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Old 10-30-2010, 08:12 PM   #41
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I learned about frozen propane tanks sitting an oil well south of Thermopolis WY one January, the next job was going to be in the Williston Basin up the Dakota's. Had an offer to go to work for a company in Kansas, you bet I chose Kansas over the Dakota's in the winter. You get tempted to heat the propane tank with a rose bud when you're cold enough, to get some gas to come out of a full tank. Propane freezes in the line and you can't get it to flow. Except the rose bud uses propane too.
The hot springs at Thermopolis was a fun thing in the winter though.
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Old 10-30-2010, 08:32 PM   #42
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You guys are not what I'd call encouraging! But I appreciate the reality check on this operation. And when I freeze, you can warmly say "I told you so!"

Based on others past experience, I bought a 6" piece of 1/2" galvanized pipe and attached the heat tape thermostat to it, with the dime sized black button "sensor" pressed against the pipe. The pipe/heat tape thermostat assembly is sitting out on the ground near the campground spigot. I will figure out a way to get it off the ground to keep it out of the snow. Now when it gets cold out the heat tape should switch on - I hope!

I ran the tail of the heat tape along the bottom of the black and gray tank drain pipes and valves, and wrapped those pipes with foam/foil insulating tape. I have not done anything to insulate the slinky though. My current plan is to leave both valves closed, and dump on warmer days... which seem to happen fairly often here in the winter.

It's only October and I already had problems with the water hose freezing... not a good sign. At least there are warm days in-between freezes to rework my system.
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Old 10-30-2010, 08:48 PM   #43
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I have never tried to full time during winter months; but do some dry camping during the winter months. (below freezing) The camper is winterized. I use a sun shower, and heat water and pour it into the sun shower via a funnel (for bathing). Keep the drains winterized when not using with RV anti freeze. Also find an electric blanket nice and warm for sleeping, and have an electric oil type radiator for heating. Use the furnace when I need more heat. Having a site out of the wind is a definite benefit.
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Old 10-30-2010, 09:06 PM   #44
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Dan, if the water line is in the snow, it may keep warmer as the snow—if deep enough—can insulate it. While the outside temp can easily get down to 10˚—or lower—in Denver, the snow will stay closer to 32˚ and keep the wind off.

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Old 10-30-2010, 09:51 PM   #45
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Dan, if the water line is in the snow, it may keep warmer as the snow—if deep enough—can insulate it. While the outside temp can easily get down to 10˚—or lower—in Denver, the snow will stay closer to 32˚ and keep the wind off.

Gene
Yes - I'll leave the heat-taped/insulated water hose on the ground. I just want to keep the plug and heat-tape thermostat/pipe assembly up a little.

Next step is to locate a bigger propane tank and whatever hose/adapter is needed to connect to the trailer. The tank plus 100# of gas may be too much for me to lug in the truck, but I hear some outfits will deliver for a small fee.

I may be wandering the shopping mall in the evenings just to stay warm

An annoying part of this is we own nice warm homes in Minnesota, and on Lake Superior in northern Wisconsin. I'm stuck 900 miles away earning the money to pay for them! This recession is getting old!
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Old 10-30-2010, 10:57 PM   #46
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Thumbs up Winter Full-Timing...How To????

Nov 2 should help you get rid of the recession that was over last June...Ha!!! Don't forget Dan to buy plenty of RV anti-freeze to pour in the P-traps in your unit. I wish you the best for the Winter in Colorado. I spent the winter in Colorado in 1997 in my TelStar and made it thru one of the worst blizzards they had in Colorado Springs. I, like you had to follow the job and the money, and my family was in our home in Lubbock,TX. I was glad that I was able to work and had a motorhome to live in in the Springs. It's the pits, but a man's got to do what a man's gotta do.
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Old 10-31-2010, 03:17 PM   #47
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You might want to consider a ready made heated water hose Pirit Heated Hose-The Only Cold Weather Heated Hose
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Old 10-31-2010, 05:31 PM   #48
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First winter, need advise, sugestions???

What type spray form is best??? What skirting is best???

Planning to spend the winter in my 34. Parked on a mountian in North East Alabama with a great view however I know it will get cold.

I'm just now starting to insulate the best I can.

Any advise appreciated.
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Old 11-03-2010, 09:52 PM   #49
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We had a colder night a couple days ago, and the heat tape worked... the wire was warm to the touch. I think that will take care of the water hose.

My electric bill for October was $65 while using the heat pump. Previous months were about $20. I know it will get much higher soon.

