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Old 02-19-2018, 03:50 PM   #1
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Anyone using 2017 Ram 1500 for 27ft FB?

I know there are all different opinions on what tow vehicle to use but I was wanting to hear from folks using a Ram 1500 to tow a 27ft FB. I'm getting ready to buy both. I'll be towing all over but only on weekends and two-three weeks at a time. I'll be using the Ram as a daily driver. looking for others experiences.
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Old 02-19-2018, 04:24 PM   #2
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I used to tow a 27’ gooseneck with my Ram 1500 hemi. It was fine. For an AS I’d go with a good WD hitch for sure. Also make sure you get the towing package with extra coolers.
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Old 02-19-2018, 04:53 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Newbie2018 View Post
I know there are all different opinions on what tow vehicle to use but I was wanting to hear from folks using a Ram 1500 to tow a 27ft FB. I'm getting ready to buy both. I'll be towing all over but only on weekends and two-three weeks at a time. I'll be using the Ram as a daily driver. looking for others experiences.
The only concern I would have is the payload. Only you can determine how much payload you need. We tend to carry a lot of extra stuff in the bed of our truck including water, generators, tables, chairs, etc. It all adds up.

Most 1/2 ton trucks have a limited payload. You have the hitch weight of the trailer, all the people in the cab, and anything you carry in your truck to consider. The AS alone can be upward of 1,000 pounds once you have it loaded with dishes, food, etc. That does not leave much room for "stuff"! You can see the payload on the driver's door sticker. Any options you add to the truck such as bigger wheels, running boards, 4 wheel drive, sunroof, etc. all reduce the payload of the truck.

I pull a 27' and realized my Tundra was overloaded. Sold it and bought an F250.
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Old 02-19-2018, 05:14 PM   #4
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Payload, payload, and did someone else say "payload"? Don't go by the brochure or on line specs...check out the sticker in the door of the unit your looking at...I found most of the dealer "lot" based 1/2T Rams were under 1300lbs total payload... with a super cab, 4x4, short bed, fairly well equipped. Try adding passenger, dog, driver, generator, camp gear, AS tongue weight, WDH, and your likely over that number with a 27'. Be interested to here what you end up with...good luck!
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Old 02-19-2018, 06:29 PM   #5
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Today I tow a 25' FB International with a 2013 RAM 1500. And I recently ordered a 27' Globetrotter that I plan to tow with the same truck.

I'm not sure if you are ordering a RAM or buying one off the lot but, as was mentioned, check the payload. It is the achilles heel of the RAM 1500. Regarding towing ability it does a great job. I would suggest a 3.92 rear gear for the 27'.

The reason a RAM trucks have lower payload is the use of coil springs on the back axle. Ford and GM use leaf springs which results in higher payload capacity. The coil springs makes the ride and handling somewhat better. So as a daily driver the RAM 1500 is excellent.

And the 27' actually has a lighter TW than the 25' AS. So that should be a plus.

The new 2019 RAM 1500, which has just started in production, addresses the payload issue by making the truck lighter and stronger. You might want to investigate the capabilities of this truck as an option.

If you have any specific questions I, and others I'm sure, would be glad to try to address them.
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Old 02-19-2018, 09:23 PM   #6
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Yes order the 2019 Ram and you may want to look at the eco-diesel engine in that truck
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Old 02-20-2018, 09:38 AM   #7
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yes we have now had our Ram since 2015 & pull our 2004 AS 28 foot with slide out & it has performed very well & much better than our Suburban which we love but gave us problems.
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Old 02-20-2018, 11:29 AM   #8
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Ram

We all have our Opinions on Tow Vehicles..True That. We have a 2016 Dodge Ram 2500 Diesel, Short Bed. Last Year we were out 12 times, and one trip was thru Washington, Idaho, Wyoming. Simply put, it was a Beast, performed flawless., Often I nearly forgot I was towing our 26 ft. Airstream.
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Old 02-20-2018, 11:31 AM   #9
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I have a 2016 Ram LTD 4x4 and it has but 987lbs of payload. Granted - it’s loaded with options.
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Old 02-20-2018, 11:56 AM   #10
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I pull a 30' AS with a 2016 Ram 1500 ECO Diesel. I use an Equalizer WD hitch. I get up to 17 mpg pulling at 62 mph.
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Old 02-20-2018, 12:03 PM   #11
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Just another opinion about Tow Vehicles

Having towed several different AS trailer with several different TVs, I have a serious preference for 3/4 ton rated TV. I currently own a GMC Sierra 1500 std cab, short box, 5.3 L gas engine, tow package AND a 2017 Chevy 2500HD, drew cab, Duramax Diesel, tow package.


