|
|
07-17-2009, 02:09 PM
|
#21
|
3 Rivet Member
1971 25' Caravanner
scappoose
, Oregon
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 206
|
In the vehicle that I was referring to, an '80 K-25, it appeared that the fluid had never been changed. The mechanic at the shop, that I use, told me that over time, (in this case, a long time), the moisture will find it's way down to the cylinders, and the heat build-up would cause the moisture to "boil", so to speak, and the vapor pockets would cause the pedal to feel "spongy". Not to mention, rusting the insides of the cylinders, which would then cause leaks.
|
|
|
07-17-2009, 04:00 PM
|
#22
|
"Cloudsplitter"
2003 25' Classic
Houstatlantavegas
, Malebolgia
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 20,000
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by rangebowdrie
In the vehicle that I was referring to, an '80 K-25, it appeared that the fluid had never been changed. The mechanic at the shop, that I use, told me that over time, (in this case, a long time), the moisture will find it's way down to the cylinders, and the heat build-up would cause the moisture to "boil", so to speak, and the vapor pockets would cause the pedal to feel "spongy". Not to mention, rusting the insides of the cylinders, which would then cause leaks.
|
Exactly, it's always been a 30k maintainence item at every dealer I've worked at.
Caveat, excess heat will also cause new fluid to boil, the most common cause of a soft pedal under hard braking. Moisture, (water) compresses at a different rate than brake fluid causing the same condition.
__________________
I’m done with ‘adulting’…Let’s go find Bigfoot.
|
|
|
07-20-2009, 08:48 AM
|
#23
|
4 Rivet Member
1978 28' Ambassador
Kenton
, Ohio
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 459
|
Thanks for all the suggestions. I just came off a week of towing in the U.P. of Michigan. I believe these brakes work as they should. The anti-lock works fine (had a chance to try it) and the dealer says they are up to snuff. They pretty much said that this is how they work. But I honestly don't think my wife could handle it if she had to stop the truck and trailer in an emergency, although adrenaline is a wonderful equalizer. I know this truck is big and heavy and it is a truck and not my little VW Golf, which will stop on a dime. I think I will check with an independent brake shop and see what they say. This truck is a great tow vehicle. Put 1500 miles on it the past week without a problem. I have even come to accept the gas mileage. It needs some attention to some rust that is just starting but I don't want to throw money at it if I can't get these issues resolved. I will keep checking out everyones suggestions...again, thanks.
Tom
|
|
|
08-02-2009, 04:05 PM
|
#24
|
4 Rivet Member
1978 28' Ambassador
Kenton
, Ohio
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 459
|
Besides the recommended Edelbrock shocks, does anyone have any opinions on other brands?
Thanks,
Tom
__________________
"Without music to decorate it, time is just a bunch of boring production deadlines or dates by which bills must be paid." -- Frank Zappa
|
|
|
01-03-2010, 01:47 AM
|
#25
|
3 Rivet Member
1975 Argosy 24
West Linn
, Oregon
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 241
|
Bilstiens are good value for the money, and have a soft ride on the freeway. New shocks and have the leaf springs taken apart, polished, new teflon pads and grease, they will ride better than new. An expert could recommend taking a leaf out and re-arching the springs, but that gets iffy for towing unless you are really sure what you are doing. Call around and find the closest leaf spring rebuilder, or it might be cheaper to just buy a new pair, ready to go and with a lower spring rate from one of the traditional 4x4 suspension companies like Rancho or similar.
Sean & Sharon
1975 24' Argosy
West Linn, OR
|
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|