I'm thinking about putting clear bubble wrap in many of my windows instead of the aluminized stuff, so the trailer does not become a cave. Anyone tried this? I have the aluminum bubble wrap in the roof vents and my one north facing window, so far.

Frankfarmer... I know nothing about skirting other than what I see on some other rigs in this RV park. They look like vinyl attached to the camper with snaps. I don't know what they may have underneath (I try to avoid peeking under skirts!). What are you looking to use spray foam for? I would think that Alabama should not be too cold, even for an Airstream.

My best idea so far was to buy a $10 wireless remote thermometer from Walmart. I put the remote in suspect places to see how cold they get, then make changees to prevent freezing. I suspected the outside storage bin under my rear corner bed would get cold, since it has no heat and is actually well insulated from the heated interior of the trailer. Pipes run through there! The thermometer proved the theory... that area gets nearly to ambient temp overnight. An thermostatically controlled electric space heater fixed that.

My last suspicious spot is under and behind the shower. The faucet backs up to an outside wall. I have not found a good way to get heat back there. I have the aforementioned space heater pointing through the opening where the shower drain enters the under-bed compartment. I hope that keeps the shower area from freezing, but it may not be enough. I may need to put another heater in the shower itself. Other thoughts?

I may need to get a dehumidifier to prevent condensation. The air is generally dry here, so I will wait to see if I really need it.

The winter adventure continues...
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Old 11-04-2010, 09:21 AM   #50
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Heat tape works inside too.

Gary
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Old 11-04-2010, 08:13 PM   #51
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Heat tape works inside too.

Gary
Yes, except I can't get behind the shower to install heat tape in that area without major disassembly of the trailer.
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Old 11-04-2010, 09:27 PM   #52
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Yes, except I can't get behind the shower to install heat tape in that area without major disassembly of the trailer.
On to plan "B". :-)
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Old 11-05-2010, 04:02 AM   #53
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Thanks

Insulated rear of unit with rigid 1 inch thick insulation, cut out & placed all over floor area, foamed every crack, filled area full with flexible insulation, duck taped over both access doors, Rear seems much better.

still too cold.

Guess will try & foam more to any area that I can get to????

Under shower, mine creeks when you step on it, is there any way to get underneath shower floor???? to spray insulation????

Is that Pirit water hose worth the $????

Skirted the entire unit with 8 inch concrete blocks, 2 blocks just about the right height to fit on side of AS, cost here a big $1.25 each, seemed only way. Some cracks but not too many.

Thanks fellow AS owners for any advise, know in Alabama but on top of a mountain with no wind block at all, it's gonna be cold.

Frank Burgett
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Old 11-05-2010, 05:42 AM   #54
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I think you will have to find a cheap apartment or get a new tow vehicle.
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Old 11-06-2010, 01:35 PM   #55
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Dan, there are heat strips too. If you can get to the side of the back of the shower, you may be able to thread one behind it since strips should be semi-rigid.

Frank, insulation is far less effective if there are air passageways. While the cinderblocks will help, not only the space at the top will lower the insulation effect of the blocks, but the small spaces between them will let air get in. You have to seal the space as well as use an insulator.

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Old 11-06-2010, 06:39 PM   #56
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wintering in a airstream, you got b**s.
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Old 11-06-2010, 11:20 PM   #57
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Dan, there are heat strips too. If you can get to the side of the back of the shower, you may be able to thread one behind it since strips should be semi-rigid.
Very difficult to get behind the shower. If it becomes a problem I may have to place a space heater in the bathroom.
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Old 11-06-2010, 11:32 PM   #58
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wintering in a airstream, you got b**s.
No, I'm just stupid for:

- getting a Masters in IT, then watching the jobs go to India
- losing my job of 11 years
- finding an underemployment job 900 miles away from my home and family
- having just enough income to cover the family at home, with little left for my survival in a run down RV park
- trying to stay in the Airsteam through the winter!

I may freeze... but my family won't, and my daughter will stay in nursing school.
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Old 11-07-2010, 11:32 AM   #59
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Dan, you may feel stupid, but I think you are doing what you have to do and I hope it works for you. Don't second guess yourself about a master's degree. Millions have lost jobs through no fault of their own. I don't know what's worse—a run down RV park (I am thinking of one in Golden on Colfax) or freezing. Actually, I do, freezing is.

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Old 11-07-2010, 03:10 PM   #60
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I'm in a run down RV park in Wheat Ridge... and I will soon be freezing in my poorly insulated Airstream... two for the price of one!
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