After 3 trips in mountainous areas with the GMC 1500, at near GVWR, I bought the Chevy 2500. The GMC 1500 was slow going up and a little harder to control going down. I never felt unsafe towing with the GMC, but am much more comfortable with the CHevy 2500; Much better load capacity, better brakes, and better control with a heavier TV.

Having towed several AS trailers with several different TV, I have always had a preference for 3/4 ton rated TV. 10 years for full timing, 100.000 miles in 40 states influences my opinions. My experience is that smaller engine TVs don't do good fuel milage when towing and are marginally better when solo.

My Chevy Crew Cab 2500 is a good dailey driver (except in very small parking lots).

With all vehicle combinations, I have used Reese WD hitch with Dual Cam Sway Control with great success in all conditions.

Hope you find what works well for YOU and enjoy the travels.
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Old 02-20-2018, 12:09 PM   #12
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Towing a 27 FC with a RAM 1500...

I spent two months towing my 2015 27 FC with a 2012 RAM 1500 Hemi. It definitely can work if you avoid the Rockies. I ended up selling my RAM and getting a RAM 2500 Cummins. The Cummins is 100% better based upon the added torque and exhaust brake. I drive the Cummins all over the Rockies and I never worry about payload issues. In fact, I haul two Honda generators and a 650 pound motorcycle in the bed of my 2500 and it is rock solid and stable. I can pull back onto the road from a sight seeing turnout on a steep incline with no problem. I can also go down steep downgrades with my exhaust brake and on tow mode and I hardly have to use my brake pedal. My 2500 Cummins has a long bed, but for a daily driver I would recommend a shorter bed. Any 2500 diesel pickup will probably do the job nicely and safely...unless you don't mind avoiding the Rockies.
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Old 02-20-2018, 12:30 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimfa440 View Post
I pull a 30' AS with a 2016 Ram 1500 ECO Diesel. I use an Equalizer WD hitch. I get up to 17 mpg pulling at 62 mph.
What does your payload sticker on the door say if you don't mind me asking?
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Old 02-20-2018, 01:46 PM   #14
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I have a 2016 Ram Hemi 4x4 Big Horn. Didn't know I would be buying a 2017 Intl. Sig. 27FB. To new to trade in so I put air bags and heavier shocks. Use blue ox wth. No problems in mountains. Never go faster than the posted truck/trailer speed. Always run max air pressure in tires. She performs very nice. Can't justify going to a 2500 at this time.
Good luck to you.
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Old 02-22-2018, 08:12 PM   #15
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Before purchase something I do is to make sure the travel trailer (TT) gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) is within the max tow rating of the particular tow vehicle (TV) I’m looking at just to see if the two can potentially be a match. Extra room here is always good.

Newbie let me help you out with all these agenda driven payloaders. Most are the blind leading the blind that don’t have the first idea what it takes to set up a safe stable tow with their TV & TT even with their family’s safety depending upon it. They are more interested in their agenda & parroting what they have read from others like themselves. Let’s start to put the knowledge of what it takes to determine if how & what you need to have in order to set up a TV & TT for a safe stable tow. Better your family’s safety is in your knowledge & hands instead of blind faith in erroneously stacking weight guesstimates toward a payload sticker number as most “payloaders” on these forums do. Not that the number derived has much to do with the actual stability & safety of a TV & TT set up. Mostly tits on a boar information. No mfg recommends this “method” for determining anything.

Ok if memory serves me a new dry 27’ AS should weigh a little less than 6k. Actual dry weight is listed on the front drivers side sticker of the AS. According to truck Mfgs for trailers above 5k you should use a weight distribution hitch (WDH). First biggie for stability & safety is you want a tongue weigh (TW) in the 10 to 15 percent range. This is based on actual experience & physics. U Haul did a great YouTube toy video that quickly demonstrates this. You set this with your WDH & weight distribution in your TV & TT according to scale results. Such as a CAT scale that weighs your steer, drive, & TT axles separately at the same time.

