makes sense. Your load out will make the most difference. Think of your choices as if you were back packing until you have it all figured out.

Audi load out - Weight distribution hitch moves tongue weight to front axle and the rear trailer axle. All good for your rig balance. It does not eliminate that weight. It just shifts the where the load is supported. The mass is still where it is. Load the Audi between the axles. The more weight loaded toward the front axle, the less weight needs to be moved with the hitch. Note - the hitch moves weight to rear trailer axle too, so it's a balancing/tuning effort. Secure weight in the Audi so it is safe in an excursion event.

Hitch upgrade - I do not know what you have, but you likely need a receiver torque arm. Do a bolted install if your vehicle is leased, because you need to return it to stock when you return it at the end of the lease. A local fabrication shop can do the work, but you need to do the research and understand specifically what you want done. Do not rush into this .... do the research. Ask questions and do the research again. It's important. If you don't have the technical knowledge to do this, then you need to find someone who does. And that means, not someone who only thinks they do. Vehicle dynamics are different than statics.

Today - until you upgrade and tune the lasdhup, do not drive your current rig configuration over 55-60 mph and leave a lot of distance between you and the vehicle you are following. Enjoy those campground looks. You are learning something that they don't understand.

About the track - not sure what that means, but ..... track vehicles should be dedicated vehicles. The one and only should be used with care. The exception is the user who can replace all over the weekend and does not need to travel to work on Monday. Now a lot of "track" time is just spirited driving. Nothing wrong with that. Driving 8/10s is not nearly as hazardous as 10/10s. However, an SUV is not a track car. Its can be a great utility/ride car and provide spirited handling and performance in that function. It can also be rolled up into a bundle of sheet metal and blood in a hurry. Proceed with caution. There is a parallel here - there have been very quick SUVs that ran Pikes Peak - they were specifically prepared for that run. Towing is similar. You need to prepare your vehicle for the task at hand.

All comments are my personal opinion. Figure out your's and don't believe anything someone else tells you until you prove it for yourself with research and controlled testing.

Good luck with the new rig. Should make some great smiles and wonderful memories. Pat
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Old 10-21-2020, 10:41 AM   #24
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This is easy

Your nuts and are gonna die.
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Old 10-21-2020, 10:58 AM   #25
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Nuts

I could not imagine towing with a SUV. Even an F-150 would scare me. It is not just the motor but the brakes and suspension.
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Old 10-21-2020, 11:14 AM   #26
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Towing with LR4

We are towing our 2015 23 Flying Cloud FB with a 2016 LandRover LR4. The forum was helpful. With the air suspension we were told not to get a weight distributing hitch as it will "fight" with the suspension. We also upgraded the receiver to an 800 lb receiver despite the measured tongue weight being within the specs of the vehicle. We are also going to replace our batteries with Lithium and contemplated getting aluminum propane tanks (likely not worth the expense) to reduce the tongue weight. We got the adjustable drop hitch and did a lot of measuring to decide exactly where to set the hitch. We wanted to make sure that the air suspension returned to the normal wheel heights inside the wells and it did. We wanted the back to be slightly higher than the front to aid in angle of departure. There are a few other upgrades we will make to our AS but we love her. We just have to think of a great name for her.
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Old 10-21-2020, 11:17 AM   #27
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Don't you dare change out those rims. Hahaha

We have a similarly appointed 2019 Q7.
We feel the difference with the Q7 compared with our pickup towing our 18' but I think the advice you've been given so far is sound. Do your due diligence, but should be ok if you take it a little slower and plenty of extra time for stopping
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Old 10-21-2020, 11:28 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamies View Post
The dealer tried a weight-distributing hitch (Blue Ox) and none of us liked how either vehicle was holding the weight.
What did you mean by this?
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Old 10-21-2020, 11:32 AM   #29
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It is pretty hard to beat that Audi as a tow vehicle but if your feeling trucks pass your definitely not set up properly. I had the Porsche version over 90 MPH with a 27 and it was rock sold stable.

