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Old 07-17-2009, 02:09 PM   #21
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1971 25' Caravanner
scappoose , Oregon
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Posts: 206
In the vehicle that I was referring to, an '80 K-25, it appeared that the fluid had never been changed. The mechanic at the shop, that I use, told me that over time, (in this case, a long time), the moisture will find it's way down to the cylinders, and the heat build-up would cause the moisture to "boil", so to speak, and the vapor pockets would cause the pedal to feel "spongy". Not to mention, rusting the insides of the cylinders, which would then cause leaks.
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Old 07-17-2009, 04:00 PM   #22
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2003 25' Classic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rangebowdrie View Post
In the vehicle that I was referring to, an '80 K-25, it appeared that the fluid had never been changed. The mechanic at the shop, that I use, told me that over time, (in this case, a long time), the moisture will find it's way down to the cylinders, and the heat build-up would cause the moisture to "boil", so to speak, and the vapor pockets would cause the pedal to feel "spongy". Not to mention, rusting the insides of the cylinders, which would then cause leaks.
Exactly, it's always been a 30k maintainence item at every dealer I've worked at.


Caveat, excess heat will also cause new fluid to boil, the most common cause of a soft pedal under hard braking. Moisture, (water) compresses at a different rate than brake fluid causing the same condition.
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Old 07-20-2009, 08:48 AM   #23
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1978 28' Ambassador
Kenton , Ohio
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Thanks for all the suggestions. I just came off a week of towing in the U.P. of Michigan. I believe these brakes work as they should. The anti-lock works fine (had a chance to try it) and the dealer says they are up to snuff. They pretty much said that this is how they work. But I honestly don't think my wife could handle it if she had to stop the truck and trailer in an emergency, although adrenaline is a wonderful equalizer. I know this truck is big and heavy and it is a truck and not my little VW Golf, which will stop on a dime. I think I will check with an independent brake shop and see what they say. This truck is a great tow vehicle. Put 1500 miles on it the past week without a problem. I have even come to accept the gas mileage. It needs some attention to some rust that is just starting but I don't want to throw money at it if I can't get these issues resolved. I will keep checking out everyones suggestions...again, thanks.
Tom
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Old 08-02-2009, 04:05 PM   #24
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1978 28' Ambassador
Kenton , Ohio
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Besides the recommended Edelbrock shocks, does anyone have any opinions on other brands?
Thanks,
Tom
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Old 01-03-2010, 01:47 AM   #25
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1975 Argosy 24
West Linn , Oregon
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Bilstiens are good value for the money, and have a soft ride on the freeway. New shocks and have the leaf springs taken apart, polished, new teflon pads and grease, they will ride better than new. An expert could recommend taking a leaf out and re-arching the springs, but that gets iffy for towing unless you are really sure what you are doing. Call around and find the closest leaf spring rebuilder, or it might be cheaper to just buy a new pair, ready to go and with a lower spring rate from one of the traditional 4x4 suspension companies like Rancho or similar.

Sean & Sharon
1975 24' Argosy
West Linn, OR
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