Ok wet camp ready TTs typically weigh almost 1k above the dry weight. So if you set your TW to say 12 percent of 7K that means your truck axles as seen on the scales will see a TW of about 840 pounds. This contributes toward your gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) or max trailering payload. Fwiw as an example my 4th gen 1500 Ram has a GVWR of 6,950 & a dry weight of 5,500. This WDH TW thing confuses most “payloaders” because they don’t understand that a WDH spreads static TT TW, Hitch weight, & more between both the TV & TT. Plus most have never invested in their own knowledge & the $12 it costs to insure their families safety by visiting a CAT scale with their TV & TT.

Yes I know that before scales were common place we had to rely on other measurements & such and that at one time most of us survived without seat belts & such. And that still others just load the family hook & book down the freeway with their headlights in the eyes of oncoming traffic & their fate in the wind.

The second biggie toward stability & safety is steer axle weight. You should both make sure your loaded TV retains its unloaded steer axle weight and that it does not exceed its rated limit. Again these numbers are from mfg & based in mathematics & Physics not that I can explain them. My Rams unloaded steer weight with me & as driven is 3,260 & my steer axle weight limit is 3,900.

The third biggie toward safety & stability is making sure your loaded drive axle weight doesn’t exceed its rated maximum. My Rams drive axle safe weight rating is 3,900. Again steer & drive weights and TW percentage is set via WDH adjustments plus physical weight distribution in your TV & TT. If you cannot get these numbers within mfg spec your TV & TT will not be as stable & safe as it should be. Generally the more equally the weight is distributed between the drive & steer axles the better.

If & after you are able to get these within mfg limits you should verify from your scale slip that your combined vehicle weight rating (CVWR), & GVWR are within mfg spec. CVWR generally having to do with stoping & suspension handling capacities best as I understand. GVW while it may not be the most critical number in fact sometimes nominally exceeding it can aid stability & safety with a heavy trailer is often the first number that exceeds rating spec which is why many more legalistically minded rightfully holler about payload or more accurately with respects to towing.. GVWR.

With respects to GVW you should also factor in or take into account as best you can heavier things that you may need to carry in your TV or TT. For example if you know you are going to need to put an 800 pound ATV in your bed than you can estimate that you would be significantly over GVWR & perhaps worse over axle. In which case you would be better served to pick a larger TV. None the less staying within mfg specs according to scales is a concrete way of determining if you can and what needs adjusted in order to get your TV & TT in spec and set up for stable safe towing.

Sorry to be so lengthy but squeezing that on a bumper sticker would not work.
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Old 02-23-2018, 05:41 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VernDiesel View Post
Before purchase something I do is to make sure the travel trailer (TT) gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) is within the max tow rating of the particular tow vehicle (TV) I’m looking at just to see if the two can potentially be a match. Extra room here is always good.

Newbie let me help you out with all these agenda driven payloaders. Most are the blind leading the blind that don’t have the first idea what it takes to set up a safe stable tow with their TV & TT even with their family’s safety depending upon it. They are more interested in their agenda & parroting what they have read from others like themselves. Let’s start to put the knowledge of what it takes to determine if how & what you need to have in order to set up a TV & TT for a safe stable tow. Better your family’s safety is in your knowledge & hands instead of blind faith in erroneously stacking weight guesstimates toward a payload sticker number as most “payloaders” on these forums do. Not that the number derived has much to do with the actual stability & safety of a TV & TT set up. Mostly tits on a boar information. No mfg recommends this “method” for determining anything.

Ok if memory serves me a new dry 27’ AS should weigh a little less than 6k. Actual dry weight is listed on the front drivers side sticker of the AS. According to truck Mfgs for trailers above 5k you should use a weight distribution hitch (WDH). First biggie for stability & safety is you want a tongue weigh (TW) in the 10 to 15 percent range. This is based on actual experience & physics. U Haul did a great YouTube toy video that quickly demonstrates this. You set this with your WDH & weight distribution in your TV & TT according to scale results. Such as a CAT scale that weighs your steer, drive, & TT axles separately at the same time.