There is a great shop in LA that can also do the reinforce for you I can email you their information if someone has not yet. Send us a couple of side views of your setup as well. Something like the ones attached. andy@canamrv.ca

Andy
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Old 10-21-2020, 11:33 AM   #30
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Looks like 'Big Ol Dad' might wanna change his name to 'Big Ol D-Bag'

Sounds like the party line of the great responses is, you can do it but might not be the best idea if you are doing alot of traveling
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Old 10-21-2020, 11:54 AM   #31
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Audi Q8

My experience is, you should be fine. I have towed our 34 with similar weights with a MB GLS 550 for 5 years The computer controlled air suspension manages everything. Previously towed with 1500 Surburbans. The WDH changes the tongue wt. I do prefer a Hensley Hitch and have included photo. I have the vehicle hitch upgrade from Can Am RV. I have moved it from vehicles myself. It is just a brace from the rear of the hitch to the rear end subframe to prevent any roll flex from heavy use of WDH. I can send you pics of it if you DM me. Most any fab shop can make it. Our rig is very stable, powerful and has bigger brakes than my pickup, so, ... each to their own! Sorry for upside down pics
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Old 10-21-2020, 12:02 PM   #32
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Payload hasn't been mentioned here at all and I don't think the 770 lb hitch spec refers to anything but the hitch itself.
Gross vehicle weight rating minus curb weight = payload
Payload includes the driver, all passengers plus cargo and trailer tongue weight. Can you find the GVWR and curb weight for your Audi? Check drivers door jamb for stickers with this info.

So you're over the hitch weight, close to the max trailer towing capacity and I suspect you may be over your payload spec. A trip to a CAT scale or borrow/purchase a Sherline scale to get an actual tongue weight would be a good idea so you're working with real numbers.

As someone else mentioned already, many half ton trucks would be challenged by a 1000 lb tongue weight. This is exactly why our Tundra was replaced with a F250. Huge difference. Hard to explain until you experience it. I can appreciate the desire to do it all with your Audi but it's kind of like driving nails with a crescent wrench when you really need a hammer.
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Old 10-21-2020, 12:23 PM   #33
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Anything can pull anything when all conditions are perfect. The "tell" is when things go south, what happens to the lash-up (and any other 3rd parties)?

Audi Q8 is an amazing vehicle - agreed. That said, I would never even consider this combination. Too many intangibles. JMHO, of course.
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Old 10-21-2020, 12:42 PM   #34
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I think you are in trouble

Hi, unfortunately I think you are in trouble and in the same boat we are with our Tow vehicle. As new airstream owners we were undereducated on ALL of the actual weights that mattered, and have learned from the school of hard knocks that even our Ram 1500 is insufficient by the numbers for the Globetrotter27FBQ:-(

We made the mistake of trusting 2 numbers. One was the towing capacity of the vehicle which is really a false sense of security as it is only one of many numbers that need to be calculated. The second as mentioned by others is the actual tongue weight. For our globetrotter loaded for travel with plenty of unused storage and empty tanks, we weight 7000lbs on a CAT scale. But our hitch weight is 970lbs, 100 more than published.

The numbers you need to pay attention to:
1) Towing Capacity. You are technically good there at 7700lbs being greater than the 7600lbs GVWR of the trailer.
2) Hitch weight. You are probably in trouble here but to know, you need a trip to the CAT scales plus a tongue weight scale (you can do it without the tongue weight scale, but the math gets a bit tricky for sorting it out the first time on your own). Even with a weight distribution hitch properly configured , I can only get the tongue weight down to 800lbs on our Ram. I think it’s because I also have air suspension and I think it fights to counteract the WD hitch. In theory you should be able to get down to 2/3 of the dead hitch weight but I can make it happen. At best, 2/3 of 970 is still over 600lbs.
3) Tow vehicle payload/GVWR. This is a hidden kicker. I don’t know what your payload is, but it should be on your door sticker. Different manufacturers include or exclude fuel. Regardless, you need to take the weight of passengers, vehicle cargo, fuel, AND the weight of the WD hitch weight (plus the hitch itself) and make sure you don’t exceed GVWR. This one is actually easy to figure out. Load up like you are going on a trip ad take the whole rig across a CAT scale. The sum of the front and rear axel weights Is the fully loaded GVWR of your Audi. I hope it is under the sticker value, but sadly I would bet it is not.
4) Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR). This is what the Audi is rated for total rig configuration. Again this is an easy number to get rolling across a CAT scale, but will also bet it is not within range. When towing capacity is stated it is usually assuming just a driver. If you take the GCWR and subtract out the Towing capacity, it is very likely to be a number quite a bit smaller than the tow vehicles GVWR.