Ok wet camp ready TTs typically weigh almost 1k above the dry weight. So if you set your TW to say 12 percent of 7K that means your truck axles as seen on the scales will see a TW of about 840 pounds. This contributes toward your gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) or max trailering payload. Fwiw as an example my 4th gen 1500 Ram has a GVWR of 6,950 & a dry weight of 5,500. This WDH TW thing confuses most “payloaders” because they don’t understand that a WDH spreads static TT TW, Hitch weight, & more between both the TV & TT. Plus most have never invested in their own knowledge & the $12 it costs to insure their families safety by visiting a CAT scale with their TV & TT.

Yes I know that before scales were common place we had to rely on other measurements & such and that at one time most of us survived without seat belts & such. And that still others just load the family hook & book down the freeway with their headlights in the eyes of oncoming traffic & their fate in the wind.

The second biggie toward stability & safety is steer axle weight. You should both make sure your loaded TV retains its unloaded steer axle weight and that it does not exceed its rated limit. Again these numbers are from mfg & based in mathematics & Physics not that I can explain them. My Rams unloaded steer weight with me & as driven is 3,260 & my steer axle weight limit is 3,900.

The third biggie toward safety & stability is making sure your loaded drive axle weight doesn’t exceed its rated maximum. My Rams drive axle safe weight rating is 3,900. Again steer & drive weights and TW percentage is set via WDH adjustments plus physical weight distribution in your TV & TT. If you cannot get these numbers within mfg spec your TV & TT will not be as stable & safe as it should be. Generally the more equally the weight is distributed between the drive & steer axles the better.

If & after you are able to get these within mfg limits you should verify from your scale slip that your combined vehicle weight rating (CVWR), & GVWR are within mfg spec. CVWR generally having to do with stoping & suspension handling capacities best as I understand. GVW while it may not be the most critical number in fact sometimes nominally exceeding it can aid stability & safety with a heavy trailer is often the first number that exceeds rating spec which is why many more legalistically minded rightfully holler about payload or more accurately with respects to towing.. GVWR.

With respects to GVW you should also factor in or take into account as best you can heavier things that you may need to carry in your TV or TT. For example if you know you are going to need to put an 800 pound ATV in your bed than you can estimate that you would be significantly over GVWR & perhaps worse over axle. In which case you would be better served to pick a larger TV. None the less staying within mfg specs according to scales is a concrete way of determining if you can and what needs adjusted in order to get your TV & TT in spec and set up for stable safe towing.

Sorry to be so lengthy but squeezing that on a bumper sticker would not work.
VernDiesel...No need to insult everyone on the forum. We're not "agenda driven payloaders". The forum is supposed to be fun and informative.
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Old 02-23-2018, 06:42 AM   #17
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I tow my 2007 International 28’ with a 2016Ram 1500 5.7Hemi with 3.92 gears. I did install Sumo Springs on the rear. I love the truck and with 8 speed tranny I have no issues with performance. 10 mpg towing sucks, but I don’t tow full time. The truck is a great DD with lots of features and comfort.

I have tried three different hitches and the Andersen is my preference.
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Old 02-23-2018, 08:40 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VernDiesel View Post
Before purchase something I do is to make sure the travel trailer (TT) gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) is within the max tow rating of the particular tow vehicle (TV) I’m looking at just to see if the two can potentially be a match. Extra room here is always good.

Newbie let me help you out with all these agenda driven payloaders. Most are the blind leading the blind that don’t have the first idea what it takes to set up a safe stable tow with their TV & TT even with their family’s safety depending upon it. They are more interested in their agenda & parroting what they have read from others like themselves. Let’s start to put the knowledge of what it takes to determine if how & what you need to have in order to set up a TV & TT for a safe stable tow. Better your family’s safety is in your knowledge & hands instead of blind faith in erroneously stacking weight guesstimates toward a payload sticker number as most “payloaders” on these forums do. Not that the number derived has much to do with the actual stability & safety of a TV & TT set up. Mostly tits on a boar information. No mfg recommends this “method” for determining anything.

Ok if memory serves me a new dry 27’ AS should weigh a little less than 6k. Actual dry weight is listed on the front drivers side sticker of the AS. According to truck Mfgs for trailers above 5k you should use a weight distribution hitch (WDH). First biggie for stability & safety is you want a tongue weigh (TW) in the 10 to 15 percent range. This is based on actual experience & physics. U Haul did a great YouTube toy video that quickly demonstrates this. You set this with your WDH & weight distribution in your TV & TT according to scale results. Such as a CAT scale that weighs your steer, drive, & TT axles separately at the same time.