I have researched more tow vehicles than I care to recount that will tow our globetrotter and meet ALL of the above specs and the list is decidedly short and mostly contains 250/2500 class trucks:-(.

Will your Audi tow it? Sure, you already proved you can. Do people tow with even less? Yup, seen it and scratched my head how.

It depends what you think exceeding any rating number does to your ability to claim warranty repairs, what the likely stress on the tow vehicle is, and what you feel your exposure is to liability or lack of coverage should you ever be in an accident/incident and you were exceeding a spec. Additionally if you are knocking up against limits, you need to think about what that does towing through sub-optimal conditions like an unexpected snow or through mountainous terrain.

Good luck, unfortunately this is not information I was easily able to find or was educated on before we bought our Globetrotter.
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Old 10-21-2020, 12:44 PM   #35
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You cannot upgrade the towing ratings of a vehicle.

If you get into an accident and someone is killed or injured then all of your efforts to mitigate being overweight will fall on deaf ears when talking to the investigators, families and insurance companies involved.

That coach is designed to be pulled by a truck. Short of this, youre putting your loved ones in the vehicle and those on the road in unnecessary danger.
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Old 10-21-2020, 12:50 PM   #36
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FWIW: I would not ride in that setup or ever put my family into that setup. Just like I would not strap car seats into a Class C.... can it be done yes, should it be? NO. Your asking for trouble brotha man.
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Old 10-21-2020, 12:51 PM   #37
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Sincere thanks to everyone for their feedback thus far. All opinions are much appreciated.

Photos of the hitch coming when I get a chance to head into town. Dang work...




Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew T View Post
Send us a couple of side views of your setup as well. Something like the ones attached.
Thanks Andrew. I'm eager to take some photos and will do so in the next few days...


Quote:
Originally Posted by PKI View Post
About the track - not sure what that means, but ..... track vehicles should be dedicated vehicles.
I should absolutely clarify; my definition of track is occasionally (once a year) driving spiritedly on a closed road. And nothing extreme, just an opportunity put the car through it's paces.
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Old 10-21-2020, 12:53 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniels View Post
Sounds like the party line of the great responses is, you can do it but might not be the best idea if you are doing alot of traveling
I'd say the party's lines are:
If they have actually towed with a stout Euro SUV - you'll be fine or better.
If they haven't towed with a well-setup SUV - you're doomed.

Our experience - pickups are just not as capable at towing as a well-setup SUV. Their brakes, suspension, chassis strength are much better than half tons, and you need to go 3/4T or higher to match an SUV capabilities. Vans and full-bodied body-on-frame SUV's (not pickups) approach the chassis strength of a Euro SUV.

Payload is the issue, and if you need/want to carry generators and "stuff," then you push the limits of your Audi.
BTW "payload" is calculated including a "150 lb. Standard Driver" and a full tank of fuel. i.e. that adds 150# to the preceding comments.

Wheelbase alone is not part of the tow equation, nor is the trailer length. The operative number is the Ratio of Rear Overhang to TV wheelbase. That determines the amount of leverage the Mass (not length) of the trailer exerts on a TV.

We looked at an SQ7 and it's definitely in the mix as replacement for our M-B ML350 Diesel (Can-Am RV reinforced and setup).
What a fun vehicle you will have. Towing prowess (assuming good setup), track ready and off-road capability.
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Old 10-21-2020, 12:55 PM   #39
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jamies,

I have a 2017 Q7 with the hitch receiver reinforced for weight distribution. If you want pictures of the fabricated reinforcement parts and installation, send me a message with your email address. The work was done at a shop in Redwood City, California, so you don't have to go to Canada to get it done.

You'll get a number of well-supported WD hitch recommendations from experienced forum posters. I recommend the Anderson hitch due to it's ease of installation and set up, wide range of weight distribution, very effective sway control, and the light weight of the hitch itself on the tail of the Audi.
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Old 10-21-2020, 01:01 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seanlb View Post
If you get into an accident and someone is killed or injured then all of your efforts to mitigate being overweight will fall on deaf ears when talking to the investigators, families and insurance companies involved.
By the same logic, if you have an accident while speeding, or didn't fully stop at a sign, your insurance won't cover you.
I wonder if that's really the case - this has been stated on many forums over the years, but no evidence presented that I have ever seen. Including a call to my insurance carrier.

Plus I don't think @jamies is overloaded, if he spends time with his loads.
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