Ok wet camp ready TTs typically weigh almost 1k above the dry weight. So if you set your TW to say 12 percent of 7K that means your truck axles as seen on the scales will see a TW of about 840 pounds. This contributes toward your gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) or max trailering payload. Fwiw as an example my 4th gen 1500 Ram has a GVWR of 6,950 & a dry weight of 5,500. This WDH TW thing confuses most “payloaders” because they don’t understand that a WDH spreads static TT TW, Hitch weight, & more between both the TV & TT. Plus most have never invested in their own knowledge & the $12 it costs to insure their families safety by visiting a CAT scale with their TV & TT.

Yes I know that before scales were common place we had to rely on other measurements & such and that at one time most of us survived without seat belts & such. And that still others just load the family hook & book down the freeway with their headlights in the eyes of oncoming traffic & their fate in the wind.

The second biggie toward stability & safety is steer axle weight. You should both make sure your loaded TV retains its unloaded steer axle weight and that it does not exceed its rated limit. Again these numbers are from mfg & based in mathematics & Physics not that I can explain them. My Rams unloaded steer weight with me & as driven is 3,260 & my steer axle weight limit is 3,900.

The third biggie toward safety & stability is making sure your loaded drive axle weight doesn’t exceed its rated maximum. My Rams drive axle safe weight rating is 3,900. Again steer & drive weights and TW percentage is set via WDH adjustments plus physical weight distribution in your TV & TT. If you cannot get these numbers within mfg spec your TV & TT will not be as stable & safe as it should be. Generally the more equally the weight is distributed between the drive & steer axles the better.

If & after you are able to get these within mfg limits you should verify from your scale slip that your combined vehicle weight rating (CVWR), & GVWR are within mfg spec. CVWR generally having to do with stoping & suspension handling capacities best as I understand. GVW while it may not be the most critical number in fact sometimes nominally exceeding it can aid stability & safety with a heavy trailer is often the first number that exceeds rating spec which is why many more legalistically minded rightfully holler about payload or more accurately with respects to towing.. GVWR.

With respects to GVW you should also factor in or take into account as best you can heavier things that you may need to carry in your TV or TT. For example if you know you are going to need to put an 800 pound ATV in your bed than you can estimate that you would be significantly over GVWR & perhaps worse over axle. In which case you would be better served to pick a larger TV. None the less staying within mfg specs according to scales is a concrete way of determining if you can and what needs adjusted in order to get your TV & TT in spec and set up for stable safe towing.

Sorry to be so lengthy but squeezing that on a bumper sticker would not work.
Agenda driven? Hmmmm....seems like the pot calling the kettle black?
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Old 02-23-2018, 10:04 AM   #19
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Holy Grail, you are correct most posters are not on the payload bandwagon and I was a bit condescending. I apologize for that. I do get frustrated with them because many like Newbie come here earnestly for good advice & information and instead get sometimes purposely mis directed & confused by people they don’t even know.

For Newbie I happen to be towing an 18 27’ FC today with my Ram 1500. This one is well optioned with lots of windows and weighs 6,200. IMO with a good well set up per scales WDH with built in sway control with either Ecodiesel or Hemi and 3.92s with the 8 speed trans will make a great TV & TT combination. Naturally the Hemi is faster & ED a lot more fuel efficient. As mentioned unless you need to more heavily load the bed in which case you may prefer a 2500/250 mostly to stay inside GVWR. Airbags can also be a great suspension aid & supplement to the WDH especially for the softly sprung 1500.
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Old 02-23-2018, 11:19 AM   #20
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My 2016 Ram Lonestar has a 1486 load rating and 10,200 towing. It does have the 3.92 rear end which is what you need to increase the capacity for your proposed FC27. Power is not an issue with the Hemi including trips to the NM mountains. Some folks worry about MPG which will typically 11-12 while towing. Cruising empty the 3.92 will hurt your MPG (compared to the 3.21 rear end) but we still get in the 18-20 mpg range. The FC 27 is not that much heavier than our FC25, you should do well with a Ram 1500. If I were going to a longer Airstream (FC30 and bigger) I personally would upgrade to a 3/4 ton.
I do not carry much in the truck bed except one or 2 Honda 2000's if needed for the trip and a Weber grill (which is always needed)
You are getting way too much advice. do your home work and pick a Tow Vehicle that meets your needs for safe travel with your family.
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